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The DC Collection (a going gen story)

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_DC_

E04-FB5-EC-1797-4153-B846-E25-F76-CD5924(photo credit Phillips)

I’ve been absent from the forum (save a few posts here and there) for just over a year now. It’s no coincidence that it’s also just over a year since COVID-19 hit and I had nothing but spare time on my hands to spend with my family, and with my watches...

... and what I discovered was that I actually didn’t like most of them (my watches that is, I love my family dearly). For a nailed on watch lover this was most disconcerting, and I had way too much time to think about it. I threw myself into articles about my most beloved brand, Patek Philippe, and this only convinced me more that my reps were not scratching the itch anymore.

0-F9-A339-B-FFAA-4-F0-D-9-BFD-4-F49214-C(photo credit Hodinkee)

The more I saw pictures of vintage Pateks the more I realised that’s what I wanted, that’s what I longed for, that vintage look, and feel, AND SIZE!!

2-CFD6763-644-B-4348-A2-A4-BF2-B2-D12861(photo credit Revolution)

F988-C563-47-DA-4305-9520-372-E9789554-C(photo credit Hodinkee)

Now, I do ok financially, but vintage Patek is a little out of my reach. I sold a few reps to get my gen journey started but still, a few reps does not a 2499 make!! Thankfully, however,  there are hundreds of affordable vintage gens out there... most of which are in poor condition or just downright ugly... but I had nothing else to do but trawl eBay and Chrono24 all day, and eventually I struck gold, literally!

316-BC5-DE-3-DF0-42-D9-B7-E5-7-D4-C5065-

I started small, both in monetary and size terms, with this 33mm solid rose gold chronograph which I spotted on eBay and managed to acquire for a mere £600! The condition is superb, in no way would you think this watch was over 75 years old, and while there are plenty of refinished dials out there the case and movement are equally spotless which suggests it’s all original and just very well looked after. I still can’t believe this watch only cost me £600.

0017-A111-4319-43-C7-86-C6-D1-AD78674-BA

What a way to start, and from then on there was no going back. All but a few of my reps have been sold (including ones I never thought I’d sell... and haven’t missed them at all) and I’ve slowly but surely built a small collection of vintage watches... and I am absolutely loving them! So, in order of appearance, here they are...

Agari (by Chronograph Suisse) Chronograph

0-AB4009-B-E5-E5-428-D-B814-5-A8-B8-CFB7

A 33mm manual wind chronograph in a solid rose gold case with rose gold dial from the mid 1940s. The movement is a Venus 188.

Things I love about this watch: 

  1. The rose gold is a beautiful colour. It’s not that washed out pink colour of plated rose gold, it’s a rich warm yellowish pink.
  2. The dial. As well as being in phenomenal condition, is wonderfully dynamic. The rose gold colour changes so much in the light, as do the foiled Arabic numerals.
  3. The size. 33mm is small, and it’s not an every day watch size (though this does wear nicely with shorts and t-shirt believe it or not) but now I’ve gotten used to smaller size watches I truly believe it’s the way to go. I’ve learned that lug width plays a big part in the wrist presence of a watch, and a small case with wide lugs can wear as large as a bigger case with narrower lugs. The lugs on this are 17mm, I’d prefer something closer to 20mm but it still has more presence than you’d imagine. Plus I always felt the typical 40mm rep watches were too large on me anyway, so this size suits me really well!

Rodana 4477 Triple Calendar Chronograph

0-A49247-D-3-FC6-44-B6-8-A98-2798716-C44

A 38mm triple calendar with moonphase and chronograph in a yellow gold plated steel case with silver lacquered dial, circa 1951. The movement is a Landeron 186.

Things I love about this watch:

  1. After years of rep ownership, the sheer joy of owning a complicated watch where all the functions work properly cannot be overstated. Having a triple calendar watch is pretty exciting on its own, then add a moonphase which is a novel and fun complication, but throw in a chronograph on top of all that... it’s just the business!!
  2. It looks a bit like a 1st series Patek 2499... need I say more?

Rima Chronograph

BF8-CE884-B5-EF-4-AA6-ACA7-743-D9822399-

A 32mm steel chronograph with green/gold/brown dial and spider lugs from the 1940s. The movement is a Lemania CH27.

Things I love about this watch:

  1. The dial colour. I’ve no idea if it was this colour from new or if it’s aged this way, but it’s so unique. It’s deep olive green in low light, and rich shimmering gold in direct light, with hints of brown around some of the tachymeter. And with luminous Arabic numerals no less, it’s really something special.
  2. The amazing pusher feel. Unlike the previous two watches which are cam actuated chronographs, this is a proper column wheel unit. It’s the same base movement that you would find in a Patek 5070 or 5970... and you can really feel the quality. A lovely resistance followed by a snickety click when it engages, it’s sublime!

Longines Calatrava

78-C58035-AC29-4-D4-B-91-A5-A05-F01-C782

A 31mm steel three hander with Bauhaus influenced design, delivered on a Gay Fréres bracelet (which I didn’t like so took it off but still have it). Circa 1935. The movement is a manual wind Longines caliber 12.68Z.

Things I love about this watch:

  1. The simple clean design. Despite being small it’s angular coin case is quite masculine, and it very much reminds me of the Patek ref 96. 
  2. The brand. This has been my first gen with a well known top tier name on the dial, and Longines are an extremely collectible brand with a rich history.

Movado 14936 Astrograph Jumbo Triple Calendar

C87-C030-A-328-F-4-E02-8773-ECC945-EF581

A rare oversized 36mm variant of the Astrograph (usually 34mm) from the 1950s. The movement is a Movado Caliber 473.

Things I love about this watch:

  1. The lugs!! Just look at them, all pointy and angular. The standard Astrograph has quite flamboyant leaf-like lugs, which with its smaller size makes if quite feminine, but this jumbo variant is all edges and angles and I love it!
  2. Its a mix of a Patek 3448 and a Rolex 8171. Take a look at those two watches and you’ll see what I mean. They are two of my favourite all time watches (especially the Patek) and both command prices in the hundreds of thousands, so I’m getting some of the kicks for a fraction of the price (though this is still one of the more expensive gens I’ve bought).
  3. The modern size. Ok so it’s not truly modern at 36mm, but it’s more modern than a 31mm Longines. I’ve become quite used to smaller sizes now as I said before,  and I actually really like how they wear, the 38mm Rodana is perhaps a little big and the Longines is perhaps a little small, so this is possibly the perfect size (although I’m yet to try a 34/35mm watch and I suspect that could be the real Goldilocks size).

So there you have it, the current state of the DC collection, and I honestly can’t see myself buying any more reps, but never say never!

As you might be able to tell I’ve also developed a taste for Jean Paul Menicucci watch straps, which are just perfect for vintage watches. But these vintage pieces are super versatile just by changing up the straps, and going from a cream peccary to a glossy alligator, can completely change the look from vintage casual to classy formal... so my strap collection has gotten pretty out of hand!!

Hope you all enjoyed the pictures if not the story :)

DC

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Moondustesp

Great watches! I especially like the Agari. Great thread :Applause:

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fatarms

Welcome back bud!  Great story and I agree with @Moondustesp, that Agari is beautiful. 

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BravoDelta

Very nice little (:giggle:) gen collection! 

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movintage

Thumbs up to you on going gen and  starting with a few very nice vintage watches.

Seriously though, if you love Patek, instead of continuing to purchase nice inexpensive gens, a beautiful Patek 5034 Tlme Traveler in 18k rose or yellow can be had for under $14k.

If interested PM and I’ll give you details. No, I’m not selling anything but know a very reputable dealer with solid rep on many gen forums who has one in rose.

Either way, CONGRATS on going gen.
 


 

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deju

This is a sad day.... the one wrist that pulls off a Millie. 

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_DC_
1 hour ago, movintage said:

Thumbs up to you on going gen and  starting with a few very nice vintage watches.

Seriously though, if you love Patek, instead of continuing to purchase nice inexpensive gens, a beautiful Patek 5034 Tlme Traveler in 18k rose or yellow can be had for under $14k.

If interested PM and I’ll give you details. No, I’m not selling anything but know a very reputable dealer with solid rep on many gen forums who has one in rose.

Either way, CONGRATS on going gen.
 


 

Thanks for the tip but I’m just not a one watch man,  I enjoy variety way too much, so for now I’m happy with a collection of lower value pieces. I will own a Patek one day, but there’s no rush!

DC 

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_DC_
2 hours ago, deju said:

This is a sad day.... the one wrist that pulls off a Millie. 

Lol, sorry to disappoint buddy... but come on you gotta admit this suits my wrist so much better...

8-AE0-B4-DB-0-C65-483-D-A3-CD-688-EB114-

DC

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deju
5 minutes ago, _DC_ said:

Lol, sorry to disappoint buddy... but come on you gotta admit this suits my wrist so much better...

8-AE0-B4-DB-0-C65-483-D-A3-CD-688-EB114-

DC

They are indeed beautiful mate, also those new Breitling’s might be up your street. 

 

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_DC_
2 minutes ago, deju said:

They are indeed beautiful mate, also those new Breitling’s might be up your street. 

 

They would be if they weren’t 42mm :dry:

DC

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Piccolo

Good to see you back @_DC_ ! Great collection... :D 

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Glaude

Glad to see you back @_DC_ I hope, even in gen form, you'll stay with us and keep on sharing those very nice pics or very nice watches ! 

I can clearly see a trend in the style of gen you picked here, nothing to gain appart from the pride of owning their version with the Patek branding on it !

I'm pretty sure I know which rep you haven't sold though.

That Agari is a killer ! 

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CurioLeo
3 hours ago, _DC_ said:

Lol, sorry to disappoint buddy... but come on you gotta admit this suits my wrist so much better...

8-AE0-B4-DB-0-C65-483-D-A3-CD-688-EB114-

DC

Waaay too small

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_DC_
9 hours ago, Glaude said:

I'm pretty sure I know which rep you haven't sold though.

There are 6 reps left in my collection... I’ll be very impressed if you can name 3 of them :p.

DC

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Waspy

This is a great post. I love these vintage Swiss chronographs. I have a Poljot 3133 mechanical chronograph which is 38mm and works great and I love it but I am very wary of mechanical chronographs. I used to have some vintage Seiko chronographs that were money pits (apart from the jumbo, which I regret selling) so I tend to stick with quartz chronographs these days.  But I really get where you're coming from. If I ever buy another mechanical I think it will be a Strela.

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RussP

Aha.............so that's what you've been upto, Dave !!!!

Nice post, especially those triple calendar watches.

I've recently realised that I don't have one in my rapidly expanding (gen) collection.

Like you, I haven't bought a rep in a very long time, but can't bear to part with any either :facepalm:

Great to hear from you after all this time.

Welcome back !

Russ.

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Glaude
6 hours ago, _DC_ said:

There are 6 reps left in my collection... I’ll be very impressed if you can name 3 of them :p.

DC

I'd say : Rainbow Daytona and The Sultan Daytona you custom made, but I couldn't tell for the others :lol: 

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australis

Some retro P.O.S ...  does that count! (as a valid contribution to the vote!?)  :dance:

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_DC_
1 hour ago, Glaude said:

I'd say : Rainbow Daytona and The Sultan Daytona you custom made, but I couldn't tell for the others :lol: 

Yep you guessed correct. Basically all my sentimental pieces are the ones left!! I also still have my Patek 5227 and a Rolex DateJust both of which my wife bought me, a Patek 5980 which got badly scratched while on my stag night (so can’t sell it and it reminds me of a good night out), and finally a Rolex 5514 gifted to me by @Pseudonym with a varied history of ownership on the forum (for those who remember StormyNight).

DC

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Glaude

So are you heading towards a vintage Patek or did you scratched that itch with those vintage above ?

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_DC_
2 hours ago, Glaude said:

So are you heading towards a vintage Patek or did you scratched that itch with those vintage above ?

I will own a Patek one day for sure, but at my current time of life I can neither afford nor justify the price for one (at least not the ones I want) but in later life when the mortgage is paid off perhaps. In the meantime the pleasure I get from these pieces certainly scratches the itch. But I plan to continue collecting gens and who knows where that journey will take me!

DC

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_DC_
19 hours ago, CurioLeo said:

Waaay too small

Is this one any better?!

08917-F86-658-E-4-B89-B3-A8-294-E96-D28-

DC

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Moondustesp
1 minute ago, _DC_ said:

Is this one any better?!

08917-F86-658-E-4-B89-B3-A8-294-E96-D28-

DC

Wristy of the Agari needed! 

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FunnyStarSystem

Classy new act, just like yourself DC - happy to see you back and invigorated in a new direction. I was just having this discussion with another member recently how eventually many of us want something of more substance and strike out on a course of gens. Lovely straps too!

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CurioLeo
47 minutes ago, _DC_ said:

Is this one any better?!

08917-F86-658-E-4-B89-B3-A8-294-E96-D28-

DC

Absolutely, the stronger and longer lugs and the slightly bigger diameter looks like a conscious decision to wear a specidic but smaller vintage watch rather than any old vintage watch,  if that makes sense. The Movado would have been my pick btw.  Try a Seiko 7016-5020 with a dual hand single register chrono in a case similar to PP and functionality that has only been repeated by Omega and PP since - albeit PP came 30 years later. I will post photos of mine later, as well as the 7018. I am also building a 7016-5000 Monaco. 

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