Ginault 0 Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) Hi, I am Charles. I collect fine Swiss-made timepieces, and also I am a watchmaker by passion. I’ve been working as an industrial designer for the past 12 years, and I started learning about watchmaking 6 years ago as a hobby. What can I say, gears in motion just has its own fascinating quality. During the years, most of my learning and work focused on the movement part of the watch as the making of a watch exteriors posses no challenge to a veteran industrial designer. However, one shocking news changed all that. It was a sad day for most avid watch fans when Rolex announced the discontinuation of their production of their dacade old tradition, the Rolex Submariner 16610. The Rolex Submariner is a modern horological marvel. Its design, water proof character, and functionality appeals to professionals at large. The Rolex Submariner Date 16610, in my point of view, is the most sophisticated in design from the line's incarnation in 1945. I’ve decided to take on a project; to build a homage Submariner 16610 which I call the Base Module 1, based on my experience, resources, and understanding of the fine Swiss time piece in honor of this century old design. In the following days, I will summarize and convert my project log, which was hand written, into digital form and update it here on a Watchmaking blog and the forum for every Rolex fans to share. Rolex Submariner Homage Project (Part 1) Journal Date 03/26/2010 to 04/04/2010 Upon learning the shocking news and the decision to make my own homage Sub 16610 I went to my local watch store and ordered 2 Subs. V serial Sub 16610 and 16610LV. You ask me if it’s worth it? It is worth every penny for this beautiful engineering marvel. The oyster casing is a perfect balance between functionality and showmanship. The first step of making the Submariner 16610 homage is to come up with some rough drafts. Making the scatch based on the original 16610 spec is no problem at all. Although my strong suit is in industrial design, I’ve also taken the liberty of coming up with a few variation sketch based on the original casing. Who knows, maybe one day these designs will come to life. After a few days of careful consideration, I’ve decided to make the first 16610 homage proto type based on the original Sub 16610’s design without any added flavor. After all, this is a tribute to the tradition. Rolex Submariner Homage Project (Part 2) After deciding on the design from the sketches the next step was to turn the hand drawn drafts into computerized design drafts. This steps involves some detailed measurement of the original Rolex oyster spec. While doing so, it reminded me again the refined and detailed workmanship that Rolex puts into its creation. There are many methods of turning a design sketch into a physical object. One common way is to create a semi-completed mold and refine the body-block into the correct spec. The upside for is that it’s speedy. However, often times the finished products are not as true to spec, like many fake or replica watches. I’ve chosen to proceed this project the same way as how Rolex have traditionally manufactured their timepieces. I’ve decided to machine a raw mold into the spec desired line by line, microns by microns. Even though, it is a process that is costly and requires long operation hours, sometimes a true work of art and precision lies in the dedication one is willing to put in. After all, this is a tribute to one of the greatest time piece ever made. Rolex Submariner Homage Project (Part 3) The selection of the stainless steel grade is also crucial. Let me first explain how stainless steel differs from other alloy. All stainless steel are iron-based alloys that contain a minimum of around 10.5% Chromium. The Chromium in the alloy forms a self-healing protective clear oxide layer. This oxide layer gives stainless steel their corrosion resistance. The dilemma is between 904L or 316L Rolex uses 904L for its superior resistance to corrosion because 904L grades high in Chromium, Molybdenum and Nickel (most resistant to corrosion). Also, the addition of copper gives 904L greatly improved resistance to strong reducing acids, particularly sulphuric acid. 316L the low carbon version of 316 is the standard molybdenum-bearing grade. The molybdenum gives 316L an outstanding overall corrosion and sensitization resistant properties as well. However, the added benefit 316L is it’s toughness compare to 904L. The harder property of 316L makes it more shock resistant and less stretchable. The austenitic structure provides this grade excellent toughness, even down to cryogenic temperatures. Also one other concern which does not pertain me is that 904L’s nickel concentration has been reported to cause allergic reaction. I found that most major watch companies applies 316L for the over all advantages. With my experience in the industry I also believe 316L is actually a more well rounded choice. Hence I shall go along with the wisdom of the collective on this one. Rolex Submariner Homage Project (Part 4) After an hours of CNC processing the raw mold is starting to take its shape. The next step is to figure out the center of the watch case in order to conduct even more precise cutting. Centering a semi-completed mold is very important but is a tricky task. In the old days master mold makers utilized their experience and craftsmanship to achieve this. But thanks to modern innovation, a computer guided laser tool can help facilitate this step with ease and precision. When centered, the following precision cutting will become crucial. From this point on, any mistake will render the mold useless (in my opinion). The first polish is conducted after another hour of CNC cutting. Polishing the unfinished mold in between each process greatly increases accuracy to the designated spec. Although time consuming, it is a imminent step I personally believe as the key to perfection. Drilling and threading the crown hole was also another interesting and yet important process. A leveled crown hole is one of the most important factor which determines the stability of the movement when rested in the case. In order to drill a straight hole, the casing has to be perfectly centered and leveled. I’ve noticed even in Rolex watches, sometimes the crown hole were not done correctly. After the completion of the crown hole and some more hours of cutting and polishing, the finished casing is done. I’ve taken some measurement against the original spec to ensure the accuracy and I am really satisfied. Before I completed the final polish, I am again faced with another dilemma on weather to engrave the casing in between the lugs with my own serial, product ID and name. Or should I just leave it blank. I’ve decided just like Rolex and other great makes, great work needs the maker’s mark to represent the pride, honor, and quality,. Hence, I decided to put down my last name Ginualt as the mark and the serial number 0001 as the first Rolex homage made by me. Even though, this is a summary of my daily log and there are many long and repetitive processes omitted in writing, the task of making a perfect homage 16610 is arduous. Edited March 4, 2011 by Ginault Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThinkBachs 1 Posted February 28, 2011 First of all, you are amazing. I first fell in love with your work when I saw this God knows how long ago... This blows any custom Rolex I have seen out of the water, hands down, no contest. Companies like Bamford and Project-X can't even come close to making something this beautiful. My hope is that you'll offer to do some custom work, in addition to your complete watches. Also, as long as you're doing bezel inserts like this one... it seems to me that you could set your CNC to pump out a handful more- I would purchase a watch just to have that bezel insert. With the price and difficulty of acquiring replacement DeepSea bezel inserts, if you made one that fit the DSSD that looks like the photo above, I have no doubt that you could do very well selling them to both gen and rep owners. If you need a watch to practice on, just let me know and I'll send it to you, with an extra insert for comparison. I'm glad to see you here and working on new projects. -Andrew Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 84 Posted February 28, 2011 Welcome Ginault! Looking forward to reading your project log Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pentax 0 Posted February 28, 2011 Welcome Pls bring your passion to our Collection and empty our pockets ;-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wiz 0 Posted February 28, 2011 Awesome blog and project, glad to have you around! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PGL 0 Posted February 28, 2011 Welcome Ginautl! I admire people who are able to make these things... Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
solkryssare 109 Posted February 28, 2011 Hey mate. Sweet work and thank you for the FB add Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pentax 0 Posted February 28, 2011 Ginault What is your Connection to Allan Kuefer? or http://www.allankuefer.com/rolex-submarine...h-case-kit.html Thanks Pentax Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
solkryssare 109 Posted February 28, 2011 Do you do custom work as well? If I can provide a 3d model for what I need done? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alistairw 0 Posted February 28, 2011 Welcome Ginaut, I am really looking forward to seeing more of your work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginault 0 Posted March 1, 2011 @Andrew: Thanks! I'll work towards it. @Greg: Thank you for accepting me! Appreciate it. @Pentax: Mr. Kuefer had some financial issues. The very first time I step into his factory, I know it is capable of making quality pieces. So I took the chance buy out the shares. @wiz: Thanks! @PGL: Thanks! @solkryssare: It's my honor. Personalization is one service I want to provide to the community! I believe every watch should have its own character, like its owner. @alistairw: Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThinkBachs 1 Posted March 1, 2011 You Sir, are going to have more friends than you know what to do with! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThinkBachs 1 Posted March 1, 2011 I have one thought on these projects (at this moment anyway). Your Dials. I would consider giving the date window a thicker/deeper effect. Something like the DSSD... In my mind at least, it gives the watch a more substantial impression. Just a thought... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThinkBachs 1 Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) Vs this Ps Edited March 1, 2011 by ThinkBachs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pentax 0 Posted March 1, 2011 do you need any partners or investors?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RacingSnake 2 Posted March 1, 2011 Welcome Charles... amazing post. Looking forward to following this one. Your work looks amazing. Very keen to see what you offer! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolfreddy 0 Posted March 2, 2011 Very Very Nice. I have to say Im amazed and intrigued to see what your going to come up with. If you need any investments or funding let me know:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teamroper24 0 Posted March 2, 2011 Following your work, and reading about all the aspects of this work is gonna be something I truly look forward to. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG 41 Posted March 2, 2011 Welcome, this is fantastic!!!!! Wow, wow, wow. We are lucky to have you here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dragonscape 0 Posted March 3, 2011 The chance to watch a watch come to life.....fantastic Look forward to following this thread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ginault 0 Posted March 4, 2011 @Andrew: Thanks for spreading the words for me. Appreciate it. About the Date window, you pointed out a very important factor that made the dial with "soul". @Pentax: Thanks, we're doing fine here. You can support the company by buying a lot of our watches. @RacingSnake: It's my honor. I'm glad I found this forum. @coolfreddy: Thank you guys! I'll keep the progress updated here. Charles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KeNnY 29 Posted March 4, 2011 Ginault AMAZING !!!! Glad to have you here ! PS: Will you be also able to source us some unavailable watch parts ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tissotman 0 Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) First of all, you are amazing. I first fell in love with your work when I saw this God knows how long ago... This blows any custom Rolex I have seen out of the water, hands down, no contest. Companies like Bamford and Project-X can't even come close to making something this beautiful. My hope is that you'll offer to do some custom work, in addition to your complete watches. Also, as long as you're doing bezel inserts like this one... it seems to me that you could set your CNC to pump out a handful more- I would purchase a watch just to have that bezel insert. With the price and difficulty of acquiring replacement DeepSea bezel inserts, if you made one that fit the DSSD that looks like the photo above, I have no doubt that you could do very well selling them to both gen and rep owners. If you need a watch to practice on, just let me know and I'll send it to you, with an extra insert for comparison. I'm glad to see you here and working on new projects. -Andrew simply stunning Edited March 10, 2011 by tissotman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
