saby 0 Posted January 27, 2017 Hi All, It's been said everywhere, here and in RWI, that a 6263 dial made for v72 will not fit a dial made of A7750. I have also heard that the subdial spacings are wrong in 7750. However, I've never seen a comparison post with pics anywhere. I request the vintage Rollie gurus to make one post for it, or is it already there and I'm missing it somehow? I've been itching to get a v72 6263 build going with Clapton's albino dial. But my modder is asking this one specific question, is this dial for v72 or 7750? I know DW came with 7750 movement. But the question is how a noob like me, who is just getting started can know the difference by looking at the dials figure it out and possibly save money by not buying an unusable part. Thank You. P.S. Flame me all you want but do please show me the thread if there is one Cheers, Saby Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCRich 13,764 Posted January 27, 2017 Join RWI and look in the vintage section. What you seek is there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haltec 0 Posted January 27, 2017 I doubt that they made Clapton dials for A7750 subdial spacing.. So - most likely you going to need V72 based calibre.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr_B 2,401 Posted January 27, 2017 Hand wind all the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cleebeauregard 2 Posted January 27, 2017 The vintage Daytona is a hand-wound watch-- no place for a 7750 IMO. If it's authenticity ye seek, thou shalt go with V72. It's the only way you'll ever get the correct subdial spacing and pusher locations. Also, beware of the vintage Daytona my friend... you can very easily sink a shitload of $$$$ into these. I myself have well over $4K in a 6239 and 6241 build, and that's nothing compared to what some folks have spent. If you doubt me, check out a Phong: http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d111.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10:10 Watch Repair 1 Posted January 28, 2017 Also, beware of the vintage Daytona my friend... you can very easily sink a shitload of $$$$ into these. I myself have well over $4K in a 6239 and 6241 build, and that's nothing compared to what some folks have spent. A decent VJ72 should be $1500 and up. Look out for the 30 minute jumper spring, very hard to find at any price and breaks easily. Don't get one of the 72Cs with calendar. Service on that movement is also expensive, I wouldn't trust a "modder" to touch one. Plan on $500 for a real watchmaker. Mounting the movement in the case and getting pushers to work is no easy task, and can take a lot of hours and back and forth. A decent VJ 72 handset is over $100, crystal, bezel, 19mm folded or rivet bracelet - don't get the hollow link unless you want a world of hurt if you try and repair it. There are no truly good rep dials, but some of the reprints will do, just don't learn what the gens look like or you will cost yourself several thousand $ chasing one. It takes a white to get it done right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cleebeauregard 2 Posted January 28, 2017 My 41, with a reprint dial on a genuine Singer plate, gen-spec crystal and bezel, "supposedly" gen pushers (I highly doubt it, lol) and a genuine Rolex folded bracelet and clasp...and I'm still not finished with it, lol. It's a disease. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cleebeauregard 2 Posted January 28, 2017 One more of the dial-- forgive the markups, I was pointing out a couple of important details on the Newman dial to someone--asymmetric 5s and 3s, There are some other significant details that I'm particularly proud of on this dial-- correct slight step down on the subdials and the outer chapter ring, subdial markings that extend all the way to the edge of the recessed areas and actually "climb" up the outermost "grooves", correct absence of lume above the 12 o'clock index marker (unfortunately, it's missing at a few of the other markers as well, lol) and correct color for the "Daytona" letters. Of course all of these are things that only maniacs like those of us on these forums would have even the first clue or frankly even remotely care about. Overall, I think it's a damn fine reproduction, and I looked for a LONG,LONG TIME. So... you've been warned. Enter this particular madness at your own risk! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OlympusDaytona 49 Posted July 7, 2017 Cleebeauregard, I love your 6241 build. I'll be following with a Tiffany & Co. 6263 soon enough assuming I can get my base watch order switched to screw-down pushers... Was trying to build a 41 but realized my dial says Oyster so it needs to be a 63 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites