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SCShrek

Attempt #2 at modding: Sub 6204

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SCShrek

Here's my second attempt at modding a cheapie MR vintage special. I will share some things I learned from the first experience. Thanks goes to Rich and his post here as would have never touched a watch without some guidance.

First, the watch:

The case: The first watch, I smoothed the hard edges but with this one, I was going for the true chamferred  look.  Sanded with 320/600/1500 grit and polished.  I used tape on the lugs to keep the brushing intact on the top of the lugs; something i neglected to do on my first build. Lug holes drilled for 2mm bars using a 1.3mm bit. More on the case later.

The plexi: Replaced the BP with a Clark tropic 19. Used a bit of hypo to keep it in place.

The dial: aged a bit. I was good with the factory lume after I aged the dial. I may try to match the hands later

The bezel: A few seconds under the butane torch and the oxidation made it a wonderful brassy color

The insert: OMG, I don't know what they are making these things out of. I hit it with acetone to remove any kind of clear coat it may have and bleached it, then hot bleach, then bleach in the sunlight...the insert laughed audibly at me. So, I thought, if I can't get it faded, maybe some heat will turn it that brown color, so stuck it on the burner on my gas stove. When that didn't work and the insert was blazing hot, i cooled it down in...you got it...bleach....and NOTHING. The damn thing didn't even dull. In the end, not wanting to use sandpaper and make it look like it had been run over by a truck, i used a green ScotchGuard pad on it to remove some of the gloss and blackness. Some double sided sticky and the insert was ready to go. One good thing though, the heat from the burner seems to have aged the pearl decently...

The bracelet: It came with a rivet bracelet and I modded (ie dremel) the end links to fit 2mm spring bars ordered from Clarks but they havent gotten to me yet, hence the nato.

 

Some observations of a newbie:

1. I have a healthy respect for those that can rework a case correctly. You have to be part engineer and part artist and unfortunately, I only posses the engineering part. Reworking metal is easily the hardest part.

2. Polishing - This time around, I used the dremel to polish instead of the drill press. It's personal preference but I felt it gave me more control of the surface I was hitting and at higher speeds. I also went for the 3 prong approach to polishing trying to get that mirror finish by using a cutting compound, followed by a general cutting/polishing compound, followed by a true polishing compound. I only got marginal results as opposed to using just the polishing compound.

3. Drilling lug holes - BUY SOME GOOD DAMN BITS!!!! My first build I bought HSS bits off of Amazon and they sucked. It took 15 minutes, 3 bits and a ton of cutting fluid to drill out a single lug hole using a drill press no less. After doing some research, I ordered some new bits from a site called USKnifeMaker.com, 1.3mm cobalt HSS bits. These cut like butter. It took all of one drop of cutting fluid and about 10 seconds on the lug holes.

4. DO NOT try to put your dial back onto the movement while standing up on carpet. One post was a tad tight so I gave the screw a small turn, and what has to be the smallest screw in the history of the world is now lost in the expanse of my carpet forever. :facepalm:

5. Feedback - If you have made it this far, congrats. I welcome feedback, good or bad, too correct the things that are wrong and keep doing the things that are correct. I am learning. Thanks gents.

 

KYcR8.jpg
KyDhK.jpg
KyZ9v.jpg

 

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NCRich

Oh that is a lovely job!  That came out very nice.  That case looks great and the dial is aged just perfect.

Damn nice, especially for an ogre.  Must be tough with those hands.  :lol:

 

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SCShrek
4 minutes ago, NCRich said:

Oh that is a lovely job!  That came out very nice.  That case looks great and the dial is aged just perfect.

Damn nice, especially for an ogre.  Must be tough with those hands.  :lol:

 

Thanks Rich! That's high praise right there ;)

Tweezers and power tools all day long...:rofl:

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CollieWobbles

Looking good, well done :Applause:

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SCShrek
39 minutes ago, CollieWobbles said:

Looking good, well done :Applause:

Thanks mate.

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TheGingerFerret

Excellent stuff! How did you age the dial?

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SCShrek

Thanks GB!

Used the same thing Rich used: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300087127-Ageing-Set-Figurines/dp/B004D37ZVW/ref=sr_1_36?crid=10I4HNI7OP6TT&keywords=weathering+master+set&qid=1573143622&sprefix=weathering+master%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-36

Mixed a little black into the brown and used the brush applicator. That powder goes on really light if you dont wet it so you can keep applying until you get your desired look. The lume dots were too dark at first, so I took some manicurist qtips and wiped off some of the powder. When all was set, I locked it in using matte spray.

Just noticed...that's the right brand but the wrong color pack. The pack I have has white, black and brown. This one: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-USA-TAM87080-Weathering-Paint/dp/B000GKU9N2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=snow+boot+rust+tamiya&qid=1573144110&sr=8-1-fkmr1

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Howitzer

Top work big man! Always impressed by any attempt at self-watch-flagellation, all power to you mate :thumbsup:

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TheGingerFerret

It's really good, but I think you should age the hands too to perfect it.

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SCShrek
11 minutes ago, TheGingerFerret said:

It's really good, but I think you should age the hands too to perfect it.

Your gonna make me pull this back apart arent you??? LOL. I think I will if not but to put the dial spacer back in. I hate when you you get it all together and have parts left over. ;)

18 minutes ago, Howitzer said:

Top work big man! Always impressed by any attempt at self-watch-flagellation, all power to you mate :thumbsup:

Thanks! Nothing better than self flagellation...on watches of course. :giggle:

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Popperini

Great work shrek, this looks lovely (although I’m not sure I could ever come to accept a white dial Sub!).

Can I just check what size cobalt bits you ordered from usaknifemaker.com. Because the only sizes I can find there are imperial. Was it 0.0520?

I’ve been using drill bits from Amazon that work okay, but any recommendations for making the task even easier are always worth looking into!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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SCShrek
3 minutes ago, n0bby said:

Great work shrek, this looks lovely (although I’m not sure I could ever come to accept a white dial Sub!).

Can I just check what size cobalt bits you ordered from usaknifemaker.com. Because the only sizes I can find there are imperial. Was it 0.0520?

I’ve been using drill bits from Amazon that work okay, but any recommendations for making the task even easier are always worth looking into!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, I guess I did some conversion there. Here's what I ordered from them:

.0520 diameter - #55 Drill Bit Cobalt - Screw Machine Length

SKU: DTSB-NDT-Cobalt-#55-SML

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fatarms
1 hour ago, SCShrek said:

One post was a tad tight so I gave the screw a small turn, and what has to be the smallest screw in the history of the world is now lost in the expanse of my carpet forever. 

Use a vacuum hose with a thin cloth or one of the wife's stockings over it.  I've found quite a few small parts this way.

I took a stab at modding this exact same watch once.  I wanted the dial to come out the way yours did.  Needless to say, mine was nowhere close :lol:

Beautiful job on that watch, right down to the pearl.  Looks excellent.

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SCShrek
13 minutes ago, fatarms said:

Use a vacuum hose with a thin cloth or one of the wife's stockings over it.  I've found quite a few small parts this way.

I took a stab at modding this exact same watch once.  I wanted the dial to come out the way yours did.  Needless to say, mine was nowhere close :lol:

Beautiful job on that watch, right down to the pearl.  Looks excellent.

Thanks sir...thats a great idea about the vacuum. No wonder I didnt think of it :lol:

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Theviking

Wonderful job, thank you for sharing! Keep it up!

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Dan71

Nice dial effect ..

The caseback is like the other cartel 5513 right?

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Popperini
Yea, I guess I did some conversion there. Here's what I ordered from them:

.0520 diameter - #55 Drill Bit Cobalt - Screw Machine Length

SKU: DTSB-NDT-Cobalt-#55-SML


Thank you sir! That’s very useful to know. My first lug drilling attempts were a disaster, but since following Rich’s guide to the process far more methodically it’s been a lot easier. Which is good, as I have a whole bunch of vintage reps lined up for lugwork...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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SCShrek
13 minutes ago, n0bby said:


Thank you sir! That’s very useful to know. My first lug drilling attempts were a disaster, but since following Rich’s guide to the process far more methodically it’s been a lot easier. Which is good, as I have a whole bunch of vintage reps lined up for lugwork...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I dont know if its just better quality or the cobalt but these went through like butter...

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SCShrek
35 minutes ago, Dan71 said:

Nice dial effect ..

The caseback is like the other cartel 5513 right?

I dont know how to answer that but maybe the pic will help.

K1fmW.md.jpg

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Intresting

Good work!  The dial is very well done.  I can imagine this is making great strides towards a bigger project !  :)

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SCShrek

@NCRich @Nikosaldente @hanski @repmaster1234 and anyone else who wants to chime in.

Question for the experts from a noob:

I know there are upscale cases, bezels and dials and such from Phong to Ruby to Yuki aming others but on the low end, I hear cartel thrown around a ton with out really knowing what's being talked about. The 2 mods I have done were on BP bases and I know this only from Rich's tutorial but can you ask a TD you want a cartel 1675 and they know what you are talking about? I have seen builds from a DHGate cartel. How would you know by looking? Just a bit confused on the lower end bases which is obviously what I want to practice on. Thanks for the patience and feel free to roll your eyes at the ignorance of this newbie.

My wish would be to get a hierarchy of parts , ie cases: gen, Phong, MQ, Ruby, Yuki, cartel, BP, but that would be subjective and take all the fun out of buggering Rich when I needed to know something. ;)

Anyway, I'll get what knowledge I can get. 

Thanks

@Intresting Thought you may want to see this if you havent already bud!

8 minutes ago, Intresting said:

Good work!  The dial is very well done.  I can imagine this is making great strides towards a bigger project !  :)

1675 PanAm is looming brother...while we wait on parts to come back in stock...

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SCShrek
4 minutes ago, Dan71 said:

Yes similar to the cartel 5513 .
so not like the genuine sub 50s that had this caseback

https://www.iconeek.com/rolexsubmariner6204.html

b7cd97f2db8d132c04ffd52f489ca5ad.jpg

Ah yea, big difference on that. You know, I have the rep rolex case opener set ;) and I used the largest die on this case back. I would have to go looking for bigger dies on the gen spec one assuming the sticky ball didnt work.

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Intresting
12 minutes ago, SCShrek said:

@NCRich @Nikosaldente @hanski @repmaster1234 and anyone else who wants to chime in.

Question for the experts from a noob:

I know there are upscale cases, bezels and dials and such from Phong to Ruby to Yuki aming others but on the low end, I hear cartel thrown around a ton with out really knowing what's being talked about. The 2 mods I have done were on BP bases and I know this only from Rich's tutorial but can you ask a TD you want a cartel 1675 and they know what you are talking about? I have seen builds from a DHGate cartel. How would you know by looking? Just a bit confused on the lower end bases which is obviously what I want to practice on. Thanks for the patience and feel free to roll your eyes at the ignorance of this newbie.

My wish would be to get a hierarchy of parts , ie cases: gen, Phong, MQ, Ruby, Yuki, cartel, BP, but that would be subjective and take all the fun out of buggering Rich when I needed to know something. ;)

Anyway, I'll get what knowledge I can get. 

Thanks

@Intresting Thought you may want to see this if you havent already bud!

1675 PanAm is looming brother...while we wait on parts to come back in stock...

:clap:

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NCRich
12 minutes ago, SCShrek said:

@NCRich @Nikosaldente @hanski @repmaster1234 and anyone else who wants to chime in.

Question for the experts from a noob:

I know there are upscale cases, bezels and dials and such from Phong to Ruby to Yuki aming others but on the low end, I hear cartel thrown around a ton with out really knowing what's being talked about. The 2 mods I have done were on BP bases and I know this only from Rich's tutorial but can you ask a TD you want a cartel 1675 and they know what you are talking about? I have seen builds from a DHGate cartel. How would you know by looking? Just a bit confused on the lower end bases which is obviously what I want to practice on. Thanks for the patience and feel free to roll your eyes at the ignorance of this newbie.

My wish would be to get a hierarchy of parts , ie cases: gen, Phong, MQ, Ruby, Yuki, cartel, BP, but that would be subjective and take all the fun out of buggering Rich when I needed to know something. ;)

Anyway, I'll get what knowledge I can get. 

Thanks

@Intresting Thought you may want to see this if you havent already bud!

1675 PanAm is looming brother...while we wait on parts to come back in stock...

Cartel refers to Josh and Andrew.  At one time they attempted to corner the rep market and had items only they could get.  They made some threats to smaller TDs in terms of pricing.  Hence the term Cartel.  This is why they are not TDs on some boards like RWI.  As for the term, in this case of vintage subs like 1680 and 5512/13 etc it is the JK factory, for the 1675 and 1655 it is the BP factory.

Now the phrase gets tossed around like "noob"

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