Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
LightGeek

Fast date wheel overlay swap

Recommended Posts

LightGeek
Where do you get those beefy spring bars from mate?

 

eBay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

So here is the result. Pics are in order of...

 

Factory

TC

 

Please note this is before I de-cased it again and adjusted the left justify and slightly too low.

 

 

hesahe2e.jpg

ereruzyq.jpg

 

 

y3utezyt.jpg

yqyremy4.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

Now the comparison to a gen.

 

Factory

TC

Gen

 

 

6ynehuru.jpg

e5ynyhes.jpg

ranyjeza.jpg

 

 

esyhydy2.jpg

nepypyza.jpg

unebyqy3.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

enajuty2.jpg

3aqenehe.jpg

repe4e2a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

Final TC. I think I posted this already.

 

4eve8e7a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
J.Eric

Wow!! Awesome job!!

 

You are becoming a pro at this!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Indigo38

Very impressive

 

(however to me the datewheels look almost identical apart from a bolder font?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek
Very impressive

 

(however to me the datewheels look almost identical apart from a bolder font?)

 

Rep font in too thin, too big. Looks wimpy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SSTEEL
Where do you get those beefy spring bars from mate?

 

eBay.

 

Thought as much lol, got a link to the seller of these please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Martin72

Impressive work and thread, fascinating read!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek
Where do you get those beefy spring bars from mate?

 

eBay.

 

Thought as much lol, got a link to the seller of these please?

 

Sorry it was a while back. These are 20x1.8. I opted for slightly smaller (not 2.0mm) so it would be compatible with more bracelets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SSTEEL

Ok, cheers :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jerkstore
Great work mate, and informative photos as usual, thanks for sharing.

 

I was under the impression, to remove the date wheel, you didn't need to remove anything, just a spring loaded release?

 

Technically. I guess I can partially twist the date wheel and pull up. There is a notch the teeth go in and the slide under a lip. It's between the two circles I put in that pic.

 

Yup, just line the teeth up with the notches. Depress the spring and lift up. Keep in mind that as you do this, you have to shift the DW to the crown side slightly, since its partially covered by the keyless plate.

 

LG: nice work. Always fun to read. The real-time thing is ballsy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek
Great work mate, and informative photos as usual, thanks for sharing.

 

I was under the impression, to remove the date wheel, you didn't need to remove anything, just a spring loaded release?

 

Technically. I guess I can partially twist the date wheel and pull up. There is a notch the teeth go in and the slide under a lip. It's between the two circles I put in that pic.

 

Yup, just line the teeth up with the notches. Depress the spring and lift up. Keep in mind that as you do this, you have to shift the DW to the crown side slightly, since its partially covered by the keyless plate.

 

LG: nice work. Always fun to read. The real-time thing is ballsy!

 

Can't depress the spring when the DWO is on since its covered...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jerkstore

 

Can't depress the spring when the DWO is on since its covered...

 

Actually, you can depress that spring blind, once you have a feel for its location.

 

Or, just remove the DWO first since you're trying to fix its alignment. The blind method is good to use if you just need to fix the keyless or something, but you like the alignment.

 

The hard part is trying get the DW back on again with the DWO already in place. Tricky, but it can be done.

Edited by jerkstore

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
flyr

Can't depress the spring when the DWO is on since its covered...

 

Actually, you can depress that spring blind, once you have a feel for its location.

 

Or, just remove the DWO first since you're trying to fix its alignment. The blind method is good to use if you just need to fix the keyless or something, but you like the alignment.

Jerkstore is right, it just takes one side of fine tip tweezers inserted through the gap in the case to compress the spring enough to allow the wheel to drop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

Can't depress the spring when the DWO is on since its covered...

 

Actually, you can depress that spring blind, once you have a feel for its location.

 

Or, just remove the DWO first since you're trying to fix its alignment. The blind method is good to use if you just need to fix the keyless or something, but you like the alignment.

Jerkstore is right, it just takes one side of fine tip tweezers inserted through the gap in the case to compress the spring enough to allow the wheel to drop.

 

That I got to see. I can't access the spring part even with thin sharp tweezers.

 

Getting it on with the overlay covering it... I can do that in my sleep now :)

 

The spring is where the green dot is, unless I'm mistaking which spring.

 

5egabevy.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
flyr

Well if you can do it without tweezers, great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek
Well if you can do it without tweezers, great!

 

It's the elusive "G-spot". The green spot.

 

I don't know how to get it off though, it's just popped off the other times. This one I unscrewed that part per some other tutorial.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

I think I'm ready to move on to the next challenge... reluming.

 

ypy5ugy9.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

One more thin but acceptable "factory" 19 pic from my Exp2.

 

6ype5eju.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
J!m

resurection of old thread...

 

I have aDWO I'm looking to install so I'm searching for info... Anyone with tips or tricks send 'em my way!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SSTEEL

resurection of old thread...

 

I have aDWO I'm looking to install so I'm searching for info... Anyone with tips or tricks send 'em my way!

 

Check my flickr, I use a 3D printed dwo tool for this job, Mike, Jerkshore maybe able to hook you up with one Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LightGeek

Hmmmm really? I might like one ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×