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J!m

LocTite for stems and tubes...

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J!m

Ok guys. 

I see there are a lot of people doing all sorts of mods- and that’s great. I encourage that!

but I must point out you need to be very careful with the thread locker you use. Putting things together is not an issue. Use red. BUT, if you EVER want to get the tube out of the case, or get the stem out of the crown, DO NOT USE RED OR BLUE. They will never come apart. I have had crown tubes snap off with the threads in the case. Rep tubes are more prone due to ratty machining practices but even gen ones can snap. And boy does it suck to scrap a gen crown because the stem snapped off in there. Alum might work on that butvthe spring might be destroyed... just don’t do it. 

Use “purple” locktite only. Here’s a picture of the stuff. (This bottle is about 8.5 lifetime supplies). I have seen mini vial combo packs for a few bucks with red, blue and purple in them as well. 

DE2ED360-CF01-4BF2-A593-C1F796F3953423a9

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Pseudorep

Second this about loctite. That stuff can be strong. I used Loctite 620 (super strong green) to successfully transfer 800-1000W of power from a cylindrical tube to an loose interference fit shaft that was inserted 1in into the tube.

It failed about 30 minutes in, but just want to stress that is a very very large force being transferred just by glue.

(It was a proof of concept to demonstrate ways to repair a small boat engine non mechanically that would get you back to safety)

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Luxuracer
1 hour ago, J!m said:

DO NOT USE RED OR BLUE. 

Thank you for the information and detail description of the different types of Loctite.

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J!m

Fortunately, green is not that easy to find at the corner store...

but I believe your experiment- that stuff is evil. Remove via gas wrench only. I don’t even use it on Diesel engine builds!

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