sconehead 5 Posted July 15, 2009 Here’s a quick tuto on how to de-case your Pam for any of you out there who aren’t sure how to do it... Here’s a selection of tools you may find useful, when I do any work on my watches, I always do it over a micro-fibre cloth. If you drop any small parts it has the knack of catching them instead of them bouncing into oblivion off a hard surface. Removing the strap using a mobile phone precision screwdriver set off the bay, good quality at a cheap price, ideal for screws too big for jewellers screwdrivers. I make a habit of putting the bracelet/strap screws back onto the watch head so I can’t misplace them. Lift up the cg lever and remove the two screws, Notice in this pic the crown just pulled out of the movement, this shouldn’t happen at this stage and is the reason why I’m working on the watch, Next, remove the caseback. I’m using an ‘Horb’ it’s basically a rubber ball that you press firmly against the caseback and twist, works everytime, This is the screw that should hold/release the crown stem. You only need to turn it approx. 2 turns to release the stem. (DO NOT COMPLETELY UNSCREW IT!!!) Remove the two movement holder screws and tabs, I find a small piece of rodico on the end of a toothpick is an invaluable tool for picking up or positioning the screws/tabs, Place a piece of greaseproof paper over the movement, Turn the watch over whilst holding the paper in position to support the movement, Finally, replace the caseback finger tight onto the watch head and put the crown back in the tube to prevent dust etc getting on the inside of the watch/crystal. Place the movement in a movement vice/holder, taking care to position it carefully so as not to foul/damage the balance spring and cover with a bowl or put in a suitable container, again to prevent dust/debris getting into the movement. Remember, I'm self taught working on watches but these methods work for me. If the more knowledgeable members think I'm doing anything incorrectly, let me know and I'll edit this post accordingly... Next mini-tuto, removing the dial/handset and replacing a sheared set lever screw... Cheers, Bobby... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
houndoggie 58 Posted July 15, 2009 Nice tutorial. I did this twice today.. Once to replace the hands on my calistyle homage and then to take it apart to get the dust I left on inside of the crystal off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted July 15, 2009 I know/feel your pain ...still practice makes perfect and often the best way to learn is by mistakes... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alphakazi 0 Posted July 15, 2009 nice work scone I lost quite a bit of motivation on my last repair - my gf's LV (a diamond marker fell off) - but uh... yea, the crystal is domed and I used the wrong die I'll post pics of my watchmaker endeavors soon suffice it to say, I need to replace the crystal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luthier 1 Posted July 15, 2009 Scone, great, thanks!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RolexAddict 1 Posted July 17, 2009 nice job, I had a Pam (already re-sold) with the same movement, but the movement was hold in the case only with 2 screws -no tabs- with a large head. The head of the screws was in contact with the case. To extract the movement I had to screw a little the screws, then to make a rotation to align these screws head with 2 notches on the case Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 79 Posted July 17, 2009 Great post, Scone! Here, have a sticky! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alphakazi 0 Posted July 27, 2009 nice job, I had a Pam (already re-sold) with the same movement, but the movement was hold in the case only with 2 screws -no tabs- with a large head. The head of the screws was in contact with the case. To extract the movement I had to screw a little the screws, then to make a rotation to align these screws head with 2 notches on the case love the avi - sleeping behind a 747 cockpit... why not Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pollux1 3 Posted July 27, 2009 Bloody good write up mate, nicely photographed too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drhulee 0 Posted November 20, 2009 Just came across this, wish I had ages ago One question, well request. Next time you're working on a 6497 or A7750, could you take some close-ups of where the movement holder is pressing against the movement. I'm never quite sure of which grooves to use, and which areas (beside avoiding the balance wheel) on the movement to close the vice on. So I'm trying to get various members techniques documented. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicnjon 0 Posted November 15, 2010 I have a query regarding the crown: Can the crown stem be detached from the crown? I intend to replace the crown on my PAM 111 Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverspeed 10 Posted November 15, 2010 I have a query regarding the crown:Can the crown stem be detached from the crown? I intend to replace the crown on my PAM 111 Thanks Yes if you hold the stem with pliers (not on the stem threads!) you can unscrew the crown from the stem. Sometimes the crown is glued on to the stem....heating the stem/crown with a lighter will soften the glue. Be sure to measure the thread lenght before putting on the new crown...that way it will be easier to get the right lenght for the new crown Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted November 15, 2010 Great thread I will be referring to this shortly I think! lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nicnjon 0 Posted November 23, 2010 I have a query regarding the crown:Can the crown stem be detached from the crown? I intend to replace the crown on my PAM 111 Thanks Yes if you hold the stem with pliers (not on the stem threads!) you can unscrew the crown from the stem. Sometimes the crown is glued on to the stem....heating the stem/crown with a lighter will soften the glue. Be sure to measure the thread lenght before putting on the new crown...that way it will be easier to get the right lenght for the new crown Thanks very much ! appreciate that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedzmaster 0 Posted November 23, 2010 Did I miss something? There are 2 different movements shown. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted November 23, 2010 Did I miss something? There are 2 different movements shown. Correct, the other movement was the donor for a sheared set lever... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted December 22, 2010 Ok, I need to do this soon... I need to transplant an ebay cheapy (with no proper CG) into a Jackson case (with proper CG and pressure-fit crown). My question is this... How long do you need to make the new stem for the pressure-fit crown? The current one does not press in at all, so surely the new crown that can press in a bit to seal it properly will force the stem 'into' the movement?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
level z 0 Posted June 6, 2011 IMHO you should put back the stem into the movement to prevent the rachet gear from dropping off ... i m a noob too ... i may be wrong ... peace ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Corv99 2 Posted July 7, 2012 Yay!! thanks Mate, book marked now! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolpan 0 Posted January 15, 2013 thank you very much for this thread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
binder 0 Posted February 24, 2013 Thanks for the pics and writeup Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pure B 0 Posted February 19, 2015 Pics are deleted from Photobucket Share this post Link to post Share on other sites