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    • greg_r

      RWG NEEDS YOUR SUPPORT!   04/09/17

      RWG Needs Your Support - upgrade to a VIP/Supporter membership! If you find your time here to be useful and (we hope) entertaining, we encourage you to become a VIP/Supporter member. This only costs £21 (a little under $30 USD dependent on exchange rates) per annum and all proceeds go towards our hosting costs and making RWG the best watch board around. By becoming a supporter you will also gain a number of benefits including: 1. If you subscribe during one of our VIP upgrade competitions (announced above the shoutybox on the board index page and also found in our competitions subforum), then you could win a nice watch (usually a high-quality rep). We run these competitions approximately monthly, so keep your eyes open for the next one. You will also get access to our free birthday VIP giveaways - you could win a strap, watch tools or even a watch (there have been some amazing prizes including gen Longines, Raymond Weil, Hamilton and Victorinox watches, along with various high-end reps!) 2. Early access to the Member Sales area (see the sales area for rules) and the ability to bump your sale to the top of the board periodically. 3. Access to the supporters-only section of the board. 4. Increased PM storage 5. The ability to change your displayed user name (once in a 90-day period). 6. Occasional discounts from some of our dealers (keep an eye on their subforums for special offers). PLEASE PM Greg_r to upgrade to VIP


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  1. Hi everyone, thanks for the warm welcome! Althought I am definitely a noob, I have been a watch fanatic for twenty years, ever since my buddy embarrassed me into trading my old-beatup G Shock for a SS Sub.  From that day, I've been off to the races!!!



  2. TAG Monaco

    Beware that this seller is NOT a Trusted Dealer. If the watch you are looking for exists then our Trusted Dealers will be able to source it for you. Why take the risk with some other unknown dealer? Ahhh sorry, he is trusted at another forum, thats why I brought him up. On which forum is this dealer trusted?
  3. nuked

    Just FYI, but we use an anonymizer that removes all referral information when clicking on links on this board - for your protection and ours.
  4. A couple of caveats as pointed out by PrestigeWatchCo and KBH in the original version of this thread: PWC: Try it with a 4813 from Ofrie or Cousins and it won't fit and the crown stem will be off center and the cannon too short. This is the hard to get at the moment 4813 with tall cannon so unless you have one of these only a 2813 will fit KBH: Robert is correct on this. You do have to make sure you get the movement with the tall canon pin. These movements are currently available from Eurotimez, among others, for those that are looking. But, this tute is invaluable for the rookie trying to change his first movement. Even if you're replacing a defective A21j with a similar one, 95% of this still applies.
  5. 1 goes here The other here Here is the rotor, and its going to be greased! Remove the screw in the middle Off it comes! Here the grease, another member gave me this for sealing case back etc, im not sure what kind of grease it is but it works Use a pin to apply it Some on the end of the pin Try and pit it in the rotor bearings Here is a close up, not pretty but it works Then wipe clean, I just used a cotton bud Rotor back on Then the screw Now the rubber seal, this can be greased too Case back Tighten To tighten hold the watch face down in your hand and tighten Reattach the bracelet We are finished! A few different angle shots
  6. Here is the DG4813 stem, we need to remove the plastic crown Same as above use pliers Its off Here are the 2 stems, see the difference in length OK here is my method, it works for me so I think its good. This method is good as it always cuts the stem slightly longer as what you want, a too short stem and your up shot creek without a paddle! OK align the 2 stems like the pic Now just use your other hand to hold them, make sure the stems haven't moved or changed position Using pliers grip the longer stem at a point just slightly longer than the old stem. In this pic there is a gap between the pliers and the old stem, meaning that im going to cut the new stem slightly longer than needed Let go of the old stem and get another pair of pliers and hold the new stem BREAK! Now get the crown and screw it on Again hold the stem with the pliers and turn the crown with your fingers to screw it on tightly Ready to back in the movement In she goes! All the way until it clicks Crown screwed down tightly and its not in all the way, Problem? Stem too long. Solution? File the stem shorter! So remove the stem by pressing the stem release button, I have covered how to do this previously Hold it with the pliers and unscrew the crown Youll need a small file for this job! Hold the stem in 1 hand and file with the other, only do it bit by bit, you don't want the stem too short Ok after several attempts, it all back together and the crown is sitting nicely Nice and close, good! Ok now unscrew the crown and lets get ready to put the movement screws back in Here they are
  7. Now for the second hand, youll need this: not sure of the correct word but I also call it a hand press tool Use the end of the tool Using plastic tweezers, set the second hand in place: NOTE the movement still needs to be in the time setting position as its not running at this time Use the hand press tool and press EVEN FIRM pressure on the second hand, not too hard Easy Just checking now that the second hand doesn't touch the minute hand Looking good OK! We are now getting ready to put it all back in the case, so blow off any dust! Hmm, I kind of jumped a little fast there and didn't take a pic of how to install the movement in the case. Ok I hold the movement in one hand, using my fingers on the back of the movement, then hold the case in the other hand and simply put the movement in the case and then turn it over, hope you can understand, its pretty easy Movement holder Here you can see the notch for the stem, align it up with the stem before putting it in And set it in place, don't worry if it wont set in the correct place, sometimes these need a little force to set in the correct position Using a screwdriver to set the holder in the correct place Now its good Here is our next challenge, the stems of the 2 movement are different, very slightly, but unfortunately the original stem doesn't work in the new DG4813 movement. That's ok no big deal we just need to use the DG4813 stem! For this youll need some pliers! Hold the stem with pliers like this Using your other hand turn the crown to unscrew it from the stem. WARNING: DO THIS VERY GENTLY, IT SHOULD UNSCREW BUT IF IT DOESN'T UNSCREW AND YOU ARE USING FORCE TO TRY AND UNSCREW IT THEN YOULL BREAK THE STEM OFF IN THE CROWN AND THEN YOUR SHAFTED!. IF ITS DIFFICULT TO UNSCREW THEN I JUST GO TO MY GAS STOVE AND HEAT IT UP A BIT, THIS WILL LOOSEN OR MELT THE GLUE/EXPOXY USED TO KEEP IT PLACE AND IT SHOULD UNSCREW EASILY Done
  8. Ok the date has changed but its not 12am, that's ok, simply move the hour hand back to the 12am position using the plastic tweezers. Remember you didn't press too hard on the hour hand to set it in place so it should be easy to move and reposition. Ok repositioned to 12am, lets check again Bingo! Its changed exactly at 12am, now its time to fully press the hour hand in place Youll need the lint paper and a hand press Put the lint paper over the dial, completely Using an appropriate sized hand press set it over the hour hand hole and press with firm even pressure. WARNING: DON'T PRESS TO HARD AS YOULL PRESS THE HAND TOO CLOSE TO THE DIAL SURFACE. Just firm gentle pressure. Like this It's a bad pic but can you see the hour hand, its firmly pressed on and it has good clearance from the dial surface and also a lot of space for the minute hand as well Final check to see if it changes at12am and it does! Time for the minute hand, same procedure as the hour hand, set it in place Use the tweezers to GENTLY press it on Now change the time to see if the date changes at 12am, no it doesn't, it changes at 12.10am. IT only 10 minutes but I can do better so we will try again Again using the tweezers move the minute hand back to the 12am position. You may also need to press it on slightly with the tweezers as we haven't pressed it on hard yet Ok now its changing at 11.58pm, close but id rather it changed AFTER 12am not before so try again Move the minute hand to 12am and try again Still changing at 11.58pm, try again Argh, now 12.04am but its pretty close A few tries later, Bingo, changes at 12am! Time for some dinner, don't go away Ok back to the movement, now the minute hand is in the correct position and the date is changing properly, we need to make sure its pressed in place. So again using the lint paper and the hand press Place the lint paper on the dial and press using the hand press, this is exactly the same procedure as for the hour hand pressing Now the minute hand is pressed in place. NOTE: I haven't should it in the pics but you need to make sure that the minute hand is press on horizontally (when looking from the side of the movement). If its not pressed on horizontally then it may touch the hour hand or touch the second hand and stop the movement from working and damaging the hands!
  9. To put it back on correctly, it needs to be lined up correctly. The 'hole' that im pointing to should cover the balance jewel, so put it back on like that This is why I like using plastic tweezers for this part as metal tweezers may damage the datewheel! Ok datewheel back in place, now its time to tighten the screws, heres 1 Another, kind of covered by the datewheel overlay The third screw, it's a half covered by the datewheel so just tighten it in half turns so as not to damage the datewheel overlay Next the spring needs to go back in place. You may b asking 'Why didn't he put the spring back before the datewheel plate was put on?' Well, its done after so that parts don't fly everywhere! If you wait until the datewheel plate goes on then when putting this spring back, parts cannot 'fly' anywhere as they are held in place by he datewheel plate. It save a lot of time and hassle! The spring goes back here Set it in place like this Its difficult to shoe but use your tweezers to put it back in place. Next loosen the dial feet screws, only a couple of turns, heres 1 Heres the other Get the original dial, with the spacer Put the spacer on the back of the dial first Then while holding the dial, dial side down like the above pic, put the movement onto the dial, not the other way round. I find its much easier this way as the dial spacer ring tends to fall off easily. Close up of date, its ok Check that the date is functioning ok, pull the crown out to the 1st click and change the date. If its ok, great, if you have nay problems maybe something is out of place, maybe due to putting the datewheel back on. More wine Another mouthful Time for installing the hands, youll need, some lint paper and a hand press Ok and I forgot, some more plastic tweezers Before you do anything, you need to make sure the movement is ready for the hour hand.What I mean is that the movement time is set to midnight 12am. TO check this, pull the crown so its in the time setting position, now turn the crown to change the time forward, on this movement I think its anti clockwise or the Americans it counter clockwise. As soon a the date changes STOP, this is midnight and we are now ready to put the hour hand on.Simply set it on using the tweezers Once your happy that its at the 12 oclock position, use the end of the plastic tweezers to press it in place, DO THIS GENTLY AS IT MAY NEED TO BE MOVED Now check that its working but more importantly that the date changes over at exactly 12am! Keep changing the time, getting closer to 12am! Ok here we are its nearly 12am, the date will change soon, change the time slowly now
  10. Here is the problem screw, it half under the datewheel, I used my smallest screwdriver and just used half of the screw head and unscrewed in half turns until it was fully unscrewed It also wont come out fully due to the datewheel Another pic of it A close up of the screw to show you just how far under the overlay it is, quite difficult to unscrew but possible Datewheel comes off, youll notice that the metal plate also comes off as the datewheel overlay prevents removing this, its ok as it fits perfectly on the DG4813 so we can leave it like it is The underside of the datewheel and plate Whats this? This has happened every time I have done this, is a piece of the date change mechanism, not sure what this piece is called but itll have to be put back in place, no big deal A pic of the piece removed Here is the 'datechange spring' don't know what this is called either or the proper terminology but DON'T LOSE IT. Itll need to be removed - CAREFULLY Its now removed, sorry for the pic Here comes the new movement! Ok, movement getting ready Here are the 3 screws that need to be removed, on this movement you can see that they are easily removed as there is no datewheel overlay covering the screw heads. Remove all 3 screws Showing the screw to remove, same as the other movement All screws removed, datewheel off Again you can see this small part that seems to 'stick' on the back of the datewheel cover plate, this will need to be put back in place Again don't forget to remove this spring and DON'T LOSE IT! Again im not sure of the terminology for this part but its function is very important. This part needs, if its in the positin like the picture, needs to be moved slightly higher so the datewheel can be put back on. So from this position To this position Here is our part that needs to go back Simply set it in place, easy Ok here is the noob datewheel with was taken from the original noob watch movement
  11. Peel of a post it and fold it in half Like this Then cut it in half Now you have 2 post its! Place the post its at 3 oclock and 9 oclock position and under the hour hand Use the hand removal tool to remove the hands, its very difficult to photograph as I only have 2 hands, 1 for the camera and 1 for the tool, so this pic is really just to show you the position, don't remove the hands by just using 1 hand. Use 1 hand to remove and 1 hand to hold the movement in place Second hand off All hands now off Next youll need a screwdriver, choose which ever one will fit best You need to 'loosen' the dial feet screws, heres 1 And another, just a few turns, you don't need to remove them completely The dial is now easily removed, its coming off a little Now its off This is also the dial spacer that goes underneath the dial Heres the movement with the dial off To remove the datewheel, there are 3 screws to be removed, 1 is ok but 2 are tricky. Here is a tricky one. Another one, its ok and easy to remove Here is the third and most difficult screw, as you can see from the pic its half covered by the datewheel Unscrew the first screw all the way, it wont come right out as the overlay it slightly covering it, that's ok, just unscrew it fully and leave it in place. Tried to take it out but it wasn't coming out and I didn't want to damage the datewheel so I just left it there, I also removed the other screw that easy to remove.
  12. PART TWO: Remove the rubber seal with the tweezers At thie point, turn the watch over and unscrew the crown and pull out to the time setting position and set the time to 12 oclock, this will help in the hand removal Time for another mouthful! and another Next to remove the movement, youll need to unscrew the movement holder screws - 1 here and 1 here Unscrewed Screw removed Metal tab removed Other one removed too Next to release the stem, here is the stem release button A close up Press it - GENTLY While pressing gently, use the other hand to pull the stem out by the pulling on the crown, when the stem releases, stop pushing on the stem release button Stem out Turn the watch on its side Quickly and smoothly turn the watch dial side up n a sheet of paper or something clean Sometimes it doesnt 'drop' out, itll need a light 'tap' Part 2A few 'taps' on the crystal and its out! Lift the watch case away and set it t the side Here is the movement, dial and hands, youll need this from now on Lift the movement up and there is the movement holder under it, again place it to the side Some more wine Another sip!
  13. This tutorial was posted here some time ago, but unfortunately there was a problem with the images. Following a request by one of our members, here's a fixed version. The original thread can be found HERE. PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT MY WORK, AS WITH THE PREVIOUS THREAD IT IS A REPOST OF A TUTORIAL WRITTEN BY AJOESMITH. ************ This is a tutorial of how to install a DG4813 into a noob sub!This is just my method and i do what works for me. This may or may not be the correct way of doing this but im no expert.Id like to thank the forums as they have provided me with the knowledge to do this. So enjoy! What youll need for the job, notice the nice glass of Red! Of course the watch it self, a Noob Sub, the movement for the swap, a new DG4813 fastbeat movement. Some post it notes, tweezers etc Another pic of the tools Some lint paper? not sure if thats what its called and Rolex case back opening tools The Red wine The Watch - a Noob Factory Sub First step, get the bracelet off, so that we can get access to the case back Remove the plastic Open the buckle Open up the divers extension Here is the spring bar that needs to be pressed so as to release the divers extension. Pressed and released Watc and bracelet sitting flat, easier access to the case back The bergeon Rolex case back opening tools The red wine, time for a sip Nice The bergeon openers, going to use the biggest one on the far right Here it is put the case back opener onto the handle Put the watch face down in your hand Put the case back opener on top, put pressure on and turn Off the back comes
  14. In the beginning there were two watch forums. Okay, well it wasn't really the beginning it was sort of the beginning of the middle, but that's not important now. Anyway. Where was I? Oh.. Right. Uhm - yes, there were two watch forums. Replica watch forums, to be precise. They weren't the first rep watch boards on the internet, but they were pretty much all that was around at that particular time. The first of these to be established was called TRC (The Replica Collector). Then, in 2004, an upstart appeared called RWG (Replica Watches Guide). They competed with each other but gradually RWG outgrew TRC. Some people get confused at this point, so pay attention at the back! RWG was run by a guy called Blade, who was not involved in TRC or any of the other boards that came later. Got it? Good. Unfortunately, despite the success of RWG, things did not go well. Blade was interested in trying to make some money out of his board and a cunning plan was devised. Not involving Baldrick. An RWG watch would be produced and the collection of much up-front moolah began. Blade then promptly went missing and none but a few ever saw their watches or their money again. Blade's absence also caused a problem for the moderators of the board as without admin access, they could not ban members and they couldn't fix technical problems when they arose. They decided to approach a man known as 'T' who had been involved with both TRC and an earlier board called RWCC, and ask him to help them create a new rep watch forum Thus a new forum was born. Possibly struggling for inspiration, rather than find a new name they decided to call it RWG again - this time standing for 'Replica Watch Group' rather than Replica Watches Guide (I hope you're still paying attention - people get confused about this bit too!) TRC members and the majority of the remaining staff members of the original RWG joined the new forum and saw it was good. TRC meantime was turned into a searchable archive, which encouraged members to move to the new forum. T is a tidy-minded kinda guy. Right... Uhm. That's it. The end.... ... but, much as some people would like to tell you that it was, it wasn't actually.. err the end. Uhm. No, not even remotely. You see, whilst a significant proportion of the staff & membership jumped ship for the new board, a hard core of Replica Watches Guide members (that's the ORIGINAL RWG if you've been paying attention) - plus a couple of moderators - stayed put. RWG was home, and that's how they liked it. With no admin access, however, they couldn't turn it into a searchable archive and couldn't even take it offline. So, unlike TRC, it continued as if nothing had happened. Apart from some added anarchy... and boobies... oh, and the spammer lynch squads... and that odd smell... Despite the lack of an admin, hosting costs were paid and the board continued to remain home to a (now smaller) group of watch fanatics. This meant, of course, that there were TWO boards called RWG (no wonder people get confused!). The original, Replica Watches Guide, stayed at replica-watches-guide.com and the new one, Replica Watch Group, moved to a completely different address and became known to the rest of us as RWGJr or RWG2 (later rwgforum or RWG.cc). Replica Watches Guide (aka RWG1) meantime developed its own peculiar character; largely due to the peculiar characters that remained members, but also due to the lack of moderation. It continued to run side-by-side with its offshoot 'cousin' RWGJr and there was peace in the world... Sadly, however, in 2008 the magic smoke evaporated unexpectedly and the database ground to a halt. At this point, the lunatics left inhabiting the original RWG realised that they didn't have a home. The other rep forums were (and still are) great, but they didn't quite feel like their old alma mater. The problem was that those left homeless by the untimely technical problems suffered by Replica Watches Guide didn't have access to the old database. Additionally, they couldn't use the replica-watches-guide.com domain name as it was still owned by Blade. On the other hand, they could pick themselves and the look+feel of the place up and move it someplace else. So that is what we did - the new site was and is a direct re-location of whatever could be rescued from RWG1's dying embers. Whilst the OTHER RWG (RWGJr aka RWG2 aka CLKC) was an offshoot; a 'cousin' of both the original and of TRC, the re-located RWG (aka RWG1.1) was a direct descendant of the way its parent had been in the last year or two of its existence. Funny smell and farting noises included. The new members and staff felt that they were still RWG, just writing under a pseudonym, and carried on as if nothing had happened. In February 2010 Blade allowed his domain registration to lapse and the re-located RWG (for that board is THIS board folks) finally managed to acquire - against some pretty stiff opposition from an organisation that will remain nameless - our original name. We became replica-watches-guide.com again. Still can't get rid of that damned smell though... Edit: okay, so we're currently rwg.bz. We had to change our domain name due to a persistent attack that was being directed at replica-watches-guide.com. Such is life. Gawd knows where we'll end up, but we are still RWG and we shall remain RWG Anyhow - whatever you may hear from those paddling up that well known waterway De Nial (the wrong way, yet), the aforegoing is, in a nutshell, what happened and how we ended up in this mess. So. Who's brought the popcorn? End.
  15. 22mm Ocean Racer at Timeshops

    Cool - might be worth dropping Mark an email to see if he can get the strap on its own. He seems to be getting the new releases before anyone else lately.