sconehead 5 Posted October 6, 2009 Just a few quick measurements with some cheapy digital calipers. Hamilton measurements first, ETA 6497 measurements second... (NB* The 917 movement does have a slight lip which could be removed as per John's Illinois movement.) 1. Movement diameter, including 'lip' 38.06mm.....v.....36.81mm 2. Movement diameter, excluding 'lip' 37.19mm.....v.....36.81mm 3. Movement depth 4.40mm.....v.....4.19mm 4. Stem from movement face 1.46mm.....v.....1.46mm 5. Hour hand post size 1.56mm.....v.....1.94mm 6. Minute hand post size 1.12mm.....v.....1.31mm 7. Second hand post external tube (easiest way to measure!) 0.55mm.....v.....0.46mm As you see from above, the crown position will be spot on in any case made for a 6497/ST36 movement. The movement will fit without removing the lip in one of my 44mm Pam cases (PWC) but not in a cheapy spare case I had in my spares box. Shaving the lip would make it pop in though (anyone know the internal diameter of Getats/Jacksons 44mm cases?) Regarding the movement depth/thickness, my Pam reps all have 1-2mm freespace between the movement and caseback so that won't be a problem. The Hamilton stem is thicker by 0.20mm than that of the ETA (1.13mm) but it would be an easy mod imo. The handset is totally different and if you don't plan to use the originals it rules out using the skeleton Pam hands which I had planned (any ideas?) A few pics... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 84 Posted October 6, 2009 don't like the dial, but the movement looks like a beaut... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted October 6, 2009 Never liked the dial myself, very 'Addams Family' imo. I only got it for the movement Greg. Will Col know anything about the handset sizes, eg. 100/165/17 etc =??? with regards to my measurements? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 84 Posted October 6, 2009 Never liked the dial myself, very 'Addams Family' imo. I only got it for the movement Greg. Will Col know anything about the handset sizes, eg. 100/165/17 etc =??? with regards to my measurements? I suspect he will - hopefully his margarita hangover in the morning won't prevent him checking this thread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG 41 Posted October 6, 2009 How much of a difference is there on the hand size? I ask because I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can (I think the term they used was) "stake" the hands and make the hole smaller. Basically whatever it was that I read, I took it to mean that you can make the hole smaller which I bet is true. If you look under the hands at the bottom side of the hole, there is a lip there. This lip is removed or reduced in the "recessed pinion mod" if I recall - meaning it is shaved so that the minute hand sits lower and the pinion sits up flush with the hand. I point this out because it would seem that the lip is to set the spacing between the hand and the next hand or the hour hand and the dial. Now, if that is true, then the lip is NOT for stability. If that is true, then you could, carefully, using a punch, push that material flat and towards the center of the hole, reducing the diameter. Ta da. Let me know if it works! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sconehead 5 Posted October 6, 2009 How much of a difference is there on the hand size? I ask because I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can (I think the term they used was) "stake" the hands and make the hole smaller. Basically whatever it was that I read, I took it to mean that you can make the hole smaller which I bet is true. If you look under the hands at the bottom side of the hole, there is a lip there. This lip is removed or reduced in the "recessed pinion mod" if I recall - meaning it is shaved so that the minute hand sits lower and the pinion sits up flush with the hand. I point this out because it would seem that the lip is to set the spacing between the hand and the next hand or the hour hand and the dial. Now, if that is true, then the lip is NOT for stability. If that is true, then you could, carefully, using a punch, push that material flat and towards the center of the hole, reducing the diameter. Ta da. Let me know if it works! I've got a spare set of Pam hands I could play with I suppose...you're not making this up are you John I can widen the second hand ok, Ziggy or Francisco did a tuto I think...by the way, you couldn't get your calipers out and measure your various Getat cases could you? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG 41 Posted October 6, 2009 How much of a difference is there on the hand size? I ask because I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can (I think the term they used was) "stake" the hands and make the hole smaller. Basically whatever it was that I read, I took it to mean that you can make the hole smaller which I bet is true. If you look under the hands at the bottom side of the hole, there is a lip there. This lip is removed or reduced in the "recessed pinion mod" if I recall - meaning it is shaved so that the minute hand sits lower and the pinion sits up flush with the hand. I point this out because it would seem that the lip is to set the spacing between the hand and the next hand or the hour hand and the dial. Now, if that is true, then the lip is NOT for stability. If that is true, then you could, carefully, using a punch, push that material flat and towards the center of the hole, reducing the diameter. Ta da. Let me know if it works! I've got a spare set of Pam hands I could play with I suppose...you're not making this up are you John I can widen the second hand ok, Ziggy or Francisco did a tuto I think...by the way, you couldn't get your calipers out and measure your various Getat cases could you? Ah, you have to make the holes bigger, that should be even easier I would think - gently, with a tapered punch is how I would do it, until it is ALMOST, but not quite there, and then see if you can press it onto the pinion (but remove the pinion from the movement, will be better than pressing too hard on the movement I would think... I would use the pinion itself to achieve the last bit of widening because it must be press fit, that way you know it isn't too big.... Also, the calipers! When I read your post I remembered "Where the fuck are my eBay/China calipers? I shot off a pm to the seller - paid for on Sept. 4, still haven't arrived. So the answer, is right now I can't tell you anything.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aren 27 Posted April 18, 2014 I am interested in this old topic. The 6497 is a great size to slip into a pocket watch. I am uncertain about the "lip" issue. Sconey did you make any other conversions, or just the Hammy? I read the other threads but didn't see the outcomes. As far as increasing the hole size... A punch here would be kind of brutal wouldn't it? It wouldn't work on an older dial of porcelain. It would fracture. Perhaps a tap and dye (worked gently, in and out) to increase the hole size, or a broaching tool? Sconey...what was the outcome of this conversion? Any photos? TIA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elconquistador 46 Posted April 19, 2014 FYI the Hamy will take a 7750 stem. I have converted a dozen of these. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
