REVIEW Tudor Harrods Black Bay

[ape 2]

I recently received my first more upscale replica watch. After dipping my toe into the water with a Hulk Regmariner and being impressed for what under $200 could buy, I thought – maybe I should see what increasing the budget might do and purchased a ZF Harrods Black Bay. I had become aware of the Harrods BB while shirking my duties at home, mindlessly scrolling and clicking on watches I could not afford, while my wife was hollering down from the roof asking if I was still holding the ladder. Anyway, the green hue that was used on the bezel really caught my eye, having a military feel that seemed much more palatable than the bling infused Kermit Sub. As I understand it, Harrods is basically like London's version of Target.  

 

So, naturally I helped my wife up from the turf, gave her a frozen bag of peas for her doubtfully fractured ankle, and contacted Andrew from Trusty Time. From first email to arriving at my home took 7 days. This was unbelievable to me, and when I do buy again, it will be from Andrew. 

 

The watch arrived DHL in a plain cardboard box holding inside what I believe has been dubbed, "the burrito" (a dense wrapping of foam and packing tape).  Once that was removed the watch was inside a Ziploc bag, and covered in more plastic than grandma's sofa.  Seriously, I should have pressure tested the watch before and after removing the plastic, as I am sure it lost a few meters of depth afterward. 

 

The case and dimensions

This is supposed to be a 1:1 replica. I assume this means that all measurements of this replica should match with the genuine. The case diameter measures 41mm, 14.8mm thick with crystal, 50mm lug to lug, and 22mm lug width. Or at least that is what one blog reports the genuine measures. I don't have any calipers so I trust that, and it seems pretty close just by eyeballing. Trusty Time lists thickness as 11mm, maybe if the bezel and crystal aren't included, but the whole assembled kit is much thicker than 11mm, believe that. In fact, it is a chunky little piece, and when atop a Nato sits up high and proud. I say proud because it does command attention, and unlike thinner cases doesn't slip easily under a cuff so if you wear it slightly loose on the wrist it will be on display. 

 

The finishing of the case is a blend of contrasting polished and brushed stainless steel. The top edge of the outside of the case has a chamfered edge, which is polished along with the sides of the case. The top of the lugs are brushed, and done so very smoothly, I mean butter smooth and soft. The edges of the case between the lugs, however, are sharp enough to shave with as if they intended to raise a burr. If you have ever maintained a cabinet scraper you should get the idea. This is one disappointment in the finishing, but something I believe I can smooth out on my own – and definitely not a deal breaker. 

 

 

The case back is solid and engraved with "Special Edition," the Harrods "H," "N.35 (on mine)," and other Tudor branding including the name of the genuine movement caliber MT5602. The engraving appears even and legitimate. There are also serial numbers engraved into the underside of both lugs on the 12 o'clock side. I have not held an original Harrods to compare, but it looks the part. 

 

The crown is etched with the Tudor rose on a polished surface, and like the original is fairly thin with a large diameter and knurled edge.  Once the crown is unscrewed it is very easy to grip, however the crown tube is fairly short and takes some care when returning it to the locked down position, I could see potential for cross-threading on a hurried morning. Speaking of the crown tube, this one has a black colored bushing at the base, which is different from other Black Bays that usually match the bezel color to this bushing.

 

Bezel

Oh how a bezel can make or break a watch. There are plenty of examples of how to get this wrong out there, but this is not one of those. The anodized aluminum (Ah-lume-in-um) insert, finished in matte Harrods green, looks subtle and elegant. The lume pip is centered perfectly in the triangle. The bezel turns in a counter-clockwise 60-click direction, and lines up exactly to the corresponding indices on the dial. The click is satisfying and the bezel turns easily, but not too easily. My colleague has a Squale 50 atmos, and that bezel turns whenever he breaks wind (still a beautiful watch though). 

 

 

Dial and Crystal

The dial is matte black with typical submariner style circle, rectangle, and triangle indices all filled with lume. This is a "gilt" dial, so the indices, minute track, text, and hands are finished in gold. The exception in this case is the green text of the depth rating, and the tip of the second hand. I believe I read somewhere that some Harrods reps had not matched the green of the bezel with the green text and green tipped seconds, but it appears a perfect match on this example. Another flaw on this particular watch of mine is a small speck on the ll o'clock lume dot, it doesn't bother me and I noticed it on the QC pics. I assume none of these watches are perfect, so I didn't think it was worth nit picking over it. If I want absolute perfection, then I suppose I better save the $6,000 these limited edition watches can sell for. 

 

My impression of the dial is that it is well executed, with crisp text that is centered as it should be, and appears to have some dimension to the printing. In other words, the text is not level with the dial but stands above it. The lume looks to be applied evenly and not spilling over on any of the markers. The hands are nicely polished gold, and also filled evenly with lume. On very close inspection, it does appear that the edges of the hands have some uneven finishing. Again, if you are looking for perfection then you shouldn't be buying counterfeit watches. 

 

The crystal is reported to be sapphire with AR coating. I have no reason to doubt the sapphire claim, but also have no way of testing it. The AR coating does a good job, and is clear without any flashes of blue. The domed glass gives minimal distortion, and rises nicely above the surrounding bezel. I like a crystal that noticeably sits above the bezel, in fact, I also really like high-domed plexi crystals. I just feel this detail adds more visual interest. 

 

 

Bracelet

OK so to be honest this is pretty much trash. True it has solid end-links and the clasp is nicely done with convincing engraving. I also like the rivet details, and overall finishing of the steel seems nice. But, and this is a big ol BUT. This bracelet has more squeaks than a rent-by-the-hour mattress. Rattles like you just jumped over a chain link fence every time you turn your hand over. I have heard that some folks soak their bracelets in WD-40 to help with squeaks, and maybe that would help. However, I feel like the tolerances on where the end links meet the case are not as tight as they should be, and that this is also a source of some clatter. So I fitted a Brown Maratac Nato and it looks like they were made for each other, and now its quiet as a church mouse. I also have coming in the mail; a dark brown leather strap that I will post pics of once it arrives. 

 

 

Movement

Asian ETA clone. This is my first experience with this movement. I own and have owned many of the Swiss variety. I can say that this one has a nice smooth sweeping second hand, seems to keep great time, and power reserve lasts at least 30-40 hours. I have not opened the case back, even though I read the post on how to clean up a rep upon arrival. I have no idea how many pubic hairs are currently lubricating the movement, so I will update you guys on any future problems. 

 

Overall Impressions

I FUCKING LOVE IT. No seriously, it is a really nice watch, and even with the faults I have mentioned I enjoy the hell out of it. I wouldn't swim in it, and not sure what kind of longevity I can expect. But for $300!?!? Wow. I recently went to local jewelers to look at an Omega Speedmaster (another story), and got to try on and examine a genuine Black Bay. This was not the Harrods model, but all else except for the color ways were the same. I knew going in there that they had these so I studied my rep carefully before going in. Where there differences? Yes. But they were extremely subtle; this is a scary good rep. I feel like possibly the genuine had richer appearing text, and no harsh edges on the case. The crown popped out with more confidence and went back very smoothly. It was also $3000 + dollars. I do want a genuine Black Bay, and I know this because I love the way this rep looks and feels on wrist. I will be saving for one (after the Speedy). But I will also have reps of it in different colors, because it is just that good of a fake. And I don't give any fucks about telling someone my watch is a fake. Just like some old geezer with a real Rolex doesn't care that his erection came from a little blue pill. It still feels good to me. 

 

 

"What an ugly beast the ape, and how like us." – Marcus Tullius Cicero

 

 

 

 

[BM284 1,518]

Nice review  great photos.... it’s going to have to go on the 2019 wish list ffs!!! 

[EBB 25]

Great review, appreciate the comparisons to the gen black bay, I own 79220b, so I'm definitely considering to pick this up to compare to the gen, looks great to me! congratulations !

[solkryssare 109]

Fantastic review! Thanks. 

[Glaude 1,615]

Again a solid, very well pictured, nicely written, review ! 

@ape you are definitely a keeper !

[Luxuracer 14]

Good job ... @ape   

[GingerApple 7,272]

Oh Ape!!!! You continue to knock it out of the park!!!!

I'm going to give you 97/100 for this effort. Absolutely marvellous.

You drop the three points here:

'It's supposed to be a 1:1 replica' - no, no, no. No such thing. TD marketing bs, don't believe a word of it.

Another point gone here;

'Ah-lume-in-um' - no. Just fucking no. I'm tempted to dock you ten points.

Last point goes here;

'I hear some people give the bracelets a bath in WD-40' - Probably true, but stupid. Do however give it a Baby Oil/Mineral Oil bath. Stick the strap in a ziplock bag, drown in baby oil, leave for a day or two, frequently giving the bracelet a good move and wiggle through the ziplock. Then take out, drip dry for a few seconds, then rub dry with kitchen paper, before wrapping in fresh kitchen paper for a day. A quick clean thereafter and it's markedly better. That said, the ZF Tudor bracelets are my least favourite metal bracelets.

So yeah, 97/100, great score.

Actually, I am going to dock ten points for ah-lume-in-um. I just can't let that go. So 88/100.

But on reflection, I'm going to give you 15 bonus points for the carrot picture. That is probably my all time favourite watch picture. Inspired! I trust no carrots were harmed in the making of the picture.

Overall score, 103/100!

It doesn't get much better.

Glaude and McGilli are praising you, but weeping inside.

[Achi79 0]

What a great review 

[Glaude 1,615]

18 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

Glaude and McGilli are praising you, but weeping inside.

[ShovelnTC 31]

Great review, thanks for taking the time.

[ape 2]

49 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

Actually, I am going to dock ten points for ah-lume-in-um. I just can't let that go. So 88/100.

 

Fair enough,  well at least we can agree that letter “Z” is pronounced Zeeee and not that dreaded Zed pronunciation 

Thanks for the kind words and bracelet advice

[GingerApple 7,272]

18 minutes ago, ape said:

Fair enough,  well at least we can agree that letter “Z” is pronounced Zeeee and not that dreaded Zed pronunciation 

You are almost as insufferable as the French.

[Glaude 1,615]

7 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

You are almost as insufferable as the French.

[ape 2]

22 minutes ago, GingerBlubba said:

You are almost as insufferable as the French.

Sacrebleu!

[MOT 0]

Really good review, enjoyed that, thanks for taking the time.  This has made you want the gen, may i ask why? 

[ape 2]

1 minute ago, MOT said:

Really good review, enjoyed that, thanks for taking the time.  This has made you want the gen, may i ask why? 

First of all, excellent profile pic! 

As far as wanting the gen, I suppose it would be because I like the look and feel of the watch enough that I can justify the sacrifice of buying the real deal. It is more refined and definitely water resistant. Can be found gently used for $2000ish. So to me it is worth it. But like I said will still have some reps of it as well. 

[MOT 0]

8 minutes ago, ape said:

First of all, excellent profile pic! 

As far as wanting the gen, I suppose it would be because I like the look and feel of the watch enough that I can justify the sacrifice of buying the real deal. It is more refined and definitely water resistant. Can be found gently used for $2000ish. So to me it is worth it. But like I said will still have some reps of it as well. 

Yeh, completely get it.  Just curious, the WR sounds like a must for you.  You dont want any surprises.  Enjoy it/them/those !!

Ahluminumnumnumnoway

Z has issues too

Edited November 29, 2018 by MOT

[Thommo82 1,397]

A-lu-min-yim

 

 

[judas9r 910]

I wanted a Black Bay, didn't realise I wanted a green one until I read this review.

[GingerApple 7,272]

24 minutes ago, Thommo82 said:

A-lu-min-yim

Who invited the Sheila?

[Thommo82 1,397]

Just now, GingerBlubba said:

Who invited the Sheila?

She’s always about 

[VMSG 2]

Great review, thank you!

[Devil 2,875]

Great review and photos, this watch is on my to buy list. 

[Hattricks 0]

What's the deal with the carrot?