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Cigarlvr313

My First Watch Build

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GingerApple
15 minutes ago, GenTLe said:

No, you were right. I'm not familiar with low-end movement based Rolexes, so I think it is a good idea to check if the numbers are centered in the date window in the dial before to move on. They probably are fine but better to check anyway while at the beginning of the build.

Ahhhh, thanks. A helpful member of the forum. A true credit. Unlike some.....

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Cigarlvr313

Since this build kit doesn't come with instructions (lol) I've been trying to figure out logically how the "extra" gear that was supplied with the movement fits into the equation and I think I finally understand. It must be the gear that moves the "extra" or "red" hand? Let me know what you guys think? Does is matter which way the "wavy" washer sits on the gear? And I am listening to your comments, I will try to set the face on the movement to see how the date numbers line up in the window. Thanks everyone................hmmmm I cant seem to post pics?

Edited by Cigarlvr313
trying to add pics

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NCRich
1 hour ago, Cigarlvr313 said:

Since this build kit doesn't come with instructions (lol) I've been trying to figure out logically how the "extra" gear that was supplied with the movement fits into the equation and I think I finally understand. It must be the gear that moves the "extra" or "red" hand? Let me know what you guys think? Does is matter which way the "wavy" washer sits on the gear? And I am listening to your comments, I will try to set the face on the movement to see how the date numbers line up in the window. Thanks everyone................hmmmm I cant seem to post pics?

Well, you tried one of the more difficult things to build right out of the gate.  The extra "gear" fits on top of the pinion and is kept in tension by the little brass washer.  That keeps it in contact  with the driving gear on the dial, which also drives the calendar function.  Your date is not going to show correctly in your date window on the dial because you need a date wheel overlay to mimic the rolex date wheel.  There is a 1675 tutorial in my signature that might help you.

For others, start your first build with a no date, 3 hand watch.  :lol:

 

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SCShrek

Points given for going for it off the bat! 

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GenTLe
21 hours ago, Cigarlvr313 said:

Since this build kit doesn't come with instructions (lol) I've been trying to figure out logically how the "extra" gear that was supplied with the movement fits into the equation and I think I finally understand. It must be the gear that moves the "extra" or "red" hand? Let me know what you guys think? Does is matter which way the "wavy" washer sits on the gear? And I am listening to your comments, I will try to set the face on the movement to see how the date numbers line up in the window. Thanks everyone................hmmmm I cant seem to post pics?

Well, there is one DG3804 that has that thing on top, but it also has different gears that aren't visible on yours:

rBVaSFs8dXSAdAnEAAKrS9gKMJ0760.jpg

 

Oh, maybe I understood: the 2 extra gears visible here upper at date 28 and 29 may be the ones to regulate the GMT hand. Yours maybe lacks of this feature, meaning you can't adjust the GMT hour and it's fixed at a specific rate respect the hour hand.

 

 

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Cigarlvr313

I read your 1675 tutorial Rich and it is very informative.......thank you for calling my attention to it. I might have "gotten lucky" today because when I fitted the dial face to my movement the date window seems to line up. I did install the extra "gear" or drive sprocket and also the wavy tension washer. Let me know what you think? Is it ready to set the hands?

KEHEs.jpg KE3t3.jpg KEZSE.jpg KEzen.jpg

 

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Cigarlvr313

After looking at the pics I've decided to loosen the locking screws and adjust the fit slightly.

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BC1221

I’m no pro on GMTs but isn’t that the gears that sets the 24hr hand?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Cigarlvr313

I'm certainly not either but I believe it is yes, I also believe that will be the first hand that I set (install). As I understand it from the owners manual that hand makes one complete 360 revolution every 24 hrs. I'm guessing that I can install it pointing at any full hour mark?

KN8Ik.jpg

 

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Cigarlvr313

Well I decided to continue on today and set the 24 hour hand and the Hour and Minute hands........it all seemed pretty straight forward and so far I'm pleased with my results. I also gained a little more experience removing and replacing the winding stem.

KxEsE.jpg KxRZn.jpg Kxvht.jpg Kx7n2.jpg

 

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Cigarlvr313
On 09/11/2019 at 11:37, NCRich said:

There is a 1675 tutorial in my signature that might help you. 

I tried removing my bezel the way that you recommended in your tutorial using the razor blade and the case back knife but I cannot get it to even budge a little, I'm afraid I'm going to bend the knife.......any ideas of why it is so difficult to move? The bezel turns freely but is tight........

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NCRich
31 minutes ago, Cigarlvr313 said:

I tried removing my bezel the way that you recommended in your tutorial using the razor blade and the case back knife but I cannot get it to even budge a little, I'm afraid I'm going to bend the knife.......any ideas of why it is so difficult to move? The bezel turns freely but is tight........

You do not have a BP factory case.  Your gmt is from Yuki.  I don't know how its put together.

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Cigarlvr313

I'm not sure either but the one thing I can say is that it's not designed to come off easily! I really wanted to swap that bezel out for an older looking style..........oh well I'll keep working with what I've bought. It's all a good learning experience.

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GingerApple

Maybe take a close up photo, side on, so we can see where the bezel meets the case. I bet you just need to  force it more with the case knife, a bit of oomph!

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Popperini

Sounds like the bezel might be held in place by one of those big wire “circlip” thingies, in which case you either need to get a thin blade (like a scalpel) in between the bezel or crystal and the insert and gently coax the insert out, or pop the crystal out - which makes getting to the insert easier. Once the insert is removed, the thin wire circlip thingy is revealed and can be prised out with that scalpel or little screwdriver.

Or it might not be this at all. But whenever I’ve had a vintage rep that has a bezel that won’t budge, it’s been because it’s made like wot I just (badly) described.


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Fletcher

This looks great Paul.

I'm really new to all this.

I've just got my first 1680 Red Sub delivered from MR and now looking to collect all the bits and pieces to play with it.

Good luck with the build!

Edited by Fletcher

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NCRich
1 hour ago, TheGingerFerret said:

Maybe take a close up photo, side on, so we can see where the bezel meets the case. I bet you just need to  force it more with the case knife, a bit of oomph!

Do not listen to this advice.

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GingerApple
12 minutes ago, NCRich said:

Do not listen to this advice.

Lots and lots of force. Loads. Never fails.

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Cigarlvr313

I put the seconds hand on today and I think I'll wind it up and let it run for a bit.

Edited by Cigarlvr313
trying to add pics

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Cigarlvr313

hKSR3.jpg

 

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Cigarlvr313

For better or for worse here it is. I've pried about as hard......and maybe a bit to hard........it wont budge........I'll probably just leave it alone.

hKJsD.jpg hKx9Y.jpg hKbKs.jpg

 

And a few more.............

hhDTJ.jpg hKcDk.jpg hKgqo.jpg

 

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NCRich

Yeah, betcha the bezel is secured with a spring clip and the plexi is glued in.  I wouldn't mess with it.

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Nikosaldente
1 hour ago, Cigarlvr313 said:

I'm not sure either but the one thing I can say is that it's not designed to come off easily! I really wanted to swap that bezel out for an older looking style..........oh well I'll keep working with what I've bought. It's all a good learning experience.

 

54 minutes ago, n0bby said:

Sounds like the bezel might be held in place by one of those big wire “circlip” thingies, in which case you either need to get a thin blade (like a scalpel) in between the bezel or crystal and the insert and gently coax the insert out, or pop the crystal out - which makes getting to the insert easier. Once the insert is removed, the thin wire circlip thingy is revealed and can be prised out with that scalpel or little screwdriver.

Or it might not be this at all. But whenever I’ve had a vintage rep that has a bezel that won’t budge, it’s been because it’s made like wot I just (badly) described.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

24 minutes ago, NCRich said:

Do not listen to this advice.

I encountered the same problem with my Tempus Machina....

No matter how hard I tried or what tool I  used, the Bezel wouldn't budge...

The reason was the situation that n0bby described...

Remove the insert and Underneath it you'll find an octagonal spring holding the Bezel into place.

Yours  since it's a vintage case, might have a different click spring than the new Ceramic cases.

Check out the photos for reference:

Removal of the insert and what's underneath:

20190907-171401.jpg

Try to pry it out with a pair of tweezers or a small screwdriver:
20190907-202215.jpg

After that, you simply lift it off..Don't lose the click spring!

That 2 little balls are balls of lint stuck between the click spring and the Bezel making it bidirectional and not unidirectional...
20190907-202512.jpg

Click spring in place and case cleaned :D
20190907-202524.jpg

Finished:

20191010-135103.jpg

 

 

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Cigarlvr313

Thanks Rich..........I guess I'd better just build what I bought.

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Nikosaldente
1 minute ago, NCRich said:

Yeah, betcha the bezel is secured with a spring clip and the plexi is glued in.  I wouldn't mess with it.

I second that!

Leave it as it is and if you want, try to give it a vintage look by bleaching it!

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