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Jholmeson

[Review] Patek 5119 Calatrava

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Jholmeson

This appears to be a new version of the Calatrava 5119, that popped up quite recently. I got it from Intime. It’s one of my grail watches (the first watch I fell in love with after deciding to learn about watches) and I’ve not seen a passable rep before so I was very excited about this one.

 

The genuine watch hasn’t changed much since it was introduced in 1932, other than to make it bigger for modern trends in 2006. Its austere simplicity is a nod to the Bauhaus architecture popular at the time. Its styling transcends fashion, the British term “proper” sums it up best. If it was a suit, it’d be a navy blue Savile row number; a drink, a gin martini heavy on the vermouth; a chair, a Mies van der Rohe Barcelona chair. All rather plain and somewhat boring to the outsider, a paragon of elegance and timeless style to the insider. It’s the kind of watch you want to be buried in so you still look stylish when an archaeologist digs you up in 500 years.

 

There are few perfect objects in the world but for me, the Patek Calatrava is one of them. Its surface simplicity belies a beautiful collection of subtle design details that keep on revealing themselves the longer you look.

 

Flaws of the rep are that the diameter is slightly too big (38.7mm vs 36mm) and it’s too thick (10mm vs 6.5mm). However, it does a great job of hiding its thickness by dramatically tapering inwards - when it’s on the wrist it looks much thinner, and the crown is touching the wrist.

 

The “Clous de Paris” hobnail bezel is well replicated and reflects light beautifully, although not quite as nicely as white gold would. The printing on the bezel is crisp and clear, slightly raised to emulate the lacquered dial of the gen. The lugs are gently pointed like the gen and replicate the tiny hallmarks on the case. The crystal appears to be ever so slightly domed and replicates the bezeled edge which sometimes reflects the numbers in the bezel, a tiny detail but really helps to capture the essence of the gen. The hands appear to be the correct size and length. The crown appears to be correctly sized and the Calatrava cross is crisp and clear.

 

The back is a unique replica of the Caliber 215 movement in the gen, I’ve not seen this pattern before so I think it’s replicated specially for this model. I think the cogs are faux - there was a small grease spot on the large wheel that hasn’t moved since I got it. Its a Seagull T1701 manual movement, which I’m not familiar with. It beats at 21,600vph which matches the gen movement. The molding of the back matches the gen with the exception of using screws to hold the back on rather than a screw-on back. This is probably the biggest giveaway when comparing it to photos.

 

Strap’s garbage as usual, picked up a gen black crocodile strap from eBay. The springbars match the quick release ones on the gen so it works with a genuine strap that has the cuts for the quick release bars. A gen strap is about 1mm too small due to the scaled up case, but still looks good.

 

I’m very impressed with this rep, and the lengths that have been taken to capture the feeling of the gen. It’s the first Calatrava I’ve seen that really does that. Would definitely recommend it.

 

No idea when I’m going to wear the damn thing. It’s the dressiest of dress watches and would look best with a tuxedo, unfortunately my Met Gala invite got lost in the post. Maybe next year...

 

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james green

A wonderful watch! Can I ask who you bought it from? I am looking for the same.

Regards

James

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Glaude
On 03/05/2017 at 04:50, Jholmeson said:

I got it from Intime

I think behind your great unearthing of this post your forgot to read well this awesome review...

He got it from Intime, TD on an other board.

#2 TNS ... ?

Edited by Glaude

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_DC_

Great review, in must have missed this during my hiatus from the board. Always liked the 5119, never sure if it would suit me, but also these days I only really wear dress watches to work, and I always wear my 5227 so other watches don't really get a look in!

A super piece though, wear it in good health my friend!

DC

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