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SH3135 service

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Cdenim
2 hours ago, 10:10 Watch Repair said:

Seriously?:lol:

but again, i like my reps to be true , in and out. Never liked all the extra work on inserts, bracelets, sel's knowing once the case back is off....theres that little, dinky 2836 in there. can't stand the anti-clockwise time change rotation, the date overlays, the weight, and most importantly, the correct case shape apposed to the eta always off cases to accommodate their  shortens stem heights. Its a topic still heatedly debated on both rwi, rwg, and whatever forum has someone post,.." ok buyin my first rep, a 116610 LN do i get the eta or the shitty sa 3135". Everytime i can i let them know anything from my experiances with them. Plus, a must for my grail build and many others, weather you're swapping in alot of gen parts or just popping in a gen 3135, ths SA/Sh make that possible unlike the eta watch that will only ever be an eta watch.

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GC
11 hours ago, Cdenim said:

And here gentalmen, is why upon recieving your beautiful new rep with any movement really but in particular the chs 3135's...

We start with a test fit of roulette wheel. Slight mod to the little round holders there on the indicator seating.

Got that squared away. Now we tear into it. Notice how much gunk is in there. Lubrication where its not needed leading to that dirt and dust getting stuck on places you don't want it. And missing lubrication where it is necessary wearing parts pre-maturly.

All ready..

Now cleaned in an ultrasonic/mechanical L&R machine with L&R cleaner, rince then i use a dez-bright from zenith for final rinse.

Notice how the parts dont look dull and dingy, but super bright and clean. These parts will now last indefinitely.

I cant stress this enough, niether the SH/yuki, or the SA 3135 are bad movements. In fact what you see there is pretty much the same (with some exceptions) as the rolex cal. 3135. Not made to the same standards albiet no where near the same quality control or engineering benchmarks rolex is known for. But serve the same purpose non the less. They just need to be serviced once you get them.. no telling how long, problem free they'll last after service, but have the first one i came across still puring like a kitten in a drawer from 2014. 6d77791b3b83b949065ac86000a0b1f8.jpg247e5619b73c0e4c12d051d0b5c56998.jpgf59f45bf91fa634330e24071ca7ec3e2.jpg1473db0a9856523b757a4d9693ef839b.jpg6b4e8c49b16eccdcbf98f1e83de54259.jpga67d4006f02a1159d31c6709774a0dcc.jpg2800ce707f03a642642938f4c5ecab9d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

If I ever buy a watch with one of these movements, I will PM you.  Amazing what they have done to replicate the look of the 31XX. 

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Stufuse
On 08/01/2018 at 04:46, Cdenim said:

i have never had anything go wrong with mine. nothing. more stable than some eta's i've had. couldn't tell you anything really bad with them 5 yrs ago, and after servicing 4 today, can't tell you anything wrong with them now.

Nice to know! Mines being serviced now.

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Cdenim
28 minutes ago, Stufuse said:

Nice to know! Mines being serviced now.

I just did a customers noob v7 with an sa 3135. running fast, low amplitude. not keeping reliable time. stripped it, cleaned oiled and adjusted the balance. and now .... 

Resized_20180110_205602.jpg

near perfect. They aren't made of the best parts. Quality control is non existent. but in the hands of a good watchmaker, properly torn a part, oiled and lubricated correctly they're just fine. Remember what they are trying to emulate. One of the worlds most renown watch movements ever made. Some of thats gotta rub off a tiny bit. 

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Stufuse

Nice, I’ve only really read negative things about the movement.  I gathered that you’re not really ever going to read a lot about peoples movements that are working fine.

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4000feet

This is good to know. Everyone I've talked to says stay away from them and get the 2836. I have a 1680 with this movement and it is telling lousy time. If I sent it to you could you take a look?

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Surftime
19 hours ago, Cdenim said:

I just did a customers noob v7 with an sa 3135. running fast, low amplitude. not keeping reliable time. stripped it, cleaned oiled and adjusted the balance. and now .... 

Resized_20180110_205602.jpg

near perfect. They aren't made of the best parts. Quality control is non existent. but in the hands of a good watchmaker, properly torn a part, oiled and lubricated correctly they're just fine. Remember what they are trying to emulate. One of the worlds most renown watch movements ever made. Some of thats gotta rub off a tiny bit. 

Like. 

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Cdenim
3 hours ago, 4000feet said:

This is good to know. Everyone I've talked to says stay away from them and get the 2836. I have a 1680 with this movement and it is telling lousy time. If I sent it to you could you take a look?

i certainly could. Again, alot of this falls under quality control. When i service a movement, the minute it is ready from the cleaning machine, the room goes sterile.  No heat or ac bc the furnace could blow unwanted dust around. always wear finger cots or gloves. clean fresh cloths. and thats just me in my workshop. Do you think that kind of stuffs happening in Guangzhou .. NO. This is why one movement operates absolutely flawless for years. and one is a dead stopper the minute you open the box. bc the guy assembling it was eating a sandwich and a crumb made it between the pallet and the balance. They did copy (and the sh isn't a bad one) one of the worlds most accurate, well engineered, reliable, stable, movements a watch would ever have. Albeit not the most ornate. My god the AP's are so pretty, i didn't want to disassemble my first one at school. Or to have been able to assist a master watch smith take to pieces a grand complication. It was so complex you have to stay completely focused on protocol. And put stuff in one spot.!!!!But thats what makes the rolex cal. 3135 my favorite movement...Its solid, ruged as hell, and so damn accurate. Its the ford f250, lifted with 36' mudders showing up to the ball next to SLR and Ferrari's. Ok getting way off topic. So i always stray more twords the copies of this movement. And I can 100% assure you they can be reliable and rugged.... maybe not to anywhere near the level the swiss have achieved but good enough for a replica watch anyway. I most certainly can help.

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Cdenim
19 hours ago, Stufuse said:

Nice, I’ve only really read negative things about the movement.  I gathered that you’re not really ever going to read a lot about peoples movements that are working fine.

bingo. Thats it my friend. You only here when things go wrong. And yes the 2836 and variants are solid. but function totally different, are way too damn small for these cases, and are danty. Just completely wrong asides from the Swiss heritage and speed of 28800 vph. I would now opt for the miyota 9015 whenever possible. Just as solid as any swiss including rolex. About same dimensions as a cal 3135. functions are same. IMO a much better alternative for reps. But i know of many SA, and SH/y3135's running perfectly for years. There are some master builders over on rwi as on here (just don't know any here yet) that i have alot of respect and admiration for, that will tell you the same thing and what movement do they always start a frankin with...be an sh im pretty sure of.

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Maxracingshox
On 6.1.2018 at 14:15, ssouthall6 said:

 


Thanks, thought so. That's a relief, spent the last month trying to get hold of a gen stem if it had been in vain I'd have been gutted!

Just to add to the topic I believe you can use gen reversing and driving wheels on the sa3135. You have to grind the jewel to make them fit but they will fit.@Maxracingshox or@Max Payne or whatever he is on here has got them to fit and improved the reliability accordingly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Indeed. It‘s hardly worth the effort since you can buy „yuki 3135‘s“ from trusted dealers, but it‘s doable and it works. :)

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freestone

Very interesting thread! I also like the SH / SA3135 very much. Got one in my BP Sea-Dweller 16600, my JF Explorer I 214270 and a serviced one in my JF OP 114300. I wear the OP 114300 as a daily beater and it is relieable and very accurate. It was serviced by a good watchsmith and as I read Cdenims explanantions it was a good idea to have it serviced.

But I also like the Miyota 9015 and 90S5 very much.

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FrankPowers
On 1/11/2018 at 23:25, Cdenim said:

bingo. Thats it my friend. You only here when things go wrong. And yes the 2836 and variants are solid. but function totally different, are way too damn small for these cases, and are danty. Just completely wrong asides from the Swiss heritage and speed of 28800 vph. I would now opt for the miyota 9015 whenever possible. Just as solid as any swiss including rolex. About same dimensions as a cal 3135. functions are same. IMO a much better alternative for reps. But i know of many SA, and SH/y3135's running perfectly for years. There are some master builders over on rwi as on here (just don't know any here yet) that i have alot of respect and admiration for, that will tell you the same thing and what movement do they always start a frankin with...be an sh im pretty sure of.

Hey Cdenim, I stumbled upon this tread while doing some research. I am new to this game but I have seen your articles on RWI. I just want to say we really appreciate all the work you do for us hobbyist.  I hope that you will continue your good work and intentions, as there is no need to pay attention to negativity.

I will most definitely be sending future watches to you.  

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Cdenim
34 minutes ago, FrankPowers said:

Hey Cdenim, I stumbled upon this tread while doing some research. I am new to this game but I have seen your articles on RWI. I just want to say we really appreciate all the work you do for us hobbyist.  I hope that you will continue your good work and intentions, as there is no need to pay attention to negativity.

I will most definitely be sending future watches to you.  

aww, man. thanks..... I do love this hobby/ obsession. LOL and its nice to hear all these seaming meaningless hours are appreciated. Thanks again brother, and i'll be here for you whenever you need.

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FrankPowers
2 hours ago, Cdenim said:

aww, man. thanks..... I do love this hobby/ obsession. LOL and its nice to hear all these seaming meaningless hours are appreciated. Thanks again brother, and i'll be here for you whenever you need.

You're welcome brother! I will for sure drop you a line. I love this hobby too, so I think we most definitely appreciate your technical watchmaking abilities. All the best to you in Miami, don't forget about us while you're on the beach ;)

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Cdenim
9 hours ago, FrankPowers said:

You're welcome brother! I will for sure drop you a line. I love this hobby too, so I think we most definitely appreciate your technical watchmaking abilities. All the best to you in Miami, don't forget about us while you're on the beach ;)

yeah i got no idea how they want us to practice all these complex Swedish steps on different watch movements with more tanned skin and boobs than anyone would know what to do with. I guess there putting us through real world testing...lol:boobies:Idk.... but in the meantime check these out, just completely changed over everything but the mainplate and balance and setting lever spring in my dssd's yuki movement to beautiful genuine rolexResized_20180120_222357.jpg

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FrankPowers
6 hours ago, Cdenim said:

yeah i got no idea how they want us to practice all these complex Swedish steps on different watch movements with more tanned skin and boobs than anyone would know what to do with. I guess there putting us through real world testing...lol:boobies:Idk.... but in the meantime check these out, just completely changed over everything but the mainplate and balance and setting lever spring in my dssd's yuki movement to beautiful genuine rolexResized_20180120_222357.jpg

Nice work, what a beauty! You're supposed to study hard during the day, and at night rest your watchmaking hands on a good handful. ;)

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Haltec
On 01/01/2018 at 23:17, Cdenim said:

Refering to the SH 3135 movement also called the Shanghai super clone or what has been found to be true is it is acrually the Yuki watch 3135 with engraved bridges opposed to the steril ones on the yuki. Not the SA 3135 which is a different movement all to itself.  

What's the difference?  

(Except that SA will not accept GEN winding plate)

How to tell the difference or distinct those two just based on open caseback QC photo?

 

 

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Cdenim

the sa has a brite shiny appearance. the screws are smaller and more rounded. a big one is the caliber stamp on the winding bridge. the "3135" is slightly angled on the sa movements. on the sh's its strait on and very gen like far as size and font. another big tell is on the big red reversing wheels...... best way to tell them apart. the sh is much more gen like. as it will accept for the most part gen parts. with alittle modding -important side note. so the reversing wheels on the sa have a slightly purple heugh to them. you can also see the painted part stop at the teeth of the gear and see the metal teeth sticking out. On the SH and genuine movement the red is...red. not purpley red, kind of red..its red. with the painted (sh as the gen is anodized) part going down all the way to the end of the wheel. teeth are same color red. The finish is also a big one .they have two totally different finishes, both completely different from the silky smooth, grayish silver of the gen. ITS A NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE IN THE COLOR OF THE GEN TO EITHER ONE OF THESE.....

Edited by Cdenim

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Cdenim
3 minutes ago, Cdenim said:

the sa has a brite shiny appearance. the screws are smaller and more rounded. a big one is the caliber stamp on the winding bridge. the "3135" is slightly angled on the sa movements. on the sh's its strait on and very gen like far as size and font. another big tell is on the big red reversing wheels...... best way to tell them apart. the sh is much more gen like. as it will accept for the most part gen parts. with alittle modding -important side note. so the reversing wheels on the sa have a slightly purple heugh to them. you can also see the painted part stop at the teeth of the gear and see the metal teeth sticking out. On the SH and genuine movement the red is...red. not purpley red, kind of red..its red. with the painted (sh as the gen is anodized) part going down all the way to the end of the wheel. teeth are same color red. The finish is also a big one .they have two totally different finishes, both completely different from the silky smooth, grayish silver of the gen. ITS A NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE IN THE COLOR OF THE GEN TO EITHER ONE OF THESE.....

also the sh's have a serial number stamped where the gen does and the sa's hav nothig

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Haltec

Kind thanks for the infos.

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