Killasam 0 Posted May 2, 2010 Just A Quick Question, Bit Of A Newbie.. Have Only Bought 2 Reps (Both Rolex, 1Before I Found RWG 1 - After. ) But Will Be Buying Another This Month. What Is The Best Stainless Steal Used For Reps.. And Does It Wear Down Quicker Then It Should. Any Info Would Be Great Thanks Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted May 2, 2010 Most reps are said to use 316L SS but there are some now that are 316F (I think??) You would be hard pressed to tell the difference unless they were side by side IMO but the F version is said to be 'brighter' and closer to gen rolex. Either will be fine, don't worry - gone are the days of cheap tin reps that wear away in a month! (Well, on here anyway - I'm sure they still exist for unsuspecting members of the public not on these forums!) Stick to the dealers on here and you can't really go wrong but feel free to post asking for opinions before you buy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Killasam 0 Posted May 2, 2010 Most reps are said to use 316L SS but there are some now that are 316F (I think??) You would be hard pressed to tell the difference unless they were side by side IMO but the F version is said to be 'brighter' and closer to gen rolex. Either will be fine, don't worry - gone are the days of cheap tin reps that wear away in a month! (Well, on here anyway - I'm sure they still exist for unsuspecting members of the public not on these forums!) Thanks.. My First Rolex Rep Was A Datejust And Is Broken Now After A Year. That Was Before I Found This Forum.. Im Going To Be Buying A SS Daytona From Mary She Said It Was 316L And She Said If There Is A Problem With The Movement She Will Fix It For Two Years. Witch Is Almost As Big A Warranty As Most Watch Companys These Days lol Im Glad I Found This Forum And Glad You Replied Thanks For You Help Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scropper 0 Posted May 2, 2010 I honestly don't think that all the reps are 316L or 316F. The way these things are presumably made (ie - dodgily!) would suggest variation in the quality of the materials used. Think there was a thread a while back on the geek where a member actually tested the metals used. Can't remember exactly but I think one was almost 316L and one was something completely different. So; just get what you like and hope for the best buddy! S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmd33 0 Posted May 2, 2010 The cheap ones I get are all made of lead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted May 2, 2010 The cheap ones I get are all made of lead. lol As above, there is truth to the point that they will use what they can get their hands on in some cases, but the ones available from the dealers on here are likely to be better than anything off an unknown (scam) site IMO. What daytona are you looking at? If it's a seconds at 6 model, it will very likely break due to the number of added transfer gears to move the seconds from the 9 position on the 7750 movement. Stick to a seconds at 9 'vintage' model (pre-2000 I think?) and it will be much more reliable! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Killasam 0 Posted May 2, 2010 The cheap ones I get are all made of lead. lol As above, there is truth to the point that they will use what they can get their hands on in some cases, but the ones available from the dealers on here are likely to be better than anything off an unknown (scam) site IMO. What daytona are you looking at? If it's a seconds at 6 model, it will very likely break due to the number of added transfer gears to move the seconds from the 9 position on the 7750 movement. Stick to a seconds at 9 'vintage' model (pre-2000 I think?) and it will be much more reliable! It Is A Seconds At Six.. But I Have Read All The Posts And Still Want To Take The Risk. If I Take It To A Jewellers ( They Are Rep Friendly ) And Get It Tested And It Is Not What Mary ( WatchInternational ) Said I Will Email Her But She Said She Has A Watchsmith Check All Her Watches First Right So IT Should Be Fine. Also The Only Reason I Am Risking The Seconds At 6 Is Mary Will Fix It If It Goes Wrong And Im Hoping Im Lucky And It Works For A Good Year Or So then I Will Pay To Have It Serviced So It Runs Abit Better Thanks Again Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted May 2, 2010 I am surprised Mary has made the 2-year guarantee, I have to be honest, especially with the problematic seconds at 6 movement! But respect to her if she has If you can get it serviced and graphite treated then it should last a lot longer, but it's not an ideal situation, sadly DLCing the main plate the transfer gears rest on is also a possible option but I don't know if avitt on RWG2 is offering it to people or was just experimenting for his own interest... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luthier 1 Posted May 3, 2010 Sam, nobody cares the steel, it will last longer, than you'll live. Your caps, that's what bother me... Just kidding... Tona is great watch, go for it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fakemaster 0 Posted May 3, 2010 The silver kind is the best. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jycegrcia 0 Posted May 3, 2010 As far as I know most of the reps are 316L or 904L stainless steel. Many thousands of vintage Rolex are still in this world today with the industry norm 316L. The difference between 316L and 904L is that 316L has got higher nickle content and it is harder than the 904L. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 81 Posted May 3, 2010 As far as I know most of the reps are 316L or 904L stainless steel. Many thousands of vintage Rolex are still in this world today with the industry norm 316L. The difference between 316L and 904L is that 316L has got higher nickle content and it is harder than the 904L. Wrong. 1. Only Rolex use 904L (which is the hardest) - there are NO reps made with 904L steel. Some manufacturers use 440. Most 316. 2. Better quality reps tend to use 316L, although you'll find a lot of cheapies made from 220. Street junk is usually made of plated pot metal 3. Trying to plug your lame website via your sig by spouting bullshit on this board is going to result in one thing only.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Member X 91 Posted May 3, 2010 Oh dear, banned after 3 posts... The banhamster was on form today! lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg_r 81 Posted May 3, 2010 Oh dear, banned after 3 posts... The banhamster was on form today! lol Banhamster is always hungry... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AllergyDoc 40 Posted May 3, 2010 As far as I know most of the reps are 316L or 904L stainless steel. Many thousands of vintage Rolex are still in this world today with the industry norm 316L. The difference between 316L and 904L is that 316L has got higher nickle content and it is harder than the 904L. Too much. I haven't heard that BS in years. I think that thread about the guy testing the steel was on RWG2. Bike Mike did the tests: Results:Case Back – 409 Stainless Clasp – 316 Stainless Bracelet – 304 Stainless Case – 304 Stainless w/ a ton of nasty carbon inclusions Bike Mike's Thread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmd33 0 Posted May 3, 2010 Most my reps are 904 (and I paid $1,500 for my 904 Noobmariner) Oh, wait......this post is supposed to go in the Jetmind thread - is it too late?????? (I think Col already won) LOL!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
trailboss99 996 Posted May 4, 2010 Too late, and there is no way known you are getting JM cuff links! Col. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
