LightGeek 25 Posted March 4, 2013 The goods are finally here and I'm going to try my hand at upgrading all my Rollie date wheel overlays. The hand puller/pusher has not arrived so it's probably a few days still. Any tips or hints for success? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerkstore 14 Posted March 6, 2013 Watching this thread with interest... What's the best adhesive to use when you attach the overlay? Hypo cement? Double sided tape? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
houndoggie 58 Posted March 6, 2013 send it to 10:10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.Eric 693 Posted March 6, 2013 I used Hypo cement, and tried, and re-tried, and re-tried again. It took about 8 attempts to get it just right on the first watch. the second, got it almost perfect the first try..... First attempt (cyclops needs to be re-set) Second... Be patient and you should be able to get it Good luck!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted March 6, 2013 send it to 10:10 Watch this space. In a month is the launch of LGeek, Trusted Dealer and Watch Modder extraordinaire! Heh. I'll give it a try myself first and see how hard I fail, or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Odyseus 1 Posted March 6, 2013 I wonder is there is a slower setting glue than hypo-cement? I see you got the parts from TC?? How did you deal with him email your parts request and pay by Paypal? I got one from ebay, but the font is a little on the faint side, so I could do with a better one! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sm38sp 0 Posted March 6, 2013 Try using loc-tite. Its good stuff. I use it on all my gun sights. Just make sure you position it right the first time because its super strong stuff!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerkstore 14 Posted April 3, 2013 send it to 10:10 Watch this space. In a month is the launch of LGeek, Trusted Dealer and Watch Modder extraordinaire! Heh. I'll give it a try myself first and see how hard I fail, or not. LG: How did the DWO installs go? Any tips? What adhesive did you end up using? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted April 3, 2013 I'm still waiting for the hand remover, hypo, crystal press... etc. In the meantime, I ordered Rodico and the RWG toolkit. I bet that will arrive before all that other stuff. In the meantime, I've had to reinstall a subdial hand and it was nuts -- especially since I managed to lose it for about 15 minutes. I've done a lot of reading since then and got many ideas on how to reinstall the hands. I'm guessing I'll be undertaking this in about 1-2 weeks. Oh, and I'll be using GS Hypo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerkstore 14 Posted April 3, 2013 You will get some rodico in the RWG toolkit, too. The stuff is amazing. Besides cleaning up smudges, lint, and dust, it does a great job holding hands in place as you line up the hands pusher. I find it also helps me set and get the first couple turns on particularly small screws. I bought a head mounted magnifier tool on amazon for like 10 bucks. It's useful for getting all the hands on, but espescially the small ones. I find GS hypo hard to work with as it tends to get stringy and flow out of the tube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10:10 Watch Repair 1 Posted April 3, 2013 Use the stem so you can see the alignment of the DW. Pick a number to align that has a natural center that you can align with the stem. A 3 is good a 0 is bad. Place the overlay on dry so you can see how much it overlaps the original datwheel. That's important, because you should install under magnification and won't be able to see the whole DW and know that it's centered. Hypo cement works well, use a continuous bead all around, more or less. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10:10 Watch Repair 1 Posted April 3, 2013 You will get some rodico in the RWG toolkit, too. The stuff is amazing. Besides cleaning up smudges, lint, and dust, it does a great job holding hands in place as you line up the hands pusher. I find it also helps me set and get the first couple turns on particularly small screws. Probably not a good idea to hold a DW overlay on though... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted April 3, 2013 I'll need some plastic tweezers too... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garyun 0 Posted April 3, 2013 Looking forward to seeing this whole process.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UmpaHimself 223 Posted April 3, 2013 send it to 10:10 Watch this space. In a month is the launch of LGeek, Trusted Dealer and Watch Modder extraordinaire! Heh. I'll give it a try myself first and see how hard I fail, or not. Dude, I'm right there with you. Time to mod my Sea-Dweller. Time to email TC. Time to go pro Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted April 3, 2013 My research from when I had to reinstall a hand "on-the-fly" two days ago: Be careful when installing hands so as not to break the center wheel jewels by pressing to hard with center wheel post unsupported. --- In the factory it is done by a machine which was specially designed and built for that purpose. For the watchmaker at the bench it is something you learn/develop a technique for over time. The more you do it the easier it becomes. It would be very lengthy to go into detail. I`ll try a brief description. Date/Datejust/Day-Date are much more straightforeward than GMTs which require more setting up in order to ensure all of the hands are synchronised and date change is within tolerance. Once the dial is fitted, turn the winding crown (in handsetting) slowly until the date changes.Stop turning the winding crown the instant the date goes over. Loosely fit the hour hand. Turn the hand through 24 hrs until the date changes again and double check the position on the hour hand. If its in line fit it/push it home on the hour wheel. Turn the hour hand (always forward) to 6 AM. Now loosely fit the minute hand. This is done to ensure the hour and minute hand line up at 6 o`clock as It is the most obvious if the hands are out of line at 6. Turn the hands forward to midnight and observe the date change. It if is within tolerance fully fit the minute hand and the centre seconds hand. Now ensure all of the hands are parallel and clear of any dial markings etc..and not so high as to contact the inside of the watch crystal. For GMTs there is more lose fitting/removing and refitting of hands in order to get all hands fitted and within tolerance. Hope this makes sense --- Picture guide: http://www.pmwf.com/Watches/WatchSchool/WS 12 How to remove and replace hands and dial/WS 12 How to remove and replace hands.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Odyseus 1 Posted April 5, 2013 I don't think your PMWF link works?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LightGeek 25 Posted April 5, 2013 I don't think your PMWF link works?? http://tinyurl.com/yu8v43 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1littlegreen 1 Posted April 5, 2013 Great link LG..... Works for me. Good luck on your project, hope it turns out successful.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Odyseus 1 Posted April 5, 2013 I've just fitted a new date overlay to a GMT, and removed old overlay and cleaned up the date wheel. I then made a tiny mark on the date wheel where the middle of the '3' was. I must admit I did align the overlay by adjusting the gap between the overlay and wheel to be as even as possible ( by eye). It seems to have come out OK. I I just used a few spot welds of G-S cement, and so that it was held on securely but not too much, much incase I wanted to take it off again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
