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semperfi55

Review - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26579

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semperfi55

And so, my addiction to Royal Oaks continues unabated...

 

I already have three 15400s and a PVD chronograph 26320. There is something about the octagonal bezel case that appeals to me. Perhaps I'm a Gerald Genta fanboy.Short of a skeleton dial and a tourbillon Royal Oak :Whistle:, there is the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

 

The Watch

Before I talk about the ref 26579 specifically, it might be useful to give a bit more context for this watch. A conventional perpetual calendar watch should be able to take into account leap years and the 29th February issue. The watch would have a day, date and month complication at least. Moonphase displays are also commonly seen in perpetual calendar watches.  Perpetual calendars predate Audemars Piguet--Jules Audemars's pocket watch that marked his watch-making graduation was a perpetual calendar watch!

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Now sit back and reflect on the watch you wore for graduation. Let that sink in. And be ashamed.

 

It has always been fascinating to know that the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and tourbillon predated the invention of a date wheel. 

 

Non-sequitur aside, while perpetual calendars were invented centuries ago, it did not mean that they were everywhere. Prior to the 1950s, Audemars Piguet has only manufactured  a grand total of 208 calendar watches. As in any type of calendar watch, not only perpetual calendars.

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A perpetual calendar with chronograph function, ref 5503, circa 1942.

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Another perpetual calendar: ref 5516, circa 1955

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The ref 5548, produced from 1977-1990 was the most popular and prolific of the AP perpetual calendar watches. It houses a calibre 2120/2800 movement.

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Calibre 2120/2800

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It took more than a decade after the release of the Royal Oak (1972) for a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to be unveiled in 1983. The ref 5554 houses a similar 2120/2802 movement.  Here you can see the dial design retains the aesthetic of perpetual calendars past. The revolutionary Genta case meets the conservative dial composition--it has a smooth dial instead of the characteristic Grande Tapisserie pattern. An time-traveling amalgamation  of two different eras.

Here it is interesting to note that all examples of AP perpetual calendar watches shown above do not have the leap year indicator.  The watches were able to take into account leap years, but they were not displaying that fact. Audemars Piguet in fact pioneered the leap year indicator complication in 1955. The more you know, eh?

In 2015, Audemars Piguet released the ref 26574. This perpetual calendar watch has the conventional date, day, month, year and moonphase complications. On top of that, they added a week complication, displayed in a creative way via a third hand. The elimination of the second hand brings balance and serenity to a very busy dial. A very tasteful design choice indeed. 

dALsX.png

The moon phase astronomical indicator on this watch requires correction every 122 years and 108 days! The watch houses a 5134 Calibre, which is based off the smaller calibre 2120/2802.

In 2017, they released the all-black, all-ceramic ref 26579.

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Yes all-ceramic, including the bracelet. The finishing on the ceramic bracelet takes 5 times longer than the stainless steel equivalent, totaling 30 hours. The lengthier time required for finishing, not to mention R&D time, is reflected in the price.

Ref 26574 (Stainless steel) RRP: GBP 54, 000

Ref 26579 (All-Ceramic) RRP: GBP 83, 100

 

The Rep

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So far, the JF version is the best rep of the Ref 26574 out there. However, the rep has a day/night indicator in lieu of the moonphase, and the white hand week indicator on the gen is a seconds hand on the rep. This is a huge tell due to the incorrect hand stack and that the "week indicator" is constantly moving :rolleyes: Furthermore, there is only one hand in the 12H subdial, with no year indicator. Priced at USD358, that was too many compromises to be worth it. For a bit more, I could get a Blancpain 6654 rep with all functions present, including a proper moonphase and novel under-lug correctors.

 

I decided to shelve my plans for the JF rep, until I could figure out how to mod the hand stack.

Until I found this version for GBP135.50.

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Dimensions

The gen has 41mm diameter and 9.5mm case height.

My watch measured 41.7mm diameter and 12.36mm case height. A rep is never going to be able to match a gen thickness, especially when there are so many complications at play.

 

Dial

With so many functions, this is probably my longest section on the dial yet.

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The Grande Tapisserie dial here is black whereas in the gen it is a subtle slate-grey colour, whatever that is. 

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Interestingly, the gen subdials are smooth, as opposed to the Azuré pattern you see here. The subdial hands are of the same style as the gen, alongside the red "31" of the date subdial at 3H.

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Likewise, the "moonphase" subdial at 6H has a Azuré pattern absent in the gen. Note the "Swiss Made"!

If you have been paying attention, you'll notice that the "moonphase" disc in this pic is different from the first pic of this rep ;) 

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Day subdial at 9H  with Sunday at the top. Again, more unwarranted Azuré.

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At 12H, the month and leap year subdial on this rep is one slight step ahead of the JF version. Still, inaccuracies abound. The longer month hand in the gen is white, with the year hand being steel. It is reversed on the rep. Thankfully, the "L" is on the correct place. In this version, the makers prized form over function. The month hand works, whereas the year hand is simply attached to the month hand. Simple. Crude yet elegant at the same time.

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The inner chapter ring denotes the weeks of the year. As per the gen, the ring shows the even numbers and has week "26" at 6H.

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The watch has uses a stick and baton design for the minute and hour markers. However, the rep subdials are much closer together. In the gen, the 3H and 9H subdials are almost touching the bezel, losing the 3 and 9 hour batons along with some minute markers. These are visible on the rep though, due to the subdial positions.

h0n8h.jpg

This rep version has the correct hand stack. Another form over function triumph! The white "week indicator" hand is attached underneath the hour hand. It moves with the hour hand. As such, it is less mobile than the JF version. It may not be a true week indicator, but at least it's not a fucking seconds hand at the top of the hand stack!

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The white arrow on the"week" hand is fatter on the rep. It could benefit from a shave.

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Another shot of the glorious hand stack.

 

Movement

Here is a reference pic of the gen caseback and rotor.

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The exact movement used in the rep remains a mystery. The subdial composition is reminiscent of a DG3847B or TY2876, but the caseback side of these movements differ from my watch.

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The caseback screws are steel and a different colour from the black case, as per gen. However, the finishing of the words are shallower than the gen.

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Good effort on the rotor detail here! 

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It even replicates the 38 Jewels inscription found on the gen rotor. 

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Caseback removed, the detail on the rotor is further highlighted. The reverse tapisserie motif on the outer edge of the rotor is decently replicated.

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The movement plates itself have no decorations at all. In contrast, the gen has Côtes de Genève stripes on its plates.

hMvgo.jpg

Minor tell: Why is gold (Au) mentioned on a "ceramic" case? :rolleyes: This is clearly just a PVD stainless steel case.

 

Case & Bezel

The PVD stainless steel case is brushed in the same direction as the gen.

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Thankfully the bezel screws are well aligned. It is a steel colour and distinct from the black case, as per gen.

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Somehow, there is lint all over the watch. At normal wrist distance, the case is pure, clean black. The 2H pusher is for the month, 4H is for the date

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Pusher at 8H is for the day.

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Case comparison between the JF V3 15400 and this 26579 rep.

 

Bracelet & Clasp

The brushing on the bracelet is thicker and more obvious than the gen.

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The links have the bevelled edges as per gen. However, the screws for the end links to lugs should not be visible.

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The bracelet has good weight to it.

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The bracelet uses screw pins. 

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In the gen, the clasp is made of titanium. 

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Standard fare detail one should expect on an AP clasp by now.

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Functions

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The rep has day, date, month and day/night indicator complications. The month does not advance when the date moves from 31 to 1. Recessed pushers are available to quickset the day, date and month. The rep comes with the standard ugly day/night indicator. Mine has been improved ;) 

The "year" hand is simply attached to the month hand. The "week" hand is simply attached to the hour hand but in such a  way that replicated a reasonable hand stack. The "week" hand moves with the hour hand.

The watch may have a strong wrist presence, but it has weak lume @McGilli

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Accuracy

If King Charles II had a quartz watch, he would've won the Battle of Worcester and wouldn't have to hide in an oak tree.  We could have got on with the Restoration much faster with less faff.

Buy quartz.

 

Some Assembly Required

If you noticed in the first pic of the rep on here, you will have notice/blinded by the glaring day/night indicator, with the sun sneering at you, the poor, common wannabe collector who cannot afford the gen. The gen moonphase disc is something to behold, with extreme detailing and features a laser micro structured moon laid on a star-studded sky made of aventurine. Whatever aventurine may be.

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Gen moonphase above, don't get confused!

So I decided to take apart my watch, design the disc, print it out and stick it on the existing disc. Simples.

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Or not. It took me a full day to figure out how to remove the watch stem. An embarrassing non-starter to an ambitious plan. @ROLIE was able to point it out to me in mere minutes :notworthy:

Have a pop at figuring out where is the release! A shit version of Where's Wally.

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And the printing press goes live!!!!!!!!!

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I tried my best making the disc as detailed as the gen. Particularly pleased with the detail and colouring of the moons :D Each star is 0.02mm across.

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Result!

 

Overall

This version is the ultimate compromise between form and function. Date, day and month works and can be quickset. Instead of a moonphase, it has a day/night indicator. The year hand and week hand are fake and fixed to other hands. The advantage this version has over the JF version is the price, the presence of the year hand, the week hand is not moving obviously and the correct hand stack. The downside is that, out of the box, it has a very glaring day/night indicator. At least the JF version uses a disc that has a similar aesthetic to the gen, albeit still a day/night indicator. For some people, like @Glaude, the many faux complications is a huge faux pas. For others, this could be a cheaper alternative to the JF rep which has many compromises anyway.

 

Finally, this watch was purchased on Aliexpress. This is a non-TD and therefore mods cannot help you if things go south over there. It is not a recommended way to buy replicas, especially for newcomers. Your mileage may vary with these non-TD sellers and don't expect the same level of service there. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Luxury-Brand-New-Men-Watch-Automatic-Mechanical-GMT-Moon-Phase-Sapphire-Full-Black-Luminous-Blue-Grey/32956404462.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77c54c4dv7ysD3

Note that the seller rebrands all their watches as "Age Girl". But the watch itself should carry whatever brand name they were replicating.

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Glamour shot!

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Funky wristcheck angle for a funky watch.

 

References

https://www.revolution.watch/perpetual-high-the-perpetual-calendar-wristwatches-of-audemars-piguet/

Round o' tags

@AskGinger @McGilli @Luxuracer @NCRich @Drfunsocks @repmaster1234 @paccbet @bdnica @Sanwich @RussP @Logixa@Thommo82 @Chixisigma @mattcraiganon @_DC_ @cugine @Hyjynx

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Thommo82

Thank God you have too much time on your hands 

Bravo

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Jasonbaylee

Semperfi55 thx for this write up! Clap


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Glaude

Another brilliant review, with some work into both the research and the watch itself ! 

Thank you for this nice write up, that was a very interesting read !

Even though I think you already know, but aventurine is a type of gem stone of the quartz family.
Oh and I don't mind faux complications, my pet peeve is the stupid addition of a 24h hand in front of a day/night indicator, but this one doesn't suffer from it, the faux complication are cleverly done and your modding make it pop way more (a bit disappointed that you didn't get into stone lapping and laser etching to make it like gen, but heh... :D )

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semperfi55
24 minutes ago, Thommo82 said:

Thank God you have too much time on your hands 

All the goats have been sold in Armenia— loads of time, not much rep money tho

21 minutes ago, Jasonbaylee said:

Semperfi55 thx for this write up! Clap emoji122.png

Cheers mate :)

19 minutes ago, Glaude said:

Even though I think you already know, but aventurine is a type of gem stone of the quartz family.


(a bit disappointed that you didn't get into stone lapping and laser etching to make it like gen, but heh... :D )

Neeeeeeeerrrrrrddddd

(I genuinely didn’t know, couldn’t be bothered to find out what aventurine was)

In that case, this could count as a quartz watch then ;)

LOL don’t give me ideas, fucker.

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Glaude
7 minutes ago, semperfi55 said:

(I genuinely didn’t know, couldn’t be bothered to find out what aventurine was)

But you were bothered enough to check whether this was a "Petite tapisserie" (AP RO Tourbi) , "Grande tapisserie" or even "Mega tapisserie" (AP Divers) ... tss tss tss, what a terrible reviewer you make ... :D 

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semperfi55
Just now, Glaude said:

But you were bothered enough to check whether this was a "Petite tapisserie" (AP RO Tourbi) , "Grande tapisserie" or even "Mega tapisserie" (AP Divers) ... tss tss tss, what a terrible reviewer you make ... :D 

Well, I was hungry. Tapisserie reminded me of patisserie. So I had to check that. Plus can’t let that Illustrated Dictionary go to waste ;) 

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Glaude
3 minutes ago, semperfi55 said:

Well, I was hungry. Tapisserie reminded me of patisserie. So I had to check that. Plus can’t let that Illustrated Dictionary go to waste ;) 

The variation of Tapestry aren't specified in it, but I'll correct that soon ;) 

Let my croissant brothers alone ! 

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RussP

Thanks for tagging me.

I would most likely not have stumbled across this review, otherwise.

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Dr Fun Socks

Dude you are killing it on the reviews! I had a very similar version to this in rose gold on a black pleather strap, if it was on a bracelet id probably still have it. I think in terms on value for money/wrist presence its a fantastic watch. How did you go about printing your subdial? Great effort mate!

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BenjaminButton

Excellent review. Thorough and sane just the way I like ‘em. However this is in the wrong place - as an Alliexpress purchase and review this should be in the VIP AliExpress/DHgate mess section.

 

 

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paccbet

Man, I love these in depth reviews! Lookwise they are cool but a tad big for me.

10 hours ago, semperfi55 said:

 

dBw5s.jpg

You reckon there are any reps of this instead?  :giggle:

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cugine

my man!  what an excellent, detailed write up on a beautiful watch.  Best of luck with it pal.  Thanks for tagging me...always appreciate that.  

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Luxuracer

You moved the mark up a bit with this one @semperfi55

Not only you found a rep with 'correct' handstacks, you also did the moonphase disc yourself. 

57fa883dead8c7363abf4cb315b587d8.gif

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bdnica

You always come up with these great 'finds'!  Cool, unusual stuff at great prices.  The reviews are likewise awesome, but simply a bonus!  You put me on to the quartz 15202 which remains not only the most cost-effective purchase made to date, but also now a favorite 'go to' watch.  Keep it up my brother!

Also totally impressed with the skill set demonstrated by fabricating and replacing the moon phase disc.  A versatile renaissance man it seems!  But I give up on the stem release quiz... can you point it out for the slower students?   Does it appear/disappear depending on the stem's position?

Not to deviate from the topic at hand, but as an AP fan did you see their SIHH release of the new Code 11.59 Series?  Reaction seems to be polarizing... love it  or hate it.  Personally, I like the fact they're doing something that's NOT a Royal Oak and especially like the 3 hand and especially the Perpetual Calendar.

 

 

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Glaude
2 hours ago, bdnica said:

I like the fact they're doing something that's NOT a Royal Oak and especially like the 3 hand and especially the Perpetual Calendar

Agree with that, but I fail to see something really that interesting in this watch, it's like they stopped mid design and told themselves "Heh that's good enough for a non RO"
The only one that stand out is indeed the Perpetual calendar

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bdnica
1 hour ago, Glaude said:

Agree with that, but I fail to see something really that interesting in this watch, it's like they stopped mid design and told themselves "Heh that's good enough for a non RO"
The only one that stand out is indeed the Perpetual calendar

The more I look at them, the more I tend to agree with you... seems like they got the case and movement done, then sort of tossed out a dial.  It doesn't have any real identity or unique design aspect.  And starting at $25k you'd expect something that stands out.  I'm not ready to hate them yet.  But the more I look the less exciting they become (the perpetual calendar notwithstanding), and I really like AP so am trying hard to get excited.

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semperfi55
20 hours ago, Glaude said:

The variation of Tapestry aren't specified in it, but I'll correct that soon ;) 

I actually didn’t know the tourby uses a petit tapisserie dial, embarrassing considering my tourby thread :blush:

20 hours ago, RussP said:

Thanks for tagging me.

I would most likely not have stumbled across this review, otherwise.

No you wouldn’t have :lol: Too busy collecting opulent gold watches!

17 hours ago, Drfunsocks said:

How did you go about printing your subdial? Great effort mate!

Hah of course you have one too ;) The moon disc was simply printed on A4 sticker paper and then cut out. Not a high end printer either, just popped into Snappy Snaps for a print. 

16 hours ago, BenjaminButton said:

 However this is in the wrong place - as an Alliexpress purchase and review this should be in the VIP AliExpress/DHgate mess section.

Ze must be order!! :lol:

Tbh I forgot Aliexpress was part of that section, I only see/think DHgate when I read that section. Says a lot about my state of mind!

11 hours ago, paccbet said:

Man, I love these in depth reviews! Lookwise they are cool but a tad big for me.

You reckon there are any reps of this instead?  :giggle:

:drool:A man can dream, can’t he?

10 hours ago, cugine said:

  Thanks for tagging me...always appreciate that.  

No problem mate, knew you would appreciate another Royal Oak ;) 

8 hours ago, Luxuracer said:

You moved the mark up a bit with this one @semperfi55

Not only you found a rep with 'correct' handstacks, you also did the moonphase disc yourself. 

57fa883dead8c7363abf4cb315b587d8.gif

Cheers Lux!! :bow: I like the quotations :rofl:

4 hours ago, bdnica said:

But I give up on the stem release quiz... can you point it out for the slower students?   Does it appear/disappear depending on the stem's position?

Not to deviate from the topic at hand, but as an AP fan did you see their SIHH release of the new Code 11.59 Series?  Reaction seems to be polarizing... love it  or hate it.  Personally, I like the fact they're doing something that's NOT a Royal Oak and especially like the 3 hand and especially the Perpetual Calendar.

 

It is only visible with the crown in normal position. 

jxNZD.jpg

Press on that and the stem just came out.

Haven’t had a chance to look at all the new offerings! My god, the Perpetual Calendar dial is basically the moonphase disc extended!!! Love it! Less of a fan of the chrono or 3 hander though. It feels neither here nor there. The 3 hander reminds me of a VC Overseas.

For a rose gold case black dial chrono, I prefer the Zeppelin 100 Jahre Chronograph 7676-2. For me, that watch dial gets it right. 

Another chrono dial that I prefer is the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Triple Calendar (old version). 

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semperfi55
2 hours ago, Glaude said:

Agree with that, but I fail to see something really that interesting in this watch, it's like they stopped mid design and told themselves "Heh that's good enough for a non RO"
The only one that stand out is indeed the Perpetual calendar

@bdnica Replied to your comment being seeing his reply. Literally, what he said...

 

55 minutes ago, bdnica said:

 And starting at $25k you'd expect something that stands out.  I'm not ready to hate them yet.  But the more I look the less exciting they become (the perpetual calendar notwithstanding), and I really like AP so am trying hard to get excited.

 Bollocks to that! The Zenith gen is less than £5k and the Zeppelin can be had for less than £300.

Big fan of AP but agree with the need for less reliance on the Royal Oak series. Would love more Jules Audemars though! What’s your take on the AP15500? My instinct was to dislike it, but that might be due to my bias for vintage/older versions of things.

 

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bdnica
12 hours ago, semperfi55 said:

@bdnica Replied to your comment being seeing his reply. Literally, what he said...

 

 Bollocks to that! The Zenith gen is less than £5k and the Zeppelin can be had for less than £300.

Big fan of AP but agree with the need for less reliance on the Royal Oak series. Would love more Jules Audemars though! What’s your take on the AP15500? My instinct was to dislike it, but that might be due to my bias for vintage/older versions of things.

 

Can't really see much difference between the 15500 and 15400 just looking at the stock photos... need to see a side-by-side comparison.  As I understand, there are some tweaks to the movement and minor dial tweaks.  No major changes, just some updates.  Which is fine so long as it's not just an excuse to raise prices!   I think the 38mm RO chronos they introduced are a great move and will do well.   So far, I think JLC has shown up with some of the coolest new/updated pieces.

I'm trying really hard to find positives to the Code 11.59.  The case is pretty cool and different... the octagon shape is there, and the different levels of finish are nicely done on the case.  And I'm anxious to hear feedback from the movement geeks as to this new caliber.  But then I get to the $25k entry level price for the 3 hander and lose the beat completely.  I'll be amazed if they fly out of the boutiques at that price. 

Hey, if I had @Glaude level money, than it wouldn't matter.  Just another acquisition out of petty cash.  Unfortunately, price is always a factor for me with these sorts of purchases and there's a shit-ton of watches I'd buy at that price point before one of these.

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Glaude
18 minutes ago, bdnica said:

Hey, if I had @Glaude level money, than it wouldn't matter.  Just another acquisition out of petty cash.

:lmao: 

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