Wiz 0 Posted May 27, 2010 I had a little free time today so I decided to do a pictorial on how to properly seal and waterproof a watch crystal. When you put a rep in a watertester, the first leak will often come from the crystal sealing. Some may say that a watch is not designed to keep air inside but to keep water out, and they are right, but if you take any gen watch and put it in the same watertester, you won't see any leak around the crystal. Why? Well, of course the building of these watches is often better, but another reason is that the crystals are properly sealed and pressed on gen watches. And now the practical part - What you'll need: Crystal press Nylon dies UV Adhesive UV lamp Cement Hypo GS Probe Finger gloves Dust blower Microfiber cloth - Removing the crystal: First, you'll need to take the crystal out. Rep crystals are usually poorly pressed, so you'll probably be able to pop it out using only your fingers, but it's better to use a crystal press because it reduces the risk of damaging the edges of the crystal. Pick dies of the correct sizes for you watch. The side of the dies have to be quite close to the side of the crystal (1mm or less). For a 44mm panerai, 42/33 will usually fit. Press gently but firmly, and the crystal should pop out. If it doesn't, like it may happend with a gen, make sure the crystal is not locked by a ring, and if it's not, you'll probably have to use a stongest press. - Removing a pressed bezel: Some watches have a pressed bezel, like the 44mm panerai. Out of the factory, this bezel is not sealed, just pressed, and the waterproofness is maintained by a rubber gasket. On the watch I'm using for this tutorial, it already has been sealed, so I won't try to take it off because I could damage the watch in the process, but below you'll see a pic of what it should look like once removed. To remove it, simply use the press like you would do it for a crystal, but if you can it's better to use metal dies instead of nylon dies (nylon dies may break). To seal the bezel, apply silicone grease on the rubber gasket and Hypo cement on the case, before pressing the bezel back using the crysal press (be careful to place the bezel straight before pressing). - Cleaning: Start with removing the crystal gasket. It's usually a poor quality white hard plastic ring. Unfortunately you usually can't replace it on a rep, because you'll have a really hard time finding a better one that will perfectly fit. Once this gasket is out, clean all the parts, preferably with an ultra sound cleaner, but if you don't have one, a microfiber cloth, a brush and a dust blower will do the trick. Once everything is cleaned, put the crystal gasket back in place, and be carefull not to touch the inside of the watch or the gasket with your naked fingers. - Sealing: You can find lots of crystal sealants on the internet, but most of them have a huge downside: they intend to lose their sealing property with heat, which can be quite a problem during summer... The only ones that won't "fuze" under summer sun are the UV adhesives. I use the Minefix from Beco, mostly because I like the applicator. Another good thing about this sealant is that it will only set with UV light, so you can continue to work on the watch even hours after you've applied the adhesive. You don't need to use a lot of it, just a tiny bit, that you'll apply betwen the gasket and the top of the bezel (or the case if your watch doesn't have a bezel). Once the UV adhesive is applied, take the crystal with your finger gloves and put it carefully on the top of the watch. Don't try to press, just set it as straight as possible. If the crystal is slanted when you press it back, the sealing won't be good (you can even break thin sapphires!). Then press the crystal back. Again, press gently but firmly, and when you feel that the crystal is back in place, press a little harder (not too hard or you may break your dies). Clean carefully the excess of UV adhesive (which won't be a problem since it doesn't set without UV light). Put the watch under your UV lamp for 5 cycles on each side (each cycle is 2 minutes). - Finishing: Now the crystal is properly sealed and should be waterproofed, but to reinforce the waterproofness, we'll apply a layer of Hypo cement around the crystal. Blurs are not really a problem as you'll be cleaning later. Let it set for about 2 minutes and then remove the excess of glue using a wood stick. No let the cement set completly. For this one, it will be 24 hours. Finally, a few pics of my office Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Omeg@007 0 Posted May 27, 2010 Thanks Wiz for the awesome Tutorial,,,,,,,,,,,,VERY NICE :) Also, Very Nice Office.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dingle 57 Posted May 27, 2010 well done! instant sticky Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted May 27, 2010 Thanks! I hope there is not too much spelling mistakes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted May 27, 2010 Smashing stuff.... Great tuto wiz... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drhulee 0 Posted May 29, 2010 (edited) Wonderful write up, and I luv to see it when these tutes are done using PAMs as test subjects If I can just add a couple of suggestions. When pushing the crystal out, it is best to place a piece of neoprene (or thick cloth at least) between the die and crystal. This will distribute the force evenly on rounded crystals, and will also cut down on the likelihood of scraping any AR on the inside of the crystal. :o Also for PAM owners, you will probably find that the standard dies included with most presses are too small, so you will have to buy an extra "Large" set as well. If you don't have a press yet, be sure to ask if they can supply larger dies along with it. Regarding the UV cement, how long does it take to set if you don't have a UV light, or are there any other options? Edited May 29, 2010 by Drhulee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted May 30, 2010 @drhulee, UV will set hard in 1 hour in the sun, and be cured in around 6-8 hours. Inside (in natural light) it will eventually set, but takes maybe 8 hours to go hard and I don't know a curing time. It will never harden in a darkened room with artificial light. (Just goes "thicker") It has a consistency much closer to water than a lot of glues, so is much easier to work with. It cleans up with acetone, although acetone is better used whilst the UV has not cured (Initial clean up) You need to be more "circumspect" using acetone near it after curing, as you will need to reset any areas contacted by acetone. I personally would like to see the plastic retainer also glued with UV to the case if you are reusing it. I throw away these things and replace the crystal with one a little larger.....(I understand this is not an option for a lot of reseals on reps where the crystal is not easily replaceable)...I'm talking here of general (genuine) crystal replacement, where a crystal is scratched or damaged. I use Loctite 358. Offshore PS, I don't know if the GS hypo is achieving much in the above tute! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drhulee 0 Posted May 30, 2010 WHAT??! The Sun gives gives off UV light? Who'd of thunk? Yes I suffer from brain damage and often overlook the obvious Thx offshore I've always wanted to improve the seal around the crystals, as the plastic gaskets just seemed so inadequate. I wouldn't use the GS Hypo though, as I can't stand the stuff - tried to use it a couple of times just to secure movement plates but it always got too messy with those strands of cement it seems to love to make, usually end up with a "web" of glue Just wish there was a source for the white gaskets used on the PAMs. Too bad some enterprising factory worker hasn't grabbed a carton of them and put them up for sale at a few bucks a piece :P Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brightlight 0 Posted May 30, 2010 A word of warning about acetone - don't put it near acrylic crystals. It has a tendency to melt 'em. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lildaddym 0 Posted May 30, 2010 What's the Loctite 358? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted May 30, 2010 What's the Loctite 358? That's Loctite's UV glue. (Comes in a yellow bottle) O/S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lildaddym 0 Posted May 30, 2010 Ok, if one uses the original crystal (somewhat smaller) what about black silicone to fill in the gap once the UV glue dries? I read the specs, and this is an acrylic gule...kinda thin for filling things... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
offshore 0 Posted May 30, 2010 Don't think Loctite UV would ever act as a "filler". There would be far too big a gap to try to fill. And I doubt that the UV would be strong enough to span a gap like that on its own. I think you would need something more robust than silicone to fill a gap like that.(And hold) I would be tempted to try using UV to locate the old spacer in the case, then once that dried, use UV again to locate the crystal. (I don't think you would successfully do both glue jobs in one procedure) It would mean pressing the crystal into the spacer once UV was applied for the 2nd glue job, so it may get a tad messy! You could then maybe test the seal, by immersing the case without the movement in it, into water, with just the crown tube out, and blowing some air into the case, and see if either the crystal leaked or popped. (I have never tried this...just thinking out loud here) And then finally test it by assembling the thing without the movement, and do a WP test, doing a cycle of pressure on, wait 2-3 minutes with the case in air, then release the pressure whilst the case is still in air. Then repressure, immerse the case, and leak test it. If you run a cycle of pressure up, wait, and release, before immersing it, and it the crystal is going to pop, at least it will do it in the air, not underwater. (Just saves having to dry the case) This whole idea may be flawed, but at least if you tested without the movement/dial in situ, the worst scenario is a popped crystal or leaks, and a wet case. O/S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lildaddym 0 Posted May 30, 2010 I was just trying to figure out a way to make something work, since I accidentally popped a crystal out, and couldn't gat that spacer back in... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted May 30, 2010 (edited) When pushing the crystal out, it is best to place a piece of neoprene (or thick cloth at least) between the die and crystal. This will distribute the force evenly on rounded crystals, and will also cut down on the likelihood of scraping any AR on the inside of the crystal. :( I never tried, but I'm not sure it's a good idea. The most important thing is to apply an equal and firm pressure on the outline of the crystal, and a soft material like neoprene could be a potential source of issues. Also for PAM owners, you will probably find that the standard dies included with most presses are too small, so you will have to buy an extra "Large" set as well. Yup, for a lot of modern watches, standard dies will be too small. Regarding the UV cement, how long does it take to set if you don't have a UV light, or are there any other options? Before buying the UV lamp, I tried to use the sunlight, and it's a real pain in the ass. Sometimes it sets in 6 hours on a cloudy day, sometimes you still have that "oil" touch after 2 sunny days... I never managed to find a pattern. My best guess is that it depends on the design of the case/bezel. Edited May 30, 2010 by wiz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lildaddym 0 Posted May 31, 2010 I did find out that Permabond has something that will fill up to 3mm, but it seems it's not available retail...am I missing something? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trailboss99 988 Posted May 31, 2010 Loctite 358 is a type of UV curing cement, just a different brand and one that should be available almost anywhere in the world. Brilliant tute Wiz! Very good job and much appreciated by many I'm sure. Col. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted May 31, 2010 Ok, if one uses the original crystal (somewhat smaller) what about black silicone to fill in the gap once the UV glue dries? I read the specs, and this is an acrylic gule...kinda thin for filling things...I'm kind of circumspect, I think it won't be hard enough, but I guess the only way to find out is to give it a try. Sometimes you'll get really surprised by what's working or not. I was just trying to figure out a way to make something work, since I accidentally popped a crystal out, and couldn't gat that spacer back in...Why can't you get it back in? Once everything is cleaned you shouldn't face any problem. Loctite 358 is a type of UV curing cement, just a different brand and one that should be available almost anywhere in the world. Brilliant tute Wiz! Very good job and much appreciated by many I'm sure. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RolexAddict 1 Posted June 5, 2010 Excellent ! as usual, I just fly over sections and don't read, I have learn something new today the fact to use the cristal ring AND glue, I am sure lot of pros don't care like this to secure... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P_Diddy 0 Posted June 5, 2010 Wiz, that is tops! how long you been doing this ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted July 17, 2010 My interest in watches is quite new, but I've always been a quick learner, and I've been lucky enough to have some engineer friends as a priceless source of knowledges Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maduro 1 Posted November 23, 2010 Two thumbs up..........way up!! Maduro "smoke'm if you got a cuban." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SirDomino 0 Posted January 10, 2011 Wow, is this the same method BK uses for this premium Ultimate DSSD when he "presses" the crystal in properly? http://www.replica-watches-guide.com/forum...?showtopic=6182 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites