GenTLe 1,509 Posted October 31, 2016 Gentle I had heard that you no longer needed to drill and tap for that Athaya crown. I'm not sure that crown bothers me enough to change. Maybe later. A vintage watch is never finished. LOL, actually I bought them in the past to fix (read: destroy) the very first Rolex rep I worked on (2,5 years ago probably). Not going to sell them as I may still need them in the future BUT, if you need them and can't find them, I may bought them for you and send them you. If I remember right the 2.75mm drill bit (cobalt one) was like 2€ and the tap was something like 12€ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAJ75 922 Posted October 31, 2016 Superb work on this thread Rich. As observed earlier you are a real credit/asset to this community. The time taken to put together let alone skills shared are really to be applauded. It's great to see someone with so much passion taking such an active part in the community. All power to you mate & hope your enthusiasm doesn't diminish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haltec 0 Posted October 31, 2016 Beautiful work. Thnx for the tutorial. One question though.. No HEV? Should it be? Kind regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,751 Posted October 31, 2016 Beautiful work. Thnx for the tutorial. One question though.. No HEV? Should it be? Kind regards The HEV can be seen in the pics. This model had a HEV. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haltec 0 Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) I skipped this one (smartphone hmpf) but I notice this: ???! Edited October 31, 2016 by Haltec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haltec 0 Posted October 31, 2016 Ok. It's completely wrong watch LOL Mistery solved. And HEV is just cosmetic since no hole is visible from case inside. Kind regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,751 Posted October 31, 2016 I skipped this one (smartphone hmpf) but I notice this: ???! You are looking at an example of drilling technique that it not part of the tutorial. I was using the 6538 to answer a question I was asked (see quote) as to how I round out the lug holes. It is a different watch entirely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Stubbs 0 Posted October 31, 2016 Congratulations on this excellent tutorial Rich. It's well planned, illustrated and executed. Sure to be an inspiration and a reference! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
childishthing 1 Posted October 31, 2016 This was fun to watch! Thanks for sharing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jakethemouse 0 Posted November 1, 2016 You sir! are a legend!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foxindebox 465 Posted January 5, 2017 Great tutorial mate! Mine is on the way and I plan to do the same mods (bit worried about the casework though ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GenTLe 1,509 Posted January 5, 2017 Great tutorial mate! Mine is on the way and I plan to do the same mods (bit worried about the casework though ) Actually having seen the new BP vintage ones from Trusty I'm not sure which one (BP vs JKF) should be the best one for modding. BP ones have very good crown guards, see here: http://www.trustytimezone.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=457&products_id=16363 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,751 Posted January 5, 2017 Great tutorial mate! Mine is on the way and I plan to do the same mods (bit worried about the casework though ) Actually having seen the new BP vintage ones from Trusty I'm not sure which one (BP vs JKF) should be the best one for modding. BP ones have very good crown guards, see here: http://www.trustytim...oducts_id=16363 According to Slay the BP has a glued in crown/tube and modding the CGs is much more difficult for a noobie modder. He says go with JKG. YMMV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GenTLe 1,509 Posted January 5, 2017 Great tutorial mate! Mine is on the way and I plan to do the same mods (bit worried about the casework though ) Actually having seen the new BP vintage ones from Trusty I'm not sure which one (BP vs JKF) should be the best one for modding. BP ones have very good crown guards, see here: http://www.trustytim...oducts_id=16363 According to Slay the BP has a glued in crown/tube and modding the CGs is much more difficult for a noobie modder. He says go with JKG. YMMV Good to know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIG GRUNDY 6 Posted January 5, 2017 This is great, following/bookmarked now.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nikosaldente 630 Posted April 28, 2017 Definitely following this thread! Excellent mod and tutorial! Well done Rich! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Robin195959 2 Posted May 31, 2017 Great tutorial and work mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
watchsean7 0 Posted October 5, 2017 Rich, I just want to say thanks from all of us. Great work and inspiration. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
enkebabtack 0 Posted November 21, 2017 Great build and amazingly well documented! What is your opinion on the accuracy of the cartel case? How does it hold up ( after modification ) versus other cases? ( yuki/phong/etc) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo82 1,397 Posted November 21, 2017 Ok, I'm a fan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Callmeatticus 0 Posted March 23, 2018 Super good stuff! Thanks for this. I have a question, there was not gasket on your retaining ring to water seal the plexi. Is this normal? My JK 1680 has an o ring. Also, looks like your COMEX has the same movement I have. Any way to mount a gen spec dial to this? Much much appreciated!! Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hanski 40 Posted May 11, 2018 On 10/30/2016 at 17:07, NCRich said: Lets finish this up. First lets do the insert. You need an appropriate cement add some way to secure it till it dries. I do this. NCRich, great tutorial! Very helpful in my endeavors to learn modding! Question for you, do you always glue the insert to the bezel? I have a Clarks assembly (insert, bezel, tension, and retaining ring) that snaps all together very nicely. That said, the insert can be popped off the bezel by hand without any tools. Would you recommend gluing the insert anyways? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,751 Posted May 11, 2018 7 minutes ago, mzinski said: NCRich, great tutorial! Very helpful in my endeavors to learn modding! Question for you, do you always glue the insert to the bezel? I have a Clarks assembly (insert, bezel, tension, and retaining ring) that snaps all together very nicely. That said, the insert can be popped off the bezel by hand without any tools. Would you recommend gluing the insert anyways? Thanks! I actually use a few pieces of double stick tape now. Just as insurance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J!m 289 Posted June 23, 2018 Nice tutorial. The aftermarket bezels leave a lot to be desired. Even the “expensive “ ones. The insert should snap into a significant groove in the bezel ring. And once in, the bezel edge should be “proud” of the insert. 99% of the ones I see, the insert is flush with the bezel ring. These have to be glued, especially if you have a gen insert you don’t want to loose. One of my first reps was a 5517 long before I joined any forum. I lost a couple WO990 inserts and they are not free... i use a big press for crystal retainer rings (those should be seriously tight) and my old crystal press I only use for popping out inserts from gen bezels. ITT gets them out (and in) without damage. That press would break with a gen watch trying to press a retainer ring on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dizzy 0 Posted January 4, 2019 Good tutorial. Just wanted to add that the proper tap for the Rolex 702/703 tube is M3x0.35. Dizzy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites