2824/36 Keyless Reset Tutorial

[NCRich 13,746]

I'd been meaning to do this for I guess years now but recent posts got me motivated to do it.  The 2824 and 36 share the same keyless parts, so the reset is really similar.  This is the exploded diagram of the 2824 keyless parts.  They are the same except for the minute train bridge, which looks different on each movement.

I'm going to start this with the movement removed from the case and the dial and hands removed.  I have other tutorials that show how to do that, but if you can't do that you probably shouldn't be trying to do this.  So I've removed the oscillating weight and put the movement in a holder.  I've got something to put the parts in and my screwdrivers and tweezers.  Also a toothpick.

Shot of the movement

Lets remove the screw holding the minute train bridge in place.

You can use the tweezers to remove the date wheel now.

Now we need to remove the setting lever jumper.  Remove the screw, then just use the tweezers to pick it up.

Now we remove the yoke.

Now remove the setting lever

Now the operating lever, and the setting wheel.  You can do it separately or together.

Here you can see the stem, sliding pinion and winding pinon.  Remove those.

Stem out.

Now I've removed the two pinions.

As they say, assembly is the reverse.  So lets put the winding pinion in place, making sure the geared surface is facing down. Now the sliding pinion, you will see a tiny tab in that tunnel.  Make sure you insert the sliding pinion where groove goes in the slot.

And here you see it.

Now slide the stem in. Might have to turn it a bit.  You will note that my quickset date change gear has been dislodged and is sitting at about 10 o'clock.  I'll put it back later.

Now the operating lever and setting wheel.

Now the setting lever.  This is actually the piece you push on with the screwdriver to remove the stem.  So this is probably what you screwed up by pushing too hard.  Note that the end of it hooks on the tiny tab on the operating lever.

Now replace the yoke.  Note that it sits in the groove on the sliding lever.

Now we will replace the setting lever jumper.  This is under tension so I place it in position, put the screw in place and use a toothpick or something like it to press it down while I screw it down.  Note that it hooks in 2 places.

I've marked the places it hooks.  Generally the lower one hooks itself when you put it in position.  After you screw it down, you use the toothpick to set the upper lever by pushing lightly upward.

See the upper one is not set here.

And its just pushed up a tiny bit here.  Without this tension it won't work correctly.  This is a very common mistake.

Now I put the quick date set wheel back in position.

I put back on the minute train bridge and screw it down.

Once I've got it back together I need to put the date wheel back on.  I usually just loosen the minute train bridge screw a bit (red arrow) and the date jumper maintaining plate screw a bit(green arrow).  Slide the date wheel under the ledge on the minute train bridge, line up the teeth with the date jumper maintaining plate and use a tweezer to push back the tiny spring (aqua arrow) to allow the date wheel to slide into position.  Not as hard as it sounds.

Tighten the screws back and done!

[brang1 4,006]

Absolutely brilliant- would not attempt in a million farking years as I would destroy the watch, probably my family the cat and most likely my car - but great work !  Ever attempted a 7750? 

[edwinowl 180]

Well done sir. Nice tutorial. Have a go chaps it really isn’t that difficult. 

[Simonix 8,660]

Very good this Rich. 

this is a job I have always struggled with!

[tonyh7 234]

Great article. I’ve successfully done it on a 6497 movement but it’s pretty fiddly. I wouldn’t even dream of trying it on those eta movements. Once again respect to Rich.

[NCRich 13,746]

3 hours ago, brang1 said:

Absolutely brilliant- would not attempt in a million farking years as I would destroy the watch, probably my family the cat and most likely my car - but great work !  Ever attempted a 7750? 

Yes an 7750 keyless reset isn't that different. 

[brang1 4,006]

6 minutes ago, NCRich said:

Yes an 7750 keyless reset isn't that different. 

Good to know- fucked up the keyless couple of times on that movement 

[NCRich 13,746]

The hardest keyless reset I've done was on a 3804B.  That is the GMT movement you find in cheaper watches. The 2813 reset is usually easier than the 2824 or7750.

[GenTLe 1,501]

4 hours ago, brang1 said:

 Ever attempted a 7750? 

The problem with the 7750 is that, to reach the keyless, you have to remove quite a lot of stuff (2 plates and all the stuff that moves date/day disks and hour chrono hand) from the top of the movement...

[BadPickle 2,741]

Nice one Rich,  I’ve done this a few times in the past,  patience is the biggest factor here. 

[BM284 1,518]

Brilliant tutorial Rich - like @brang1 I have fucked the keyless and had to send it off to @ROLIE to sort! 

[tribefan 6,768]

Can you do the next one on how to get tiny specs of metal masquerading as watch parts out of persian carpets?

[GenTLe 1,501]

5 minutes ago, tribefan said:

Can you do the next one on how to get tiny specs of metal masquerading as watch parts out of persian carpets?

LOL.

You don't work on watches near carpets, and the floor should be properly swiped or vacuumed before starting

[paul837 6]

@NCRich Thank you so much for this, I really look forward to doing this soon.

[NCRich 13,746]

37 minutes ago, paul837 said:

@NCRich Thank you so much for this, I really look forward to doing this soon.

No problem mate. Good luck on the reset.

[paul837 6]

On 02/04/2023 at 13:51, NCRich said:

No problem mate. Good luck on the reset.

I've tried this on 2 differant 2824-2's just now, it was easy to follow and seemed very easy to do, it took about 20 minutes taking my own photos.  I was unsucessful or have a differant problem though :(

• Movement 1 (that stopped on 2nd day without ever opening the case) feel like the stem is clicking in all 3 positions well but in position 1 there's no resistance to wind - and it doesn't tick if I try and charge it with automatic
• Movement 2 (that I messed up by removing stem badly) now stem is clicking in all 3 positions well but in position 1 there's no resistance to wind - it does now tick, i think it charges a little more but it wont charge anymore than 200 amplitude

Photo of reassembly then finished and in winding postion

Does anything come to mind that would make it have no resistance and not wind in position 1? I must have gone wrong somewhere twice over.

 

Thanks!

[NCRich 13,746]

The second photo that common mistake I mentioned it looks like you made. Set that spring on the setting lever jumper. It’s not set. Won’t work without that. It’s hard to say about anything else cause the photos don’t show much.