V2 BCE bezel removal

[sconehead 5]

Well, I had a spare BCE V2 watch case lying around with the intent to mod it. I've already sourced a gen crown and recently found a gen dial and bezel for it.

For your reference, the gen crown requires a tap 10 stem and a new tube fitting, with a 3.5mm thread that allows for a 2mm crown tube.

 

Before purchasing the bezel I thought I'd make sure the rep one can be removed. Here's what I found out as there are varying reports on how/if it can be done.

 

1. The screws on the bezel are a pain to remove, some unscrew easily, some just spin in their holes and some are so tight that you mince the heads up. I won't bore you with the details but I managed to remove all eight screws in the end.

 

2. The bezel wouldn't budge.

 

3. Hmmm, could something else be holding it on? I then decided to remove the rider tabs, three came off no problem, the last one was solid but I removed it in the end, again mincing the head up.

 

4. The bezel still wouldn't budge, therefore it must be pressed on.

 

5. Usually if something is a 'press fit' the difference in diameter of each part is normally around a tenth of a thou. No problem there, just apply heat. A hairdryer was utilised until the watch was too hot to hold, a case knife either side of the bezel and try to pry it off. No chance, it wouldn't budge.

 

Conclusion.

 

It is myth that the bezel is constructed like that of the gen.

 

The eight bezel retaining screws DO NOT act as those on the gen, they go right through the bezel but something still holds it on.

 

The rider tab screws DON'T go right through and are like those of the gen, having nothing to do with retaining the bezel.

 

The screws are poorly made on the rep, if there's any resistance they will chew up and this was using quality Bergeon screwdrivers.

 

The only way I can see the bezel coming off without damage is to apply heat and use some type of three legged puller. Bergeon do a bezel removal tool but it's very expensive for a one off job.

I'll attempt to remove the rep bezel using other methods without damaging it but eventually I will destroy it if needs be and see what mods will be needed to fit the genuine bezel.

 

I'll update this post if I have any success.

[greg_r 81]

Interesting post...

 

Could you not adapt a standard 3-leg gear puller for the job? They're fairly inexpensive - all you'd need to do in theory is to fabricate some kind of bracket to clamp down the watch and for the central post to bear down on. I've seen some fairly small ones around - screwfix might be worth a look.

[sconehead 5]

I've got some pullers, it's making some kind of slim attatchment that's also strong where the problem lies. Apparently the bezels are hydraulically pressed at the factory. I've got a relative in aeronautical engineering who may be getting a call soon...

[jameo210369 0]

Keep us updated sconehead, remember we love pics.

[sconehead 5]

Well , as I mentioned I gave the BCE to a relative (an engineer) who told me after having it for over a week and having a good look at it that he didn’t want to try to remove it in case he damaged it...fair enough I suppose.

 

I decided to try something different after R2D4 had mentioned the bezel retaining wire being too long or thick.

 

Again, I heated the watch up with a hairdryer until it was too hot to hold.

 

I then inserted a small needle/pin through one of the faux bezel retaining screw thread holes, just wiggling it about and pushing the wire up slightly, whilst simultaneously prying the bezel up with the thinnest, strongest knife I had.

 

 

I then rotated the bezel to it’s next retaining thread and repeated the above.

 

 

 

After a couple of complete turns the bezel had become noticably looser so I decided to give it the heave ho and bingo, the bezel popped off.

Be aware though, it was still on mighty tight and it took some real force, I really thought it would bend.

 

 

Looking at the retaining wire, it isn’t too long and is only as thick as that in an SMP.

 

 

 

The bezel retaining screws are only for decoration, they don’t protude through the bezel like those on the gen.

 

 

 

Comparing a retaining and rider tab screw, piss poor quality and chew up real easy.

 

 

 

The click mechanism, similar design to gen SMP. It has a locating tab and is upturned in four places for the 'click'.

 

 

 

The lip on the watch head to retain the bezel seems large to me. It also seems slightly chamfered to ease assembly, which in turn hinders disassembly.

 

 

 

Looking closer,is that bad machining or damage caused by removing the bezel?

 

 

 

Looking back at doing this, it really is a dodgy task. Perhaps I got lucky, who knows. If I wanted to re-use the bezel I would need to source new retaining and rider tab screws, something you may need to consider before attempting it.

If you needed to replace the crystal , it look's like you could get away with just removing the rider tabs, remove the movement and then pop it out.

 

Now my next problem, will a gen bezel fit on, anyone got pics of the gens watch head and bezel construction?

 

Hope this clears up the many myths about the BCE's construction.

 

Bobby... :wink:

[greg_r 81]

Interesting post - not really surprised that the bezel isn't constructed like the gen, but good to see confirmation. Good luck with the next stage!

[auswatcher 0]

Awesome post sconey, great explanation, I wondered why everyone was saying you need to cut the bezel off.

 

Now I know. Thanks