Review - Rolex Milgauss Label Noir Tourbillon

[semperfi55 4,707]

Meme guy is not wrong, in my ever-expanding collection, I am sadly lacking in Milgausses. There is no overt disdain for the collection, nor is there any strong feelings for them. It might come down to the fact that its anti-magnetism---the main feature, is not replicated. This makes the reps pretty redundant. Furthermore, the aesthetic of the Milgauss just does nothing for me. Yes, it has a crooked second hand. But that's it.

 

I find myself more interested in the third party modifications of the Milgauss. Many of them involve PVD coating, or blacking out the dial, or both.  A minimalist Milgauss dial, when done right, accentuates the unique lightning second hand.  

Here are some examples of Milgauss Mods:

By MAD PARIS

Another MAD PARIS Edition, called the "Chromatic".

And again from the lunatics of the French capital, the "Pride" with its rainbow colour font.  Hmm, this was a random image I found from their site, I actually kinda like it.

Of course, Bamford will have their usual place in the mod market.

 

But these are all relatively simple alterations, limited to the aesthetic side of things.

Surely someone must be dumb brave enough to fuck tinker with the mechanical aspect of the Milgauss?

 

The Watch

Enter Label Noir.

Label Noir have successfully transplanted a tourbillon into the original Rolex calibre 3131, with no change to the case height.  A flying tourbillon, decorated with the company's initials, is installed on a ball-bearing.  This was accompanied by a change of barrel spring to ensure performance consistency (tourbillons require more energy). Furthermore, the number of vibrations per hour has been reduced from 28,000 to 21,600, or from 4 hertz to 3 hertz.  

In total:

-51 components have been removed

-2 components modified 

-94 components added 

The heavily-modified main plate still bears the Rolex serial number. Not that Rolex would ever accept this under warranty!

The case and bracelet are given the ADLC treatment. Anamorphous diamond-like carbon coating is a subset of PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) coating. ADLC involves the application of carbon, titanium, and nitrogen that enhances the durability of the watch, making it pretty much scratch-resistant. The carbon is blasted onto the surface of watch’s components and then cooled down extremely quickly.

The lume bits in the watch hands are converted to black, along with black lacquered second hand.

The result was polarising on release. The opulence of a tourbillon in a tool watch (originally) was anathema to purists. Others marveled at the technical achievement. Some were fatigued by the industry's latest attempt to shoehorn a tourbillon into a product.  Others enjoyed the novelty of this oddball.

Gen Price Estimate: CHF 125, 000

 

The Rep

I, for one, love the ludicrous concept of shoving a tourbillon (pointless for wristwatches) into a Rolex (a brand with no tourbillons).

It has a PVD coating? Done.

It's rare as fuck? Sold.

I also enjoy the fact that most people looking at it will call it a fake. They wouldn't be wrong. They would be right for the wrong reasons. How many people would know about the time when a random company fitted a tourbillon into a Rolex, and when the Chinese decided to replicate it?

So when @Glaude shared some info about a rep being sold, I kept an eye for reviews of the watch. It was rather disheartening. @rj999 kindly posted his take on the rep, along with some movement sleuthing by @GenTLe:

rj999 found the rep to have poor quality PVD coating and poor performance. Not a good sign for a rep with a hefty price tag. 

 

 

Oh, and did I mention that I only read his comments after paying for the watch? 

Well too late now. All I could do was ask JTime (TD over on RWI) to keep an eye of the tourby performance.

(Apologies for the white specks,  it is exceptionally difficult to keep the PVD surface dust-free.)

 

 

 

 

TD Specifications (Claims)

Size: 40mm x 14mm

Movement: Asian automatic tourbillon movement

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds display

Case: PVD plated stainless steel case

Crystal: Scratch-proof sapphire crystal

Dial: Gray dial

Strap: PVD plated stainless steel bracelet

Clasp: Deployant clasp

Water resistance: >50 Meters

Video of the watch can be found here:

https://puretimewatch.io/milgauss-pvd-label-noir-tourbillon-v9f-best-edition-on-pvd-bracelet.html#

 

Dimensions

Case Diameter: 43.0mm

Case Height: 14.2mm

Lug-to-Lug: 52.6mm

Lug Width: 19.0mm

 

Gen Case Diameter: 40mm

Gen Case Height: 13mm

TD Specs are all lies! The case diameter is much larger, and risks a lopsided appearance as they did not increase the bracelet width to compensate for the bigger case. Collectors with smaller wrists take note.

But the case height is only one millimetre off from the gen. It is not the most egregious attempt among tourbillon reps.

 

Dial

I would say the grey colour is close enough to the gen. The shades of grey varies depending on lighting, time of day and general kinkiness. The grey in photos of the gen varies with lighting too.

The matte black hour indices at 3, 6, and 9 are larger than the others, as per the gen.  There is a coronet at 12 instead of a hour index. Beyond the hour indices are black square plots with minute markers running along the outer edge of the dial.

Although dial font is not my forte, I can still tell that the general style of the "LABEL NOIR" font is respected. However, the "NOIR" font could be bolder. Even in the gen, the "LABEL" and "NOIR" are perilously close to each other, giving further importance to a bolder "NOIR" font to aesthetically separate the words.

Regrettably, my photos do not show a clear view of the rehaut. However, I can reassure you that the rehaut alignment on my watch is spot on. I will leave rehaut font judgements to the more enthusiastic members. 

The flying tourbillon here has reasonably good decoration, with the "L" and "N" at the dial side of the tourbillon. However, the rep tourbillon is missing the gold tourbillon cage seen in the gen. Thankfully, the tourbillon is flush to edges of the dial aperture, avoiding the unsightly gaps seen in other rep tourbillons.

The "SWISS MADE" declarations is squeezed between the aperture edge and the minute markers, as per gen. The final "S" of "SWISS and the "M" of "MADE" are in the correct positions in relation to the minute markers.

The hour and minute hands have matte black paint instead of lume.  The second hand is painted a glossy black. I have no issues with the hands.

 

 

 

Movement:

In this section, I will admit I have been pretty lazy. I have copied over some photos by jr999 of the movement used. @GenTLe also had a look at the movement. The consensus seems to be this is a custom movement with a combination ofETA clone elements and features of Chinese movements. Bottom line: Once it breaks, I'm fucked

Dial side of the movement. Photo credit to @rj999

 

Rear side of the movement, with winding bridge removed. Photo credit to @rj999

 

Case

The entire case is PVD coated, giving a matte black colour. Don't mind the plastic wrapping trapped in the lower left lug. 

Some sexy lug action from a more presentable angle...

 

The smooth bezel in this particular 43mm case really makes the watch look like a huge pie pan.

The rep has a screw-down crown. Bracelet links can be removed with a screwdriver.

The curvature of the watch helps with slightly reducing the profile of the watch. Only slightly.

The caseback is your standard Rolex rep fare, but with PVD coating.

 

 

Bracelet & Clasp

PVD Oyster bracelet. As mentioned above, the normal sized bracelet width is dwarfed by the 43mm case. It can look unbalanced!

Ignore the stickers on the side of the clasp.

And more stickers on the inner sides of the clasp. GIven the reputation of poor PVD coating, I decided to leave the stickers in areas likely to experience the most metal-on-metal contact. Yes, I do feel like a Rolexforum twat, thanks for asking.

 

 

Functions

I am fortunate to have received a watch with pretty good QC. The power reserve on this watch is at least 48 hours. And relatively rare for a tourbillon, this watch movement is automatic as well. I have not conducted any formal tests on accuracy but it does not seem to lose more than a minute after 2 days in the box. On the wrist, there is no perceptible deviation.

 

Nonetheless, your mileage may vary and it is important to emphasise to your TD to QC its performance.

 

Onto the PVD coating. Again, I am no expert. My personal opinion is that the PVD coating could be improved. On brighter light exposure, you cans see how grainy the coating looks. 

Here I have included my AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar rep. It is an Aliexpress cheapie. The AP has a glossier, smoother coating and has withstood some  wear and tear. I have worn it regularly for almost 6 months and no scratches or chips. 

A few more comparison pics, from different lighting angles.

To be fair to the Milgauss, I did accidentally run the sharp end of my stainless steel tweezers across the bracelet (long story ). No damage yet. 

 

Conclusion

Well heck. This is an oversized, unbalanced Milgauss with a hitherto unseen tourbillon movement and questionable PVD coating. And all that for a replica of a watch that many in the watch world will not have heard of. If you are after a sporty tourbillon watch, I recommend the Royal Oaks and the Hublots. If you are after the one tourbillon to tick the box within your collection, look elsewhere.

 

For me, I enjoy the novelty of this oddball. It is a replica of the only Rolex tourbillon watch out there. A great conversation piece and a welcome addition to my tourbillon collection.

 

 

@McGilli @Luxuracer  @TheGingerFerret @NCRich @Logixa @Theviking@Thommo82 @paccbet @Drfunsocks@bdnica@RussP @Chixisigma @Hyjynx@repmaster1234  @GenTLe @yllekp

[NCRich 13,792]

Well, that is one that you won't see a duplicate of on your flight.  That's really unusual and something that not everyone is going to like.  I think its kinda cool though!  Very interesting.

[fatarms 7,780]

When I read the title, I thought I was going to be laughing.  A tourby in a Rolex?  By the end of the post, I actually want one but not at that price tag. Ohhhh well. 

 

Great write up and pics! 

[Glaude 1,615]

Very nice review, been a long time since you posted one, lazy twat  

Loved the attention to detail of the dial markings and positioning of the text.

- You left some plastic on the clasp
- Do you feel like a rolexforum twat ?
- I don't think your AP from Aliexpress is PVD but rather Anodized 
- The tourbillon construction seems pretty accessible, I guess a talented watchmaker could work out a repair if it breaks (but don't know if it would be cost effective given that if the PVD is all fucked up, not worth fixing it unless you completely strip off the pvd coating)

I'm not thrown off by the wider case and smaller bracelet, but what could make it look very nice would be a nice 2xAR coating ! 

[GingerApple 7,304]

50 minutes ago, semperfi55 said:

Yes, I do feel like a Rolexforum twat, thanks for asking.

Best part of this review, and indeed any review, on any forum, ever.

Fact.

[RussP 22,540]

Thanks for the post.

Unfortunately, not my cuppa either.

Having said that, the MAD Chromatic is an interesting take on the Milgauss.

[Thommo82 1,397]

The more I get into watches the less Rolex appeal to me. 
This is cool though 

Amazing review as per usual

Bravo 

[V101 25]

Great review.

Not a huge fan of aftermarket customization in general but an interesting read nonetheless.  I do think if the French rainbow version came with all white sticks (and a more manly name) I would be more interested.

Thanks for putting in the time and effort!

[Popperini 17,996]

Great review with some nice big LOL moments. Thanks for taking the time to put all this genuinely useful info together in such an entertaining way.


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[Sembal 0]

Great review! I think it looks very nice Curious about the durability of PVD coating. 

[yllekp 1,684]

A tourby Rolex, what will they think of next? It is just reminding me I am all out of tourbys. Excellent review  @semperfi55

The Milgauss does not really do anything for me and I never had one, I have seen plenty of them in ADs and well they are just shiny watches but nothing stands out. I do not know if a tourby suits a Milgauss but it certainly makes them more interesting. 

[Dr Fun Socks 76]

Hey man great write up! Got to agree with the others, i enjoy reading them and you need to do more... ill send you some of my watches to rip the shit out of if your all out haha! I remember when this came out, its intriguing but pvd is a big worry. Ive got a dlc coated ap las vegas, looks like if it fell out of my car window on the m25 it would escape unscathed. I do like the idea of an automatic tourbillon though. Got to be one of, if not the first auto tourby? I got a few new ones myself recently, vc malte tourby and an ap royal oak tourby. Theyre just bloody addictive! Did @rj999 ever fix his one? I remember the thread where it fucked up after not very long. Seems most eta based movements the chinese decide to add something to *ahem CHS ahem* fuck up pretty quickly. Good luck in the long term!

[deju 1,889]

Great review! I actually really like this watch and follow labelNoir with great enthusiasm.

some times it’s nice to think can we do something rather than should we!!

they also have a tourbillion  Daytona now too. 

brilliant that the Rep factories made the watch 

[ssouthall6 4]

Nice review. Saved me $750


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[yllekp 1,684]

14 hours ago, Drfunsocks said:

if not the first auto tourby?

IWC has autus, but the ones with autos seem to be the ones that cause the most problems. 

[Theviking 197]

I think it's a beaut @semperfi55 . The clean design of the milglauss makes it the best Rolex candidate for modding. The grey black combination is delightful and the tourb is a sweet middle finger to convention. Nice write up, many thanks x

[Dr Fun Socks 76]

14 minutes ago, yllekp said:

IWC has autus, but the ones with autos seem to be the ones that cause the most problems. 

Is that the zf one with the tourby at 12 and a working pr? Its a nice looking watch, shame it has issues. Which tourbillon are you looking to get next then? Take the leap of faith it appears not a single other person has yet and test pilot the roger dubuis double tourbillon....

[ssouthall6 4]

It's beautiful and I thought about getting it but 43mm is going to wear like a dssd. Not for me. Shame as it looks great


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[yllekp 1,684]

5 hours ago, Drfunsocks said:

Is that the zf one with the tourby at 12 and a working pr? Its a nice looking watch, shame it has issues. Which tourbillon are you looking to get next then?

Not sure which one but I know @Hyjynx was talking about the iWC and problems. 

I am all out of tourbys. I think I want my RG A. Lange &Sohne back

[GenTLe 1,510]

Nice review semperfi! Not exactly my style but I hope you'll be able to enjoy it for good time

[semperfi55 4,707]

On 15/11/2019 at 23:07, NCRich said:

Well, that is one that you won't see a duplicate of on your flight. 

Is this even an expression? If it is, I would have bought the watch purely for that

On 15/11/2019 at 23:47, fatarms said:

When I read the title, I thought I was going to be laughing.  A tourby in a Rolex?  By the end of the post, I actually want one but not at that price tag. Ohhhh well. 

Probably the first time someone bought a rep so ridiculous that no way there is a gen  Glad you liked it in the end!

On 15/11/2019 at 23:48, Glaude said:

- Do you feel like a rolexforum twat ?
- I don't think your AP from Aliexpress is PVD but rather Anodized 

Yes, everyday I sacrifice two Seikos on the Watch Gods Altar, praying for a recession so I can buy my Rolex at MSRP.

Oops, you are more knowledgeable in the materials/construction side of things, so I'm gonna revise that and have a read on anodised. Thanks!

On 15/11/2019 at 23:50, TheGingerFerret said:

Best part of this review, and indeed any review, on any forum, ever.

Fact.

 

On 16/11/2019 at 00:02, RussP said:

Thanks for the post.

Unfortunately, not my cuppa either.

Having said that, the MAD Chromatic is an interesting take on the Milgauss.

'Tis a polarising one. Indeed I am tempted to modify a cheap gate Milgauss into the Chromatic!

 

On 16/11/2019 at 01:24, Thommo82 said:

The more I get into watches the less Rolex appeal to me. 
This is cool though 

Strangely it's the other way round for me. My rolex: other brand rep ratios has flipped dramatically in the last 6 months. Last year I did not care much for the brand but now.... yeesh.

 

On 16/11/2019 at 02:01, V101 said:

Not a huge fan of aftermarket customization in general but an interesting read nonetheless.  I do think if the French rainbow version came with all white sticks (and a more manly name) I would be more interested.

Aftermarket customisation. That was the term I was looking for but just cannot recall

It's a rainbow customisation, I don't know how they would be able to make it sound manlier? The Chromantic?

Speaking of Rainbow Rolexes, I have another review coming up  

 

On 16/11/2019 at 08:00, n0bby said:

Great review with some nice big LOL moments. Thanks for taking the time to put all this genuinely useful info together in such an entertaining way.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it

On 16/11/2019 at 08:09, Sembal said:

Curious about the durability of PVD coating. 

You're not alone there. When this watch is in the box, it's wrapped up in bubble wrap. Most unsightly.

On 16/11/2019 at 16:55, yllekp said:

A tourby Rolex, what will they think of next? It is just reminding me I am all out of tourbys. Excellent review  @semperfi55

.......I do not know if a tourby suits a Milgauss but it certainly makes them more interesting. 

 How are you out of tourbys mate! You need to correct that deficiency...

Errrrr not when the main thing going for the Milgauss is its anti-magnetism. Funny the articles and puff pieces do not mention if the anti-magnetism feature is still intact.

On 16/11/2019 at 17:40, Drfunsocks said:

Ive got a dlc coated ap las vegas, looks like if it fell out of my car window on the m25 it would escape unscathed.

The only scientific way to test  PVD durabilitiy

On 16/11/2019 at 17:40, Drfunsocks said:

I got a few new ones myself recently, vc malte tourby and an ap royal oak tourby. Theyre just bloody addictive! Did @rj999 ever fix his one? I remember the thread where it fucked up after not very long. Seems most eta based movements the chinese decide to add something to *ahem CHS ahem* fuck up pretty quickly. Good luck in the long term!

Nice! Any pics of your new tourbys? Would love a Malte tourbillon but they always seem too long for my wrist. IWC have autos (nvm yllekp has answered).

I have no idea, I have not heard from him since. If only saw his posts before buying!  Not that it would have changed my watch-addled mind.

On 16/11/2019 at 20:28, deju said:

Great review! I actually really like this watch and follow labelNoir with great enthusiasm.

some times it’s nice to think can we do something rather than should we!!

they also have a tourbillion  Daytona now too. 

brilliant that the Rep factories made the watch 

Thanks! Ok that is impressive, not sure I like the PN dial customisation. You've changed one major thing, leave the others be.

On 17/11/2019 at 01:55, ssouthall6 said:

Nice review. Saved me $750

Glad to be of service

On 17/11/2019 at 08:46, Theviking said:

The grey black combination is delightful and the tourb is a sweet middle finger to convention.

Cheers mate! Gotta love that middlefinger to convention  

On 17/11/2019 at 08:51, Drfunsocks said:

Is that the zf one with the tourby at 12 and a working pr? ...........................................................................test pilot the roger dubuis double tourbillon....

Can't remember which, but I remember seeing those IWC auto tourbys in the RWI tourbillon thread( yes I read all 150+ pages like a moron).

Mate the price on that double tourby, even I'm not that crazy and that's saying something. Get @Hyjynx to review it!!

On 17/11/2019 at 14:03, yllekp said:

RG A. Lange &Sohne back

Yes you should.

[Dr Fun Socks 76]

Yeah man heres a few pics. Its really not that big of a watch but my god is it classy! I mean i feel like an idiot wearing it without a suit... since ive ordered almost every catalogue available (they’re free, why the hell not!) here a pic next to a gen

[semperfi55 4,707]

16 hours ago, Drfunsocks said:

Yeah man heres a few pics. Its really not that big of a watch but my god is it classy! I mean i feel like an idiot wearing it without a suit... since ive ordered almost every catalogue available (they’re free, why the hell not!) here a pic next to a gen



That's actually a wearable size! What's the lug to lug measurement and case width (at level of crown)?

Hah I'm still down on a Rolex or Patek catalogue, otherwise I probably have all the mainstream Swiss and German brands.

[Dr Fun Socks 76]

Lug to lug is 42mm, width is 38mm without the crown or 41 with it. Its a very wearable size!

[JSebwc 88]

I am usually not one for custom modded watches but I like it.


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