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semperfi55

Review - Patek Philippe 530 Chronograph: Vintage Bling!

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semperfi55

Ever since I got my Dubey & Schaldenbrand split seconds and my pre Daytona chronograph, I definitely acquired a taste for vintage chronos. Then I got the Patek 5370 Grand Complications Split Seconds rep. That really got me into the older Patek chronos. I'm not  a fan of  Patek's current iteration of the chronograph ref 5170

Patek-Philippe-5170G-010-Black-Dial-15.j

It's elegant, no doubt about that, but like their Calatrava, Perpetual Calendar collections, I feel Patek have gone too far with the simplistic, streamlined curves aesthetic. I prefer their older, busier versions. The opinions of the connoisseur who cannot afford a Patek. This little pictorial will prove my point; I prefer the 2010 or 2013 release.

Patek-Philippe-5170-Chronograph-Evolutio

Anyway, I digress, these are the modern versions. Let's look at the vintage one.

 

The Watch

Initially, Patek had the ref 130 chronograph.

PP130J-02.jpg

But at 33mm diameter, there was demand for a larger chronograph, and so the 36mm-36.5m ref 530 was produced.

PP530-J-CHR-01.jpg

Patek-Philppe-530-chronograph-7.jpg

I did not realise the gen is this rare. The 530 was produced from 1937 until 1962, but relatively few were made. They came in mostly yellow gold, rose gold and stainless steel versions. The stainless steel versions were made during the Second World War. These stainless steel ones are sold for crazy prices. A 1942 steel version was auctioned for 680,000 Swiss Francs. While rose gold versions have been sold for USD 250,000

The 530 is astonishingly rare. The figures differ from site to site and dependent on when the article was published but less than 20 of the rose gold versions have been auctioned,  and less than 10 stainless steel versions have appeared in auctions. It's apparently such a legendary piece, that when Patek released the 5170 in 2010, you can tell where they got the inspiration from.

Gen Price: Fuck knows, depends on how you auction/sell it. At least USD 250,000 probably.

 

The Rep

I asked around the TDs and only the 5130 from 2010 and 2015 were available. @Alan32Then I stumbled across this on M2M. Snapped it up for a great bargain :D Yllekp had it on a rose gold mesh but he included the original rep straps as well.

Interestingly, I came across this rep on the gate, the listing claimed ST19 movement and the watch in the photos were exactly like mine. Not gonna risk $300 on da gate!

30052866607_700efd0585_b.jpg

Here you can see I was trembling as I photographed this magnificent gilded beast. 

31116104398_760810ea96_b.jpg

 

Dimensions

The gen case diameter is between 36mm to 36.5mm.

Mine measured out to be:

Case Diameter: 39.2mm

Case Height: 12.2mm

Lug Width: 19.5mm

Lug-to-Lug: 48.1mm

Not very gen like diameter. But I suppose for the modern wearer, the 39mm diameter is a better fit. It's so rare that no one will know if it is off. 

 

Dial

Feast on that beautiful white dial!

43176830260_409de574a8_b.jpg

As the production spanned decades, the brand display also reflected the rebranding that Patek was going through.  The older ones would have a comma after "PATEK". In "GENEVE", they retianed the accent on the second "E". The comma and the accent disappear as time goes by. Eventually, even the "& Co" was omitted.

53015302

PATEK PHILIPPE VINTAGE OVERSIZED 530 18K ROSE GOLD CHRONOGRAPH

On the rep, they might have run out of ink. Because it's a period instead of a comma. Were the repmakers trying to insinuate some sort of boardroom chicanery? 

 

Nah, ink shortage more likely. The GENEVE is also missing an accent. So it is period incongruent. But because of how rare the gen is, and how diverse the dials could be, few would notice.

31116103968_360ae468cb_b.jpg

Moved the chrono second for your viewing pleasure. Such a magnanimous chap, me.

44269660164_851a27318a_b.jpg

The 3 o'clock subdial is a 30-minute counter. The subdial is sunken, plain texture just like the gen. The rep also follows the gen in which this subdial hand is blued to match the centre chrono second hand. Small detail, but makes a big difference for the general aesthetic.

44077322595_e5d27f1485_b.jpg

"SWISS"

The repmakers have replicated the iconic arabic numerals for 6 and 12 with tiny hour indices for the remainder. Again, in the gen, there are all sorts of variations across the decades. Some have more arabic numerals, some have dot hour indices.

43176841230_c2b984e80b_b.jpg

The 9 o'clock subdial is the actual running seconds. It's done cleanly and simply.

44269660284_c1dfce5ab7_b.jpg

I'm a huge fan of the tachymetre track. They have placed the tachymetre and minute track so close to each other, making it look super-busy. Love it! :D 

44940114432_3a86a39154_b.jpg

It just keeps going...... :drool:

44988559101_58895730b6_b.jpg

Close up of the printing. 

44940113312_08670cc2c6_b.jpg

The "BASE 1000" can be found either at 11 o'clock or 1 0'clock on the gens. The gen variations muddy the waters once again!

30052864497_7deb4b8787_b.jpg

The hands are the correct leaf hands. But lengthwise it is off. The hour hand should be just reaching the hour indices, whereas the minute hands should just touch the inner ring of the minute track. The rep hour hand is a tad short while the minute hand is a tad long.

44077336215_522f2091cc_b.jpg

You can see how the crystal shape "deforms" the tip of the second hand. Brilliant! :lol:

43176825920_91a1f213dd_b.jpg

Low angle shot.

30052865337_f63b3acb8b_b.jpg

 

Movement

The watch is powered by a ST19 movement. Reliable, hand wind, fitting for this watch. The down side of this rep is that it's just a flat display crystal. Very rudimentary caseback.

43176855590_e713fdd849_b.jpg

It has some perfunctory engravings. Ref 130J is very very off. :rofl:

EDIT: To be fair, since this rep diameter is off anyway, it could be an inaccurate 530 rep or a wildly inaccurate 130 rep. Imagination is your friend.

30052854117_3aac5065d2_b.jpg43176842590_36d1f89441_b.jpg

 

Case

The case is a highly reflective rose gold plated steel case. I would prefer a stainless steel case or even a more traditional yellow gold plating, but when a 530 comes up for a bargain, I couldn't sya no...

43176838920_c40d4c1ce4_b.jpg

Curvy lugs ;) 

31116090858_703ab9daed_b.jpg

Tab chrono pushers and logo on the crown.

31116092858_c20ca96057_b.jpg

Even though it is 12mm in height, it wears quite slim on the wrist. I believe the lugs to help in reducing it's height profile.

43176840350_97627f8b87_b.jpg

 

Strap, Bracelet, Buckle, Clasp and all the Good Things in Life

Decisions.....decisions..... @Glaude

When I first got it, I was determined to put the watch back on it's original strap and use the mesh for a different watch. Perhaps a watch with rose gold case and black dial, something with a simple dial. That would look pretty cool. But I figured I should give the mesh a chance and by god it was glorious. On the mesh it stays.

Here's how it looks like on the strap. The standard, typical, classy Patek watch. Extreme dressy.

44269673064_9b428a44f9_b.jpg

I like that it says the right words on the back...hand stitched and everything :rolleyes:

44940090702_f20181bf39_b.jpg44077326385_b9804f9caf_b.jpg

The buckle detail is actually quite nice. Fine engraving on a small buckle.

44988549901_10819fd718_b.jpg

Look at how the mesh bends and drapes on the surface....

30052849257_86a4ddc5bc_b.jpg

Endless...endless golden mesh.... oh

44269681424_8d16f6b8e4_b.jpg

Never heard of the brand.

30052854187_7e3dbe9c06_b.jpg

This mesh is also the most comfortable strap I have in my collection.  I quite like the over-the-top, ostentatious bling. that the mesh bracelet brings. I'm sure this would perplex @RussP and his classy gold collection.

 

Function

Of course, with the ST19, you have a reliable chronograph movement. The pushers have a sturdy feel, and the chronograph works like a charm.

31116086138_36cb1fc58c_b.jpg

30 minute counter works too!

30052853147_7650b09e2b_b.jpg

@McGilli No lume needed for this watch.  The decadent, opulent shine of the gold will show you the way.

44940099452_8271148d83_b.jpg

 

Accuracy

If you want to play with a handwind chronograph, make sure you give a few extra winds for good measure. Because if the centre chrono second hand stops halfway, the panic ensues and accuracy of the watch would be the least of your concerns :baghead:

 

Overall

I'm very glad I got the watch :D A fine addition to my slowly growing "vintage" chronos. I'll need to get another gen vintage chrono at some point. The variations in the gen gives this watch quite a bit of leeway in terms of detail accuracy. But that is a moot point because the gen is so rare. In fact, the biggest tell would be me wearing this on my grocery trip to Tesco or Lidl :lol:. So few people would even know the details of the gen ref 530. And they probably won't be rubbing shoulders with the likes of me. Fine by me :D 

44077323485_32720508e8_b.jpg

Side by side with actual vintage 1960s.

30052846177_2f0549d4b7_b.jpg

Wrist shot 

43176817180_13a4c4c2e8_b.jpg

 

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blueoysterboy

Ya know, every time I see a PP rep or gen, something in my teeny brain tells me I have to have one.  But alas, none in my watchbox (yet).

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Alan32

Semperfi55  White dials are not my favorite, I don't like rose gold, and I'm not struck by "busy" watch faces................so why the F.... am I drooling:drool:

PS are you aware of the story behind your avatar picture?

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Glaude

Another great review ! 

Thanks for taking the time, you hoarder !

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RussP
3 hours ago, 0ysterboy said:

Ya know, every time I see a PP rep or gen, something in my teeny brain tells me I have to have one.  But alas, none in my watchbox (yet).

I was once in your shoes.... But that was a very long time ago.

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BenjaminButton

Soviet army on the Reichstag raising the flag.

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repmaster1234

That’s a gorgeous watch mate, I have to admit I’m a bit jealous. Great review too. 

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Gingerskooch

Much better review than the normal Glaude/McGilli shite we have to put up with around here. Bravo. Bravo.

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RussP

Since you quoted me, it inspired me to trawl through some of my seldom worn watches and post these of the only PP I have on a mesh band:

43330548750_d5537bab42_b.jpg

45142429421_fd2830b37c_b.jpg

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McGilli
28 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

Much better review than the normal Glaude/McGilli shite we have to put up with around here. Bravo. Bravo.

No man! You're going to love my next review! It's now up to 3,500 words and I still don't get my new watch until next week.

On top of the homosexual bar, children's playground, hospital infirmary, lingerie store, and other's I've been able to work a homeless shelter into the review. Oh, and there will be something about a watch I'm sure.

You'll love it. Just curl up in front of the fireplace, get a drink, and prepare to read for an hour at least.

@semperfi55 That's funny that I ordered a map of the world today (before I saw this review). Saw it in your review, and I was like Damn - I could really class up my photos with if I use that instead of hanging it on the wall.

Your research always amazes me because A. I don't know where you find the time B. I have the time, and could never be bothered...

Another great review. (lume is lacking though in your watches....)

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Gingerskooch

McGilli, if all your watch reviews came in a fancy, hardbacked, designed-to-look-cool-on-a-coffee-table style compendium which cost say £110 each, I would buy one for all my family and friends, plus I'd order five for myself, such is the level of your utter awesomeness. Glaude's reviews on the other hand, I wouldn't take if they were handed out for free. Keep at it big man.

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NCRich

Nice review and watch.  Still prefer my steel on rivet.

aSKioOi.jpg?1

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Glaude
2 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

Glaude's reviews on the other hand, I wouldn't take if they were handed out for free

:finger:

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MAJ75

@semperfi55 Another solid reviewing job,nice work.

It looks superb on the mesh, I've just been looking at Geckota to maybe pick one up for mine (I have the YG version).

Interestingly it is one of my only watches that people have commented on, I probably don't feature it in the rotation enough.

PP3.jpg

PP13.jpg

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RussP

Maybe this thread will inspire some of us to start wearing our watch queens again.

Here's another one that I haven't worn in forever:

30206497767_04629ac016_b.jpg

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blueoysterboy
30 minutes ago, RussP said:

Since you quoted me, it inspired me to trawl through some of my seldom worn watches and post these of the only PP I have on a mesh band:

43330548750_d5537bab42_b.jpg

45142429421_fd2830b37c_b.jpg

Russ, do all the subdials work?  Kinda a thing of mine

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RussP
2 minutes ago, 0ysterboy said:

Russ, do all the subdials work?  Kinda a thing of mine

Absolutely !!

And each of the subdials has recessed pushers in the sides of the case.

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semperfi55
4 hours ago, 0ysterboy said:

Ya know, every time I see a PP rep or gen, something in my teeny brain tells me I have to have one.  But alas, none in my watchbox (yet).

Haha I was in the same situation two months ago, then all the Pateks started coming in :facepalm:

3 hours ago, Alan32 said:

.so why the F.... am I drooling:drool:

There's always that kind of watches. I'm starting to appreciate RM watches which is completely opposite to my tastes.

4 hours ago, Alan32 said:

PS are you aware of the story behind your avatar picture?

&

1 hour ago, BenjaminButton said:

Soviet army on the Reichstag raising the flag.

Indeed but that is actually a wrist check photo :lol:  The soldier supporting the flag bearer is actually pulling a Schwarzkopf-- 1 watch on each wrist. It implies that he might have been looting. Exactly the opposite of what a good communist would do. So the Soviets edited out one of the watches before releasing the pic.

 

45096157822_5234017c5f_m.jpg

 

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semperfi55
1 hour ago, Glaude said:

Another great review ! 

Thanks for taking the time, I'm a hoarder too !

Thanks Glaude. That's alright nothing to be ashamed of :) 

1 hour ago, repmaster1234 said:

That’s a gorgeous watch mate, I have to admit I’m a bit jealous. Great review too. 

Cheers mate :) 

1 hour ago, GingerBlubba said:

Much better review than the normal Glaude/McGilli shite we have to put up with around here. Bravo. Bravo.

Shhhh we agreed: subtle promoting, not this kind of overt shill!

@RussP Very nice pieces you have there! They remind me of my old (not vintage) Ingersoll. I thought it was the fanciest thing ever when I first got it. That was waaaay before I discovered this forum. Still, this sits in the main box with my other top tier/sentimental gens

40502245015_12dc16b572_b.jpg
57 minutes ago, McGilli said:

@semperfi55 That's funny that I ordered a map of the world today (before I saw this review). Saw it in your review, and I was like Damn - I could really class up my photos with if I use that instead of hanging it on the wall.

Your research always amazes me because A. I don't know where you find the time B. I have the time, and could never be bothered...

lol the map was suppose to go up on the wall 2 months ago :rofl: I kept on procrastinating so it's just wrapped up sitting on top of my pile of catalogues...

Hodinkee is your friend ;) But I did have to look up multiple sites for this watch.

48 minutes ago, NCRich said:

Nice review and watch.  Still prefer my steel on rivet.

aSKioOi.jpg?1

Rich you have the knack of turning supposedly luxury pieces into rugged tool watches :lol:

It actually goes really well!

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semperfi55
48 minutes ago, MAJ75 said:

I have the YG version

That looks the business MAJ! I would prefer the YG version, feels like more classical Patek. But I'm content with my RG :) 

 

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McGilli
3 minutes ago, semperfi55 said:

Hodinkee is your friend ;)

I don't go anywhere with the name DINKEE in it. What am I, 3 years old? Oh I gotta work that into my next review...

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semperfi55
3 minutes ago, McGilli said:

I don't go anywhere with the name DINKEE in it. I am a 3 years old Oh I gotta work that into my next review...

With that kind of silly name I initially thought it was some Chinese Replica site :lol: What does it even mean?! Was someone trolling them when they registered the name?

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Bidle

A bit late, but still. Thanks for sharing this nice review. Really like chrono's with two subdials. Seems you really dived into the history of the brand!

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