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J!m

1976 Tudor 9411/0 blue dial restoration

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J!m

Hello everyone.

Some of you know, I do a bit of modding, but my passion is restoration of vintage Rolex products (Rolex and Tudor) to original condition, with period correct parts, to the best of my ability (and budget!).

Previous projects include a ~1973 Rolex 1680. With a 3.9M serial, it may have started life as a red letter sub. I had the case restored by Mike Young, and he also restored the (very rare) early 93150 no date code bracelet to new condition. It carries a brand new bezel ring, correct insert NOS early 127 (true top-hat) crystal and NOS 702 crown and crown tube. Inside, a correct silver date wheel and Mk I white dial complete the build for an era correct and nearly mint example I am quite proud of. (Wearing it now in fact)

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But back to the topic at hand...

I have amassed some parts for my 9411 blue dial over the past several years (these projects take A LOT of patience). Those include the early blue dial (not a later service replacement), Correct Tudor marked ETA movement (there is more to these than just the rotor logo!)  NOS 702 crown and tube, NOS (early, true top hat) 125 crystal, insert, NOS Tritium pearl and hour and seconds hands. I am forced to use an aftermarket minute hand, but after purchasing several aftermarket sets, I found one which matches the shape of my all-original 1978 9411 black dial. Oh, and a genuine caseback gasket. My last one :(

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That's nice for you, you say. Let's get on with it!

Allrighty then!

I recently found and purchased an original 1976 9411 case and caseback. This had the typical crevice corrosion (side note: this is why Rolex changed to 904 stainless) and the seller I purchased it from had taken a skim cut on the top and bottom of the midcase to clean this up. I would have preferred it was un-touched, so I could have Michael Young weld and then skim it, to eliminate all the corrosion pits while retaining exact original dimensions, but it seems the cut was quite shallow (maybe 0.002") so I'm OK with it. What I was NOT ok with, is the fact that they neglected to polish the top of the crownguards afterwards. They still had the machined appearance (like brushed) and that is not correct. So, the case had to have the (incorrect, but genuine) 703 tube removed, and be polished. For this operation, I first sand to 1200 or 2000 and then bring to the wheel. I always install a (junk) crystal to preserve the rehaut. This must be done carefully, to not distort the shape of the crownguards. I'm not trying to "vintage-ize" it, but rather restore the finish correctly. This requires skill and experience to do well. I think I managed to pull it off.

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I also acquired an original (used) crystal retainer. That is the ring under the bezel, that the bezel snaps onto. I have probably 20 aftermarket ones, and the tolerances are just too generous (I think the angles may be off on some too). As most modders know, it is not unusual to have an extremely tight, or extremely loose bezel with aftermarket ones, even when purchased as a "set" together. (I thought I had a picture of it, but honestly, it's not terribly exciting anyway)

Installing the tube is easy, when you have the right tools...

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Of course, rep or gen, the case threads are ALWAYS chased with the correct tap before installing the tube with the correct Lock-tite product, (and, of course the correct square-section o-ring) for durability and water resistance. Below is the tube installed on the polished case:

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I know, the case doesn't look much different in the picture, but you'll just have to trust me, that it's now looking like my second photo, above.

TO BE CONTINUED...

And here we go again!

Dug all my parts out again...

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and got back to it.

Case back off, stem pulled, movement out. Pull seconds hand (only) to replace with a better shaped one. Although not perfect, it is an excellent "close enough" example. Color match via Dunkin Donuts coffee... Install seconds hand and get ready to case it up:

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Now we case up the movement. This dial is EXTREMELY fragile... (there is a reason you see so few of them in the wild), so it has to be done as carefully as you might set chrono subdial hands. As it is, this has some small chips which are hidden by the rehaut. Once in the case, spinning of the movement must be kept to an absolute minimum to avoid chipping. Oh, the rehaut counterbore (where the dial sits) has been cleaned with rodico several times to ensure there is no contamination there that might not let the dial sit perfectly...

I optically align the movement stem hole with the crown tube, drop the movement ring in place and start the case clamps loosely- starting with the one opposite the crown. Once both are started, I align the movement ring with the movement and crown tube bore again before locking it down. (NOTE: I have a "junk" crystal on the case to avoid fouling the hands or dial during this step).

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This is what a gen Tudor 2784 looks like... otherwise, not very exciting...

Now I spin the (either JAW or Athya) crown off the stem, and spin on the NOS 702 crown. As great as NOS parts are, being 40+ years old means the o-ring is now petrified... We want it water-tight, so the flat profile gasket from the old crown is transferred over, since I didn't have an appropriate size O-ring handy to replace this (schoolboy error...)

The 702 crown tube is a "triplock" design. There are two O-rings inside the tube (always a joy to install...) and the one inside the crown, that seals on the end face of the tube. All are lubricated with Dow Corning 111 (the best o-ring lubricant as dictated by Parker). It's also "sticky" enough to hold tiny O-rings while you try to manipulate them. The first inner o-ring goes in easy, but the second one always ends up a mess, requiring a couple tries to get right. Take the time and get this right, if you have any hope of the crown sealing!

Ahhhh... That looks nice!

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Of course, no build is complete without a correct, early crystal. Nice sharp top corners and excellent clarity!

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Now in case you didn't know this, NEVER touch the inside of the crystal. EVER! You will scratch it. I only use my blower on it to remove any dust. If it doesn't come off with that, it stays. Lecture over.

Clean, clean, clean and clean again. You want the top of the rehaut (inside already done before movement went in) and the outside spotlessly clean. The gen cases have a slight undercut to grip the crystal, so make sure it's pristine under there too. Any dirt or debris will prevent the air-tight seal we need.

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Finally, we can set the crystal. I deliberately do this "last" so that I can align the Cyclops perfectly with the date window. I use my loupe and make sure the Cyclops top and bottom edge are parallel with the date window. Some set the crystal earlier, aligning with the crown tube hole, which is fine. I prefer it this way, as the crystal is out of harm's way (including finger prints!) until the very end.

Then the crystal retainer ring goes on. Press (very) firmly with the special die I made (works great!) as the plastic ones are not strong enough and not deep enough to keep the crystal out of harm's way. (learned this the hard way...)

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And there we are!

I need a bezel ring, so I might take it to an AD as-is and ask them to order the ring, insert and washer for me. They may insist on installing it, but I'll try to just get the parts and do it myself. If I like the new blue insert I may keep it, or sell it off and go with the vintage one I have already.

Thanks for looking!

 

 

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bobandshawn

I am REALLY second-guessing myself before posting this.  I must be missing something.  But that looks like no tube I have ever seen before???

 

B

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J!m

Well, that is what a genuine Rolex 702 tube looks like.

I see, for some reason, there are two copies of this thread. Mods, please consolidate and delete the extra one!

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bobandshawn

No doubt - please don't take it that way. Just my skewed vision...

B

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Luxuracer

Great work ....!

... but why ... why ... a Tudor ?!?!

J/K ... I love your informative posts.

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J!m

Always loved the 9411... Now I have two! A black and a blue.

That allows me to shift focus to my other projects- the 5512 (see other thread) and next up, the Seamaster 300. I'm in need of a crown tube for that, but otherwise, I'm ready to go.

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J!m

I updated the first post with the rest of the story...

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NCRich

Nice.....damn I always touch the inside of the plexi.  And pay the price.  It is a sickness.

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J!m

Well, I guess if it's a used crystal, you could try reagent grade isopropyl alcohol and lens paper, but these scratch really easily.

When I was a photographer, I cleaned my lenses MAYBE once a year. A tiny spec of dust is not visible in the final image. A bit of dust inside is not going to harm anything either, but we do our best to get it all out before we seal it up!.

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