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      RWG NEEDS YOUR SUPPORT!   04/09/17

      RWG Needs Your Support - upgrade to a VIP/Supporter membership! If you find your time here to be useful and (we hope) entertaining, we encourage you to become a VIP/Supporter member. This only costs £21 (a little under $30 USD dependent on exchange rates) per annum and all proceeds go towards our hosting costs and making RWG the best watch board around. By becoming a supporter you will also gain a number of benefits including: 1. If you subscribe during one of our VIP upgrade competitions (announced above the shoutybox on the board index page and also found in our competitions subforum), then you could win a nice watch (usually a high-quality rep). We run these competitions approximately monthly, so keep your eyes open for the next one. You will also get access to our free birthday VIP giveaways - you could win a strap, watch tools or even a watch (there have been some amazing prizes including gen Longines, Raymond Weil, Hamilton and Victorinox watches, along with various high-end reps!) 2. Early access to the Member Sales area (see the sales area for rules) and the ability to bump your sale to the top of the board periodically. 3. Access to the supporters-only section of the board. 4. Increased PM storage 5. The ability to change your displayed user name (once in a 90-day period). 6. Occasional discounts from some of our dealers (keep an eye on their subforums for special offers). PLEASE PM Greg_r to upgrade to VIP

NDJ

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  1. It never used to happen to me either but suddenly I seem to be surrounded by magnetic fields! My phone has a magnet in its flip open case so if I put my watch in my gym bag next to my phone - bang - it's magnetised. Also I find wearing some replica watches while using power tools seems to magnetise them too due to the powerful magnetic fields generated. I think the Chinese eta clones vary in quality and are often put together with whatever alloys are available. Clearly sometimes antimagnetic alloys aren't used for the mainsprings.
  2. Duplicate post - sorry
  3. Yes, that's why I put "AAA+" in quotes! The backstory is that I was approached by a street seller in HK who tried to sell me some crappy copy watches; I showed him my real GMTII and said "You got any good ones like this?" He replied "Oh you want a AAA+, follow me!" and took me on a 20 minute long detour through the back alleys of HK. As it happens, the watch he showed me was/is a good copy so I bought it. Later I found it had a real ETA 2836 (this was before they became so hard to get) so I often wore it to save my real GMT from wear and tear - especially when doing activities where the risk of damage was high (eg sport motorcycling). It actually kept as good, if not better time than my real GMT. It lasted about 6 years before the 24 hour hand failed completely - it can still be adjusted but it doesn't move from where it's set. Putting it on my wrist after 7 years of storage it still keeps as good time as ever so I thought it might be useful as either a project watch or making use of the genuine ETA movement to replace one of my clone movements. Some of my clone movements seem to be quite susceptible to getting magnetised - in particular my Helenarou's Seagull movement. Normally it keeps very good time but every now and again it suddenly speeds up gaining a lot of time over a few hours - and demagnetising with my cheap ebay demagnetiser brings it back to normal. As this (magnetising) doesn't happen with my real Rolex, Citizen and ETA movements, I thought maybe I should transplant the genuine 2836 into my Helenarou. Thanks for the info and advice. The ETA 2836 in this old GMTII copy has the seamless 24 hour hand adjustment - unlike the newer GMT reps which have a step adjustment. I don't know if that makes any difference with regard to what might be wrong - or whether it can be repaired.
  4. Otherwise, how hard would it be to transplant the ETA 2836 movement into my Helenarou 6538 - which currently has a Seagull 2836 clone? Would the GMT add-on module need to be removed - and if so is this difficult?
  5. Pic of the movement and caseback:
  6. I have a "AAA+" replica 16710 GMT Master II that I bought in Hong Kong in 2004. It is a very well made replica that has a genuine eta 2836 movement. The only problem is that some years ago the GMT hand started stopping, and then stopped altogether. A common problem with the replica manufacturer added GMT complications I believe. The movement still keeps excellent time (about +2 sec/day) even though I have never had it serviced in the 14 years I've had it (and I used to wear it a lot for the first 6 years or so). So what I am now wondering is, since a watchmaker has told me it's not worth trying to fix the add-on GMT complication, would it be possible to convert the watch into a 16610 Submariner with a new dial, new larger crown, and submariner bezel insert? The watch has a submariner-style unidirectional 120 click bezel as it happens. I also note that the watch seems to have a submariner caseback (marked 16600) and as a result is thicker than my real GMT II 16710. The rest of the case is identical to the real GMT - and presumably 16610 submariner.
  7. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    If it wasn't the most expensive rep I own by quite a margin I might consider it but I prefer to keep it new looking. It's more homage than a 1:1 copy of the 6538 anyway; a bit like the MkII kingston but probably more like a poor man's Tempus Machina.
  8. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    Update: HR sent me a replacement dial and I took it to my watchmaker. As it happens blemishes on the original dial were able to be cleaned off easily and I didn't need the new dial so I sent it back to HR. Once again, I have to say I am very pleased with HR's service. I also took advantage of the opportunity to order a Bond bezel which my watchmaker fitted. Despite initially preferring and ordering the red triangle bezel version, I now think the Bond version has the simpler and cleaner look. (Sorry for the quick and dirty phone pic.)
  9. Something out of left field: Compuchron LED from 1977-78
  10. Bulova Accutron from 1973. It has a super-smooth second hand sweep (360 tiny steps per second!).
  11. Full Daytona build is going to push $10K.... Yup. You read right. Last quote I got was $8K + and that was a while back. . The prices are $8500 for a Daytona with one model currently offered at the special price of $7950. GMT 5642 with Bakelite bezel and Rolex movement for $5500 Ditto for 1655 Explorer II 6538 Big Crown and 5512 Submariners are $4500 The cheaper options are eta powered models staring at $1350 for Tudor subs and $1650 for Rolex One of the more tempting models is the Tudor Monte Carlo at $2350
  12. Fake or replica

    Every time you see a movie, it's all fake. The actors playing soldiers, astronauts, doctors, or whatever - they're all fakes. Having said that, it doesn't usually detract from our enjoyment of watching the movie. Unless something is obviously fake. It's the same with watches - this is why we all try to get the best fakes possible.
  13. Does anyone know if this seller is trustworthy and if the watches they build are worth the premium they charge over the the much cheaper replicas offered by the trusted dealers? The prices are crazy! Their 6538 submariner and GMT would have to be nearly the real thing and with real gilt dials to warrant the prices they are asking! http://www.vintagewa...com/default.asp
  14. I would buy a Steinhart but for the fact that they are just too big at 42mm. What a shame.
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