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ShovelnTC

Removing datewheel on 2836?

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ShovelnTC

Hey guys,

 

So I'm still tossing up whether to send my old 16610LV Overseas for service as there is no-one known in Aus that I can send it to or to have a go at replacing the whole movement myself.

 

Those that know me know that I have decided that movement component disassembly/reassembly is beyond my capabilities and patience level but I'm still happy to have a go at a complete movement switch.

 

The stumbling block for me is the date-wheel which will need to be swapped due to date position.

 

Posts I read indicate a problem removing the date wheel due to the overlay covering certain screws.

 

So do I simply remove the overlay from the old movement and glue it back onto the new movement's date-wheel or do I need to remove the whole date-wheel and re-fit it to the replacement movement.

 

If so how can I get the old date-wheel off being that the overlay is covering the relevant screws?

 

Any help much appreciated.

 

Cheers, Mark.

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Raddave

Ive been able to remove the whole DW with the DWO attached , its actually alot easier than trying to line up the DWO on the new movement

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GenTLe

Well, if the DWO is well done and centered, don't mess up with its removal and reglue...

 

All you need to do is to unscrew this one indicate from the arrow.

2aepchw.jpg

 

Also, be sure (at least in the movement you're going to install it) to have the part in the square in that position (put the movement in time setting and move it forward and it will move).

 

Once removed the screw, carefully lift the screwed plate and the underlying spring. The DW will come out.

 

The difficult part is to refit everything. You'll need to put back the DW 1st, then put in place the spring (and it will tend to lift the DW, so you'll have to restart again the positioning) and finally the plate and the screw. If you'll manage to put the plate in position, keep it there with a toothpick while you start to put back the screw, and before to fasten the screw, be sure that the DW can move correctly (you can use your fingers to move it and check).

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NCRich

Well, if the DWO is well done and centered, don't mess up with its removal and reglue...

 

All you need to do is to unscrew this one indicate from the arrow.

2aepchw.jpg

 

Also, be sure (at least in the movement you're going to install it) to have the part in the square in that position (put the movement in time setting and move it forward and it will move).

 

Once removed the screw, carefully lift the screwed plate and the underlying spring. The DW will come out.

 

The difficult part is to refit everything. You'll need to put back the DW 1st, then put in place the spring (and it will tend to lift the DW, so you'll have to restart again the positioning) and finally the plate and the screw. If you'll manage to put the plate in position, keep it there with a toothpick while you start to put back the screw, and before to fasten the screw, be sure that the DW can move correctly (you can use your fingers to move it and check).

 

You know a real buddy would make a tutorial for me so I could do this without a learning curve. :lol:

 

Good info, we have a really good tutorial for the 2813 DW swap. An ETA one would be good.

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ShovelnTC

Ive been able to remove the whole DW with the DWO attached , its actually alot easier than trying to line up the DWO on the new maovement

 

Cheers mate that was what I was hoping to hear.

 

Well, if the DWO is well done and centered, don't mess up with its removal and reglue...

 

All you need to do is to unscrew this one indicate from the arrow.

2aepchw.jpg

 

Also, be sure (at least in the movement you're going to install it) to have the part in the square in that position (put the movement in time setting and move it forward and it will move).

 

Once removed the screw, carefully lift the screwed plate and the underlying spring. The DW will come out.

 

The difficult part is to refit everything. You'll need to put back the DW 1st, then put in place the spring (and it will tend to lift the DW, so you'll have to restart again the positioning) and finally the plate and the screw. If you'll manage to put the plate in position, keep it there with a toothpick while you start to put back the screw, and before to fasten the screw, be sure that the DW can move correctly (you can use your fingers to move it and check).

 

Thanks so much, this together with what Ive read so far may make it easy (says with fingers crossed).

 

So I'll get a new movement ordered and lets hope it won't be another horror story :giggle:

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GenTLe

This together with what Ive read so far may make it easy (says with fingers crossed).

 

So I'll get a new movement ordered and lets hope it won't be another horror story :giggle:

 

It will not be easy :) The refitting part took me 1h the 1st time. All the time the spring was lifting, moving, when it was IN then was coming out as soon as the upper plate was going to be fitted...

 

One of the most common way to fuckup a movement is to have it not well placed into the movement holder (or having a bad movement holder). When you push the thing if the movement lose the grip on the holder it's waaaaay too easy to damage something. So take specific care to that :)

 

You know a real buddy would make a tutorial for me so I could do this without a learning curve. :lol:

 

No need for a tutorial :) All is written there. It's not difficult on standard DW, the problem with the DWO ones is that you can't see how the spring has engaged and that the upper plate should fit between the DWO and the DW teeth but you're blind on that spot so it requires a LOT of patience and tries.

 

Also someone suggested this way (read: SSteel) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7S0R7Gi75fQ BUT I think that in that way it's easy to damage the DW teeth or the spring and so I'd not suggest it.

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gavmeister

I have taken this all in.......thanks for the learning points!

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ShovelnTC

I have taken this all in.......thanks for the learning points!

 

So have I and now I'm not so confident :(

 

I think my most worn Sub is going to end up languishing in the watchbox, cast aside due to an unserviced movement.

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NCRich

I want to see the spring being replaced and it put together. :lol: It is actually really easy on the 2813 because you put the spring back in after you screw everything together.

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10:10 Watch Repair

 

All you need to do is to unscrew this one indicate from the arrow.

 

Or not. Just put a little pressure on the opposite side of the DW or a little lift next to the spring. As the DW advances it will pop right out.

I want to see the spring being replaced and it put together. :lol: It is actually really easy on the 2813 because you put the spring back in after you screw everything together.

Dental picks.

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TRANSPORTER

Not to upset the post here but the pictures of the 2836 are missing one of the parts

BBE7E008-728A-4B78-BCE3-59D45960D8A8_zpskrngashq.jpeg

 

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10:10 Watch Repair

Not to upset the post here but the pictures of the 2836 are missing one of the parts

 

The overlay is covering the spring. That's why it's hard to put back on with the overlay in place.

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GenTLe

Not to upset the post here but the pictures of the 2836 are missing one of the parts

BBE7E008-728A-4B78-BCE3-59D45960D8A8_zpskrngashq.jpeg

 

This is an Hangzhou 6460 (the GMT version of the 2836) just portrayed without the central GMT big wheel.

The hour plate of the pic of the 2836 is missing, true, but it's not related to the topic ;)

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NCRich

Interesting topic.

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