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      RWG Needs Your Support - upgrade to a VIP/Supporter membership!   If you find your time here to be useful and (we hope) entertaining, we encourage you to become a VIP/Supporter member. This only costs £21 (just over $30 USD) per annum and all proceeds go towards our hosting costs and making RWG the best watch board around. By becoming a supporter you will also gain a number of benefits including:   1. Access to our free birthday VIP giveaways - you could win a strap, watch tools or even a watch (there have been some amazing prizes including gen Longines, Raymond Weil, Hamilton and Victorinox watches, along with various high-end reps!) 2. Early access to the Member Sales area (see the sales area for rules) and the ability to bump your sale to the top of the board periodically. 3. Access to the supporters-only section of the board. 4. Increased PM storage 5. The ability to change your displayed user name (once in a 90-day period). 6. Occasional discounts from some of our dealers (keep an eye on their subforums for special offers).     PLEASE PM Greg_r to upgrade to VIP


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  1. Bulova Accutron from 1973. It has a super-smooth second hand sweep (360 tiny steps per second!).
  2. Full Daytona build is going to push $10K.... Yup. You read right. Last quote I got was $8K + and that was a while back. . The prices are $8500 for a Daytona with one model currently offered at the special price of $7950. GMT 5642 with Bakelite bezel and Rolex movement for $5500 Ditto for 1655 Explorer II 6538 Big Crown and 5512 Submariners are $4500 The cheaper options are eta powered models staring at $1350 for Tudor subs and $1650 for Rolex One of the more tempting models is the Tudor Monte Carlo at $2350
  3. Fake or replica

    Every time you see a movie, it's all fake. The actors playing soldiers, astronauts, doctors, or whatever - they're all fakes. Having said that, it doesn't usually detract from our enjoyment of watching the movie. Unless something is obviously fake. It's the same with watches - this is why we all try to get the best fakes possible.
  4. Does anyone know if this seller is trustworthy and if the watches they build are worth the premium they charge over the the much cheaper replicas offered by the trusted dealers? The prices are crazy! Their 6538 submariner and GMT would have to be nearly the real thing and with real gilt dials to warrant the prices they are asking! http://www.vintagewa...com/default.asp
  5. I would buy a Steinhart but for the fact that they are just too big at 42mm. What a shame.
  6. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    I believe a rivet bracelet is correct for vintage 50-60s Rolexes. It was the only spare Rolex bracelet I had so it was this, or a strap! The cost of the Helenarou depends on what movement you choose and whether you go for sterile, Rolex branded (or custom) printing. The prices are on their website. When I emailed HR he also also offered a Seagull ETA clone (which I chose) for about a $120 less than the standard ETA. If you are referring to the bracelet cost, mine came as part of a cheap 6538 (Sillix?) for US$228 from Perfect Clones. HR offers a rivet bracelet for $129.95 or, if you buy with the watch, for $89.95. I'm very happy with the crown. The 'Brevet' engraving is very crisp and clear and I believe the standoff distance from the case is in keeping with the original . Noted! I'll be sure to drop you a line when I get the replacement. The $50 will go toward my watchmaker's fee to fit the dial.
  7. Hear, hear! Totally agree. The new fat models leave me cold. Classic and vintage Rolexes are the way to go!
  8. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    HR has got back to me and offered to send me another dial. If I can get that fitted without breaking the bank I'll be totally satisfied with the watch. It really is a beautiful piece. Here it is on the rivet bracelet that came with my Sillix version of the 6538:
  9. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    That's very reassuring to know. Like many WIS, I am a bit OCD and worry probably more than I should! I opted for the Seagull movement (an ETA clone) so that I know what I am getting. It appears to be running very well; since I got it yesterday it has only lost about 1.5 sec and a lot of that time I wasn't wearing it. Helenarou also offered an ETA in standard and Elabore versions and a Sellita - at extra cost. Here it is compared to a cheap (Sillix?) 6538 replica:
  10. Great review. I too have a 16710 and although an amazing watch it's pretty hard to spot the differences between it and a good replica. You have to look very closely to spot the hand stack! The only differences between a real Rolex and a good rep is that while EVERY replica has something wrong with it if you look closely enough, a Rolex is perfect from a quality control point of view. Also, if serviced recently a Rolex is guaranteed waterproof - whereas it's not unusual for replicas fog up if you're out in the rain or in the snow - let alone swimming or diving!
  11. My new Helenarou 6538 Big Crown Submariner

    I'm in Australia. My local watchmaker is a pretty good guy and knows his stuff but has proven very reluctant to my work on replicas. His attitude is that they are unpredictable and therefore hard to quote. For example he says sometimes hands are glued on and this makes routine work difficult to do.
  12. I just received my Helenarou 6538, which according to my research is considered to be the best 'out-of-the-box' 6538 replica. Actually it's more homage than replica as its design brief was to be a modern interpretation of the 6538, ie. slightly bigger and with domed sapphire crystal. Kind of a 'poor man's' MkII Kingston. Here it is as it came out the packaging: I am very happy with it except for two marks on the dial. 1. A white line under the '660ft' print: 2. A bit of dust in the 'O' of 'Rolex' These blemishes spoil what is otherwise a beautiful watch with a very nice gold 'faux gilt' dial. What do you fellow 'WIS' suggest for a solution? Ask Helenarou to for a replacement dial and get it fitted by a watchmaker? Or send it back to Helenarou to get fixed? (A stressful option because of the ever present possibility of it being lost in the mail or seized by Customs) Or, do I just live with the flaws? Ordinarily I would accept such flaws in a $200-$300 rep, but I don't feel it is an acceptable lack of Quality Control for a $600 watch. I have contacted Helenarou and am waiting for a response but any suggestions are very welcome.
  13. V7 116610 running faster and faster

    I just ordered one of these off amazon. How exactly do I use it? EDIT nevermind I read a tutorial seems pretty easy Put the watch close to the surface of the demagnetiser, press the red button and move the watch slowly from side to side (left to right) while slowly lifting it upwards at the same time. The magnetic field drops off exponentially with distance so you only have to take it about a foot away for it to be reduced to negligible. Repeat the process with the watch in different positions, ie. face up, face down, 12 down, 12 up, 3 down, 3 up.
  14. V7 116610 running faster and faster

    More than likely the movement has been magnetised. A watch can get magnetized many ways. For example some phone flip covers have magnets in them, and electric power tools produce powerful magnetic fields, as 2 examples. Chinese copy movements, due to often being made from inferior metals, are more prone to be magnetised than movements in genuine watches. A cheap demagnetiser off ebay will be the easiest way to find out if that's the problem, and will also more than likely solve the problem. In any event a demagnetiser is a useful tool for any watch enthusiast to own. By the way, I couldn't live with a watch gaining 22 seconds a day!