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semperfi55

Review - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400 Black Dial

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semperfi55

After many impulse-purchases, I have finally got round to buying the rep that got me into the dark side. If you're here for detailed analyses of how the tapisserie dial on V3 is different than V2J, or how the black dial compares to the blue dial in different lighting, stop reading. The JF 15400 V3 and gen comparison  is done to death over on RWI. Lots of interesting and useful info though, if you're really fussed about it. Me, I'm just happy I got a good watch :D (and blind).

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Photo from rep dealer (not TD) that got me interested in the rep world. Not representative of my rep. 

 

The Watch

The classic must-have Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400. In the 1970s, quartz was booming, Swiss watchmakers did not know how to compete with a time-keeping mechanism that was cheaper, more reliable, more accurate and tougher than mechanical movements. Audemars Piguet was a struggling brand, and they decided to they had shake things up a bit if they were to stay relevant. They picked up on demand for a luxury sports watch in the Italian market and decided to bring in legendary Gerald Genta to design a watch for them. The result was the Royal Oak. The source of the name "Royal Oak" either refers to King Charles II hiding in an oak tree or the British battleship HMS Royal Oak.

"Inspired by a traditional diver’s helmet, this revolutionary steel watch was characterized by an octagonal shaped bezel secured by eight visible hexagonal gold screws, visible water resistance gasket and a dial adorned with exclusive blue petit tapisserie motif. The watch was slim, just 7 mm, but pretty large (at that time) having a case diameter of 39 mm. To complete the watch, an integrated - and very complex to build -  stainless steel bracelet."

-Stolen from timeandwatches.com

In 1972, 39mm watch was pretty big. And the price of this watch was several times higher than a Submariner, which was still a tool watch rather than a luxury watch then. So the first 1000 Royal Oaks took a long time to sell. Nevertheless, as time went on, watch collectors took a liking to this odd-shaped watch and it soon became one of the classics in horology, eventually leading to the 41mm 15400 and the Royal Oak Offshore. Now, Audemars Piguet is just a hack brand pumping out Royal Oak-inspired designs to cash in with minimal innovation and creativity practically synonymous with Royal Oak.

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Original ref 5402  in comparison with 40th Anniversary 2012 AP 15202 (I'll get you one day)

Gen RRP: £14,200

The Rep

As with most classic watches, many factories would jump in for a slice of the rep market pie. But so far the JF v3 blows all competitors out of the water, until v4 comes along, which won't be as good as v5, but then v6 will have better bracelets so.....

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I struggled pretty badly before and after purchasing this watch. Blue dial or black dial. Black dial or blue dial. Fuck it, I'll get a blue dial 15202 and/or a blue dial Royal Oak complications.

 

TD Specs (Mr. Timezone)

Size: 41mm x 10.5mm

Movement: MIYOTA 9015 24J automatic at 28800vph with platinum plated movement plate and rotor (made according to genuine). The best looking  Cal 3120 Movement

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date display

Case: 1:1 stainless steel case

Bezel: Brushed/polished stainless steel bezel, same construction as genuine with recessed bezel screws (same as genuine)

Dial: Black textured dial with polished rehaut (same as genuine)

Crystal: Scratch-proof sapphire crystal with colorless AR coating

Strap & Clasp: Stainless steel bracelet with double deployant buckle engraving (same as genuine)

 

Dimensions

The gen is 41mm in diameter and 9,8mm thick.

I know my photos say 43mm diameter, but I really fucked up on caliper alignment there so my measurement must be a couple of mm off. :facepalm: In any case, I felt the watch size was the same as the gen I tried out in an AD before ordering.

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11mm thickness, close enough!

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Dial

It's hard to capture how dynamic the dial colour is on my iPhone. All I can imagine is how much more beautiful the blue dial would be.  Seriously, the black dial is that good. 

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Hour markers, logos, date wheel all well-aligned on my watch. Bezel screws done well too. Honestly, I'm not a good judge of these details. Dial is probably V3, I can never tell. What I'll say, the AR coating is great, the best among my reps so far.

 

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Movement

As mentioned before, this is a decorated Miyota 9015. The rotor is loud, but still quietest among my other Miyotas. Oil it up for less buzzsaw noises.

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Beautiful detail for the casual collector. I won't scrutinise too hard....

 

Functions

This section doesn't really work for this watch. Just the date complication. The date change mechanism engages around 11pm so that's probably a big tell.

 

Bracelet

After looking at so many TD photos, I was concerned that the watch would still be too big even after removing all possible links. Removed 5 in the end and got a tight fit. Phew.

The bracelet looks good, but doesn't feel good. Feels very sharp along the edges. I don't know, perhaps an oil bath will help here.

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Brand detailing on the clasp. The push clasp is easy to use and smooth on mine. Clicks well and securely.

 

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Accuracy

Someone was late to their own funeral because they wore a rep automatic. If you want punctuality, buy a quartz. Or sort your life out.

 

Overall

I can't do a balanced review, I love this watch even before buying it. The "review" is just an excuse to show off the watch. Can't say much more than other reviews about the detail and accuracy, the v3 is the closest rep for now. My initial concerns regarding size was allayed when I tried it out at the AD. It is bigger than what I'm used to. And there is some lug overhang despite the tight fit. Our small-wristed brethren should take note if this is a deal breaker. For reference, I have a 6.5 inch...

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....wrist ;) 

 

Next on the List

I am a huge fan of the Royal Oak octagonal. For now, I'm busy acquiring watches from various brands rather than hoarding up different iterations of the same brand. Once I get round to it, I'll be getting:

AP Royal Oak 15202 Blue, the automatic version. Quartz should be sufficient given the lack of a second hand but I hear that the finishing is not as good as the auto version.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202IP titanium smoked blue dial - SIHH 2018

 

AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26574 Blue. I'm sure it will be a nightmare if something breaks but hey it's a damn fine watch.

Audemars-Piguet-Royal-Oak-Perpetual-Calendar-26574OR-OO-1220-aBlogtoWatch-24.jpg

 

AP Royal Oak 15400 Gold with Leather Strap

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And lastly, just for the overt bling look...

AP Royal Oak 15454 Frosted Gold. 37mm because 41mm glittershit will be too flashy.

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Time to start saving!

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EBB

Oil bath might be a great plan, bracelet looks a bit stiff, but the overall package is top notch,  good review.

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Logixa

Thanks for the review semperfi! Lovely! 

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VMSG

Great review, thanks!

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McGilli

INTRO

Where to start....

FIRST PARAGRAPH

First off, The layout of your review is reminiscent of another fellow on here that does the best reviews in the world. That was nice to see, it reminded me of days gone by. I was totally expecting a story about how the watch saved your life, or helped you meet your new pet or something, but even though that didn't happen that was ok. Not everyone has time for that :) 

SECOND PARAGRAPH

I enjoyed your review, and photos even though it's not my kind of watch. And the best part, and this is not a compliment haha or an insult is that when I finished reading it I knew really nothing more about this watch than before I read your review. That's how I like my reviews! Lots of photos, and not being educated on anything!

THE JOB OFFER

If you get a Rolex VRF Sub MAX in the next month contact me and I'll hire out part of my review to you. Maybe even any other watch... Have your guy contact my guy.

OUTRO - I ADMIRE WHAT YOU DID THERE

Finally, I love the hidden message you put in the photos. I thought I saw it right away but I went back, and then re-read the 'part' and got it right away. And I totally agree with what you're saying and thanks for the nod to my recent contest on RWG. If anyone doesn't spot what you did here, then no, they won't win for sure. It's those kind of details that make things that appear simple to have such great appeal. Well done. Let's see if anyone else sees it and can put it here in the comments.... I don't want to spoil it.

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Luxuracer

Great review, very informative, fun to read. Lot of pictures and detail description. 

You are joining rank with some of the great reviewers including some of the new comers @McGilli @Glaude @_DC_ ... etc ...

 

... Oh ... You were wondering why your measurement came to 43.69mm

I can tell you it is NOT your digital caliper .... it's YOU

Semperfi55_AP.jpg

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semperfi55

@EBB @Logixa @VMSG

Thanks very much! :) Indeed, I'll get round to the oil bath for the watch once I get a bath.

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Glaude
35 minutes ago, McGilli said:

First off, The layout of your review is reminiscent of another fellow on here that does the best reviews in the world.

Thank you, I know you like my reviews .... :lol: 

19 minutes ago, Luxuracer said:

You are joining rank with some of the great reviewers including some of the new comers @McGilli @Glaude @_DC_ ... etc ...

You may want to check your joining date and compare it to us... you're the new comer around here, kid ;) 

@semperfi55 Great great review, lovely pics and of course, but you already know it, a great watch !
But I don't think the oil bath will do anything about the sharp edges

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semperfi55

@McGilli

I know what you mean, nothing annoys me more that someone going on and on about their life story and not the watch. Ugh it's called Replica Watches Guide not Replica Life Guide! I don't know about you but some bloke really goes on and on in his reviews, with a contest to boot! :)There was once a time when it was just about the watches. Bring back those halcyon days, I say!

Ah you see, I'm well versed in Concise Reliable Affable Points. Part of the tricks of my trade. Needing to tell patients enough about their condition but not enough to scare them. Make them feel assured and knowledgeable when they leave the hospital. So no surprises there when my reviews don't add much to the collective knowledge. Why give noobs the info for free? Repguy is not doing us much credit by giving links out for cheap.

I appreciate the job offer. Tell you what, I'll even throw in an op-ed for the Sub. About how Sub demand led to Brexit and Trump. True story. 

Also there are enough hints on your thread already. No need to advertise the reference here! (Jokes aside, thanks for the kind words. Glad you got the reference though, I thought it might have been too hidden!)

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semperfi55

@Luxuracer

Cheers! I was told I'm special since a young age, so I knew I would be among the greats one day....

Uhm actually it's not me? I'm surprised you weren't aware? The JF v3 comes with a novel feature. No one likes to talk about it. Makes them embarrassed for needing it. There's a translucent buffer(brushed as per gen) fixed to the top part of the bezel. That way you can walk through narrow doorways with ease, no worries about scratching the bezel. Mine is a bit faulty actually, TD promised 2.60mm buffer. What if I only allowed 2.60mm clearance when passing through a doorway.?Embarrassing to get caught at the door like that! I guess they thought 2.69mm would be a funny number. 1/10 won't buy again :p

Regardless, rest assured the buffer is of the best quality. No scratches even though my metal  digital calipers slipped on it. Can't beat 904L Translucent Steel.

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semperfi55

@Glaude

Thanks mate! :) Hope you get your grey dial soon!

I understand your point but I like to sand down my watches in an oil bath. Reduces friction when sanding :facepalm:

 

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Stufuse

Tis a lovely watch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Progenitor

Great review. I'm thinking about getting white as my first rep and this really helped.

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semperfi55

Thanks @Stufuse! :)

@Progenitor Welcome to the forum! Glad to hear it helped. Make a review if you do get one in the end!

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elementsk7

absolutely stunning

 

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cugine

awesome review man.  I have an old version of this and am thinking of getting another from JF V3.  I would LOVE to get it in yellow gold... but you know what they say about the gold plated replicas.... scares me a bit.

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semperfi55
On 07/07/2018 at 23:22, elementsk7 said:

absolutely stunning

 

It is indeed :)

3 hours ago, cugine said:

you know what they say about the gold plated replicas

I was worried about that too initially but then I realised I wanted a gold plated watch more than I was worried ;)

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Got a cheapie rose gold one, I'd imagine the JF V3 version would be even better!

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cugine
7 minutes ago, semperfi55 said:

It is indeed :)

I was worried about that too initially but then I realised I wanted a gold plated watch more than I was worried ;)

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Got a cheapie rose gold one, I'd imagine the JF V3 version would be even better!

hey man... beautiful!  can you PM me please?  Id like to sidebar this convo further with you.  Thanks in advance... Semper Fi! (former Navy here...you know, the Marines taxi cabs to the battle field? lol)

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REP

Absolutely gorgeous! On top of that your collection is great. I've always loved AP!

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semperfi55
On 17/09/2018 at 20:59, REP said:

Absolutely gorgeous! On top of that your collection is great. I've always loved AP!

Cheers REP :) 

What APs do you have? RO or ROO?

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Svenborg

Great taste.  :Applause: I have the same watches on my list, especially the 15400 in gold.  My issue is that when I start buying I tend to just buy different versions of the same watch until I have all of them I want. Not really the right approach. You end up with a bunch of Rolexes and PPS and very little else. :facepalm:. I’m clearly speaking about my collection. Time to buy some APs and Vacheron next.

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Stufuse

I got my v3 this week

Here’s a few pics

750a077dfe5fc4b9492eb4a108d580c1.jpg

34de7a5efe559096dbc017722dee8938.jpg83a24fa9845a8562ea559ea107695a2f.jpgbrushing and print is very nice

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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semperfi55
31 minutes ago, Svenborg said:

My issue is that when I start buying I tend to just buy different versions of the same watch until I have all of them I want.

Join the club.

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Only the black dial 15400 is a high end expensive ones, the rest are cheapies... That's one way to scratch the itch....

32 minutes ago, Svenborg said:

Time to buy some APs and Vacheron next.

That sounds like my motto...

 

21 minutes ago, Stufuse said:

83a24fa9845a8562ea559ea107695a2f.jpg

That's a very good photo, Stufuse. Doesn't feel like the same watch at all :rofl:

Wear it in good health! 

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Andrysoh

The brushing is really good..??? Looks genlike.

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Freebos720

Awesome review!!

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