Aftermarket sub bezel insert 'shootout'

[watchgeek1 0]

Although my TC sub hasn't arrived, all the inserts have! So this morning I broke out the camera and took a few shots. I've not yet done detailed measurements on the inserts, but I'll do a follow up post tonight when I get home.

 

The inserts I have are: Otto Frei, Esslinger, Clark, Raffles time, Alpha watch. Both the Raffles time and Alpha watch inserts really aren't quite the same standard as the other parts (at least IMHO). Both of them come with double sided tape for fixing the insert. The three other parts have a good quality feel to them.

 

First up, here are images of each insert.

 

Otto Frei (OF, $35):

 

Esslinger (ES, $39):

 

Clark (GC, $14):

 

Raffles time (RT, $13):

 

Alpha watch (AW, $13):

 

Comparison of the backs:

 

From the shot of the backs you can see the bevel edge (i.e. the flat piece around the outer edge) has different thicknesses (the RT doesn't even have one). It looks like the Clark bevel is thinner than the Esslinger one, which is thinner than the Frei part. My guess is the Frei part would feel the stiffest in terms of inserting it into a bezel, but I'd have to check diameters first.

 

Next the money shot, namely a pearl comparison (note ordering of the inserts is the same in all shots):

 

The Clark and RT have the nicest looking pearls IMHO (I'll do a lume test tonight). I thought the OF and Esslinger pearls were the same, but actually the Esslinger has what looks like some epoxy over the lume.It looks like both of them would be better if there was just a bit more lume on the pearl. The less said about the AW pearl the better.

 

Now for the fonts. The OF part looks quite like the "thin font" insert, and I think it is quite elegant (at least IMHO). The Esslinger is slightly thicker but the paint job is perhaps a bit crisper. The Clark font is shorter and even thicker, but still looks good.

 

50s:

 

40s:

 

30s:

 

20s:

 

10s:

 

My conclusions: One inserts stands out as having a lower quality feel than the rest - namely the AW. The RT insert also isn't quite in the same ball park as the OF, ES & GC but it does have a nice pearl and is reasonably stiff.

 

The Clark insert has a nice pearl and IMHO has a quality feel. For $14 there isn't much to complain about at all. My favourite font is probably the one on the OF, and if the pearl was better I think I'd be set on that. The ES just nudges the OF though because of its better pearl, but really this is all just personal opinion and others might see things differently.

 

I'll get some measurements done next and a lume comparison tonight!

 

Thanks for reading!

 

Watchgeek1

[HeavyKrush 16]

Great job WG!

[HeavyKrush 16]

A couple photos of a gen just pulled off the web. Not sure what rolex model exactly....

 

 

[HeavyKrush 16]

Quick compare...

 

[Frankt8242 1]

WHY...??????

[PeterPotamus 2]

great info, thanks for sharing

[SSTEEL 0]

Superb info my friend, thanks for taking the time, and money to invest in these and share the photos/comparisons. To me, the Clarks is the no brainer, superb looking pearl on that.

 

Need some measurements and lume now I know you will provide

 

Would be handy if we could get some nice high res photos of gens too, so we could maybe compile a side by side comparison of these with tyour inserts as-well.

[SSTEEL 0]

Got a link to the seller of the Clark insert? I forget the ebay shop name now.

[flyr 4]

http://www.google.co....47883778,d.aWM

[SSTEEL 0]

Thanks!

[sardonix 1]

Great to see, thanks for the effort.

Obvious different pearls, but also different structure of finish which one has the same rough surface like gen in your opinion?

 

[watchgeek1 0]

OK, first things first - the measurements.

 

For each insert I made three measurements using vernier calipers across three different diagonals. On the cheaper inserts like AW and RT I found that there was significant variance for one diagonal versus another - i.e. these things aren't very round. One insert stood out in terms of consistency of measurement - the OF is exactly the same regardless of the measurement diagonal! Very impressive, although as you'll see below the dimensions look slightly large.The Essingler is a close second, having very slightly more variance and the Clark is third, but only because of the internal measurements which might be down to me. I'll give the mean value and then range around that, all dimensions in mm.

 

Not sure if anyone can verify (if you can - that would be awesome), but according to a few posts on the web the gen dimensions are

 

Inside: 30.7 outside: 37.65

 

Inside Outside

OF 30.60 +-0.00 37.70 +-0.00

ES 30.59 +-0.01 37.55 +-0.01

GC 30.64 +-0.02 37.59 +-0.01

RT 30.67 +-0.01 37.55 +-0.05

AW 30.65 +-0.05 37.51 +-0.05

 

I suspect both the AW & RT parts bend under the pressure of the calipers coming together. But overall the three "quality" inserts seem to hold their shape well.

 

You can draw your own conclusions relative to the gen size. The OF insert is going to be tough to put into the bezel if the gen numbers are right.Small dimensions on the inside diameter means you'll be hard up against the crystal, while the opposite is true on the outside diameter. I suspect both he Clark and Esslinger fit well.

 

Will answer other questions next.

 

Cheers

 

watchgeek1

[watchgeek1 0]

Re: relative quality of paint jobs.

 

One of the problem with this comparison, which I openly admit, is that I don't have a gen insert. At the current going rate on TRF it isn't likely to happen any time soon either. I'd rather keep the wife happy. I can compare the overall surface qualities of the inserts though (through a x2.5 magnifying glass), and I'll give some qualitative views on those:

 

AW: Very flat surface and reflective paint job. Not much evidence of pitting at all. It's almost too good to be honest and looks a bit plastic.

 

RT: Evidence of surface texture. Reflections are there but are diffused by the surface texture. It actually has a quality look to it.

 

GC: Slightly more reflective that the RT, although if I was completely honest I'd say the paint job isn't quite as good as the RT. There isn't much in it at all though.

 

ES: Less smooth than the GC. Reflections are quite diffuse. Definitely the least smooth thus far. Paint job on the font looks fine, it just feels like they didn't polish the aluminium as much before painting it.

 

OF: I'd say about the same reflective characteristics as the Clark. Smoother than the ES part, and actually my favourite font.

 

Don't ask me to take pictures to show this as to be honest you need to move back and forth over the insert with a mag glass to see the impact. But of the three quality inserts I'd say the OF and GC stand out in terms of their smoothness.

 

Cheers

 

watchgeek1

[watchgeek1 0]

Oh and big thanks to Heavykrush for photoshoping the gen pearl comparison. The gen pearl really is the "supermodel" of inserts, I guess we'll see how close TC can get!

 

Will do a lume comparison later tonight.

[Sakurai 1]

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I really liked the numbers on the OF, but agree that the Clark has the best pearl.

[LightGeek 25]

Thanks for doing this! The Clark is quite unrefined when magnified to this level. Just goes to show that "fake nipples" can't match the "real deal" yet. Now I really can't wait to see what TC has to offer!

[watchgeek1 0]

And finally as promised - a lume comparison.

 

Ordering is as before, (from bottom) OF, ES, GC, RT, AW

 

 

The Esslinger hands down has the best lume. It holds its charge much better than the rest too... That was kind of unexpected!

 

Cheers

 

watchgeek1

[James. 4]

Interesting read. For me, the clark is still the way to go in lieu of going gen. Until TC STARTS SELLING HIS DAMNED LV INSERT!?!!? but seriously TC, sell it.

[SSTEEL 0]

Thanks for the update, and additional info my friend, really appreciated mate.

[watchgeek1 0]

Thanks to everyone for compliments - it was fun. If anyone has any suggestions for other inserts to compare (that aren't outrageously expensive) then I'd consider adding another to the "collection".

 

Oh and kudos to Otto Frei, their listed dimensions and my measurements agree exactly.

[J!m 289]

Great work!

 

And I have to agree that Otto Frei is the place to go when their part is what you need.

 

There are a LOT of gen watches floating around with OF parts, due to crazy price on gen parts. Particularly something like a bezel insert!

 

I have a gen Planet Ocean and considered many times getting a replacement bezel insert from the 'bay... I never did it and am having a new gen insert (which MUST be bought with the bezel ring!!) installed now as my watch is overhauled. Ouch.

 

Thanks again for your work on this. I might suggest an OF insert with a "lost" pearl might be the ultimate insert...

[SSTEEL 0]

 

 

And I have to agree that Otto Frei is the place to go when their part is what you need.

 

 

 

In this instance I feel the Otto Frei insert is quite poor looking at the comparison photos. I would certainly prefer a Clark.

[watchgeek1 0]

The OF pearl isn't very good but I confess I find the font and paint job quite nice - indeed probably my fave. That said, it likely wouldn't fit a TC bezel anyway

 

But the issue of pearl replacements intrigues me as I think, other than size issues with the bezel, the OF part with a Clark pearl would be top of my list.

[HeavyKrush 16]

Seems, of the bunch, the Clark is the choice given the pearl ad the font size. But what the hell do I know.

[SSTEEL 0]

But the issue of pearl replacements intrigues me as I think, other than size issues with the bezel, the OF part with a Clark pearl would be top of my list.

 

Do you plan on removing the OF pearl, and fitting it into the Clark insert?