KeNnY 29 Posted January 13, 2011 Thank you for the wonderful tutorial ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PEPO_TG 0 Posted February 21, 2011 Do you think that could work on a Replica TAG GRAND CARRERA RS17-2? Anyone to have repaired the crystal on a model like that? I'm waiting for one to arrive with a loose crystal beneath the tachymeter bezel. Don't know if it's a broken crystal or just came loose due to bad construction and I'm not sure what exactly is between the crystal and the case, whether it's pressed, whether it has a waterproof sealing/ring, any cement or is it glued ... who knows? BTW It's a great Tut-l and many thanks for spending some of your time to share it with us Cheers! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted February 21, 2011 I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work, but no way to know what's going on without havingthe watch in hands. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PEPO_TG 0 Posted February 23, 2011 I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work, but no way to know what's going on without havingthe watch in hands. I guess I will know by that time tomorrow or the day after. Will keep you posted if you like! Thanks, Peter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tissotman 0 Posted March 9, 2011 nice write up great tips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
turnipz 0 Posted March 12, 2011 What about the pushers on a watch like the aqua terra gmt: Would they make it harder to waterproof, and would quartz pushers be the same? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted March 12, 2011 Chrono pushers are harder to waterproof but not impossible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
opus9 0 Posted April 26, 2011 I had a little free time today so I decided to do a pictorial on how to properly seal and waterproof a watch crystal. When you put a rep in a watertester, the first leak will often come from the crystal sealing. Some may say that a watch is not designed to keep air inside but to keep water out, and they are right, but if you take any gen watch and put it in the same watertester, you won't see any leak around the crystal. Why? Well, of course the building of these watches is often better, but another reason is that the crystals are properly sealed and pressed on gen watches. And now the practical part - What you'll need: Crystal press Nylon dies UV Adhesive UV lamp Cement Hypo GS Probe Finger gloves Dust blower Microfiber cloth - Removing the crystal: First, you'll need to take the crystal out. Rep crystals are usually poorly pressed, so you'll probably be able to pop it out using only your fingers, but it's better to use a crystal press because it reduces the risk of damaging the edges of the crystal. Pick dies of the correct sizes for you watch. The side of the dies have to be quite close to the side of the crystal (1mm or less). For a 44mm panerai, 42/33 will usually fit. Press gently but firmly, and the crystal should pop out. If it doesn't, like it may happend with a gen, make sure the crystal is not locked by a ring, and if it's not, you'll probably have to use a stongest press. - Removing a pressed bezel: Some watches have a pressed bezel, like the 44mm panerai. Out of the factory, this bezel is not sealed, just pressed, and the waterproofness is maintained by a rubber gasket. On the watch I'm using for this tutorial, it already has been sealed, so I won't try to take it off because I could damage the watch in the process, but below you'll see a pic of what it should look like once removed. To remove it, simply use the press like you would do it for a crystal, but if you can it's better to use metal dies instead of nylon dies (nylon dies may break). To seal the bezel, apply silicone grease on the rubber gasket and Hypo cement on the case, before pressing the bezel back using the crysal press (be careful to place the bezel straight before pressing). - Cleaning: Start with removing the crystal gasket. It's usually a poor quality white hard plastic ring. Unfortunately you usually can't replace it on a rep, because you'll have a really hard time finding a better one that will perfectly fit. Once this gasket is out, clean all the parts, preferably with an ultra sound cleaner, but if you don't have one, a microfiber cloth, a brush and a dust blower will do the trick. Once everything is cleaned, put the crystal gasket back in place, and be carefull not to touch the inside of the watch or the gasket with your naked fingers. - Sealing: You can find lots of crystal sealants on the internet, but most of them have a huge downside: they intend to lose their sealing property with heat, which can be quite a problem during summer... The only ones that won't "fuze" under summer sun are the UV adhesives. I use the Minefix from Beco, mostly because I like the applicator. Another good thing about this sealant is that it will only set with UV light, so you can continue to work on the watch even hours after you've applied the adhesive. You don't need to use a lot of it, just a tiny bit, that you'll apply betwen the gasket and the top of the bezel (or the case if your watch doesn't have a bezel). Once the UV adhesive is applied, take the crystal with your finger gloves and put it carefully on the top of the watch. Don't try to press, just set it as straight as possible. If the crystal is slanted when you press it back, the sealing won't be good (you can even break thin sapphires!). Then press the crystal back. Again, press gently but firmly, and when you feel that the crystal is back in place, press a little harder (not too hard or you may break your dies). Clean carefully the excess of UV adhesive (which won't be a problem since it doesn't set without UV light). Put the watch under your UV lamp for 5 cycles on each side (each cycle is 2 minutes). - Finishing: Now the crystal is properly sealed and should be waterproofed, but to reinforce the waterproofness, we'll apply a layer of Hypo cement around the crystal. Blurs are not really a problem as you'll be cleaning later. Let it set for about 2 minutes and then remove the excess of glue using a wood stick. No let the cement set completly. For this one, it will be 24 hours. Finally, a few pics of my office So the next question is...you gonna offer this service to others and if so how much bob would you like to charge ? you could have quite a few interested parties here!! me to start!! regards opus9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anthonyd 0 Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Sorry to drag up an old post, but I have a question: I have a tag chrono that I tested and it has an ever so slight leak at 8 on the crystal. Do you think it would be possible to just perform the finishing step you outline with the hypo cement? I have never removed a crystal and am a bit reluctant to do it, if i use the correct press what are teh chances of the crystal breaking when I try to remove it? Edited October 24, 2011 by anthonyd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Swoop 0 Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Another new post on an old thread but. Is your UV light unit the same as the ones sold for curing the UV Glue used to stick on fake fingernails? Edited January 11, 2012 by Captain Swoop Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trailboss99 994 Posted January 11, 2012 That will do nicely CS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Swoop 0 Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Good because the Missus already has one of those and I have used it for several UV Glue jobs, I thought it couldn't be any different Edited January 11, 2012 by Captain Swoop Share this post Link to post Share on other sites