My First Submariner: MBW 5512 4-Line Gilt

[LHOOQ 0]

[Originally posted on 9 July 2011]

 

 

I never understood the obsession with Submariners. Intellectually, I could appreciate the significance of the design, both to the Rolex brand and to the evolution of dive watches. But love? A Seamaster 300 or a Fifty Fathoms would grab my attention, but Subs just left me cold. (One exception: Blue Tudor Snowflakes.) The only similar watch in my collection was a cheapo Trevor DRSD that I never wore and wasn't very good. It was a glaring omission, and one that I was determined to fix--even if there wasn't a whole lot of passion to drive me.

 

The project began in February, when I spotted ChiMan's sales listing for an MBW 5512. It was a mostly unmodified watch that, I later learned, used to belong to miquel. That’s real Canadian pedigree! I sent C a PM and even before the deal was confirmed, I started researching the 5512. That was the first time I got excited over a Sub. On Valentine's Day, to boot. (Ugh... I'm a hack.)

 

miquel's 5512, circa 2010:

 

5512s were in production for the better part of two decades, so there was no shortage of examples on which I could base a project. I kept returning to a Serpico y Laino with a caramel dial and a bluish-grey insert. Beautiful! Unfortunately, tropical dials are still the Holy Grail of modders, so I settled on another SyL: Gilt dial, 5 lines, pointed crown guards. This would be the model and ideal outcome for my project.

 

 

Later that day, ChiMan responded, saying that the 5512 was mine. That was a relief. I bombarded him with questions about where I could take the project, and where I should source the parts. And, oh, could you work on those CGs and vintagize the dial for me? I really liked the work that C had done on his Cornino, and the dial treatment on his 7922. He said yes and also mentioned that -coincidentally- he'd been thinking about a Serpico dial for the 5512. Game on!

 

The search for the right dial was a real headache, especially for someone who was just getting to know the Submariner. Forgetting about the Serpico branding for the moment, I wanted a gilt dial but couldn't find one without serious flaws. Yuki's was the best available at the time, and even it had mistakes i.e. all four lines of text were in gold. At one point, I was ready to ditch the early-5512 idea and go with a genuine matte dial. Fast-forward a couple of days and I was throwing up my hands in frustration, and thinking that maybe I could live with the stock MBW matte dial. ChiMan was starting to wonder whether my heart was really in it, or if my attentions were diverted by my ongoing V72 Daytona project. I reviewed all my options and realized that only a gilt 5512 would do. That's when C suggested commissioning a dial.

 

If you've seen the new Serpico y Laino 5-line dial on Yukiwatch and wondered how it came about, well... it started here. It was supposed to be a "one-off" dial, but it seems the exclusivity ran out after a couple of months! Yuki finished the dial by mid-April, and it reached C by the end of that month.

 

 

Very glossy, the text was bolder than I'd like, and there was no flat-topped A, but sheeeit... It's a Serpico! I told C to go ahead with aging the dial. And that's when disaster struck:

 

 

We were both bummed out by the result, to put it mildly. ChiMan offered to end the project and cancel the sale, if I wanted. I appreciated the offer, but refused to walk away in defeat. A quick search brought some good news: Sometime in March or April, NDT had produced its own 4-line 5512 dial. It was gorgeous, and seeing it was a huge relief. The project was back on! Two weeks later, C successfully vintagized the NDT dial and wrapped up the build by mid-May.

 

So why am I only posting about it now, at the end of July? Simple: Postal strike! Eventually, the 5512 was smuggled out of the rogue state of Canada, spending some time in Texas before making its way to me. Here it is with the NDT 4-liner, following Dr. Chi's special dial treatment:

 

 

It's a stunning watch, beautifully put together and modded with a keen eye for detail. I'll let let the pictures do the talking, but I want to draw attention to a few features.

 

As mentioned, this started out as a classic MBW 5512. After all these years, the old girl's still got it:

 

You can already see it in the previous picture, but ChiMan’s PCG work was outstanding. As for the crown, I have a 7mm Twinlock earmarked for this project, but the right tube is late to the party. Until then, a genuine 703 will do the heavy lifting. It's the only gen piece in this entire build, so I guess that makes this build a "super-hyper-ultra-franken" in the accepted idiom...

 

The crystal was originally a Superdome T39. I asked C to swap it out for a more modest Sternkreuz T19.

 

This Sears Roebuck-branded 2451 cost me USD 18. I'm obviously pretty pleased about that! (And, no, I didn't order it from their catalog.) My watchsmith had a minor issue while lining up the stem with the tube, but was eventually able to secure the movement with a couple of hand-made clamps. Easy access to skilled labor is... rather nice.

 

The 5512's a versatile wearer, and looks good on either Tropic rubber or a riveted Oyster bracelet. (Both options are historically correct.) The Tropic 20mm with curved ends cost me $40 last year. It's now selling at 4-8x that price, which is faintly ridiculous.

 

The bracelet is a Yuki 7206, taken from my first 1016 build.

 

ChiMan relumed the hands and did a spectacular job of it. I love the hairline cracks in the lume, even if C claims they weren't intentional. As for the insert, it's an old MBW. Blue-gray would have been nice, but I'm more than happy with the charcoal color on this one. I thought about getting a gen, but the prices on VRM make me swoon.

 

Now, finally, I understand:

 

"O stubborn, self-willed exile from the loving breast! Two gin-scented tears trickled down the sides of his nose. But it was all right, everything was all right, the struggle was finished. He had won the victory over himself. He loved... the Submariner!"

 

 

Big thanks go to ChiMan for putting this together for me, and to alligoat for making sure things went where they should go!

 

:P

 

Update, 30 July 2011: Twinlock tube finally arrives from Yuki!

 

[Akira 0]

:P

 

Way to sexy

[solkryssare 109]

Thank you for bringing your beauty over here as well. You light up the room with your incredible watches a photos my friend :P

[Member X 91]

I hate you

[myaz 3]

1) Superb photography.

2) The uncommon lengths to which you went to complete the project makes me suspect there's a deeper problem present here

No, seriously, fascinating reading and a most truly worthy result. Jealousy will be freely engendered.

[pback 0]

that is just gorgeous

[mspangl 0]

I THOUGHT I WAS SAFE AT RWG MARTIN !!!!!!!!11111111

 

Cool name btw.. Feels so familiar

[ww12345 0]

LHOOQ, do you realize that every time you build a watch, I have to build one too? Your pics just make them look so darn awesome!

Great job. Everyone needs a gilt dial Sub, in my opinion.

[twall 1]

I'm just getting into the vintage sub thing. Unlike you, I loved them from the start. I'd love a 1680, but seeing your 5512 has really given me pause. Just one question, who is this "Polex" enscribed on the case in your pic? Did "Polex" design the 5512, while Rolex did the rest of their own designs? JK

 

You photos are superb, and your written description of the whole thing just kept me riveted.

 

Thanks so much for this post. I am cemented completely in making a vintage my next rep.

[watchsuechtig 0]

wow...really awesome. a very nice model!

[LHOOQ 0]

Thanks, guys. This watch made me an instant fan of Subs, so maybe there'll be more than just this one!

 

twall: "POLEX" is a hallmark of the old MBW cases. Unlike the "MONARCH-POLFY SHITINERAND" casebacks found on cheapo reps, however, "POLEX" is a sign of quality! I should also note that taking that picture while keeping the engravings legible was very tricky.

 

And while I'm posting, let me throw in a bonus shot that better exhibits the dial texture:

 

[Crusader 0]

Great looking watch, really nice

 

 

I wonder.... if the dial and hands are scratched, how come scratched case and bracelet never became a thing?

[LHOOQ 0]

All of you know how much I love a good rep/gen comparison! I recently stopped by my watchsmith's and stepped into an impromptu get-together for some local collectors. Great turnout of vintage Subs, with more than a few No-Dates in attendance. I wasn't prepared to do the usual angle-for-angle shoot (hence, no separate thread), but I didn't want to miss the opportunity to take a few pictures.

 

So here they are. Apologies for the harsh overhead lights, but I couldn't find any white umbrellas lying around.

 

[Akira 0]

Are you fucking kidding me?

 

[SeanusMaximus 0]

My lord - I need to get my toolkit and get modding watches

[Rattler 0]

Thats awesome

[LHOOQ 0]

Thats awesome

Threadsurrection is a great use of a second post! Thanks for the bump!

[KeNnY 29]

I give this TOPIC an

 

[LHOOQ 0]

Thanks, Kenny!

[KeNnY 29]

Thanks, Kenny!

 

You are welcome mate ! Your watches are my inspiration

[LHOOQ 0]

K: I've just seen your 6542, and you've inspired ME!

[KeNnY 29]

K: I've just seen your 6542, and you've inspired ME!

 

Happy you like it mate ! When I will have the Ingods dial I will give better pictorial of my build. The only big issue is the wooky rehaut.

 

Overall it is great watch. Check my unboxing of it on marvellous Replica feedback

[KeNnY 29]

Just for to add info what I want to do, is to add Ingods gilt dial

 

[LJDRVR 0]

Sublime!

[Markrfc 3]

Apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead but what a project and watch.