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Diver Dave

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About Diver Dave

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  1. is this a good fake rolex daytona

    There's no such thing as a good Rep Daytona. Frozen dials = "no buy" IMHO. The bottom line is that there's no suitable movement available.
  2. Under $3k what do you think

    Envisioned using it as a daily pilots watch (We use GMT for everything), and: At the end of the day.. Naah. Dial is way too busy. Still a GMT Master man at heart.
  3. Can i fix my Milgauss ?

    ^^ The end of a ball point pen ink tube makes a better hand-setting tool than tweezers, just as a suggestion. However for the seconds you don't need a tubular setting tool, so just a small diameter wooden stick will do the work with ease. And *absolutely* do this by pulling the back off, popping the stem out, and dropping the movement out of the case. From start to end it's a five minute job for anyone who studies the information available.
  4. That's a pretty "busy" dial even on a Gen. Truthfully, you would likely be better served with a more classic single color dial, which are easier to replicate well. Pop on a gen crystal and enjoy.
  5. Repair 7750 U.S. Based ???

    ^^ This. It can't be a completely proprietary tool. Dave
  6. How the HE valve works

    Thanks, and "exactly". There are probably 50 people worldwide who would use a helium valve and none of them are going to buy one they need to open up for ascent. My 1665 has been retired from everyday wear after 38 uninterrupted years of daily wear. My daughter asked me to stop subjecting it to the possibility of loss, to preserve it as a family heirloom. A $mil wouldn't buy it. Dave
  7. They are. That's the scary part. For the vintage Daytona they use vintage Valijoux 72's and make plates to convert them to 727's. The work is fine enough that perhaps Rolex SA can tell, but your AD isn't going to be able to. I mean, how many vintage Daytonas do you think your average AD has actually seen before? Remember that there was really nothing special about the older Daytona movements. The changes from the 72 to the 727 are darned little. You need a microscope, and more importantly need to know what to look for *exactly*.
  8. Holy Cow... Bought the IWC 3777 that nyckid (AKA Twatwaffle) put up, thinking it would be a nice chrono to add to the collection, and, well... I'm stunned. I own a BUNCH of watches, both Gen and Rep, and work on them, and build custom Seikos for military groups, etc, so I'm pretty savvy about this stuff. The 3777 is cosmetically flawless, but what absolutely blows me away is that this *particular* A7750 is keeping the best time in all positions of ANY watch I own, as measured by the timegrapher. And what's even more shocking is the uniform beat, and that it's keeping the same time with the chrono running as stopped. Take a look at the results. The ones with the second hand straight up are chrono stopped and with the seconds elsewhere is with chrono running. I'm still sitting open mouthed looking at the machine here. Unreal. Yes, it's running ZERO seconds per day in most positions.... the worst I have seen was -2 seconds per day as I flipped it and then it steadied at -1... Shit. Can I buy ten more?
  9. Full Daytona build is going to push $10K.... Yup. You read right. Last quote I got was $8K + and that was a while back. . :daffy: NO WAY!! Yup. These are WAY past being "Reps". They are more like a... well.... counterfeit. The difference is that a Rep can be "told" and these are only discernible as "not genuine" by true experts, AKA Rolex themselves. Your local AD isn't going to be able to tell. I'm betting that more than one person has bought one for "$xx,xxx.xx" thinking it's Gen.
  10. Full Daytona build is going to push $10K.... Yup. You read right. Last quote I got was $8K + and that was a while back. .
  11. ^^ To the OP: This is a well known high end maker of replicas, considered to be the best case and build for things like Daytona builds. Phong has been the go-to source for years for Rolex cases that are considered the best reps available. His Daytona builds are only detectable by the most sophisticated people. This is Phong's son, who's doing the 'assembled watch' part of the business. If you want the best other than a Gen, here it is. You get what you pay for.
  12. How the HE valve works

    Exactly. The valve in a sea dweller is just a poppet and spring, about as simple as it can get. But there no need for it in "wet" diving.
  13. It's the high end of the Vietnamese watchmaking industry in Hanoi.
  14. How the HE valve works

    The thing is that these watches were always designed for use for a diving method that includes exposure to helium in a dry hyperbaric environment, where the diver isn't responsible for any of his own timing of anything decompression or dive duration related. Dive durations are measured in days and weeks, and decompression is measured in days at minimum. "someone else" does that "topside", and that someone is called a LST (Life Support Technician). What I'm getting to is that the mission for these watches as a tool hasn't gone away. They were (and are) used "just as a watch" by people living, sleeping eating, playing cards, and yes, diving, for weeks on end in a small steel chamber that's pressurized. You spend a LOT more time in your bunk than you do on the end of a hose working, trust me on this. You look at your watch 1000 times a day to keep track of when chow is gonna be served. That's as true now as before. The diving for which decompression computers have mostly replaced watches NEVER needed a helium escape valve watch, as they are of no value when doing "wet" diving (IE: Not including exposure in a hyperbaric chamber). Some divers (like me) still wear one under our glove, but we rely on a computer for our real diving decompression calculations. Here's a picture of a modern mixed gas technical diver, (me), diving where things count. That's a photo of myself in Lake Superior, at a depth of nearly 300 feet and a temperature of about 35 degrees F. I'm wearing a closed circuit mixed gas rebreather, which is a computer controlled life support system that mixes a helium/nitrogen/oxygen mixture with pure oxygen to support life, while removing carbon dioxide using a chemical scrubber agent. This system is good for about 8 hours at infinite depth and releases no bubbles except whiie ascending. I'm wearing a drysuit inflated with Argon, which is a far better insulator than air, as well as dry gloves and electrically heated underwear. You can see both of my two wrist mounted computers that we use to calculate our decompression in real-time, and hidden under the cuff of my dry glove is my ever-present Sea Dweller "just in case". Everything is redundant, and there's no room for error. The bottom times are in the 30-45 minute range with decompression times of 2-3 hours as a norm. Direct ascent to the surface would be immediately fatal, so we don't make mistakes. The bell is from a wreck we discovered that sank in 1906, this was the first set of dives ever made to explore it. Photo from 2015. So yeah... some people still wear a tool. Sat divers today either wear a watch with an escape valve, or vent their watches on ascent by pulling the stem. SCUBA (self contained) divers NEVER needed an escape valve watch, and for them the valve is just another thing to leak water. Truthfully they would be better off with a computer and a Casio watch. In case you're wondering, I jump into the water for a dive like this wearing about $20K of diving equipment (without the Rolex...) > That light alone is worth $2K. .
  15. Repair 7750 U.S. Based ???

    Should be a piece of cake to fix, if you have the parts, and if not they are easy to order. Happy to take a look, bearing in mind that it's A: a favor and B: I'm not a trusted vendor so if I screw ya you're on yer own... ;-)
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