TRANSPORTER 1 Posted January 24, 2017 Mate, I should have a complete set of photos of stripping this movement, which will help you hugely in re assembly, also look on a site/blog called adventures in amateur watch fettling, he,s done an eta on there and his pictures are awesome, ill try and find my photos and send them to you ok Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted January 24, 2017 http://www.tztoolshop.com/page30.html If you can follow that bro there's the service schedule. Thank you. This exploded diagram is very useful! Mate, I should have a complete set of photos of stripping this movement, which will help you hugely in re assembly, also look on a site/blog called adventures in amateur watch fettling, he,s done an eta on there and his pictures are awesome, ill try and find my photos and send them to you ok Thank you. No rush if you are strapped for time, whenever you can I'd really appreciate it. I have made a blunder and kicking myself over it. Rounded the thread on the screw 415 in the bridge 105 in the diagram below. This one is a reverse thread as you know and i forced it the other way ... nooooooo ... now screw won't come out either way!!! I have tinkered with many things before and should have remembered the golden rule of not forcing it and stopped immediately when it wasn't moving in the usual direction. Now I'm wondering if a new bridge and accompanying parts would be required or I can get away with refitting this ... hmmm. guys - one question re the rotor. Should this be rotating easily when fitted? This one is not very free rotating as I've seen in other watches. Maybe the bearing (part 1497) is shot on this, or bone dry being this old. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 4, 2017 nearly there ... after a few hair pulling moments .. gosh, back is killing as well. long screw to hold the spring in keyless caused a nightmare .... it came out the other end and wouldn't allow the balance to be fitted evenly ... was brain-fried by then so left and now its sorted ... it's been 10+hrs that it's been running in this state after a charge of 2-3 turns at most. Only changed the mainspring as I though that 17yrs old spring should be changed just to rule it out, £8! Rest all cleaned - lighter fluid and 100% isopropyl rinses - didn't clean the hair spring though and oils/greases as per charts. Taking a day or so break from this as my back is screaming ... need to open the 2 main jewels and lube them as well. Getting it back to this state and having it run for so many hours already is very exciting .. wohooo ... steep learning curve though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIG GRUNDY 6 Posted February 4, 2017 Great tutorial...Nice write up. Hope I can get to that point some day, or find enough time to do so. Keep posting for us all... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 5, 2017 It's done ... well ... kinda for now ... need a new gasket for case .. will also be looking to change the dial, hands and bezel as soon as I can find replacements (next watch order) ... will be going green fingers crossed .. seems to be running alright ... maybe a bit faster now as opposed to being a lot slower before Thank you everyone for your help and encouragements ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,748 Posted February 5, 2017 Congratulations! A great read and I'm happy you got some new skilz. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GenTLe 1,501 Posted February 5, 2017 Get the updated ETA charts on ETA site, I posted a thread a couple of weeks ago with the instructions in the "watch repair" section of the forum Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 7, 2017 Date change is a bit clunky/sticky, possibly due to the overlay and the dial in contact with each other. Need to look in to that. It clicks/changes smooth with the dial off. Will have to remove and ask you guys which way the spacer under the dial should be. I've given it a break for now as removing crown and putting it back to click in place was a nightmare as it would dislodge the second inner wheel from the spring resulting in more work. That happened around six times. Any pointers? Otherwise the movement is running very well and keeping very good time against the computer clock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foxindebox 464 Posted February 7, 2017 The only tips for the crown removal i can think of are are to use a screwdriver (1.2 or 1.4mm if I remember rightly) that is as wide as the groove it locates into, to push the release pin down (won't go down far enough to dislodge the bolt). Make sure the stem is pushed in to the 1st setting and also, make sure that the setting lever isn't bent and not holding the bolt in place. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 7, 2017 The only tips for the crown removal i can think of are are to use a screwdriver (1.2 or 1.4mm if I remember rightly) that is as wide as the groove it locates into, to push the release pin down (won't go down far enough to dislodge the bolt). Make sure the stem is pushed in to the 1st setting and also, make sure that the setting lever isn't bent and not holding the bolt in place. Good luck Thank you. I'll try the screwdriver method next, good suggestion that. After a bit of trial and error, the only way to hold (so far) is pulling the brown out to 3rd click (watch stopped) and then crown removed. Re-inserting the stem then seems to have worked best so far for me. Kinda tired of rebuilding the keyless soooooo many times ... it's exhausting :( Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIG GRUNDY 6 Posted February 7, 2017 Great job...gives me the courage to try something like this in the future. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foxindebox 464 Posted February 7, 2017 The only tips for the crown removal i can think of are are to use a screwdriver (1.2 or 1.4mm if I remember rightly) that is as wide as the groove it locates into, to push the release pin down (won't go down far enough to dislodge the bolt). Make sure the stem is pushed in to the 1st setting and also, make sure that the setting lever isn't bent and not holding the bolt in place. Good luck Thank you. I'll try the screwdriver method next, good suggestion that. After a bit of trial and error, the only way to hold (so far) is pulling the brown out to 3rd click (watch stopped) and then crown removed. Re-inserting the stem then seems to have worked best so far for me. Kinda tired of rebuilding the keyless soooooo many times ... it's exhausting :( Each reset is practise... Seriously, Once you are happy to assemble a keyless works without even thinking about it, there are no end of bits n bobs you can do Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 7, 2017 The only tips for the crown removal i can think of are are to use a screwdriver (1.2 or 1.4mm if I remember rightly) that is as wide as the groove it locates into, to push the release pin down (won't go down far enough to dislodge the bolt). Make sure the stem is pushed in to the 1st setting and also, make sure that the setting lever isn't bent and not holding the bolt in place. Good luck Thank you. I'll try the screwdriver method next, good suggestion that. After a bit of trial and error, the only way to hold (so far) is pulling the brown out to 3rd click (watch stopped) and then crown removed. Re-inserting the stem then seems to have worked best so far for me. Kinda tired of rebuilding the keyless soooooo many times ... it's exhausting :( Each reset is practise... Seriously, Once you are happy to assemble a keyless works without even thinking about it, there are no end of bits n bobs you can do haha .. yeah, i can draw it now without looking at it, i've fixed it so many times during this repair. Worst part I found was fixing the date wheel with the overlay already glued on. If there was no overlay, this movement is actually quite good to disassemble and put back. Although I've scratched up the main body in a few places .. tweezer marks ... I'm actually very happy with it, on a 30 turn charge it has run for more than 24hrs easily sat in the box. Turned another 30 and now I'm timing it. After it had stopped, just a little shake and it got going again. So I think what I've done has worked :) Great job...gives me the courage to try something like this in the future. Thanks Thanks - just watch out for any reverse opening screws! Round threaded the only in the movement (wouldn't come out) but luckily it's not causing any issues in manual charging. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,748 Posted February 7, 2017 The only tips for the crown removal i can think of are are to use a screwdriver (1.2 or 1.4mm if I remember rightly) that is as wide as the groove it locates into, to push the release pin down (won't go down far enough to dislodge the bolt). Make sure the stem is pushed in to the 1st setting and also, make sure that the setting lever isn't bent and not holding the bolt in place. Good luck Thank you. I'll try the screwdriver method next, good suggestion that. After a bit of trial and error, the only way to hold (so far) is pulling the brown out to 3rd click (watch stopped) and then crown removed. Re-inserting the stem then seems to have worked best so far for me. Kinda tired of rebuilding the keyless soooooo many times ... it's exhausting :( Each reset is practise... Seriously, Once you are happy to assemble a keyless works without even thinking about it, there are no end of bits n bobs you can do I can't imagine ever being happy to re-assemble a keyless. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Verve 5 Posted February 9, 2017 Ran for 39hrs 5 minutes sat in the box (30 turns charge) ... this is good enough for a serviced watch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Autobot 0 Posted February 23, 2017 WOW! This is amazing. Thanks for showing us your journey with this watch. I look forward to seeing what the outcome will be Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
