Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
_DC_

THE DC REVIEW: AP Royal Oak Jumbo 15202 New Release!!!

Recommended Posts

_DC_

When it comes to high-horology haut de gamme sports watches, there are really only two names that matter, two names that resonate above all others. Nautilus and Royal Oak. And in both cases the purest iteration of the breed is referred to as the "Jumbo".

 

Now we like to think we know these two names quite well, but I see the term Jumbo thrown around all too freely on the fora, so here follows a lesson in what is and isn't a Jumbo!!

 

The term refers to the original models, as designed by Gerald Genta in the 70's.

 

The Nautilus 3700

B7492E25-3FE8-4A05-BE7D-36B5F4C25A21_zpsuatlibt4.jpg

 

and the Royal Oak 5402

CD90C2EE-4356-441F-AEBC-9B148163D8F5_zpse33ceasw.jpg

 

For the sake of amusement, here's the two side by side together, perfectly illustrating their similarities and indeed their differences...

 

78345B36-D57D-44D5-BCD8-425147C9067D_zpscttla0h5.jpg

 

Both housed a JLC 920 based movement with a rail bearing rotor system that allowed the movement, and therefore the watch, to be ultra-slim. Both had only hour and minute hands (no running seconds on a Jumbo) and a date aperture at 3 o'clock. So a Royal Oak 15300 is not a Jumbo, a Royal Oak 15400 is certainly not a Jumbo, and believe it or not a Nautilus 5711 is not a Jumbo either.

 

Since the original 70's models there has been no updated Nautilus Jumbo in the Patek Range. However, the AP has received two updated references, which confusingly have the same reference, the 15202. The first facelift saw the AP logo moved to 12 o'clock, and shortened indexes with numerals outboard of them...

 

FC8DA63D-AC27-4E00-AFEE-788C4DF5A666_zpsbfsvv2ms.jpg

 

The second is the current Jumbo, and was released to mark the 40th anniversary of the Royal oak. It's release saw a welcome return to the aesthetic of the original, with the AP logo back above the 6 o'clock position, and long indexes with no numerals. Also, unlike the preceding 15202, it only comes in a blue dial as a nod to the original...

 

34E5A710-9DD2-43E9-AD97-2A40E0879788_zpsp8kbrlbh.jpg

 

0E05C3D8-349E-4A62-BE93-40787C92CABC_zpsswbgcxwz.jpg

 

The only noticeable difference from the original design is the date wheel which is now blue to match the dial, rather that white!

 

Each iteration has kept to the original size of 39mm, the original formula of no seconds hand and ultra slim case, and even the original JLC 920 based movement which is now only used by AP and appears in all it's ultra-slim models.

 

So that's the Jumbo. And the latest ref 15202 AP is the rep I've just received from Toro, so let's get into it!!!

 

DB8EAB5E-E476-46B8-AB37-84578CF5F51A_zpsv986sn1v.jpg

 

It's stunning, but first off let's address the elephant in the room. It's quartz! Yes, quartz! Ok, now that unpleasantness is out of the way, there's a very good reason that it's quartz. Part of what makes a Jumbo a Jumbo is that it's ultra-slim. As we know from all these decorated movements being released right now reps are by and large getting thicker and thicker. Even the old 15300 rep with undecorated Asian ETA was circa 10mm, and that's just too thick for a Jumbo. The undecorated Miyota Nautilus comes in at an impressive 9mm and that's about as thin as an automatic rep has ever managed, it's one of the reasons I love it. But the gen 15202 is 8.1mm. So the only sensible solution, especially since there's no ticking seconds hand to worry about, was to make it quartz. And the result is a case thickness of bang on 8mm, good work!!!!

 

A58278FE-D97A-4A6C-81FC-3785B27A87BB_zpsbkkncewd.jpg

 

I honestly expected it to be thicker, Toro quotes it as being 11mm which I knew was wrong, but I never expected that it would be a full 1mm thinner than the super thin Nautilus, but here it is...

 

49AEFF05-8669-44B7-9BC5-9DFF0C787FED_zpsk25o1b9v.jpg

 

The Nautilus appears slightly thinner because of the case construction, all the thickness is in the bezel not the mid-case, but the Royal Oak is delightfully slim on the wrist, more so than the Nautilus, it's an absolutely joy to wear...

 

FBB4D4ED-F884-48C5-9B7A-088681BCC126_zpslhna7ium.jpg

 

So the next "issue" is the price. Toro is the only person offering it but his pricing is usually on par if not a little under the likes of the Cartel boys, and at $268 it's a lot for a quartz rep. Should it be priced at more like $160?! Yes probably, but then again price is all about what someone is willing to pay and not an items true "value", and in that respect in order to aquire one of my favourite watches that has to my knowledge never been repped to any decent standard before I was more than willing to pay it. So, ergo, it's worth it. The other thing that I feel justifies the price is the finishing! It's priced similar to the old 21j 15300 reps of a few years back. Sure they had mechanical movements, but the clasps were crap, the brushed finish was weak, the bezel bolts were a joke and there was no polished rehaut. So given the choice of the two at the same price, I'd go quartz with quality finish every time!!!

 

EC7728AB-3EF8-4C67-A9B0-4FC71CF32C66_zpstr0d8tsx.jpg

 

Just look at this thing, it's stunning...

 

DA7A9A6C-42ED-46C0-A51C-91D21268EB34_zps7dicgtrz.jpg

 

CAE31EB5-1E58-4A49-B9F9-A4821E44C4BC_zpsqnu6u0a7.jpg

 

739540F0-7113-4F7B-9F29-95B571F5C69E_zpsarylltfg.jpg

 

A381324B-2ADA-4F2D-ACB9-F82886E3AFB1_zpsmtnnpokw.jpg

 

BB9CE6A1-5B7E-417B-812A-50FF794A07B7_zpskfcbguyr.jpg

 

The bracelet and clasp are lifted straight from the latest Royal Oak reps, so they're sturdy with a quality feel and secure closing clasp. No rattle, no unwanted release, just well finished with a reassuring click when you close the clasp!

 

The dial has the correct micro-tappiserie pattern, and a well placed AP logo. In terms of colour it's very hard to say, and it's worth noting it doesn't look the same colour in real life as it appears in pictures. It photographs as a kinda cobalt blue with almost a hint of purple, but it's actually a sort of off blue. I've not seen a gen in person but what is noticeable is that every pic of a gen I see the dial looks a different colour, so I guess it's a lot like the Nautilus in that respect, the dial is so dynamic it's hard to make a judgement, but it's a very nice colour with a soft sheen to it that catches the light but can appear matt from certain angles. It's very dynamic!!

 

Speaking of the Nautilus, one can't have a photoshoot of a Royal Oak Jumbo without throwing it's sibling rival into the mix. Since there's no Jumbo Nautilus rep a mere 5711 will have to do...

 

5C07746D-08A1-46F0-8144-B254B0A6781C_zpsxh5algl7.jpg

 

Notice how the Royal Oak appears the slimmer of the two in these shots thanks to that super thin bezel, it makes the Nautilus bezel look positively plump..

 

F15F1921-5EC3-4742-A42D-8D09048685B6_zpsdktzykio.jpg

 

B23B3D81-4FC9-4418-9614-45DBA0DC9BDF_zpsn4hvuehc.jpg

 

And on the wrist that makes the Royal Oak feel much thinner (despite only being 1mm thinner)...

 

67BBC833-6106-4A3B-AC9E-2E081285FBF4_zpssynbbgkt.jpg

 

I'll finish with a few more wristies of the 15202, and a warning to all those who love the Royal Oak Jumbo but feel they couldn't live with a quartz rep... trust me, you can, and it's so worth it!!!

 

5CF10F63-817F-45FD-9DCF-0725627E2087_zpsd72mlpen.jpg

 

FBB4D4ED-F884-48C5-9B7A-088681BCC126_zpslhna7ium.jpg

 

F2FC059C-A4C1-4954-91B5-7CB834F32495_zps4dwyoi6a.jpg

 

ADF0D123-7FA0-4207-BEB6-C3D622061D7B_zpsip7m556l.jpg

 

Thanks to Toro for his usual impeccable level of service and quality product, and thanks to all of you for making it to the end of this rather wordy review!!

 

Hope you found it interesting!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Robin195959

Very informative as usual DC but I'd really like to see one of these giants or Rolex break the mould instead of endless 'facelift' models. Not gonna Happen I know and if it did the TD's would be starting from scratch!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
machiavegli

I'm a huge GG fan, way to take this back to the roots. Beautiful watch too, great pics, great review

 

-Mach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
frosty1980

Great review DC. I've been on the fence for a while about adding an AP to my collection. This review is very much pushing me to acquire one, specifically this model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
plankton

Nice review DC. I have yet to try the RO Dressers. How's the movement running?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shamrock

Great review, just made my Bi-monthly watch purchase choice that bit harder! :lol: (talk of the quartz reminded me of a recent discovery that Patek made a quartz Calatrava ref 3944).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
baxter

Top review Dave and a VERY nice looking piece ... i will be getting one of these as the 39mm on bracelet was always a better wearing watch over the 41mm on bracelet.

 

How is the crystal btw ? looks a little cloudy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Nice review DC. I have yet to try the RO Dressers. How's the movement running?

 

Like a dream, it's quartz so you'd expect that really, but it's also totally silent which is a little disconcerting to begin with!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Top review Dave and a VERY nice looking piece ... i will be getting one of these as the 39mm on bracelet was always a better wearing watch over the 41mm on bracelet.

 

How is the crystal btw ? looks a little cloudy.

 

Amen to that, 41mm ruined the Royal Oak IMO, just glad they didn't upsize the Jumbo (that sounds weird). They've ruined the perpetual calendar moonphase now too, such a shame!! The chrono is the only Royal Oak that kinda works in 41mm, but even then I'd prefer the 39mm!!

 

The crystal is nice and clear, no AR of course!!

 

DC

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Barth

The dial is too shiny, the Automatic word is missing;

 

yet I quite like it !

 

Great review mate, thank you :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Great review, just made my Bi-monthly watch purchase choice that bit harder! :lol: (talk of the quartz reminded me of a recent discovery that Patek made a quartz Calatrava ref 3944).

 

All Swiss manufacturers had a quartz range, with the exception of Blancpain, that was why they thought was the future in the 80's so they invested in it, but thankfully not whole heartedly!!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
The dial is too shiny, the Automatic word is missing;

 

yet I quite like it !

 

Great review mate, thank you :)

 

'Tis far from perfect agreed, the date window is also too far to the left, but it is unmistakably a Royal Oak Jumbo, and it feels and wears great, so you forgive it!!!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Phantomtech

Great review as always! It looks better than I expected it to so that's a plus!

 

Is it just me or are the bezel screws quite bigger than the gen? That's the first thing that my eyes were drawn too..

 

Which factory makes this? Here's to hoping some new versions get released soon.

 

I can definitely sacrifice the Automatic movements for the case thinness..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Great review as always! It looks better than I expected it to so that's a plus!

 

Is it just me or are the bezel screws quite bigger than the gen? That's the first thing that my eyes were drawn too..

 

Which factory makes this? Here's to hoping some new versions get released soon.

 

I can definitely sacrifice the Automatic movements for the case thinness..

 

No idea when it comes to factories, I don't concern myself with all that nonsense as I reckon half of it is made up anyhow!! As for the bezel bolts, yes they're a little too big, like nearly all Royal Oak reps! Dunno why they always get that wrong!!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
baxter
Top review Dave and a VERY nice looking piece ... i will be getting one of these as the 39mm on bracelet was always a better wearing watch over the 41mm on bracelet.

 

How is the crystal btw ? looks a little cloudy.

 

Amen to that, 41mm ruined the Royal Oak IMO, just glad they didn't upsize the Jumbo (that sounds weird). They've ruined the perpetual calendar moonphase now too, such a shame!! The chrono is the only Royal Oak that kinda works in 41mm, but even then I'd prefer the 39mm!!

 

The crystal is nice and clear, no AR of course!!

 

DC

Having said that the 41mm does [ imo ] work much better on a strap where it seems to be the perfect size.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Top review Dave and a VERY nice looking piece ... i will be getting one of these as the 39mm on bracelet was always a better wearing watch over the 41mm on bracelet.

 

How is the crystal btw ? looks a little cloudy.

 

Amen to that, 41mm ruined the Royal Oak IMO, just glad they didn't upsize the Jumbo (that sounds weird). They've ruined the perpetual calendar moonphase now too, such a shame!! The chrono is the only Royal Oak that kinda works in 41mm, but even then I'd prefer the 39mm!!

 

The crystal is nice and clear, no AR of course!!

 

DC

Having said that the 41mm does [ imo ] work much better on a strap where it seems to be the perfect size.

 

Really? That's interesting to know, I've never had a 41mm on a strap!! I had a 39mm on strap but it wasn't very good and the strap protruded awkwardly from the sides of my wrist, I always just assumed this problem would be exacerbated by a larger case size?!?

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kleen™

Nice write-up, D....thrilled to see you nail that 'Jumbo' does NOT equal oversized....that raped phrase has been pissing me off for years...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Robin195959
Nice write-up, D....thrilled to see you nail that 'Jumbo' does NOT equal oversized....that raped phrase has been pissing me off for years...

 

Anybody know in what context the word is used in this case? Huge number of iterations of the same watch?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kleen™
Nice write-up, D....thrilled to see you nail that 'Jumbo' does NOT equal oversized....that raped phrase has been pissing me off for years...

 

Anybody know in what context the word is used in this case? Huge number of iterations of the same watch?

 

Nothing to do with that...when the originals were launched back in the seventies, they were considered big for their time, hence the moniker 'jumbo'...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kennycoder

Would you consider it super rep?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kleen™
Would you consider it super rep?

 

It can't be, can it? The dial is off in so many ways, which would exclude it from those hallowed halls of fame...but it does look bloody nice none-the-less...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
_DC_
Would you consider it super rep?

 

In the context in which you mean, no it's not! To me it's a super rep, but my interpretation doesn't involve being identical to the gen, I'm not even sure there is such a thing!

 

DC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jooost

Glad to see you got the 15202! Still think that the 15400 is a bit better in proportion with the bezel, but thats personal!

I do love the blue dial on AP's!

 

Wear it in good health.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gazzla

I would concur that with no secs to worry about a quartz movement is the way to go.

 

Nice review; wear in good health. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×