Date overlay positioner coming soon

[jerkstore 14]

Aligning date overlays can get tiring. Usually, it involves using a slow drying adhesive to fix the overlay to the date wheel. Then, it's a matter of advancing the overlay through all the dates, and making little corrections each time you notice something off.

 

Probably the most frustrating part is that it's very easy to go a little too far and push some other date out of place--which you don't notice until it comes back up to your date window once again. A related problem is that our overlays are often not quite right, particularly in terms of fitting to genuine dials. Getting things equally off is the best you can do. And that's hard.

 

I had been thinking about how to speed up the process with a 3d printed tool until Bonesey mentioned something I hadn't considered. Because there are 31 dates on the wheel, they are not spaced such that you can make four windows at 3,6,9, and 12. So I spent a lunchtime trying to work out the correct spacing using a little high school trigonometry.

 

I made this prototype "dial" that should aid in the centering process... Here it is overlayed on a genuine 3035 date wheel:

 

 

 

It has five windows cut out around the dial, and three slots meant for manual alignment. The two small holes are meant for dial feet that you just slide in from above and glue in place. These are located for an ETA 2824/2836.

 

I still need to test it to see how well it works, but it looks promising. Bonesey is planning to include something like it as part of his 3d printed tools suite:

 

http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=164231

 

Any comments or ideas about how to improve it are appreciated.

Edited November 24, 2013 by jerkstore

[jmac3789 0]

nice

[myaz 3]

Phenomenal, I can't even remember how to spell trig. Would an extra slot cut on the right side help you to adjust/manipulate the dial from the right side?

[LightGeek 41]

Awww where's the fun in that?

[jerkstore 14]

Awww where's the fun in that?

 

 

I think an extra slot on the right could be useful. Maybe directly out from the 3 o' clock window, or a slice cut out under it. Originally, I wanted to keep it clean since that's the target window.

 

I wrote a spreadsheet to calculate the window position given a few simple inputs. Although his one is designed for a genuine Rolex dial, these could easily be generated for other rep and genuine dials, too. (The current assumption is that the target window is at 3 o'clock, but this could be changed around, as necessary).

[SSTEEL 0]

Superb idea, and I would be interested in one of these. Only recently have I had the fun in aligning an overlay.

[digger2 0]

Great idea!

[ShovelnTC 194]

Nothing to ad but just to say great work.

[Dr. Jimmy 29]

Very cool.

[Odyseus 1]

Superb idea, and I would be interested in one of these. Only recently have I had the fun in aligning an overlay.

 

So would I be interested;) excellent piece of work, nicely designed.

I wonder if there's a slower drying glue than G-S cement, sticks too quickly :(

 

Awww where's the fun in that?

 

But you are a master do DW alignment !!

[Rockzz22 0]

That is a great idea.

[SSTEEL 0]

 

I wonder if there's a slower drying glue than G-S cement, sticks too quickly :(

 

I was trying to think of something as I have been having the same problem with GS sticking too quickly, then it struck me, what about using just the one part of the two part epoxy-resin ? Just add a few dots of the clear part, and don't add any of the hardener/accelerate bonding agent.

[jerkstore 14]

Agreed on the GS cement problem: it dries waaay too fast. I've used Epoxy with success.

 

Recently I've been using Tacky Glue, and it's solid. Not too fast, not too slow.

[Odyseus 1]

Agreed on the GS cement problem: it dries waaay too fast. I've used Epoxy with success.

 

Recently I've been using Tacky Glue, and it's solid. Not too fast, not too slow.

 

 

Looks like Amazon UK sell this stuff aswell I'll Have to give it a try?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleenes-Premium-Glue-Original-Tacky/dp/B00178KLEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385235468&sr=8-2&keywords=Tacky+Glue

[ado213 0]

Go for the two hour setting epoxy, it's great to have the extra time to manipulate the DWO. In the uk "Evo stick" do a really good two part epoxy. As always use it in a cool environment if you want to get maximum working time

[J!m 289]

Resurection....

 

Looking at any tips or tricks to align a DWO when you don't have the cool alignment tool... I have done non-date reps or gen movement/dial/date wheels so it was never a concern...

 

I am guessing the first paragraph of this thread is the 'way' it's done...

[SSTEEL 0]

Oh, and while we are at it, this stuff is great for DWO's..

 

30 minute sow cure two part epoxy..

 

Untitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

The same company does a 15 minute slow cure too.

[kamma 1]

If you want an epoxy that will give you up to 2 hours repositioning time then search for Araldite 2011

 

I use this on a weekly basis in my work and its great stuff if you need the extra time and less pressure to get thing exactly as you want before the curing process starts to take over.

 

I usually order it in 2kg pots and its still called 2011, but its been renamed for the mass market as Araldite Precision (or Standard) the tubes are White and Blue, you get about 90 mins

work time with the small tubes, but anything from the 100ml tubes and above give you 2hrs.

 

 

You can also slow down the curing process if you put less hardener in the mix, so instead of 50/50 do it 70/30 or 80/20 this will slow it down for you, you need to experiment what works

best for you and also your location can play a big part in the curing time if you have high heat and humidity.

 

Its fine altering the ratios on something like a date wheel overlay as you dont need the same strength as say something thats broken and you need the tensile strenth a 50/50 mix will give you.

[plankton 1]

Nice idea

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

Resurection....

 

Looking at any tips or tricks to align a DWO when you don't have the cool alignment tool... I have done non-date reps or gen movement/dial/date wheels so it was never a concern...

 

I am guessing the first paragraph of this thread is the 'way' it's done...

dry fit so you can see the center.

insert the stem

use the DW 3 or 13 so you have a number with a center reference point that will line up with the stem (the stem should be centered on the DW cutout.)

[J!m 289]

I ended up using the white overay I had which was self-adhesive. With a bit of wrastling I got it sorted.

 

Note to all who mess with this: quick-set date position is not exactly the same as rolling at midnight date position, even though it should be...

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

Note to all who mess with this: quick-set date position is not exactly the same as rolling at midnight date position, even though it should be...

It is if the parts are clean, properly lubricated, manufactured correctly, and working correctly.

[J!m 289]

Note to all who mess with this: quick-set date position is not exactly the same as rolling at midnight date position, even though it should be...

It is if the parts are clean, properly lubricated, manufactured correctly, and working correctly.

 

Talk to those hacks at Eta then... This is a NOS Eta 2879 movement I unwrapped. I think the dial is rubbing the overlay too much. I might have to layer some tape on the date spacer to get a bit more space in there. Will add a wave washer on the hour wheel too I think- maybe just the clip back on (I took the day wheel off) will take care of both problems...

[10:10 Watch Repair 1]

Note to all who mess with this: quick-set date position is not exactly the same as rolling at midnight date position, even though it should be...

It is if the parts are clean, properly lubricated, manufactured correctly, and working correctly.

 

Talk to those hacks at Eta then... I think the dial is rubbing the overlay too much.

It ain't an ETA problem. You have your answer.

[SSTEEL 0]

If the overlay is rubbing the underside of the dial, you can use a dial spacer.