Jump to content
semperfi55

Showcase - Jean d'Eve Sectora Double Retrograde Watch

Recommended Posts

semperfi55

As the resident horological addict for the weird and wonderful, I continue to seek out odd pieces alongside my conventional APs and Rolexes.

The fascination with odd ways to tell time started with my mother's watch--A Gerald Genta watch with jumping hours and retrograde minute hand. The actual watch is tucked in a safe somewhere, therefore you may enjoy a stock image:

VTYYTa.png

Disclaimer: It's a quartz.

Nonetheless, I love how the hand slowly creeps toward the other end of the dial, flicks back to zero and  to continue again on its hourly march. That rapid, near-instantaneous flicker a stark contrast to the delicate nature of the watch. Those who enjoy the instantaneous date change at midnight will surely appreciate  the beauty of such a mechanism.

This led me to buy the replica Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Bi-Retrograde Day Date:

44732807901_b84739743e_b.jpg

But, alas,  this automatic watch, is but a replica. And as a replica, it has a functioning retrograde date hand with a faux day hand! 

Behold: the Tuesdays watch.

You have your Speedy Tuesdays; I have my VC Tuesdays  :tea:

 

Although the VC is a beautiful watch, the glued-on day hand is a constant reminder of how I have not found the true retrograde watch. I must continue on my search!

 

The Watch

On one unassuming day, a day so boring I cannot recall the date nor day (perhaps I need more functioning calendar watches), I found this whilst scrolling mindlessly through eBay.

F8059-FD4-D46-D-4364-9-BBF-A70-BFD67-F68

You hear angles singing as the case opens...

2-CB61-F01-9-CC1-4-ADF-AD48-ECD8-B69326-

Watch came with the full box and papers.

14-E83366-A387-4933-8-EE9-08920353-EE0-B

Nifty little bits and bobs.

C560676-B-81-CB-4-F4-F-B7-BB-9-DACBC2452

I have no idea with the GBP vs EUR discrepancy on this tag. May well be prophetic of our Sterling post-Brexit :fear:

Rest assured I paid way waaaay less than  any of those figures  :D 

7-E331725-D144-4-A41-AA21-6-BCC2-B4-C61-

 

65-B7-ACD5-CCF3-4476-B565-D430-BDA0-EA48

 

8-A98-E92-D-8-A93-4570-821-A-97-FEDD4936

 

8-A3-ACE2-E-483-E-4-B4-C-8-DB7-432-F5-C1

 

Jean d'Eve

Before we go any further, who is this John of the Eve? It is not a name one hears often, or at all even.

Its watchmaking roots can be found back in 1867 when a Charles Barbezat-Baillot partnered up with a Henry Guye to form Guye & Barbezat in Le Locle. In 1888, and following Mr Guye's death, the company name had become C. Barbezat-Baillot and manufacturing products branded La Locloise.  In 1905, the company became Manufacture d'Horlogerie Le Phare. The company produced and marketed its own watches, but also manufactured movements for other companies. They were producing minute repeaters, calendar watches, chronographs, and split-second chronographs.

Le-Phare-1920.jpg

Unlike its present incarnation, Le Phare did not fly under the radar. It won gold medals at the Universal Exhibition in Paris (1889 and 1900) and in Liege (1905). Why did it win medals? No idea, I could not find further details and that was a s much the company site would provide. Furthermore, a number of sources claim that Mr Barbezat-Baillot invented the silent regulator for repeater watches. What does this all mean? The traditional minute repeater has an anchor governor/anchor regulator which regulates the speed at which the mechanism chimes. The anchor regulator itself produces noise and depending on your point of view, interferes with/adds to the charm of the repeater chimes. Silent regulators today are centrifugal regulators, the mechanism of which you can read in this link referenced below. Seiko Credor also invented their unique regulator based off a system of different air pressures, read more in link below.

Back to dear old John of Eve: claims substantiated or otherwise, Le Phare appeared to be an emerging player in the Swiss watch industry. because in 1915 Zenith bought a majority stake within Le Phare to acquire their know-how. Indeed, a French site dedicated to Zenith's history looks into how Le Phare movements were incorporated into Zenith watches.  Further information below.

By 1970, Le Phare had become the 2nd largest Swiss producer of chronographs (claim). And here things get even murkier: Jean d'Eve was established in 1981 and was merged with Le Phare in 1984 to form Le Phare Jean d'Eve S.A. To its credit, prior to the Le Phare merger, Jean d'Eve had already unveiled the Sectora Collection which features a novel double retrograde system to tell time. These were quartz watches. In 1996, it released the Sectora Automatic which featured an automatic movement powering the double retrograde watch.

4a6d51a8-39d4-11e4-8cd3-a374120a5ea1.jpg

In addition to these watches, they also produced quartz-automatic watches, in the Samara Collection.

2980748e-xxl.jpg

Credits to @Glaude for assisting with the French articles. Otherwise, it would have been painful to digest this many croissants by myself. Merci!

 

References:

https://www.invenitetfecit.com/modeles/chronographes-poche-neuchatel.html

https://www.revolution.watch/horology-301-an-incomplete-introduction-to-the-minute-repeater/?archive

https://sites.google.com/site/zenithistoric/zenith-et-les-complications

https://gevrilgroup.com/jean-deve-watches/

https://www.jeandeve.ch/en/brand.php

Back to my watch!

 

Dimensions

Lug-to-Lug: 32mm

Case Width: 25mm

Case Height: 7mm

It is a tiny watch for tiny..............er....I apply the Inverse-Square  Law between watch size and masculinity, yeah, totes.

32394599-F6-C5-404-D-AFB7-CD15-D75-E3249

 

Dial

Let us now explore the novelties of this dial!

A762-EC08-4-F94-4-EFD-99-B6-E6560-C28-F7

It is a white dial in the shape of a near-complete semicircle. The midline of the semicircle is broken up by the casing which hides the pinion for the hands.  

F1427992-8-E80-4-CB3-A333-7-C3-FE68-FB03

At the top part of the dial you can see the branding, in its trademark cursive script. A very miniature font in an already very tiny watch.

2-F60-F756-BD88-4-C10-BAC8-DBD76-A144562

The 150-degree outer track consists of the hour numerals bounded by grey quadrilaterals, with numeral orientation switching at "7". The script has a very playful character and suits well with the unconventional display concept of this piece. In addition, the asymmetry in size within each numeral (compare top and bottom of each number) matches the asymmetry of the case as a whole too.  The monotony of the black hour numerals is broken up by the red "0", "6" and "12". 

The inner red chemin de fer minute scale contrasts well with the black minute numerals. The even slab-serif font of the minute numerals is the conservative counterpart to the whimsical nature of the  hour numerals. Again, the numeral orientation switches at the 7 o'clock mark. The 5-minute intervals between numerals balances legibility and spacing.

0-EA6-E636-22-FD-4-D17-8-F6-F-E6-D27552-

A simple "SWISS" says it all. But how much of it is actually Swiss made? :unsure:

It seems like almost every manufacturer employs the same minimalist font for the "SWISS' or "SWISS MADE" print. This piece is no exception!

ED258485-A0-E5-4-B3-E-9-C71-7-FF8-A796-E

A view from a rather awkward angle, just so the reader can catch a glimpse of the magic. The black hour hand, which looks like the spade in playing cards, sits above the red leaf minute hand. A rather unusual hand stack compared to the conventional minute over hour hand sequence.

5-AB93-F15-D732-4114-9-C91-9-C6971-F4-DC

I like to think the overall dial aesthetic evokes the style of a blackjack table. It has the same black and red colour contrast of playing cards; the rounded corners of the grey rectangles again reminds me of cards; the spade-shaped hour hand; and not to mention the overall semicircle shape. 

 

Movement

As is the case with most of my beloved gens, I am too cowardly to open up the case, very much the opposite to my gung-ho approach with reps.

F56-C6-A2-B-1450-42-C5-9149-ABCA4-C5-CCE

The Collection name is engraved on the snap-on caseback.

A51291-D7-2-F3-B-4-D6-E-B030-1-A5-D749-A

But here is a snap of a similar listing which generously shows the quartz movement within.  A 7-jewel movement which Jean d'Eve claims to be made in-house.

 

Case

From researching online, the case is stainless steel with 20 microns of gold plating. The watch was sold to be as "New Old Stock" (Make of it what you will) and the casing does not show any signs of wear at all. Any greyish dullness you see is due to the reflections.

3328-F515-3874-4057-A4-CB-D5-EE62-F95844

The watch case uses a consistent rounded double step design, including in the lugs. 

BB6-E448-A-A915-4024-A779-52-D7-E450-B91

There are few sharp edges on the case. The rounded gold steps give off an air of soft opulence; a watch not for everyday wear (Also advisable due to the delicate nature of the mechanism!), but for special occasions. And likely for women too :lol:

641793-E9-FDFE-45-CE-96-DF-96-C190-FE8-D

Above the crown, a rounded crown guard tries to minimise the break in the crescent. Despite this, the crown is easy to manipulate as there is room below it.

8-FBBC443-5-C68-4-C85-994-D-D6-C9-ED9-BC

Despite the unusual appearance of the lugs, it actually employs a bog standard spring bar system underneath.

B77-C25-E0-0129-43-D2-AF9-A-C6-CA6936024

The extrusion on the crescent side beautifully conceals its practical function: without the extrusion, there will be no "lug" on the crescent side to hold the spring bar.

0-F7-A1421-B005-4947-A612-5989-E58-AC478

From below, you can see the standard spring bar system.

 

Strap & Buckle

Initially, I did abhor the gaudy strap that came with the watch. It reminded me too much that I was wearing quite possibly a women's watch!

0-C17-FD90-F544-4047-A2-C1-61549-F770-CE

The red strap goes with the red numerals on the dial. It has an odd double rib within the strap which I am unfamiliar with.

B17-F3503-91-E5-49-BC-A32-C-230-CC87-A4-

The strap is soft and overall, comfortable to wear. I have also grown to appreciate the rich pink/red tone of the leather.

B9-AE0497-0-B57-4-B1-F-81-EA-DBDF61-FC54

The strap comes with a signed gold plated buckle.

0762-A096-4583-477-E-ADE4-696-EAE29-A43-

Original markings; a pleasant surprise!

560-F3-C90-41-E9-4-F7-D-B572-85-CCC2-C9-

While I did contemplate a sombre black leather strap for the watch, I have come to like this strap. A black strap would have killed the lightness and frivolity of this piece!

 

Functions

As with most of my gen watches again, I hesitate to remove the movement out of the case, even for such an interesting piece. It is difficult to visualise the actual pinion holding the watch hands as they are well-hidden deep inside the triangle.

C48-D0468-193-A-473-F-9-CC8-8473-B2-E3-F

In the photo above, the watch indicates 4:59. It is hard to see that is the case due to the angle of the photo;parallax error comes into play. The hour hand is practically hovering above 5 o'clock already. Unlike the Franck Muller Crazy Hours, the hour hand does advance gradually through the hour.

7-E37-DBC9-C215-4790-9-FEC-40-D1-C539-DA

In this photo, the minute hand has jumped back to 0 on the other side of the dial.

6-AA615-AB-D915-44-D1-9102-AD69181-CDF4-

Another dismal attempt to capture the pinion. I give up for the day...

 

Overall

Although I am 85% sure now that this is a women's watch, I still enjoy wearing this watch very much, and ultimately that is all that matters. It is a major entry to my Odd Watches Section thanks to its unique mechanism. Its striking design is tempered by its petite dimensions. I have finally found the double retrograde watch I wanted :D 

08454451-C605-45-CE-A2-BE-7-B8-A8383-A8-

 

4938-B0-A6-1756-43-A2-B0-A0-E42-D1414-D2

 

CE55-D1-D5-269-C-4-F73-84-D7-DAB1-E85148

 

EBD0-D812-3-F15-41-E6-8-F0-B-7-D2905-CC8

Finally: the quintessential wristshot!

AC836-E6-F-A0-A2-49-BB-8892-96-CFEF0881-

A watch that you (or your partner) might like ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Glaude

Finaly a piece that fits your wrist ! See Baby wrist "Logixa" that's what you need ! :lol:

Awesome write up as always my friend !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NCRich

I had admired that watch in previous wristies.  Fantastic writeup!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Xpletiv

I don't know about anyone else, but all of the images are really TALL!!

But the watch is still awesome. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GenTLe

I like it.
On her it should look perfect ;)

Forever-21-Oh-La-La-Cheri-Lingerie-Set.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Logixa

@semperfi55 again a lovely in depth review mate, i take my hat of for you :clap:

@Glaude when is te Frexit coming up? i cant wait to shoot you fuckers into space :rofl:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Drfunsocks

Thats a cool piece! You really do have some sweet ass complications going on in your collection mate. Ive got an als rep dual time double retrograde seconds, it is awesome to just watch. Complicated as hell but ive done something to the keyless and havent had it fixed yet. Still runs if you shake it but cant set the time :( doubt any watch maker would touch it though...

VT4la6.jpg
VT4fNs.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Drfunsocks

Not sure if it will work but i tried making a gif because a picture doesnt do it much justice

VTa0Vr.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
semperfi55
17 hours ago, Glaude said:

Finaly a piece that fits your wrist !

Now getting good results searching the women's section :lol:

16 hours ago, NCRich said:

Fantastic writeup!

Cheers Rich :)

8 hours ago, GenTLe said:

On her it should look perfect ;)

Only thing she would need, I agree. The only thing ;)

5 hours ago, Logixa said:

lovely in depth review mate

Thanks Logixa, I only wanted to do a brief dig into the brand as it was unfamiliar,but it was quite a rabbit hole.

Thats a cool piece! You really do have some sweet ass complications going on in your collection mate. Ive got an als rep dual time double retrograde seconds, it is awesome to just watch. Complicated as hell but ive done something to the keyless and havent had it fixed yet. Still runs if you shake it but cant set the time :( doubt any watch maker would touch it though...

VT4la6.jpg

@Drfunsocks Maaate I swear you have all the pieces I want. First the VC 1955 then the AP RO Dual Time, now you whip this out casually?! I bet it's a rep you bought 5-6 years ago then? No way they're still making these.

The gif is not working, keep trying, I want to see :MoneyEyes: 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
semperfi55
15 hours ago, Xpletiv said:

but all of the images are really TALL!!

Lol just noticed this problem on my iPhone. If you're on a mobile device, you'll need to turn your device to landscape/horizontal  orientation, the photos should turn up fine.

First time I have this problem. Might be because I'm using imgbb recently in view of the picr.me update.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Drfunsocks

VTa0Vr.gif

Thats how i roll man, just casually whip it out on a friday haha. I got it about 2 years ago from a guy across the pond. Honestly its not the highest quality rep but man that retro grade seconds is cool as hell! Never seen another rep like it. If this gif doesnt work click it and hopefully it will take you to a working version. Let me know, i suck with technology and im pretty amazed i even made a gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Glaude

That's so fun to watch ! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
semperfi55
35 minutes ago, Drfunsocks said:

that retro grade seconds is cool as hell!

Wow so when it gets to 30 seconds the first second hand goes back to zero, and the other seconds hand takes over from 31-60th second on another scale?! Madness!

What's the third hand in the centre for? Above what I presume is the hour and minute hands.

I'm assuming the topmost hands (closest to 12 o'clock) are faux?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Drfunsocks
1 hour ago, semperfi55 said:

Wow so when it gets to 30 seconds the first second hand goes back to zero, and the other seconds hand takes over from 31-60th second on another scale?! Madness!

What's the third hand in the centre for? Above what I presume is the hour and minute hands.

I'm assuming the topmost hands (closest to 12 o'clock) are faux?

So the small hand above the centre hours and mins is another regular seconds. The top is an independently settable dual time. Ive honestly never seen so many working hands on a rep haha. Honestly as a watch its hard to read, but as watch porn its up there with the best of them :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×