deju 1,858 Posted November 27, 2019 « 1601 Datejust Franken » About the watch : The So unless you live under a rock, we are all aware of the Datejust model The Datejust has been Rolex’s signature dress watch since its inception in 1945. This watch has seen many many revisions over the years. The focus of this Topic and my ridiculous fascination with Vintage Rolex centres around the 1601 model which was was in Production from the late 1950's until the 1970's . Since there are several different metal configurations of the ref. 1601. For me the biggest attraction with this model is the acrylic domed crystal and the wonderful Panpie dial. The configuration I decided to go for included a Engine turned Bezel. The Gen : Gen Technical data : Factory | Rolex CASE | Stainless Steel Case, (316L) MOVEMENT | Rolex Caliber 1570/5 DIMENSIONS | 39mm x 13mm CRYSTAL | Acrylic domed BRACELET | Jubilee Bracelet (316L) Notes of interest: Rolex Only started using 904L steel in 1985. Franken Project Beginnings : As We know this place is a Forum of horological addicts, constantly chasing their next hit. So it may come as no surprise that I have to mention @BabaNJ at this point. He surpassed being a Muse and can only be classed as a co-conspirator and enabler. Without his help and Guidance I would never have got a start on this project at all. One thing I learned with this journey is that you need extreme patience. You'll be chasing a lot of parts and going all over the world. The parts have been sourced from Brazil, Canada, China, Germany and the UK. I think the idea of bringing parts of watches that have long been forgotten back to life really fun. Franken Technical data : Factory | Rolie made (better than swiss made.) CASESET | Geniune (Case/Caseback/Crystal/Bezel/Crown)MOVEMENT | Swiss ETA 2836 BRACELET | Genuine Jubilee Bracelet (316L) Dial | Genuine Panpie dial DateWheel | Raffles Flat 3, open 6&9 Hands | Raffles The Movement : I did a lot of research and annoyed a lot of forum members while starting this project as it became very apparent you need to be extremely careful when working with Panpie dials as the are raised unlike standard dials. So if it wasn't hard enough to merge Rolex and ETA I had to account this into the mix too. I opted to play it safe I went with long post hands and also a ETA 2836 rather than 2824. The 2838 usually has month and date wheel but we can remove the month wheel and enjoy a little more clearance for the dial hands and Date wheel overlay. The case : So one of the main reason to go for a franken vintage Datejust is the fact that you can't get a replica with the correct shape case. You could try to reshape but the results are not always that great in comparison to the time you'll spend on it. I've done no polishing of the watch at all as I wanted to show it in as original as possible. I've become partial to a bit patina. So versus the replica case it is a lot more rounded, slimmer and the lugs go to a nice point and of course the lugs are drilled. The Bezel, Dial & Crystal : One thing with this build, was to keep it with a nice patina, so while I know I can get a NOS Crystal I asked Rolie that if this one was good just to use it. I feel the slight scrapes add a nice warmth to the piece. The dial is by no means NOS and has lost it's lume dots but for the year of watch I don't think it's a deal breaker. Now I Know Typically the 1601 reference came with only open 6 & 9. But while researching the model I found a few with flat 3's. I liked the look. I don't know what the stories are with those gens and if it was done in the factory or an after service thing but I liked the style so thats what I went with. Although the font is slightly thinner as I could only buy a Sub DWO. In terms of alignment it's very good, I've noticed even on the gen's the 1X dates seem slightly to the left, which can annoy my OCD but if it's on the Gen I can't moan!. I'm no photographer So I struggled to catch the beauty of the Engine turned bezel. If you look closely, unlike the standard pyramid fluted bezel this bezel has been etched every other "flute". Rather than a pyramid the non etch part is flat. The bracelet & clasp : Now I could have saved a wedge on this build if I went with a leather strap. The raffles vintage bracelets are a bit light and too sharp. I was luckily enough to spot a period correct rolled links jubilee bracelet. It does have some stretch which would be expected of a nearly 60 year old watch, So I'm in two minds of if I should have it refurbished. It's wonderfully smooth and comfortable on the wrist. Side note, Rolled Links are an utter bastard to work with, come back omega seamaster pins all is forgiven My overall impression & Some beauty shots : Franken Projects are not for the faint hearted. It takes a lot of patience to wait out getting the right parts, even then they won't be on your doorstep so you must go far and wide. Know your limitations, I had started with the intentions of building this myself until I saw the datewheel overlay. I wasn't willing to risk my first attempt on parts that had taken me so long to find So knew to seek professional help. I love the watch I really do but I have to admit that the real passion and enjoyment with this project hasn't been the final watch. The real enjoyment has been the research and chasing of parts (missing out on them many times over) and the forum members who have helped me so much with it when I'm such a noob. @Rolie & @babaNJ 's patience with me has been unreal and of course the many others who's had to listen to me drone on about my 1601 project haha. I'll Try to clean up this post (spell check etc) and get some decent pictures in the next few days! The thanks : @BabaNJ @ROLIE Template By @Glaude Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stuvetjee 17 Posted November 27, 2019 Looks great mate! What a journey that was wear it in good health! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chiquita Fanjita 1,776 Posted November 27, 2019 Having done a few Franken projects myself and with another in the pipeline, I know how much of a pain on the arse they can be, but as you say when you get the finished article it is worth all the hassle and time sourcing everything. Enjoy it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moondustesp 134 Posted November 27, 2019 Looks great. I love a franken build. Nice work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theviking 197 Posted November 27, 2019 Beautiful build, well done deju, very jealous, a build like this is rising on my to do list. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
semperfi55 4,707 Posted November 27, 2019 43 minutes ago, deju said: beauty of the Engine turned bezel. If you look closely, unlike the standard pyramid fluted bezel this bezel has been etched every other "flute". Rather than a pyramid the non etch part is flat. Glad to see another fan of the engine turned bezel If only this bezel option is still around. 44 minutes ago, deju said: who's had to listen to me drone on about my 1601 project haha. Guilty of the same thing as well Great job working with the pie pan dial! Also this is probably the only 1601 with quickset date Winner all round. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deju 1,858 Posted November 27, 2019 41 minutes ago, semperfi55 said: Glad to see another fan of the engine turned bezel If only this bezel option is still around. Guilty of the same thing as well Great job working with the pie pan dial! Also this is probably the only 1601 with quickset date Winner all round. Beautiful bezels, I also like the Turn-o-graph bezel. V2 1601 now with quick set haha 1 hour ago, Stuvetjee said: Looks great mate! What a journey that was wear it in good health! You had to hear about it every step of the ways 1 hour ago, Chiquita Fanjita said: Having done a few Franken projects myself and with another in the pipeline, I know how much of a pain on the arse they can be, but as you say when you get the finished article it is worth all the hassle and time sourcing everything. Enjoy it Cheers man, I agree it takes dedication. You end up on ebay looking at Gen dials imagining all the builds you can make before you've even started the first one !!! 1 hour ago, Moondustesp said: Looks great. I love a franken build. Nice work works all Thanks to @Rolie I'm merely a scavenger 49 minutes ago, Theviking said: Beautiful build, well done deju, very jealous, a build like this is rising on my to do list. Now is the time to jump in, because it takes months of searching for parts overall it's cheaper because you might only buy 1 part a month! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howitzer 1,974 Posted November 27, 2019 Beautiful build mate, that's pretty much the spec I'd have if I was to ever have a vintage DJ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hanski 40 Posted November 27, 2019 Great build and thanks for telling the story of it. Wear it well! I find builds like this wear just a little better than stock pieces if for nothing else than all the sweat and tears that went into them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GingerApple 7,271 Posted November 27, 2019 Awesome dude, it looks very Gen like! Which it virtually is I guess. Although, given what it cost you, you could have gone Gen for maybe £1k more (or even less)? Did you consider that, or it was more about the chase/build? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BabaNJ 38 Posted November 27, 2019 Looks good @deju Nothing beats the feeling when someone asks you"where you got the watch? " and you reply" I built it. " Enjoy it mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deju 1,858 Posted November 27, 2019 2 hours ago, Howitzer said: Beautiful build mate, that's pretty much the spec I'd have if I was to ever have a vintage DJ Cheers man. So many small variations, great fun! 1 hour ago, hanski said: Great build and thanks for telling the story of it. Wear it well! I find builds like this wear just a little better than stock pieces if for nothing else than all the sweat and tears that went into them. It’s the idea of bringing them back to life I find great! 38 minutes ago, BabaNJ said: Looks good @deju Nothing beats the feeling when someone asks you"where you got the watch? " and you reply" I built it. " Enjoy it mate. Thanks mate! I have that 16030 florentine dial, maybe I’ll have to start again 1 hour ago, TheGingerFerret said: Awesome dude, it looks very Gen like! Which it virtually is I guess. Although, given what it cost you, you could have gone Gen for maybe £1k more (or even less)? Did you consider that, or it was more about the chase/build? I’ve seen a few at £2500 which is a lot of gen watch for the money for sure. With gen movements popping up at £1000-1500, there would be scope to just make it full gen I guess but I doubt I’d enjoy the watch more than I do already. Ultimately you’re right, it was totally about the chase and interacting with people on the boards that was the key enjoyment for me. I’ve not bought a replica for a while and really my interest has been dipping (there have been a few I’ve let slip by this month though grr). When you take what we spend monthly on watches and with the parts chases taking months the amount breaks down easy and the enjoyment from the chase makes it worth the outgoing. It’s like a buzz of excitement with every part! I think the first part was bought on the first of May. it’s like those subscription magazines to build a DB5 or spitfire for £9.99 a month If I didn’t go for the gen bracelet I’d have saved about £400.00 but the deal was right time right place so couldn’t help it. When you’re on the hunt for a specific build you can’t help it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAJ75 921 Posted November 27, 2019 What a cracking project @deju props for the perserverence in collecting the parts & the commitment to see this come to fruition...... To all intents & purposes its as good as a gen, no one can see the heart that beats within it..... Enjoy it mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deju 1,858 Posted November 28, 2019 16 hours ago, MAJ75 said: What a cracking project @deju props for the perserverence in collecting the parts & the commitment to see this come to fruition...... To all intents & purposes its as good as a gen, no one can see the heart that beats within it..... Enjoy it mate. Cheers man! I'd never have patience as one of my virtues normally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
