Planning and building a "super rep"...

[J!m 289]

There are many talented watchsmiths and modders operating on the various forums. All with varying levels of expertise. And this is  just a breakdown of my philosophy on building reps.

First, and foremost: I build reps that I want. I try to purchase the best example as a base to begin with, and mod it as needed from there. Also, it typically takes me YEARS to complete a build (averaging around five years). So keep that in mind as you read.

With that said, there needs to be a clear plan in mind before we begin. So, we decide we want a "sub", like 99% of the known universe. Fine. Lets start narrowing that down a bit, since the sub has been around for close to 70 years now, so we can buy parts/watches "smartly" and not end up with a mountain of parts we will never use. (NOTE: sometimes this is unavoidable, and getting the "right" bezel for instance, may require you to purchase a complete watch and scrap all but the bezel for an example.)

Sub. Got it. "Vintage" or "Modern". Vintage (to me at least), means a four-digit reference with a Hesalite crystal. Ex. 5512, 5513, 5514, 1665, 1680 etc.

"Modern" breaks down into several categories in my mind. 1) early sapphire- five-digit reference numbers (I.e. 16610, 16800, [SUPER RARE 168000] ) WITH lug holes and stamped end links. 2) late sapphire (i.e. 16610 again) WITHOUT lug holes and with a SEL bracelet.* 3) Ceramic models (six digit reference numbers) These last ones are the current "modern" models, and I suppose the five-digits could be classified as "classic" models at this point but that's not where I'm going with this dissertation.

* note there are "transitional" 16610's WITH lug holes and SEL bracelets. These (rare) bracelets have SEL's WITHOUT the spring bar tool grooves under the end link. But you already knew that from your research, right?

Once you decide on an "era" (broadly speaking) we have to invest MANY hours of research. I have massive files of gen photos from sales and my handling of specific watches in person, that I refer to when selecting parts to purchase. This is a critical step in the journey, and I strongly suggest you build you own "library" of photos. For "modern" models (five and six digit) it is relatively easy to get genuine parts. eBay and the Rolex forums are good sources. If you buy on TRF, make sure you register there, and make some QUALITY posts before buying stuff. Just a suggestion... And one of the most unique parts to a particular production era (serial number range/date codes) is the dial. I also try to acquire and use a gen dial in all builds, but that is not always possible, obviously. I tend to build four digit references, so ORIGINAL dials (not era-correct SERVICE dials) are extremely difficult to source. But, for 16610 models, for sake of this discussion, there are several genuine dials on eBay right now, in early (lug hole case, tritium lume) and later (luminova mostly used on no-holes case [SWISS only on dial]) versions. Every so often a superluminova one will pop up, generally commanding the highest asking prices. These have SWISS MADE on the bottom of the dial. Hands are on TRF regularly, as are inserts and other mechanical parts.

So, once you have your dial, the next hurdle is the case. I don't know who has the best 16610 sub case right now, probably the high roller dealers, such as MQ etc. But doing your homework includes determining the "era" of your dial, so you can source an appropriate case to either use as-is, or modify as required to replicate the particular case you need. Since you know your serial range by now, you can specify a unique serial when you order your case. There are a few resources out there (at least one of the "high rollers" for sure) who can re-reference and serialize your case. If nothing else, having a UNIQUE serial avoids popping up as a "known rep" in google searches and can be used for insurance purposes, since your investment will be significant in this build. In this regard, I suggest an agreed upon value, based on the purchase cost of the parts ONLY. Trying to defraud an insurance company that you have a "real" 16610- no matter HOW good- is fraud, and you will do time if found out.

Moving on, assuming the case it out of the way, you need to address the rest of the mechanicals. When using a gen dial, you really should get the gen movement, or at least one compatible with it. This is fairly easy with something like a vintage Tudor, which used the (somewhat) common 2784. (side note: the 2784 is NOT interchangeable with the 2824. Stem is unique [and hard to get], dial feet positions are different and a few other parts are not interchangeable. Also, it came in a "low" and "high" beat version so tread lightly here.) For a 16610, to keep costs under control, a rep 3135 is the way to go. Budget a full service, as they all need it. If you want lasting durability, source a complete winding bridge and have your modder install it. You will need a gen date wheel, as the overlays are always a compromise, and the date "flip" at midnight on a gen movement is truly special- it does not "creep" to the new day, once it is there, it snaps over so quickly it is difficult to determine the direction the date wheel is turning... "Seems like a lot of money for a rep" this may be true, but this is the upper echelon of reps. For those who care so much about the "tells" and tiny details. Don't waste your time obsessing over insert fonts when the insert is the wrong era for the dial and/or case, and you are using a rep crown. If you enter the "rabbit hole" you don't stop until you hit the bottom.

Now that may sound down right silly, but if you don't shoot the "long game" on these builds (note again it takes YEARS), you will spend more, and possibly remain somewhat disappointed with your watch. A gen this or that will come along, and you'll snatch it up. Then realize that is not correct for your target build (doing research after the fact). You then either build it up and sell it off, or sell parts at a loss and keep moving. Take it from me and my experience in this regard: set your FINAL goal, and ONLY acquire parts that get you closer to that goal. Otherwise you WILL waste literally thousands on parts trying to essentially hit a moving target.

Back on track: The 16610 (since the beginning) uses the VERY common 703 crown. NEVER skimp on the crown or tube. Looking right is one thing, but the crown tube and crown and very large sources of problems. You have threads between tube and case, a square profile o-ring between tube and case, if gen spec, you then have two O-rings inside the tube, one on the end of the tube (usually stuck in the crown) and the one below the threads, so often "shown off" with the crown unscrewed. Due to scale, all the pieces must not only be properly dimensioned, they must also have the proper SURFACE FINISH where the O-rings seat, in order to have seal integrity. Now I can say that the WO990 703 tubes are good dimensionally and finish.  In all cases, all O-rings must be removed (if installed), the tube thoroughly cleaned in Acetone and/or ultrasonic, O-rings replaced (unless new) and coated with Dow Corning 111 (AKA MolyKoye 111) and then re-inserted. Due to size, it is very easy to damage an o-ring doing this, so be patient, or let an established modder do your build once you have your parts. Note that manu rep cases have the incorrect thread pitch for the rep tubes. I guess a lot have corrected this but older cases have not. The correct tap is essential. The correct thread locker is also essential. You want "low strength" which is not common. "medium strength" (typically blue) is far to strong. Check the data: recommended smallest fastener diameter is 1/4" (.250 inch / 6.35mm) and is simply too strong. You can try auto parts suppliers as the "purple" (low strength) is often sold to set carburetor adjustment screws, although those are also rare these days... Clean threads as well as possible. Even on gen cases, I always "chase" the threads with the tap to ensure they are clean, straight and burr free. I follow with a q-tip in alcohol or acetone (depending if there is old thread locker in there or not) followed by rodico.

With that out of the way, lets move on to the crystal. Your research will tell you when the "LEC" went into use on the 16610. I'm reasonably certain it came on line when the lug holes disappeared, but there is always overlap as things were phased out. For a 16610, I suggest a gen crystal (actually, I always do, to preserve the "look" of the watch), but if an early no LEC crystal is required, there are many aftermarket options that are just fine. The crystal gasket should be new EVERY TIME you set the crystal. It deforms, and particularly if it comes from another case, will not seal perfectly. It may seal "well enough" but if you have a gen dial, and a gen movement, do you want to take that gamble? Now a detail here: I ALWAYS set the movement in the case before I set the (final) crystal. (I will use a junker for protection as I work), but the reason behind this is that I need to align the Cyclops (if fitted) in perfect alignment with the date window. If the case and crystal have not been disassembled (say a gen case was found with crystal in tact) you may be able to manipulate the movement enough to get good alignment. That's a case where I would not refit the crystal, assuming the crystal retainer was also in place upon purchase, and you feel confident it is sealed well and should not be disturbed...

Bezel assembly: I think, from what I've seen around, the 16610 rep assembly is pretty good. 120 "clicks" and the shape looks good. I can't comment on insert holding, but I presume it is also good. DO NOT use the double sided tape for these. That adds thickness, raising the insert, and can put it at risk of getting caught, and if gen, that can be expensive. When forced to use aftermarket bezels, I always use G-S cement to make sure it's not coming out. Any watchmaker can deal with that adhesive, and it is flexible enough to absorb a knock unlike "super glue" which is brittle and cracks easily. For the vintage stuff I typically build, I have not found an aftermarket bezel ring, regardless of price, that looks and works correctly. the WO990 one is OK looking, and by mixing parts I can get them to turn well enough, but gen rings have a pronounced groove to hold the insert (I use a crystal press to insert them), as well as a raised lip above the insert. These lips often get polished down, but really nice "survivor" examples show the raised lip clearly on side angle photos. If you find a good one for four-digits, LET ME KNOW. The last Gen one I bought was $600 for the ring with a service insert installed, and lately they are much more than that.

A little note on case "shaping": don't use power tools. I see a lot of dremel action with sanding drums etc. Avoid the "quick and easy" path, because "you cannot undo what has been done." I use Swiss pattern files, a few appropriately shaped backer pieces for sand paper and a lot of time. I can do crown guards that mimic gen (four digit) ones but still have not found an acceptable method for lug bevels. Always practice on junker cases before you go after a good one. Obviously gen cases should not be touched.

Polishing: please spend a day surfing youtoob on this. It is SO easy to destroy a case at the polishing wheel. Plenty of experienced wtchmakers do it all the time. There are some things (usually dents, either edge or in a field) that cannot be polished out. Live with them. In fact, I suggest you tape off the brushed lug tops and then use a sunshine cloth ONLY on the polished areas and be happy with that. Using the wrong wheel, dope, pressure, angle, amount of time and so on can all destroy the shape of a case in seconds. I see this all the time here, as well as on gen watches poorly polished. I purchased a poorly polished 1680 and spent some serious money having it reconstructed by Michael Young because it was polished away...

Final assembly: you must be clean. Take a friggin shower! Wash your hands after polishing, as the dope can transfer to other stuff and cause micro-scratches. Wash your hands if you eat, drink, use the bathroom... Seriously. Put on rubber/nitrile gloves if you tend to get sweaty. But generally the work area should be a bit cooler than comfortable to avoid any sweating.  be comfortable at your station. You might spend 30 minutes properly setting hands on a date model, so the flip is precisely at midnight and the hour and minute hand align perfectly at "noon". What I do is work the hour hand with the date. I want to see the hour hand perfectly upright when the date snaps over. Once satisfied, I set the minute hand. I align the tip of the minute hand with the dead center (or hash mark) of noon. I then verify I have the same amount of hour hand poking out either side of the minute hand, at midnight, when the date flips. +/- five minutes is my standard, but not always achievable.  Always run it around a couple times to be sure the alignment is good. I have seen people set the hands using 3:00 and never understood this. If it's perfect at noon/midnight, when the hands are on top of each other, that is the most accurate reference to know they are "right" around the dial. Crystal should be immaculate. For hesalite, ONLY use a blower on the inside, NOTHING ELSE. You will create more scratches trying to clean it further. on sapphire (without any AR coating) use lens paper moistened with reagent grade isopropyl alcohol. SOME lens papers will leech a white residue to make sure you then wipe with a dry lens paper to finish. I use the Kimberly-Clark "Kim Wipes" as I have some big boxes left over from when I was a photographer. Check everything ten times. I rodico the rehaut right before I set movement; rodico case top and rehaut top edge (avoid dial of course) just before setting the crystal. And again before the retainer goes on.

Finishing up, use a new case back gasket, moistened with Dow Corning 111. All sealing surfaces should be immaculate. Rodico the groove right before setting the gasket. New gaskets (gen in particular) usually have white-ish release agent on them. If so, give a gentle clean with alcohol before applying the 111. Place a tiny drop on your inex finger tip, rub into your thumb, close them on the gasket and feed it through with your other hand. This applys a thin, even coating and also allows you to feel if the o-ring has any nicks before you put it in. Start the case back by turning backwards first, until it "clicks" into the thread lead. The go forward slowly. Gens screw in very smoothly. Most reps have a bit of grittiness to them, because they are rushing to cut the threads. These your components ahead of time, but of you didn't, uncase, remove crystal etc. and polish the case and cover threads with 0000 steel wool and re-clean. Obviously, now is not the best time to do this, but you don't want to assemble if the back is gritty... You may never get it back off. You can put a tiny bit of 111 on the threads if you like, but don't use much!

Final assembly (bracelet): Since you already sourced the correct date code you can install it. For the no-holes cases, the Bergeon "tweezer" tool is the right one. To avoid scratches on lug hole cases, apply some blue tape on the polished sides first. 

Maybe I'll add to this in the future, maybe not. I hope you enjoy it, and get a little something out of it, as well as some insight into how I do things.