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NCRich

How to swap a 2813 Datewheel - A Tutorial

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NCRich

I've seen several posts asking about how to change (or just reinstall) a datewheel on a 2813 or 4813. This steals some material from an ancient post that the photos were messed up on. I edited the relevant photos and am just putting them here for easy access. This is the material that I used to first learn how to swap datewheels.

 

There are a lot of photos but when you are dealing with movements with no dials or hands attached you are only talking about removing and reinstalling 3 tiny screws (without losing any pieces). It really only takes a couple of minutes. The hardest part is when you are working with a Rolex datewheel with overlay, like this one. It makes accessing the screws more difficult. Its really easy when the overlay doesn't obscure the screws.

 

Make sure you:

 

a) don't lose the spring

b) don't lose the spring

c) reinstall the spring AFTER putting everything back together.

 

THIS IS NOT MY WORK, THIS IS MATERIAL CREATED BY AJOESMITH, I'M JUST PUTTING IT WHERE YOU CAN FIND IT.

 

CIMG3522.jpg

 

Peel of a post it and fold it in half

 

CIMG3523.jpg

 

Like thisCIMG3524.jpg

 

Then cut it in half

 

CIMG3525.jpg

 

Now you have 2 post its!

 

CIMG3526.jpg

 

Place the post its at 3 oclock and 9 oclock position and under the hour hand

 

CIMG3527.jpg

 

Use the hand removal tool to remove the hands, its very difficult to photograph as I only have 2 hands, 1 for the camera and 1 for the tool, so this pic is really just to show you the position, don't remove the hands by just using 1 hand. Use 1 hand to remove and 1 hand to hold the movement in place

 

CIMG3528.jpg

 

Second hand off

 

CIMG3529.jpg

 

All hands now off

 

CIMG3530.jpg

 

Next youll need a screwdriver, choose which ever one will fit best

 

CIMG3531.jpg

 

You need to 'loosen' the dial feet screws, heres 1

 

CIMG3532.jpg

 

And another, just a few turns, you don't need to remove them completely

 

CIMG3533.jpg

 

The dial is now easily removed, its coming off a little

 

CIMG3534.jpg

 

Now its off

 

CIMG3535.jpg

 

This is also the dial spacer that goes underneath the dial

 

CIMG3536.jpg

 

Heres the movement with the dial off

 

CIMG3537.jpg

 

To remove the datewheel, there are 3 screws to be removed, 1 is ok but 2 are tricky. Here is a tricky one.

 

CIMG3538.jpg

 

Another one, its ok and easy to remove

 

CIMG3539.jpg

 

Here is the third and most difficult screw, as you can see from the pic its half covered by the datewheel

 

CIMG3540.jpg

 

Unscrew the first screw all the way, it wont come right out as the overlay it slightly covering it, that's ok, just unscrew it fully and leave it in place.

 

CIMG3541.jpg

 

Tried to take it out but it wasn't coming out and I didn't want to damage the datewheel so I just left it there, I also removed the other screw that easy to remove.

 

CIMG3542.jpg

 

Here is the problem screw, it half under the datewheel, I used my smallest screwdriver and just used half of the screw head and unscrewed in half turns until it was fully unscrewed It also wont come out fully due to the datewheel

 

CIMG3545.jpg

 

Another pic of it

 

CIMG3546.jpg

 

A close up of the screw to show you just how far under the overlay it is, quite difficult to unscrew but possible

 

CIMG3547.jpg

 

Datewheel comes off, youll notice that the metal plate also comes off as the datewheel overlay prevents removing this, its ok as it fits perfectly on the DG4813 so we can leave it like it is

 

CIMG3548.jpg

 

The underside of the datewheel and plate

 

CIMG3549.jpg

 

Whats this? This has happened every time I have done this, is a piece of the date change mechanism, not sure what this piece is called but itll have to be put back in place, no big deal

 

CIMG3550.jpg

 

A pic of the piece removed

 

CIMG3551.jpg

 

Here is the 'datechange spring' don't know what this is called either or the proper terminology but DON'T LOSE IT. Itll need to be removed - CAREFULLY

 

CIMG3552.jpg

 

Its now removed, sorry for the pic

 

CIMG3554.jpg

 

Here comes the new movement!

 

CIMG3555.jpg

 

Ok, movement getting ready

 

CIMG3556.jpg

 

Here are the 3 screws that need to be removed, on this movement you can see that they are easily removed as there is no datewheel overlay covering the screw heads. Remove all 3 screws

 

CIMG3557.jpg

 

Showing the screw to remove, same as the other movement

 

CIMG3558.jpg

 

All screws removed, datewheel off

 

CIMG3559.jpg

 

Again you can see this small part that seems to 'stick' on the back of the datewheel cover plate, this will need to be put back in place

 

CIMG3560.jpg

 

Again don't forget to remove this spring and DON'T LOSE IT!

 

CIMG3561.jpg

 

Again im not sure of the terminology for this part but its function is very important. This part needs, if its in the positin like the picture, needs to be moved slightly higher so the datewheel can be put back on. So from this position

 

CIMG3562.jpg

 

To this position

 

CIMG3563.jpg

 

Here is our part that needs to go back

 

CIMG3564.jpg

 

Simply set it in place, easy

 

CIMG3565.jpg

 

Ok here is the noob datewheel with was taken from the original noob watch movement

 

CIMG3566.jpg

 

To put it back on correctly, it needs to be lined up correctly. The 'hole' that im pointing to should cover the balance jewel, so put it back on like that

 

CIMG3567.jpg

 

This is why I like using plastic tweezers for this part as metal tweezers may damage the datewheel!

 

CIMG3568.jpg

 

Ok datewheel back in place, now its time to tighten the screws, heres 1

 

CIMG3569.jpg

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NCRich

Another, kind of covered by the datewheel overlay

 

CIMG3570.jpg

 

The third screw, it's a half covered by the datewheel so just tighten it in half turns so as not to damage the datewheel overlay

 

CIMG3571.jpg

 

Next the spring needs to go back in place. You may b asking 'Why didn't he put the spring back before the datewheel plate was put on?' Well, its done after so that parts don't fly everywhere! If you wait until the datewheel plate goes on then when putting this spring back, parts cannot 'fly' anywhere as they are held in place by he datewheel plate. It save a lot of time and hassle!

 

CIMG3576.jpg

 

The spring goes back here

 

CIMG3577.jpg

 

Set it in place like this

 

CIMG3578.jpg

 

Its difficult to shoe but use your tweezers to put it back in place.

 

CIMG3579.jpg

 

That's it, don't loose any pieces!

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GenTLe

Well done NCRich!

And yes, that spring easily flyes away, so take care :)

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onzenuub

Great tutorial.

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Odyseus

I always fine the dial spacer a pain in the ass to refit :( Good job though :)

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RussP

Great tutorial.

 

The first one I've bothered to read.

 

Looks like you've been doing this since 2008?

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NCRich

Great tutorial.

 

The first one I've bothered to read.

 

Looks like you've been doing this since 2008?

 

Nah, read the first part better. :lol:

 

I just put this together from another really old post. This is how I learned. I was in elementary school in '08.

 

:lol:

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RussP

Ahhh,............A Joe SMITH.

 

Get it !!

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Dendo

Funny this is just what I need to do but it still looks like a bit of a fiddle......

 

......mmmmhhhhh need to think about this

 

Great post Rich!!

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NCRich

Hey, there is one more caveat. Not all 2813s are built the same. Some use a one piece date corrector. See this:

 

9YqYfZh.jpg?1

 

See the springs where the arrows are? You have to hold the date corrector in place while you put the spring ends in place. That provides the tension to make the quickset work. I just noticed today that they are built at least two ways.

 

Keeps it interesting, doesn't it!

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epalanb

Thanks NCRich!

 

I struggled with this A LOT. I had this movement apart and back together at least a dozen times before I finally got it. I would never have gotten it without help from NCRich. As he points out in the post right above this one the tip of that little click spring that is about at the end of his bottom big red arrow needs to be pushed over to the left and then and only then it will allow the date corrector to sit where it needs to sit and also provide tension to hold that piece in place.

 

Here is a pretty good pic of what it should look like with everything back in place right before putting the Date wheel cover plate back on. Only thing that hasn't been done yet is put that little click spring back in place @6 after the date wheel cover plate is back on.

 

A note on the click spring @6. This pushes against the date jumper (the little finger looking piece @6 and pushes it up against the little cogs on the inside of the date wheel. This date jumper MUST be rotated up (pointing to 8 oclock roughly) like it is in the pic below for this to work. If it is hanging more downward it will prevent the date wheel from sitting correctly. The clickspring @6 has one side longer than the other. The long side goes up and in first and then the short side is on the bottom

33484016120_174b1e37b1_b.jpg

Edited by epalanb

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Nikosaldente

Thanks for sharing NCRich!

 

Great tutorial!

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Nickfive

Well done Rich. Once again showing how much of an asset to the forum you are :)

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black263

On some pictures you show the datewheel separate from the metal backing plate. How do you achieve that?

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NCRich

On some pictures you show the datewheel separate from the metal backing plate. How do you achieve that?

 

It is two pieces. The plate rests on top of the datewheel and holds it in place.

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black263

On some pictures you show the datewheel separate from the metal backing plate. How do you achieve that?

 

It is two pieces. The plate rests on top of the datewheel and holds it in place.

AHA. I had assumed from the pictures that the metal plate was under the datewheel. So it fits into the cut-out and sits on top of the teeth.

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skinbobuk

Thanks ever so much for this guide. I just swapped out a 2813 movement using it!

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enkebabtack

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this guide!
Does anyone know if this movement would be suitable for swapping into a gen 16XXX datejust case?

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