Carrera CV2A10 Case, Pushers, Bezel Insert, Chapter Ring Work In Progress

[SSTEEL 0]

Found it, Loctite 222MS

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item51ae70f1be

 

Actually there are two types of 222, one is Military strength the other low strength.

 

I will go with the latter, thats right isn't it Jim?

 

This one http://www.ebay.com/itm/321168354594

Edited August 5, 2013 by SSTEEL

[J!m 289]

Sorry for the late reply...

 

Mine says: "Low Strength Purple" but no ID number on it unfortunately. It is a tiny vial from a 3-pack (0.5ml), so I guess they figured it was not needed...

 

NOT Military strength- that sounds like "Weapons Grade" to me which is probably designed to survive a nuclear holocaust...

 

I used this for the crown tube in my 5517 and it is water-tight (not sure how deep however)

[SSTEEL 0]

Thanks again Jim, I have purchased some 222 purple low strength now, so will report my findings with it when I eventually carry out the pushers work, and the water resistance testing afterwards

[J!m 289]

That sounds like the stuff....

[SSTEEL 0]

Quick update regarding the pushers work.

 

I have now received my hole bore measuring tool, and have my HSS micro tap and die, so will be tackling this work on one of my donor Carrera cases soon but first I want to test, and practice.

 

So now, I'm currently awaiting delivery of a micro HSS drill set, and a suitable donor piece of Stainless steel to drill a few 1.8mm holes, and check against the thread on the genuine pushers.

 

I will document this here also in case anyone else is interested

[scorpion 0]

SS whilst I admire your determination I must report that I personally am still 100% happy with my rep version which in reality gets worn about once a month in rotation. I wish you luck in your quest but wonder in the end if its all worth it and how much you will have spent compared to buying a gen in the first place.

 

[SSTEEL 0]

No fun in just buying a gen Chris when you can have fun making your own I see your point though.

 

Anyway, little update on the gen pushers work. I now have all the tools needed to complete the work..

 

 

The only thing holding me back now is finding something suitable to practise on. I have purchased some micro drill bits, and a drill press, and wish to practise tap and die work before touching the Carrera case. Anyone recommend anything to use to drill and practice on?

[Hazz 0]

Just brought this up, as I am now thinking, should I ?

awesome work and skills here.

[P4GTR 0]

This thread has the candy... How did I miss it? Subscribed. Awesome Steel!

[P4GTR 0]

Whole gen for $1600, grab it Steel!

 

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f29/fs-tag-heuer-carrera-cv2010-chronograph-canada-966457.html

[SSTEEL 0]

Whole gen for $1600, grab it Steel!

 

http://forums.watchu...ada-966457.html

 

Different model that mate, thats the CV2010, which is just thew date, and different dial, and case whereas mine is the CV2A10 day date.

[P4GTR 0]

yah, I know. I was a gen CV2014 owner. Just wanted to throw it out there as you probably have that much tied up in parts!

[dnrc 0]

good work with that watch mate, my one from silix is waiting at the PO for collection tomorrow.

[SSTEEL 0]

It's been a while since I last posted an update on my Carrera franken. Been so busy working on other peoples watches, I haven't had any time to work on my own, but with recently getting my genuine Carrera crystal AR'd by Sunnydale, I thought it would seem fitting to post my Crystal post here, along with the genuine tube, and insert work from today.

 

First up, the genuine sunny dale crystal part..

 

Better late than never as they say, I finally got round to fitting my genuine Carrera crystal with Ate's double AR. Here's my photos. Whilst I was at it I fit my genuine tube, and tried the genuine bezel insert, but more on that in the Tag Heuer section..

 

First up, some photos of the rep crystal fitted in the watch..

 

 

 

Genuine crystal with sunny dale right

 

 

And in the watch… (excuse the crooked look, not secured movement).

 

 

And a wrist shot..

 

 

Thanks Ate, very happy mate

 

 

Now onto the genuine Carrera tube work. Not many photos, just some comparison shots, and a final fitted shot. The rep tube pushes out, and the genuine one has also been friction fit..

 

Genuine tube. The thinner part is what fits to the case.

 

Side by side with the removed rep tube, the differences are obvious. The genuine tube is actually more superior quality, and a thinking metal.

 

Genuine tube fitted. Just noticed the darn photo is blurred, and out of focus. Anyhow, its pressed in, and I added a little ptfe based binding agent to help with WR.

 

The genuine tube being longer, more so on the outer part which the crown pushes onto, you need to either unscrew the crown from the stem a little, and apply some thread lock such as Loctite 222, or replace the stem, which I chose to do.

 

The following photo is with the crown fitted, but be aware, on the rep case, there are two small shim washers that are stuck to the case, this photo you can just about see them. I have since removed them after they came off, and stuck themselves to my genuine crown. Now with genuine tube, no longer needed.

 

Onto the bezel insert swap. Didn't happen, see below photos, and check out the differences. I can make it fit but milling the bezel ring, which luckily can be removed from the watch case. There is a photo below of this bezel ring for reference mated up with the genuine insert.

 

Rep insert. Can be described as a piece of tin with double sided sticky tape on

 

Gen insert. Has a uniformed shape on the back.

 

Both side by side

 

Next up as mentioned a little earlier, the bezel ring. As mentioned earlier in the thread also, on the black bezel insert Carrera, the insert is a seperate component whereas with the Carrera with the chromed bezel insert, this is actually a one piece component, bezel insert and bezel ring, all one piece.

 

This is the case with the replica's, I am unsure of the genuine case bezel/insert construction.

 

 

Bezel ring rear.

 

Bezel ring front where the insert fits to.

 

Genuine bezel insert mating with the rep bezel ring.

 

As you can see, the fitment is not going to happen, and rather than me trying to sand down a $350 genuine insert, I will try and mill the inner circumference of a spare bezel ring first.

 

So for now I refitted the rep bezel insert, which is poo, and has a print error/issue with the letter Y of TACHYMETRE

 

In the following photo, the rep bezel insert is not aligned up correctly, this I will address with the genuine insert, plus the rep chapter ring is also off, so will correct that also.

 

 

So for now, thanks for following, and I hope some of this info in this thread is of some use to those of you who may consider franking your Carrera CV2A10.

[CaptainFantastic 509]

Even with the flaws you have pointed out, this this is stunning. I love the AR on the crystal. I'm fortunate that mine isn't too bad but I know some people have a real problem with the AR on these reps.

 

Looking great and still a work in progress. I'm in awe of your patience and persistence on this one.

[SSTEEL 0]

Even with the flaws you have pointed out, this this is stunning. I love the AR on the crystal. I'm fortunate that mine isn't too bad but I know some people have a real problem with the AR on these reps.

 

Looking great and still a work in progress. I'm in awe of your patience and persistence on this one.

 

Patience, and lack of time really, but not complaining.

 

So today I decided to continue with some modding, chapter ring, and pushers.

 

Crystal, and bezel insert removed. You can see the small hole which homes the chapter ring to the case, but this is 1 second off, so will file off the nipple from the back of the chapter ring, and correct alignment. The chapter ring was originally held in place, crudely with four small pieces of double sided sticky tape.

 

 

Gen pushers

 

 

Donor case for practising, tap and die set at the ready..

 

 

And here we go, found 2.5mm tap to be about right, but later discovered after tapping thread, its not..

 

 

The thread the tap cut is not the same, its the right size, but the thread is incorrect, so need to investigate this further on.

 

 

Just a trial fit, as you can see, tapping any new thread into a case has to be done with so much precision its so easy to screw up, thankfully this is a donor case as mentioned earlier, and the thread I tapped, although incorrect, placing the pusher in it you can see how its alignment is off.

 

 

How I found out the thread was wrong almost cost me one pusher, but luckily the little damage to the pusher thread is minimal, and once I have four out the correct tap, I should be ok.

 

 

Thats about it for now, I am currently working on the chapter ring alignment. Updates on that to follow later this afternoon.

 

[SSTEEL 0]

OK, onto the chapter ring.

 

 

Then set up a good working position to apply the two part epoxy resin. All surfaces were etched.

 

 

And its done, and drying..

 

 

Next up while that dries I took a look at the genuine bezel insert, and a spare bezel ring..

 

 

As you can see in the photo below, the fitment is off due to a raised lip around the inner circumference of the rear of the insert.

 

 

My original plan was to modify the actual bezel ring, but after looking at it again, I could only do what needed to be done with a lathe, and I don't have one yet. With a lathe it would be easy to cut a ring out of the bezel ring, just enough so the insert would fit. Without a lathe, its not possible to sand the inner of the ring as this would ruin the ring altogether and integrity of water resistance. The ring is friction fit to the watch case.

 

I decided to modify the rear of the insert itself, it will be bonded in place when done anyway now.

 

So what I did to accomplish this in an even, accurate way was to tape down some P800 glass paper to my bench, then using blue masking tape, attached a piece to a good solid, straight piece of wood, sticky side down. Then stuck the insert face to is giving me a perfectly flat working position on the glass paper.

 

Circular motions, up and down, left to right, and whilst doing so, stopping every so often to check how much, or less is remaining to sand down.

 

Below is where I stopped for the evening, its almost there, just need to sand a little more, 0.05 of a millimetre, and it will be ready to fit the watch bezel ring.

 

 

Side profile shot. Much better than earlier, but as said, more to sand tomorrow.

 

 

Going back to the watch case, prior to fitting the chapter ring, I removed both rep pushers, and gave the case a clean in the ultrasonic bath, the amount of crap that came off it was shocking.

 

Anyhow, I will refit the rep pushers when I'm done, and check the case for water resistance. If the pushers pass the WR test, I just might as well leave them until I find the right tap thread I need to tap threads into the case.

 

Thanks for reading/looking

[SSTEEL 0]

Finished off the genuine insert, and re-pressed in the crystal, then to add to WR I gs-hypo cement around the crystal, and used 2 part epoxy resin to bond the bezel insert into the bezel ring. Tomorrow I will carefully remove any excess glue, taking extra care with the crystal as to not remove the AR coating.

 

A few photos from this mornings work..

 

 

Trial fit of dial alignment..

 

 

Trial fit of bezel insert..

 

 

And bonded into place, ensuring alignment is correct..

 

[911flyer 0]

This is gravy, Doc! Nice work and looking forward to the continued super duper work!! :-))

 

Epic!

[Pharmo 33]

This is some great work going on here Mick..

 

Keep it coming mate - loving the pics.

 

p.s when you have done it all you can sell it to me

[SSTEEL 0]

Passed the 6ATM test Deep rehaut anyone :P Chapter Ring rather.

 

 

Still not done with it yet. I am currently looking to fine the correct tap size so I can finally fit my genuine pushers. I am also considering swapping the case for one of my donors. Reason for the later? I actually quite like the profile more on the donor case. Minute detail, but being a perfectionist, I'm my own worse enemy lol

[Olly 0]

Yo have to include the pitch of the thread and then the tap size. So if say you was tapping M8 you would have to drill exactly 6.8mm in order to have a 1.5mm concentric thread. Also i noticed that that tap left a shite finish, you need a cutting compound like Treflex or there will be pick up that will be torn into the fresh thread. It will chew it up a lot. Also back the tap off every 2, 360 Deg turns to aid to the clean cut.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

 

 

Olly

[SSTEEL 0]

Yo have to include the pitch of the thread and then the tap size. So if say you was tapping M8 you would have to drill exactly 6.8mm in order to have a 1.5mm concentric thread. Also i noticed that that tap left a shite finish, you need a cutting compound like Treflex or there will be pick up that will be torn into the fresh thread. It will chew it up a lot. Also back the tap off every 2, 360 Deg turns to aid to the clean cut.

 

Good luck mate

 

 

 

 

Olly

 

Good advice mate, understood. The tap and die set I have is crap, so just goes to show, you get what you pay for. It was not cheap cheap, but certainly wasn't expensive either.

 

I did come across a great website that detailed pitch etc of a tap but it was for M3 sizes, and not micro sizes.

 

Do you know of any sites with reference charts? I'm guessing my digital calliper may not be up to the job, and may need a micrometer?

[Olly 0]

Check out a zeus book

[SSTEEL 0]

I will look that up, cheers. Just found out the sizes on Oferi.

 

Head Diameter 4.65 mm, diameter of thread is 2.38 mm, length at 9.56 mm.