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GenTLe

HOW-TO reposition the Noob sub-C ceramic insert to line-up with 12 o' clock

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GenTLe

Been there, done that. Leaving this for those that have the same problem and don't know how to proceed.

 

Ok, so my brand new 11610 Noob V5 arrived with this problem (not my pic and old non ceramic model, but same situation):

DSCF0016.jpg

 

As you can see the bezel insert is misaligned and the clicks of the bezel just aren't enough to put it back in its correct position.

 

So what?

Well you need to remove the bezel, then remove the bezel insert and refit it in the right position.

 

This is how I proceeded.

 

1) BEZEL REMOVAL (note: this is valid for Noob Sub-C V5, I don't know if very old versions of the Noob or if the BP one is made differently)

I used this object (that I had sharpened some time ago)

4932photo1__67935.1410319602.500.500.jpg

 

following this exact method:

 

In my view the best place to put the tape and use the knife is at 5 or at 11 o' clock due to the position of the bezel springs.

 

So here the result:

4d1a8a40360bd4001515c80e9dd615a0.jpg

 

Take care now: those little springs and their bits on the top are bitches... Carefully take them out and put them on a side. Note that the one at 7 is different (pic from dbane883 from rwg.cc)

31c9c71df4ecb59acd72e81f7592c43d.jpg

 

Clean the case now, while you have access to under the bezel.

 

 

 

 

2) INSERT REMOVAL

I put the removed bezel into the oven at 50/60°C (120°F) and let it heat up for 20 minutes, so that the glue that keep the insert in place got a bit softer.

Then I started delicately to pass a surgery scalpel between the bezel and the insert, this way:

6b9721ece5e952b63d8b27107b820684.jpg

 

After 3/4 minutes, pushing a bit more at every passage, the insert detached (you can feel when the scalpel gets into the glue):

db8283a15ad1e96f3207e8452dceb8e9.jpg

 

 

As you can see both insert and bezel are well dirty of glue. That must be removed!

So go on with the scalper or with a screwdriver to remove the biggest part of that glue. Then I used a little rag with some nitro thinner to finish the process. NOTE: do NOT let the thinner to go over the bezel numbers or it will melt the paint that fills them!!!!

 

Cleaned parts:

5c23f4bd1765b8f16522410f579e01da.jpg

 

 

At this point I placed a tiny amount of cyanoacrylate glue on the back of the pearl. This way I'm pretty sure it will never falls from the bezel.

 

3) REFIT THE BEZEL AND BEZEL INSERT

Now as 1st thing you need to put back the bezel on the watch head. Again the movie at the beginning of this post is fine (but the noob doesn't have that plastic ring that you see in the movie at 1:08, so one thing less to take care).

Of course remember to put back the springs and the other bits.

The bit at 7 o' clock has only one way to enter in its slot, so take a bit more care.

I'd also take the opportunity to put a very tiny amount of grease on the bezel grooves, the ones that make it to click. I used an high pressure grease. It will help the spring loaded bits at 1-4-7-10 to worn less with the bezel rotation.

 

Once the bezel is back in place, rotate it to check that it is working fine.

 

Finally you need to put back the insert with a system that is able to keep it in place.

 

There are various opinions about this part. Some guys used bi-adhesive tape, some used hypo cement, some epoxy glue...

Personally I was searching something that permitted me to:

- remove again the insert in the future if needed (so not a too strong glue -> epoxy and hypo cement discarded)

- give me the possibility to move the insert a bit when placed back to perfectly align it (bi-adhesive tape discarded)

 

So in the end I used a contact adhesive without allowing it to dry as specified into the instructions: with a toothpick I put a little amount of this glue at 1.5, at 4.5, at 7.5 and at 10.5, and then I placed back the insert (you need to press it a bit to make it enter fully in the bezel).

 

Being the glue still soft I then aligned perfectly the insert (also moving a bit the bezel to double check the status), and TA-DA:

53d2da077042beedcb1c1b1898436b13.jpg

 

 

Hope you enjoyed!

 

GenTLe

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nunu78

nice tutorial, thanks mate

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Kcore

Excellent how to!!! :clap: :clap: :clap:

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jmshen

Awesome. A very doable fix for a common sub problem!

 

GenTLe, would you say this is also the proper method for other diver bezels? Or should we be careful because others made need a different approach?

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GenTLe

 

 

GenTLe, would you say this is also the proper method for other diver bezels? Or should we be careful because others made need a different approach?

 

Can't really answer this... I did my research but for this model only :)

Maybe others require a bezel removal tool like this:

rem07.117%20horotect%20bezel%20remover.jpg

 

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Cubic Hare

Thank you Alex. Good information here.

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ElvisFreak

dang, i can your insert is still misaligned!

 

do it again!

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emameme

Thanks mate!! i wanna try this on my GMT II!!

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bigmak

Brilliant! i'll keep this for when I pick up the v6! (if it isn't perf)

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emameme

have u the possibility (in the future) to do it on a GMT II 116710 ?

Because I wanna do it on mine but I don't find any instruction of how is the assembly method of the bezel. (i'm scared to broke something)

Thanks

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GenTLe
have u the possibility (in the future) to do it on a GMT II 116710 ?

Because I wanna do it on mine but I don't find any instruction of how is the assembly method of the bezel. (i'm scared to broke something)

Thanks

Sorry mate, but I don't feel confident to practice (because it will be so) on other people watches...

If none can tell you how to handle the gmt bezel here, try asking on the other Rwg: it is plenty of modders there and probably they can give you some hint :)

 

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N.Rico
im%20Not%20Worthy.gif

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myaz

Great write-up with superb pics. THX for taking the time to put it together.

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2hot2trot

Awesome review mate. Thanks for the info. Really appreciated.

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BadPickle

Put it in the oven??? :lmao: no way Gordon Ramsey :lmao2:

 

 

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GenTLe

Put it in the oven??? :lmao: no way Gordon Ramsey :lmao2:

 

Best way to gradually heat it :)

I much prefer this respect to use a 30W welder that can create "hot spots" and eventually crack the ceramic due to the tensions ;)

 

PS: my poor oven has been used even to treat my motorcycle parts (painted with a special enamel that crystallize over 200°C) :D

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jmshen

Put it in the oven??? :lmao: no way Gordon Ramsey :lmao2:

 

Best way to gradually heat it :)

I much prefer this respect to use a 30W welder that can create "hot spots" and eventually crack the ceramic due to the tensions ;)

 

PS: my poor oven has been used even to treat my motorcycle parts (painted with a special enamel that crystallize over 200°C) :D

 

You ever notice that your pies come out tasting ... metal-ly?

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BadPickle

Contact adhesive??? This thread gets more bizarre... They use contact adhesive to laminate kitchen work tops, that shit never comes off :lmao2:

 

Oh! I wouldn't remove the bezel either, asking for trouble there, better to take out the movement and pop the crystal surely?? Bezels are temperamental at best, soooo easy to bend, nobody likes a bent bezel. :facepalm:

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GenTLe
Contact adhesive??? This thread gets more bizarre... They use contact adhesive to laminate kitchen work tops, that shit never comes off :lmao2:

 

Oh! I wouldn't remove the bezel either, asking for trouble there, better to take out the movement and pop the crystal surely?? Bezels are temperamental at best, soooo easy to bend, nobody likes a bent bezel. :facepalm:

Contact adhesive: depends how you use it. Of course if you put it on both surface and let the solvent to evaporate then it is difficult to remove. But used in another way and not to much it is not that strong.

And the Noob bezel has enough steel to bend the knife, not itself :)

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Genius

Cheers Alex! Good tutorial hopefully I never need it but glad to have it if I do

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