GenTLe 1,501 Posted December 31, 2017 Hi folks! So, some time ago I got a nice 15202 blue dial from the good @Foxindebox. As he wrote in the sale tread, he messed up with the original rep bracelet and replaced it with a new one, which, anyway, wasn't fitting well with the case. You can see the big gap between the last large link and the case, as well as the gap between the little endlinks and the case too: The problem was caused by the fact that: the endlinks were too long the holes in the case were too near to the border of the case, accentuating the issue I thought a bit about how possibly fix it, and the only was was by shortening the endlinks and re-position the holes in them. The big problem is that it is nearly impossible to make a proper 1.15mm hole so near to the old one without having the drill bit to bend and make a mess... So here it's how I've done: First I drilled a 2mm hole using the old 1.15 pre-existent holes as guides. In the picture you see a stock bracelet next to the one with the enlarged hole: Here after, with a small file, I made the gap a bit more deep, and also after I carefully shortened the endlinks: The next step has been to fill the gap with some extra strong epoxy 2 component metal based glue (a product similar to this one: http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE2-1133719dt.jpg ). In order for the glue not to spread around, I wrapped the endlinks with some insulating tape stripes: Obtaining this half-way result: And, after removing the glue excess, this one (yes, my nails are bad looking: it's the dust of that glue...): Next step was to glue (with a tiny bit of cyanoacrylate) the endlinks to the watch case, so that they were stable and well positioned. Because at that point I had to drill the new 1.15mm holes within the epoxy resin and I needed the watch head and the bracelet to be blocked in their proper position. The cyanoacrylate can be removed later with some ear cotton plug and acetone. Here after the new holes have been drilled and the bracelet removed from the case and the cyanoacrylate wiped away: Finally this is the result, and I've to say I'm happy with it This method can be used on practically all solid metal straps when the case has pass-through holes. Hope you enjoyed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nikosaldente 630 Posted December 31, 2017 It's always fun to see your DIY projects Alex! Well done mate! Thanks for sharing! Wishes for a Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glaude 1,615 Posted January 1, 2018 Again ! Awesome share and good trick. Filing job to keep the same profile on the endlinks as before is not so bad either Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moondustesp 136 Posted January 1, 2018 Nice job well done Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_DC_ 218 Posted January 1, 2018 Wow, this really is some ingenuity, puts my dial mods to shame Superb job buddy! DC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foxindebox 464 Posted January 1, 2018 That looks amazing mate, top job! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10:10 Watch Repair 1 Posted January 1, 2018 Very nice solution. Curious if it will last. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GenTLe 1,501 Posted January 1, 2018 1 hour ago, 10:10 Watch Repair said: Very nice solution. Curious if it will last. I think (hope) so because of 2 reasons: 1) this glue is very solid once dried, more than the nylon used by leather AP strap inserts, and very strong (more than 100kg/cm2 adhesive capacity) 2) the parts filled with glue are round, so the glue can't detach and come out of them Anyway we will see I'm using it right now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
