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THE DC REVIEW: Patek Philippe 5227 Calatrava

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_DC_

I've been wearing the new Patek 5227 rep (in rose gold) since it arrived last Thursday, and as promised I'm taking a few hours today to share my thoughts for those who care to know.

 

Before I start though, as ever, a little about the gen...

 

THE GEN...

 

5ED3FEB0-206F-4607-BDE2-631191608529_zpshninwq6d.jpg

 

Released at Baselworld 2013, the 5227 is the latest in a long line of simple, elegant dress watches known as Calatrava. The history of the Calatrava dates back to 1932, the year Patek Philippe was acquired by the Stern family who still own and run it to this day, and the release of the reference 96, the now legendary first Calatrava.

 

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(Patek Philippe ref 96. Circa 1950)

 

It's easy to see the DNA of the ref. 96 in the modern day 5227, indeed the two share the same case thickness of 9mm, though the 5227 impressively manages this with both an automatic movement and an "officers" dust cover caseback!!

 

So while we're on the subject, let's talk about that officers caseback, after all, it's the reason Mr Stern delayed the release of the watch for two years!

 

413DEBE1-53C5-461E-9F22-345FD60881B5_zpsdgrozdhm.jpg

 

Patek have done officers casebacks before (the 5153 springs to mind) but it's the first time they've "seamlessly" integrated one into such a sleek case as the 5227. Ok, so it's not exactly seamless, you can see the hinge if you look carefully, but it doesn't protrude from the case and spoil the lines, nor is it integrated into crown guards since the 5227 doesn't have any! Instead it is recessed and set into the case itself, each individual hinge being handmade to ensure perfect fit and function. And they are very pretty pieces of engineering...

 

F3B6279E-B823-4F34-8E71-6B783CF57942_zpsvi1pbjhw.jpg

 

As for the rest of the watch, the crown guards are notable for their absence, a return to the simple styling of the ref 96 (though I love the 90's-esque crown guards of the 5107 and 5127). In their place, however, the 5227 sports two sets of almost sporty looking "scoops" carved directly out of the gold case material, a styling cue that Mr Stern calls "aggressive", and given that they're not unlike something you might find on a Ferrari I think that's a fair assessment! The dial, meanwhile, also moves away from the two most recent iterations of the Calatrava, in being much larger proportionate to the case. There really is a whole lot of dial going on here, when you've been used to wearing Nautilus's and the 5107 it does take some getting used to!!

 

The 5227 is available in three case materials, yellow, white and rose gold, each with the same ivory lacquered dial and applied markers in the requisite metal, and each with a different contrasting crocodile strap.

 

882CDE43-2853-4151-AE6A-AD5FDE51504C_zps82dasknv.jpg

 

But to me, the one which appeals the most is the rose gold, with a beautiful warmth to it that matches the dial perfectly. For me an ivory dial with a white gold case just doesn't quite sit right, and yellow gold is not as wearable in the modern world.

 

756EED0B-5368-4CA2-990D-AC103414CC4F_zps86q55nwu.jpg

 

So, when it came to the rep, that's the one I plumped for. Which brings us nicely on to the watch I'm wearing...

 

THE REP...

 

Where to start?!

 

Well let's start with the best news of all, which is that the TDs lied! Why is that good news I hear you say? Well because rather than being the quoted 40mm case diameter, I've had a measure of mine and it's definitely 39mm, which is exactly the same as the gen. Well done rep factories! The case thickness, however, is 11mm, but all things considered (mainly officers caseback) that's really not a bad effort at all, so well done again rep factories!!

 

Now, when I first received this watch I really wasn't sure. I'd sold the superb ALS Datograph to fund it and was worried that perhaps I'd made a mistake. I think this was largely due to the dial size. I'm used to my 5107 at 32mm dial, but this thing is 35mm, and believe me that's a lot, as demonstrated in this side by side...

 

0303A0E8-D10A-45F8-81A5-4433B5149E06_zpst2ty8wwu.jpg

 

But the other problem, as ever, was the strap. Words cannot describe how much I hate rep straps, and how much they ruin a rep. And the only thing worse than a black rep strap is a brown rep strap!! It's the colour of my dogs poo when he's been eating too many of his dog biscuits, all warm reddish brown, when it should be a rich, deep, dark chocolate brown as in the pictures at the start of this review. And it feels like it's padded with cardboard, all stiff and unyielding. So anyone buying one of these needs to set aside another $100 or so for a decent alligator or croc strap (I've got my eye on a nice one on the Bay as soon as I get paid)!

 

However, after several days glancing at it on my wrist, and several hours spent gazing down at it in front of me while writing this review, I've come to very much love the 5227. No, it's not as small and retro as it's older sister the 5107, and yes the strap is appalling but that will be fixed. What it is, though, is pure class!!

 

Just look at it...

 

ED4B1FB9-156B-48F5-91FF-9B45348AB1C6_zpsw0r2szmh.jpg

 

...all golden and warm. Classic but with a few twists like those sculpted lugs. Even the proportions seem right here, the dial doesn't seem too big anymore it seems just right, and balanced too, the date window sat nicely over to one side rather than lingering strangely half way across one side of the dial. But best of all these proportions, to my eye, are indistinguishable from the gen. The date windows rose gold boarder is a little thick, and the datewheel font is a little embarrassing, but whose looking that close, not me and it's on my wrist!!

 

A few people (me included) were worried about the lugs, they appeared short in the photos on TD websites and even in my QC pics. But rest assured, they are long and elegant, sweeping downward to a soft point...

 

4CD91870-848A-4A50-A244-2F7BEFC2174C_zpsuoo712ci.jpg

 

50061BD0-71E4-4F6D-A392-BAD9A6ABFA32_zpssefy5jns.jpg

 

... and in profile, though not as slender as the gen, it still isn't fat by any stretch of the imagination...

 

EE18B476-FC74-4D2E-8173-11B504A4D5FF_zpsitio6r2q.jpg

 

So, to the reverse, and that officers caseback that took the geniuses at Patek Philippe two years to perfect. How have our friends in China faired?!

 

6868C8EB-C464-496E-A566-D51A95BC891D_zpsupswtagf.jpg

 

Well, in terms of its surreptitiousness it scores points. On first glance you would not think anything else was going on here, just a nicely brushed solid caseback. But then you look a little closer...

 

8B7501D3-642E-4D8D-9B02-22A411F0C4FA_zpspakvxzlf.jpg

 

... and hello, there's a hinge!!! Granted, it's not as subtle as on the gen, but what do you expect?! It is, however, nicely integrated into the curves of the case so as not to ruin the lines!!

 

Flip it open...

 

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Now this is when the veneer of quality rather rubs off. The caseback hinge is sprung so when you unclip it (done via a small lip just bellow the crown) it flips back..... to a point... the spring then gets to the point at which it is fully unsprung, and the caseback flops open a little further and proceeds to rock back and forth as you move the watch around (which you will do, since the only possible reason for flipping it open is to watch the rotor spin around). I don't know if this is just on my watch or if others have had the same experience, but I suppose it was too much to expect the flawless hand finished functionality of the gen. The factories still get credibility for managing to execute the caseback at all, and they have integrated it using the exact same method as the gen, of a plate fixed into a recess within the back of the case.

 

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All in all, once I get a respectable strap mounted on this watch, it will be a truly wonderful piece. Not perfect, no, but then what rep is?!

 

All that remains is to thank you for taking the time to read what has been a rather long review, and leave you with a few wrist shots. And yes, I think it does work with tattoos...

 

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Enjoy!!!

 

DC

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Martinjogs

Thanks DC for a splendid review!

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KarmaToBurn

Great review and pictures. Thanks DC!

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Kleen™

Excellent write-up, Dave.

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PepitoGrillo

Your review was so good that I'm seriously considering buying this watch.

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Stuvetjee

Congrats on the watch! Really great review mate! :clap: DC can rest now till there is a new PP rep :lol:

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Kleen™
Congrats on the watch! Really great review mate! :clap: DC can rest now till there is a new PP rep :lol:

 

Never a moment of rest for the passionate heart...

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Stuvetjee
Congrats on the watch! Really great review mate! :clap: DC can rest now till there is a new PP rep :lol:

 

Never a moment of rest for the passionate heart...

 

Even those need a break sometimes...

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Bonauta

Great DC, we love reviews like this ones in here.

 

Great stuff

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mrmarcus86

Nice review!! Thanks a lot...

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Fretless_Llama

Thanks for the nice review! Great pics!

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baxter

Yep great review Dave ........... and you know if you love it with that strap, a real strap is going to send it somewhere else :)

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_DC_
Yep great review Dave ........... and you know if you love it with that strap, a real strap is going to send it somewhere else :)

 

Tell me about it!! Sourcing a high quality strap is proving tricky though. None of my usual sources do 19/18, I might have to settle for 19/16 (in fairness that is the gen size) and put up with a standard buckle!

 

DC

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machiavegli

Sweet review, Dave! I sold and gave away off my old PP caltravias (all 3) mostly on the small size on the wrist so I'm sure I'd like this case size better. This one is still a bit formal for San Diego but it's a looker!

 

-Mach

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_DC_
Sweet review, Dave! I sold and gave away off my old PP caltravias (all 3) mostly on the small size on the wrist so I'm sure I'd like this case size better. This one is still a bit formal for San Diego but it's a looker!

 

-Mach

 

Shame I missed out on yours mate, which Calatrava did you have?!

 

Yeah this is a far more modern everyday wear kinda dress watch, not like the 5119 or 5120!

 

DC

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Gazzla

Great review! Enjoy your watch.

 

14ZEZxG.gif

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FuzzyCoyote

Superb write up as always DC, really enjoyed reading that. Might get myself one in the SS as I really cant pull off RG unless its a big brash AP. lol.

 

Also, humongous bonus points for use of the word 'surreptitiousness'. Top man!

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Phantomtech

Great review, thanks!

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_DC_

Thanks for all your kinda words guys. I really will have to consolidate all my reviews somewhere, I've done quite a few over the years (all of them Pateks.... maybe I need a new passion lol)!

 

DC

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Gmtaddict

Well, you must know it by now, there is no coming back!

The only way out of Rep PP, is GEN!

;-)

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_DC_
Well, you must know it by now, there is no coming back!

The only way out of Rep PP, is GEN!

;-)

 

Yeah I know, it's bad news for the bank balance! It will be a while before I can afford it, but I'm hoping to get then opportunity to manage my own branch within the company I work for this year, it's a step in the right direction!

 

DC

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bklynboy
Well, you must know it by now, there is no coming back!

The only way out of Rep PP, is GEN!

;-)

 

Yeah I know, it's bad news for the bank balance! It will be a while before I can afford it, but I'm hoping to get then opportunity to manage my own branch within the company I work for this year, it's a step in the right direction!

 

DC

Great review, good luck with the job opportunity, completely confident you deserve the chance based on your dedication and attention to detail that we all know and appreciate!

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OLDBLOKE74

This is a classy, understated piece or horological beauty - nice review and great pictures - will the buckle transfer easily and be usable ?

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OLDBLOKE74

I have this OCD thing about having the same tone of gold ( or any metal) on the tang buckle as the watch case - with replacement straps it is hard to match exactly so the rep strap buckle is important to me

 

Does anybody else have this affliction or am I the only sad old bugger ?

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_DC_
I have this OCD thing about having the same tone of gold ( or any metal) on the tang buckle as the watch case - with replacement straps it is hard to match exactly so the rep strap buckle is important to me

 

Does anybody else have this affliction or am I the only sad old bugger ?

 

No it's not just you, I'm fairly OCD about most things! The problem with the buckle on this is that it's 18mm and the lug width is 19mm, and so far I've not seen anyone offering a 19/18 strap. Most (all) 19mm straps have a 16mm buckle at best!

 

You could go bespoke through someone like Donerix, but tough I've found him exceptional for sportier straps I've not found him as good at the high end dressier stuff!!

 

The good news is, since the rose gold plating used on reps is pretty standard and nothing special, most rose gold plated buckles purchasable from eBay and the like should match!!

 

DC

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