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Official Strap Making Thread

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JohnG

Part 1 of 5, FROGMAN STRAP MAKING TUTORIAL, REPOSTED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM REPGEEK

 

 

INTRODUCTION TO MAKING A STRAP

 

 

This is my first attempt at writing a “how-to†post….so please be patient when I start rambling. I have been strapped (no pun intended) for time lately, so I broke this write-up into 3 sections. When I started making straps I found a few posts on how to cut, glue, and stitch the leather. However, it took some time to track down where to buy the supplies. I found that finding the leather and selecting the tools was very time consuming. I never realized how many types of leather tools were available. So, to save you time and energy I will show you what I use and where I got my supplies. DISCLOSER: I’m not the best at making straps, but I enjoy doing it and I wanted to pass the fun along to others. If your strap turns out looking like crap, or if you find yourself spending a lot of money on leather hides or tools, please don’t blame the frogman.

 

Enjoy!

 

First, we need to gather our tools and pick a piece of leather. Having the right tools for the job will make your project run smoother and you will be happy with the end result. Many of the posts I’ve seen jump right into making the strap, but skip the most basic information….Where do I find the tools and supplies? We will cover this FIRST! Here is a picture of the tools I chose:

  1. Hammer (any one will do)


  2. Clamps (Home depot)


  3. Super glue (any brand will do)






  4. Knife (any one will do)



  5. End Punch (I suggest the 1" version)



  6. Compass (any brand will do)


  7. Waxed Thread (black, brown, white)


  8. Stitching Needles (this is my preference)


  9. Ruler (I suggest a t-square)


  10. OH YEAH, don't forget a cutting board


~The Stitching Necessities~

 

I would suggest investing a couple bucks in good needles. I really like Tandy's larger needles with larger eyes. This will make "locking" the thread much easier when you are anxious to finish your strap. When you order the thread, stick with the pre-waxed option and buy the nylon version. Number 13 above will take you Tandy's website were you can explore more options.

 

 

 

DSC03209.jpg

 

 

Buy yourself some bees wax! This will help you during the stitching part TREMENDOUSLY.

 

 

 

DSC03218.jpg

 

 

 

Find yourself a compass (shown in the picture below)...I found that using one of these on your strap will result in straighter lines and a nice stitch. This is an older one that I had lying around the house.

 

 

DSC03222.jpg

 

 

 

~The Liquids~

 

 

 

The edge of your strap will determine the look and feel you are after. Meaning, you can finish the edge smooth, stain it with color, or leave it natural. Your wax, Edge Kote, and Gum Tragacanth will come in very handy here.

 

DSC03210.jpg

 

I would suggest buying the black Edge Kote first with a small bottle of the Gum Tragacanth. You can do almost any strap project with these two liquids in your strap making kit. The Gum Tragacanth is used for smoothing the tiny hairs that will show up on the edge of your leather. For a smooth look you will need to use this to burnish the sides. We'll explore that later. I tried other cements and I found that Tandy's contact cement is some of the best. It give you a few minutes to work with the leather before it sets up. I highly recommend it....but I'm sure many of you can find alternatives.

 

 

 

~The Punch~

You have many different options when choosing a punch. I decided to use a diamond punch. This punch changes the hole alignment and the stitching look. Here is an example:

IMG_3924.jpg

 

It isn't so much the stitching style you choose, as it is the hole alignment (ie the punch tool). Although, you will have the option to use a back or saddle stitch method with your project. We will cover the different styles in the second part of this write-up. Alright, here is a close-up picture of the diamond punch:

 

DSC03224.jpg

 

 

~The Leather~

The tools are important, taking your time is key, but choosing the right leather should be your first order of business. If you start with a piece that is to thick your strap will look odd on your wrist. The opposite is true also...if the leather is too thin then the strap will look cheap and tiny on our HUGE Pams. I really like the stoned oil leather that Tandy offers. You can see it here. I usually buy leather in the 4-5 oz weights. I like the look of the finished strap and it doesn't seem to be too thick. Both of the pieces of leather in the picture below are from the same hide. Each hide will have 2 sides. One will be smooth and look "finished". The other looks raw and unfinished.

 

DSC03228.jpg

 

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DSC03229.jpg

 

Having a nice flat surface and a t-square will help assure that your cuts are nice and straight. You will need a cutting board! You can buy nice marble slabs and professional cutting boards. I went the cheaper route and used one from my kitchen. Make sure not to let your wife catch you.....trust me...I made that mistake.

 

 

~Sum it up~

I hope this answers a few questions concerning the tools and supplies you will need to start and finish your strap projects. The second part of this tutorial is complete, you can read it here. . If you have any questions about, send me a PM and I'll try to answer it. Remember I am a novice at this myself....so keep your questions simple :lol:

 

 

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JohnG

Part 2 of 5, FROGMAN STRAP MAKING TUTORIAL, REPOSTED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM REPGEEK

 

 

MAKING A STRAP: PART 2

The Long Side

 

 

This is the second part of our strap tutorial. In the

introduction we reviewed the tools and supplies that would be needed and where to source them. Part 2 will focus on how to layout, cut, and assemble the "long side" of the strap. Each strap you create will have to sides which we will call the long side and the short side. The picture below shows one of my older straps that I have beat the crap out of and I use to test different techniques. Pay no attention to the unfinished sections.

DSC03383.jpg

 

 

______________________________________________________________________________

~THE LAYOUT & DESIGN~

The first thing we need to do is determine the length of strap you need. If you already have straps that fit, all you need to do is measure the distance from tip to tip.

DSC03388.jpg

 

 

We measure straps in millimeters (mm). With that said, normally you will find straps being sold under numbers like 115/75 or 120/80. Let's take 120/80 and break it down. The 120 means the long side is 120mm (in length) and the 80 stands for 80mm (in length) on the short side. It is that simple! To give you a point of reference, I have a 7"-7.25" wrist. The 120/80 allows the strap to have a little excess (refer to the picture below) and works better if you are making a thicker strap. If you have further questions, send me a PM.

DSC02985.jpg

 

 

We need to layout and decide how much leather we need to cut. I want to have a 120mm strap, but we need to allow for loss and bends in the leather. I suggest adding 10mm to allow for this. Here is how it works:

 

LONG SIDE FORMULA

(DESIRED STRAP LENGTH x 2) + 10mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

 

EXAMPLE

(120mm x 2) + 10mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

250mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

 

That last think I need to do is measure the lug width of my watch. For this tutorial, I am making a 26mm wide strap. Hmmm, could this be going on a FIDDY? Alright, so basically we are going to end up with a strap (long side) that is 120mm long and 26mm wide. Here we go...

 

 

______________________________________________________________________________

~MAKING THE CUT~

 

In my opinion, this is the most important step in your strap project. If you take your time and cut straight edges, the end result will look amazing. Make sure you cut the leather hide on a hard flat surface. First, we will unroll the hide and lay it with the smooth side face up. Use your ruler and measure out 250mm. Cut the hide with a razor blade and toss the extra pieces to the side. Don't throw them away because you might be able to use them later.

DSC03451.jpg

DSC03453.jpg

 

(HINT: use a small flat head screwdriver to mark the leather. Wet the tip each time before you scribe the hide.)

DSC03457.jpg

DSC03459.jpg

 

 

Use your t-square to measure out 26mm. Make sure you use the side you just cut to measure from. Normally the leather does not have straight sides from the leather shop. Continue, using the same steps until you end up with one piece of leather 250mm x 26mm.

DSC03462.jpg

 

 

 

______________________________________________________________________________

~GLUE IT~

This is an easy step. Bend the leather so that both ends are flush. Take note on where the leather bends.

DSC03463.jpg

DSC03465.jpg

DSC03468.jpg

 

 

You will need to apply adhesive all over the leather on both sides. Use a

tube, screwdriver, or something of equal size to wedge between the leather pieces. This will assure a nice tight fit after the glue is dry.

DSC03480.jpg

DSC03481.jpg

DSC03482.jpg

DSC03485.jpg

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You will need to find something to put the strap between while it dries. I use two pieces of wood and clamp them. The adhesive I use takes a few hours to cure. Make sure the strap is set before moving on to the next step.

DSC03495.jpg

DSC03497.jpg

 

 

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JohnG

Part 3 of 5, FROGMAN STRAP MAKING TUTORIAL, REPOSTED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM REPGEEK

 

 

MAKING A STRAP: PART 3

The Long Side

 

 

~TIP OF THE STRAP~

You can use a tool like the one pictured below or a razor blade to complete this step. I'd try it with the razor blade first and then you will appreciate the tool more. I don't need to say much about this step, the pictures are self explanatory.

 

DSC03544.jpg

 

DSC03554.jpg

 

~THE PUNCH LINE~

Now we move on to one of the final steps. We need to scribe the leather and use the punch tool to make holes for the stitching. Pay special attention to the direction of your punch tool. The stitching will look funny if both sides are not going the same direction. We will be using the compass and t-square to scribe the leather.

 

 

DSC03561.jpg

 

DSC03565.jpg

 

I would start at the top of the strap where it attaches to the lugs. Work your way around until you get to the farthest tip. You might need to pull and stretch the punch to make the holes line up, but don't worry everything will line up in the end.

 

DSC03568.jpg

DSC03577.jpg

 

I try to keep both sides lined up as I go. Normally, I eyeball the last few holes. The strap is almost ready for stitching, but first we need to dye the edges.

 

DSC03584.jpg

 

~BURINSH AND STAIN~

 

Everyone seems to have an opinion about this next step. Form your own opinions after you've experimented to see what works best for you and produces the desired results. I prefer to coat first, then burnish the edge. The result is an older looking surface. When you "burnish" the leather it will smooth the surface and make it look finished. This occurs when you heat the leather up through friction. To apply the edge kote I use a q-tip with the end cut off. I'm sure you can find something fancy lying around your house.

 

DSC03585.jpg

 

Apply the edge kote and make sure you cover the entire surface. Try not to get it on the top or bottom of the strap.

 

DSC03587.jpg

 

I started out using a cloth for this step, but I recently purchased this nifty little tool from Tandy that works like a charm. You put it on the end of a drill and it makes your job soooo much easier. You want to work with the leather until it has a smooth appearance. Don't be afraid to spend some time here. The more effort you put into this step, the nicer your strap will look in the end. Once you are satisfied with the look use a little Gum Tragacanth on the edges to keep the small fibers down. You can follow the same steps and use the burnishing tool.

 

DSC03590.jpg

DSC03592.jpg

 

~THE STITCHING~

 

This is our final step in making our strap. You will first need to "lock the thread" on your needle. I didn't have the room to add that to our tutorial, so I created another tutorial specifically for this.

Learn how to lock the thread...

 

Next, we will be using the backstitch method on this strap. Honestly, a saddle stitch is stronger, but I love the way the backstitch looks. To help show you the method I've created a short slideshow that will help you in the stitching steps. Click on the small picture below to view that.

 

th_DSC03679.jpg

 

Since you don't want to run out of thread during your stitching process, I normally measure out 3x the amount that I'll need. stretch the thread over the strap on all sides and this is the number you start with. Now, lets begin. Here is a picture of how the thread should look when you start.

 

DSC03692.jpg

 

Use a little super glue to hold the thread in place and trim the excess. That's it, you are finished. You've completed the first side of your strap. Here is how it should look. I'm sure your strap will look much nicer than mine. Good luck and have fun.

 

DSC03752.jpg

DSC03753.jpg

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greg_r

Very useful post, John - thanks. I'm very tempted to have a go at this (I've worked with leather before), but I just never seem to find the time....

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JohnG

Part 4 of 5, FROGMAN STRAP MAKING TUTORIAL, REPOSTED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM REPGEEK

 

 

MAKING A STRAP: PART 4

The Short Side

 

This is the final post in my strap tutorial. I want to thank everyone for the kind words and great feedback. I will keep this post as brief as possible by referring back to my previous tutorials. I really hope anyone that uses these tutorials will post their results for all to see. Enjoy!

 

~THE LAYOUT AND DESIGN~

This part should be easy. We need to layout the strap on the hide and then cut it. Please refer to "MAKING THE CUT" from Part 2 for the basic steps.

DSC03232.jpg

 

Remember, the width is 26mm and the overall length of the strap needs to be 80mm. The question is, "how much leather do we need to cut?"

 

SHORT SIDE FORMULA

(DESIRED STRAP LENGTH x 2) + 25mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

 

EXAMPLE

(80mm x 2) + 25mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

185mm = TOTAL LEATHER NEEDED

 

We need to add 25mm to our total leather needed because we will have two folds on this strap. When I first starting making straps I had a hard time with the short side. In my opinion this is still the hardest part of making a strap. I've looked at the design of many straps and come to the conclusion that you can fold the strap at any point on the leather that you want. I like to fold the leather over and make one side longer than the other. This longer end (pictured below) will be on the lug side of the strap. That way when we use a keeper it will cover the joint at which the leather meets. Plus, it makes it easier to sew in a buckle if you use this option. You will need to use some adhesive to glue the folded pieces of leather together. Remember to leave an opening to mount the strap to the watch (

refer here). DO NOT GLUE BOTH FOLDED SIDES. Only glue the one side and leave the other side open like you see in the picture below.

.

DSC03504.jpg

 

 

~SLICE AND DICE~

When we were working on the long side all we needed to do is take one piece of leather and fold it over. That's it, and our strap was almost complete. Unfortunately, the short side isn't as simple. Eventually we will need to join each side of this strap to each other. The problem is, if we try to overlay the piece of leather it will be to thick at the joint. If we try to butt the two ends up to each other, the strap will be weak at this point. So, what should we do? We will need to use an old leather working technique called chamfering. This is done by cutting an angle into the end of the leather. They make special tools for this job, unfortunately I don't own any of those tools. Instead I use a razor blade to cut the leather down.

 

From the picture below, you can see that I've already chamfered the glued side (marked number 1). Fold the other side over to figure out where you will need to start cutting and make two marks. Please refer to number 2 in the picture.

 

DSC04079.jpg

 

Next, we will use a razor blade and start to trim the leather down. You will want to make the tip as thin as possible. Keep folding the leather over the joint to see how smooth the strap joins up.

 

DSC04080.jpg

DSC04082.jpg

 

 

Once you've thinned the leather and it looks to make a nice joint, you are ready to glue.

 

DSC04085.jpg

DSC04086.jpg

 

~GLUE IT~

Make a couple test folds to see if everything will line up. You will need to put adhesive on one side of the strap.

 

DSC04087.jpg

 

Don't forget to use something on the end so that the strap will keep a nice opening for the buckle.

 

DSC04090.jpg

 

Clamp the strap and let it sit for 24 hours. It might take you a little more time to complete your strap, but it will be well worth it because your strap will have time to set.

 

DSC04092.jpg

 

~BURNISH AND STAIN~

When we made the long side of the strap I burnished and stained the strap after I punched the leather. It doesn't matter which of these steps your do first...the result will be the same. So, with that said I will do this step now....then work on punching the leather.

 

This is an easy step, but it will take you longer than anything else in this tutorial. Please take your time here and get the leather nice and smooth.

Refer here for step by step instructions. Here are the pictures to save space and time.

 

IMG_6031.jpg

IMG_6037.jpg

IMG_6054.jpg

IMG_6042.jpg

 

~THE PUNCH LINE~

Once the glue has dried for 24 hours we will need to scribe the leather and then punch it before stitching. For this step we will be using the scribe and t-square to get an accurate line.

 

IMG_6059.jpg

IMG_6063.jpg

 

Your leather should look something like the picture below. Remember the hint that I gave you from one of the previous tutorials? Add a little water to the end of your scribe before making the line. This will make the line easier to see when you punch the leather.

 

IMG_6066.jpg

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JohnG

Part 5 of 5, FROGMAN STRAP MAKING TUTORIAL, REPOSTED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM REPGEEK

 

 

MAKING A STRAP: PART 5

The Short Side Cont..

 

 

~THE PUNCH LINE CONTINUED~

Now, we need to punch the strap so we can start the stitching.

 

IMG_6056.jpg

 

~THE STITCHING~

You should be good at stitching now...so we won't go into how to do this step. Just stitch the strap using the same method as before. If you run into any problems refer back to the stitching portion of the 2nd tutorial.

 

IMG_6072.jpg

 

~THE FINALE~

That my friends is how you make a strap! Cut the thread and secure it exactly like you did on the long side. I placed a buckle (that is 24mm) along our 26mm strap so you can see how the strap would look complete. I've really enjoyed doing this tutorial and I love all of the feedback I've gotten from the forum.

 

IMG_6078.jpg

 

~EXTRA PICTURES AND A SPECIAL THANK YOU~

I spend all of my extra time on this forum learning from others and giving back to it when ever possible. I have crossed paths with many members and I have made great friends. I want to thank everyone who makes this forum possible! However, one founding member has ALWAYS been there anytime I have a question or needed something.

 

JCM, Thank you for being a great MOD and to show my Thanks I hope you will accept the strap made from this tutorial. It isn't the best, and it isn't the worst....but it is a token of my appreciation for what you do. Enjoy my friend!

 

IMG_6090.jpg

IMG_6088.jpg

IMG_6052.jpg

IMG_6050.jpg

 

~THE END~

 

IMG_6048.jpg

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JohnG
Very useful post, John - thanks. I'm very tempted to have a go at this (I've worked with leather before), but I just never seem to find the time....

Well you should have a lot more time once the new sales forum is up! :lol:

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greg_r
Very useful post, John - thanks. I'm very tempted to have a go at this (I've worked with leather before), but I just never seem to find the time....

Well you should have a lot more time once the new sales forum is up! :lol:

 

um right. oooooooooooooooooooook

 

;)

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Dr.Manhatten

does anybody know what the strap tip tool is, the tool to get a perfect edge every time? i didnt see it's name mentioned in the article. what an excelent article, it has inspired me to try to make a few straps. im gonna see about getting some Caiman skin and trying these steps out.

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alphakazi
does anybody know what the strap tip tool is, the tool to get a perfect edge every time? i didnt see it's name mentioned in the article. what an excelent article, it has inspired me to try to make a few straps. im gonna see about getting some Caiman skin and trying these steps out.

 

go for it Dr. M! Some thought about it (including myself) but nothing as of yet. Luthier may show us something soon as he already bought materials and tools. I'm interested to see some member creations :jingoism:

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JohnG
does anybody know what the strap tip tool is, the tool to get a perfect edge every time? i didnt see it's name mentioned in the article. what an excelent article, it has inspired me to try to make a few straps. im gonna see about getting some Caiman skin and trying these steps out.

"End Punch" - you can find them here:

 

http://eleathersupply.com/punches.shtml

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thunder92

Awesome thanks.

Edited by thunder92

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initram5

great!

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onzenuub

Great?

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N.Rico

WOW!!!!!!!!!! :boxedin:

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omegaman007

Very detailed I really like this forum

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King Jubilee

Fantastic thread and love that dark brown strap on your Panny. Is it the 118?

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Mattwah

Awesome series of posts, Can any of this gear ve bought from the shop ... I recently bought ne some screwdrives n a springbar tool .. very happy woththe quality

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chekkarn

Awesome series of posts, Can any of this gear ve bought from the shop ... I recently bought ne some screwdrives n a springbar tool .. very happy woththe quality

 

 

Have a look over at http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com or http://www.goodsjapan.jp/

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Andconnorj

Need this.

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sfacciato

Wow....

It's fantastic guide :-)

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Castiel

Hello can anybody be please so kind and direct me to some good thread seller? So far I bought 0.8-1,2 mm threads from ebay however all of them seems to be flat not round shaped and therefore stitching does not look so good ;)

 

This is usually what I find in shops:

IMG_1665.jpg

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Phizzy

I currently use flat thread, you just need to make sure it's laid flat before pulling taught.

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edigital

Great guide! With the amount of money I am spending on straps, sorely tempted to give strap making a try thanks to this guide. :)

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