Jump to content
Ohana

Advice Needed Please - Movement Options

Recommended Posts

Ohana

Hi folks, some advice on movements please.

I am looking to pull the trigger on a Patek Philippe Nautilus.  My TD has 2 movements on offer:

- (Nautilus 40th Anniversary Edition) "Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor", at $358, and

- (Nautilus Jumbo) " Swiss SW 200 Automatic Movement , 25J, 28800bph, Nickle Plated, Cortes de Geneve Engineered Bridges, Gold Plated Insignia Rotor As per the Genuine",  at $548

Both have SS bracelet.

Is the Swiss SW 200 movement likely to be of superior quality, sufficient to justify an additional $190 over the Miyota.

Comments appreciated.

 

Edited by Ohana
spelling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tits McGee

The consensus over the years has been that most so called "Swiss" movements are sketchy at best. For $190.00 I'd get the Miyota.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
EBB

no! go with the miyota! save your money!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
frolex

miyota, hands down 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RepGuy

ohana-means-family-gif-13.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
efajri

Who is the TD? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rx4Time

If I'm not mistaken, the miyota will be thinner and closer to gen.  The gen is really thin, around 8 mm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GenTLe

I have both (the Miyota 9015 is a BP 1st batch with correct hands from another 21j one)
In this case the Swiss movement is a new real not refurbished Swiss movement.

This said, both watches are high quality. I'd go for the Miyota because it is thinner and so more gen-like. Both movements are equally good in my view.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana

Thanks very much for comments. My guess was that the Myota would be the better option, so I'll be diving in soon.

Just now waiting for my IWC Ingenieur to arrive. 

I can  see that collecting reps is addictive, and when I feel that I've tipped over the edge from passion to addiction, I may need to call for some counselling from forum members.

Many thanks.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blueoysterboy

"I may need to call for some counseling from forum members" .  HAHAHAHA . tell me how that works for you...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hanski
On 15/08/2018 at 16:38, Ohana said:

Hi folks, some advice on movements please.

I am looking to pull the trigger on a Patek Philippe Nautilus.  My TD has 2 movements on offer:

- (Nautilus 40th Anniversary Edition) "Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor", at $358, and

- (Nautilus Jumbo) " Swiss SW 200 Automatic Movement , 25J, 28800bph, Nickle Plated, Cortes de Geneve Engineered Bridges, Gold Plated Insignia Rotor As per the Genuine",  at $548

Both have SS bracelet.

Is the Swiss SW 200 movement likely to be of superior quality, sufficient to justify an additional $190 over the Miyota.

Comments appreciated.

 

The Sellita SW200-1 is a great movement, it's a Swiss-made ETA copy made by former ETA employees who started their own company when the patents expired. Having worked on A2836's, ETA2836's, ETA2824's, A2813's, DG3804B's and SW200's - the ETA and Sellita's are both high-end, well-crafted movements. I would venture to say they're identical. The Asian movements just aren't that great, even if they are supposedly identical. 

I cannot speak with experience about Miyota's but from what I've read the sweep hand is indirectly driven compared with the direct drive of the ETA's. I've read that's a good thing - but take that with a grain of salt. 

BUT! Big caveat here, if the SW200 is coming from a TD there's no guarantee it's actually a Swiss SW200. It very well may be an A2824 or modified A2836 with Sellita stamps. 

A new SW200-1 from Ofrei is only $159 (http://www.ofrei.com/Sellita-Watch-Movement.html) so a $200 price difference probably isn't worth it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Logixa

Never pick anything that is said to be "Swiss" in the rep business. 

The sellita is a pretty nice movement when bought new from official movement dealers. But sellita has 1 huge flaw, several of the gears for manual winding must be replaced by eta ones. The design of these gears is shit and causes the gear teeth to be grinded off. I've seen it multiple times and replaced each one of them with eta parts. 

Back to the never buy anything that is stated Swiss is also because they can use only the main bridge that has the Swiss stamps, everything else is replica parts etc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana
7 hours ago, 0ysterboy said:

"I may need to call for some counseling from forum members" .  HAHAHAHA . tell me how that works for you...

but, but, but...…. when I joined this forum, I felt sure that there would be sensible members who could provide advice and direction if rep watch collecting gets to be an obsession.

Don't tell me I'm mistaken! I already feel I'm getting a little out of my depth, good grief !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana
7 hours ago, Martijn0007 said:

This is the Nautilus you want: http://www.toro.host/index.php?route=product/product&path=102_188&product_id=2674

Best Nautilus rep available at the moment. Up to you if it's worth the price tag. 

Hi Martin

I notice that the movement in your suggestion seems to be the same as the one I'm thinking about, but is priced at $498, against mine at $358 :

Your suggestion: MOVEMENT: Japanese MIYOTA 9015 Automatic Movement Decorate to PP324CS Movement, 28800bph

Mine: Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor

I note your suggestion is a Jumbo, however as I am very new to the rep watch world, I am interested to know what would I be getting for the additional cost.

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blueoysterboy

I felt sure that there would be some sensible equally obsessed members who will continue to feed my passion in an unhealthy fashion until my provide advice and direction if rep watch collecting gets to be an obsession.

OK, steered your statement into the reality lane.

You're welcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana

Many thanks for assistance and useful (and some useless, but very clever and humorous) responses.

Another request pls, for the difference, and price difference justification, between the following, one of which will be ordered this week:

- (Nautilus 5711) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor  - $468

- (Nautilus Jumbo) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement , 24J, 28800bph, Nickle Plated, Cortes de Geneve Engineered Decorative Bridges and Engraving as per Genuine, Gold Plated Insignia Rotor as per Genuine - $328

The only movement difference I can see is underlined in the 5711, (Modified with Calibre 324C, and $140 more expensive),  and I can't see any great difference (in the TD pics) between the look of either watch.

Again, comments greatly appreciated, and thanks for helping a newbie.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RepGuy
2 minutes ago, Ohana said:

Many thanks for assistance and useful (and some useless, but very clever and humorous) responses.

Another request pls, for the difference, and price difference justification, between the following, one of which will be ordered this week:

- (Nautilus 5711) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor  - $468

- (Nautilus Jumbo) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement , 24J, 28800bph, Nickle Plated, Cortes de Geneve Engineered Decorative Bridges and Engraving as per Genuine, Gold Plated Insignia Rotor as per Genuine - $328

The only movement difference I can see is underlined in the 5711, (Modified with Calibre 324C, and $140 more expensive),  and I can't see any great difference (in the TD pics) between the look of either watch.

Again, comments greatly appreciated, and thanks for helping a newbie.

You cant just keep posting multiple watches, and expect others to break down the differences. It's time to start researching yourself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Glaude
35 minutes ago, Ohana said:

Many thanks for assistance and useful (and some useless, but very clever and humorous) responses.

Another request pls, for the difference, and price difference justification, between the following, one of which will be ordered this week:

- (Nautilus 5711) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement,  28800bph, 24J - Modified with Calibre 324SC Movement Bridges and Engraving, Insignia Gold Rotor  - $468

- (Nautilus Jumbo) - Japanese Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement , 24J, 28800bph, Nickle Plated, Cortes de Geneve Engineered Decorative Bridges and Engraving as per Genuine, Gold Plated Insignia Rotor as per Genuine - $328

The only movement difference I can see is underlined in the 5711, (Modified with Calibre 324C, and $140 more expensive),  and I can't see any great difference (in the TD pics) between the look of either watch.

Again, comments greatly appreciated, and thanks for helping a newbie.

Without links it's hard to tell which factory those descriptions corresponds to.

Judging by the description, I would guess this is either Perfect Clones or Trusty Time websites.

In the end, the main consensus is that you want the PF Factory, it's the best compromise with dial colour, thickness and overall fidelity, just pay attention on the alignment of the markers in the QC process.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana
1 hour ago, RepGuy said:

You cant just keep posting multiple watches, and expect others to break down the differences. It's time to start researching yourself.

I did research "Modified with Calibre 324SC....", which is the subject of this post,  but found nothing.

……… so how do you suggest I start researching, apart from asking questions on this forum?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RepGuy
3 minutes ago, Ohana said:

I did research "Modified with Calibre 324SC....", which is the subject of this post,  but found nothing.

……… so how do you suggest I start researching, apart from asking questions on this forum?

Alright, I'll try to explain it.

The movement is identical, with it being a 9015. The movement bridges mentioned are literally just decorative metal covers that are fitted over the stock 9015 movement to make it look more like the gen. This does not change anything about the movement, other than a higher risk of screws falling in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rx4Time
1 minute ago, Ohana said:

I did research "Modified with Calibre 324SC....", which is the subject of this post,  but found nothing.

……… so how do you suggest I start researching, apart from asking questions on this forum?

It's best to research a specific model looking both here and other rep foura for review and comparison threads.  This will give you real world feedback on a specific model and it's known flaws and issues.   Unless the movement is a superclone it'll be a regular movement decorated to look somewhat like the gen.  Best source for this is look at a large TD like puretime and see if it's a miyota or A2824 decorated, etc.  My suggestion is avoid superclone movements with the exception of the SH3132/3135 as they are mostly compatible with genuine Rolex parts should repairs be needed (still more expensive to repair vs an ETA clone or miyota).  All other superclone movements if they break are basically a paperweight as no replacement parts are available. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ohana

RepGuy and Rx4Time, excellent responses, thanks so much.

So much to learn, and hopefully irritating newbie questions will be less frequent :)

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GenTLe




I cannot speak with experience about Miyota's but from what I've read the sweep hand is indirectly driven compared with the direct drive of the ETA's. I've read that's a good thing - but take that with a grain of salt. 


That's the Miyota 21.600BPH, like the 8215 or the series 8xxx.
The 9015 like this is thinner and is directly driven.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×