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semperfi55

Review - Breguet Classique 5177BR/12/9V6

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semperfi55

Another dress watch from me folks!

This time round, it has taken me some time to pick this watch. I have a significant formal dinner coming up in July, black-tie event. Since I rarely have any black-tie events, I am pretty excited and keen to follow the dress code. The perfect excuse to buy a new dress watch too! :bananarider:

As a general rule, dress watches tend to have leather straps (avoid bracelets) and minimal complications. In fact, some anal retentive purists aficionados go as far to say no second hand too. Then you have the ones who say no wristwatch, but pocket watch if you have to. I'm not that extreme, yet.

So far I have these dress watches...

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All perfectly good choices but I could not turn down an excuse to buy a new watch, so.....

 

The Watch

A rose gold Breguet Classique 5177BR/12/9V6. Pretty minimalist with just a date function and seconds hand.  The gen had a couple of dial options, one with a Clous de Paris motif and the other a cross-weave guilloché dial. I went for the cross-weave after comparing both in an AD. For me, the cross-weave dial stood out and was more distinct. The Clous de Paris motif is elegant on close-up but blends into a plain dial when looking at it from a slight distance, like when looking down to your wrist.

Gen RRP: £17,500

The cross-weave:

28459156738_c32041203d_b.jpg

 

The Clous de Paris:

42284546382_11b87c4bfe_b.jpg

 

The Rep

After researching on here and RWI, I had to get this watch. Turns out this is a newer version which had dimensions similar to gen. An older version by a fellow member on here had bling lining the side of the watch. I was glad the newer version ditched that. Initially, I went with Mr Timezone for the watch but twice they could not source it. In the end, Mary managed to source one no problem. :)

Although I usually avoid rose gold for reps, I decided for this one I had to go for the flashy rose gold. It just seems much more vibrant and classy.

42284033982_c7165aafc8_b.jpg

 

TD Specs (Mary Watches)

MOVEMENT: Japanese Miyota 9015 24J Automatic Movement, 28800bph with decorated rotor 
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm 
THICKNESS: 9mm (Same as original watch)
DIAL COLOR: White Guilloche Dial with Roman Numerals
CASE MATERIAL: 
18K Rose Gold Thick Plated (5 mils) on Solid Stainless Steel 316L 
BRACELET: 
Brown Leather strap with Signed Tang Buckle
FRONT GLASS: Sapphire Crystal 
CASE BACK: Display case back with detailed engraving

CLASP TYPE: Tang Buckle

 

Dimensions

The gen is 38mm in diameter and 8.8mm in thickness. My measurements (this time without air), was 38.6mm diameter and 9.0mm thickness. Pretty spot on! 

I still cannot get over how thin the watch is. I stacked three one-pound coins behind the watch. You can see them peeking over the watch.

42331614101_1e4ab869b0_b.jpg

 

Dial

The dial on this watch is well-done. Kudos to Breguet for such a simple yet detailed design. I can't say much really, the photos can do all the talking!

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Here's a close-up of 12 o'clock. With the main Breguet font and tinier Breguet signatures. You can also see the fine detail and finish of the cross-weave motif.

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And here's one of the 6 o'clock area. This watch has the "upside down Roman numerals" as EBB called it. :rolleyes:

42284098282_1b053336cf_b.jpg

Date wheel is well-aligned on my watch.  On the gen, the date wheel background should have the same colour/material as the metallic-looking ring bearing the Roman numerals. I've read on RWI people were disputing the date font being different from gen. But try asking anyone on the street if they know what is Breguet? These minor details will only be picked up bu a tiny fraction of watch enthusiasts, and will need a side by side comparison. Also, just want to point out the finishing next to the Roman numerals and hour markers. There's so much going on!

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And of course, Breguet would use, shock horror, Breguet hands for their watches!

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Because I love it so much, here's another photo of the cross weave dial.  That's a lot of Jenga in there.

42331361801_c1b9e6b02f_b.jpg

 

Movement

The watch uses a Miyota 9015 and of course has the classic noisy rotor which you will miss out on if you buy gen. I believe there is also a fake plate underneath the rotor, the true movement is hiding underneath that.  Note the wave motif around the caseback and the finishing on the rotor. The factory has made some effort to decorate the movement.

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Functions

Just the one: date function. Now I'll know the which day of the month it is. 

 

Case

Of course, with a rose gold case there is the problem with it being scratched off but that is a headache for future me. Present me is just happy with the shiny rose gold.

The jury is still out on what case this is. No screws. No lip for a caseback knife. No "open sesame" with a friction ball. This could well be a front/toploader. Worth taking note if you like to tinker with your watches.

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The case side has similar detailing as per gen. Simple vertical etching, but elegant.

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On the crown, there is a cursive B, I think. I'm don't read so good (well).

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Strap & Buckle

The leather strap is an interesting one. It photographs well, as in the photo below. But in real life, it screams cheap. It is not as stiff as some of the bad plastic straps you get on reps. It's actually quite soft and supple. So I'm confused. It looks good on camera, looks cheap in real life, but feels good. Make what you will with that conflicting information. The buckle is a simple tang buckle with no brand engravings.

28458810438_d8cb61916e_b.jpg

Breguet on the back of the strap. In case you forgot what the brand name when you flip the watch. Very thoughtful!

40524779420_a61b1fd681_b.jpg

The strap pins use a system I have not encountered before, took me a while to figure it out. Instead of a spring bar tool, you'll need a screwdriver. First, loosen this screw underneath the lug...

42331605671_56ab38ed50_b.jpg

....and proceed with loosening the screw on the side of the lug. The screw is part of the pin.

42331613411_f3fd033a72_b.jpg

 

Accuracy

I cannot be arsed to download timegrapher apps for now. Wifi was shit today. Napoleon lost at Waterloo because he had a Vacheron Constantin mechanical watch. The Prussians and British had quartz. True story.

If Napoleon wanted the world to speak French, he should've worn quartz.

 

Overall

Did I get a mighty fine dress watch?  Yes!

Will this watch do the job for my black-tie event? Yes!

Has that sated my appetite for watches? No!

This Breguet has dimensions and gross detail close to gen. Some compromises have to be made with the date font but that is permissible. An aftermarket leather strap would turn an already classy watch even more posh. It is also slim enough that I would not worry about issues with my cuff.  I will need more black-tie events for this beauty!

27450935047_1393628318_b.jpg

 

Honourable Mentions

On the journey for this dress watch, I had a few other options in mind. I figured it would be nice to include them for others to consider too.

1) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5117 or 5227

patek.jpg

patek-philippe-calatrava-5227-watch-revi

I'm sure many of you would be shouting for a Calatrava as THE dress watch. I agree. However, at this point in my life, a Patek looks a bit inappropriate. In fact,  one might argue that a Breguet is equally inappropriate. But most people would know Patek as a high-end brand and Breguet as a whaa? 

 

2)  A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin

As a huge ALS fan, I was also considering this. I would prefer a Richard Lange but I don't think they make good reps for that. The only Saxonia thin rep I have encountered has a second hand, which I would remove to look like gen. As I already have a Saxonia Moonphase, I decided to buy the Breguet to balance out my collection.

lange-saxonia-09.jpg

 

3) Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Bi-Retrograde Day & Date or Date & Moonphase

Yes there are reps of these beauties. I really wanted them but could not find any stock. I recently tried both gens in an AD and let me tell you, this is something else! There's something about the rose gold case and cream dial combination. Unfortunately the reps are pretty thick for these models. Also, at GBP 39,000 a pop that will be the biggest tell of all...

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Vacheron-_Constantin-_Patrimony-moon-pha

The Bi-retrograde Moonphase is even more elusive. One day...

 

  • Like 2

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Glaude

Résultat de recherche d'images pour "bravo gif"

Excellent review my friend, as usual !

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McGilli
1 hour ago, semperfi55 said:

I will need more black-tie events for this beauty!

That ^^^^^^^

That is the feeling that tells me I have a watch I love. A watch that makes me want to go to events, or create events - that compliment it. Instead of it just complimenting the event. My Blood Dial Rolex does this, as well as my Seiko and my Franck Mueller. All my other watches might make me want to dress nicer, which I've mentioned a while ago - but some of the watches beg for certain events. It's a great feeling.

Enjoyed the review thoroughly. DOn't need 45 minutes to read it which is awesome!!! Ha.

My only suggestion, and this is because I enjoy your watches and your reviews - could you hyperlink the reviews to the watches in your signature? That way it's just easier to find them again and look back on them.... 

Looking forward to the next one. I even detected the slightest bit of humour, in a non-chalant 'who gives a F' way in there... Nice....

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Luxuracer
1 hour ago, semperfi55 said:

Another dress watch from me folks!

Between you, @Glaude, and @McGilli ... you three made me stop wanting to do my reviews ... even though I never started.

What can I say?!? Lovely watch ... and the review even lovelier.

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RollyCR

These watches make me want to dress up, too. Lovely.

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semperfi55

Cheers @Glaude , good to get Christoph's approval too! :giggle:

@McGilli Thanks mate, glad someone feels the same way too! It is a vicious cycle, you spend some money to attend an event, which prompts you to spend more money for a watch for said event, which you need to justify by spending even more money for other events :D

I'm curious, what events do you attend wearing the blood dial? ?:death::pirate:

Changing my sig took longer than expected, I might put in a link to R factory just to mess around...

@Luxuracer I'm sure  @Glaude , @McGilli and I could do you a deal. Help you out with reviews. For a modest fee of course... Get your people to contact my people.

@RollyCR Thanks! Join the club Rolly :pirateship:

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VMSG

Great review man!

Well written, full of pics and no need to take a half day from work to read it :)

Breguet is the hidden gem of reps. I love dress watches and love Breguet.

giphy.gif

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semperfi55

Thanks @VMSG I'm definitely collecting more Breguets here on out! :)

 

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McGilli

@semperfi55 Hey nice work on your signature...

Can't wait to see it all come to life ;)

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mattcraiganon

Sorry to bump this but it's gorgeous! Do you know if there are any of the 'Clous de Paris' versions about? :)

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Glaude
39 minutes ago, mattcraiganon said:

Sorry to bump this but it's gorgeous! Do you know if there are any of the 'Clous de Paris' versions about? :)

Yep there is, send this link to any of our TD

https://puretime.io/classique-auto-5177-rg-fk-1-1-best-edition-white-hobnail-textured-dial-on-brown-leather-strap-miyota-9015.html#

:) 

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mattcraiganon

Cheers Glaude. Gone for the SOH2 this time around but this will be next on the list :)

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Yard

Thank you for a great review. Could I ask What factory this is as you mention it was a newer version?

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Fabbroni

I am considering buying one of these. Can you indicate the lug size so that I can add to my budget a genuine alligator strap? Would a third party strap work considering the particular way of fastening the strap to the lugs?

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Ark1985

Nice post and great quality photos! I am looking for such rep as well, can i ask you? After all these while would you still pick the crosss weave? or the Clous de Paris?  I am in a dilemma!

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Horace Derwent

@semperfi55 i finally came across this amazing and detailed 5177 review !

Fantastic photos, reviews like this should be preserved !

:thumbsup2:

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Michel78

the dial design look great, first time i see one like that

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