Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer 160 Anniversary

[mbjoer 0]

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Anniversary 160

 

A small review with pictures.

 

 

 

This watch is a replica of a limited edition run of the Marine Chronometer. It was produced in 2006 to commemorate the foundation of the UN factory in 1846. From what I have seen it is even a rather unusual replica, although I doubt that the production run was quite as limited as UN's run of Gens.

 

The main difference to the standard â€1846†Marine Chronometer is the enamel dial (not very visible on pictures) and the â€1846†substituted with â€160 Anniversaryâ€.

 

I received mine from Reg (Nariika) in a very easy transaction. I have now dealt with him a couple of times and his responses, response time and the quality of his delivery seem excellent. I can only recommend him as a dealer.

 

It is a relatively inexpensive replication of a very expensive watch, which should be kept in mind when reading this review.

 

 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE WATCH

 

As ever when I evaluate a watch, my initial and overriding interest is how it stacks up on it's own as a watch, rather than the accuracy of the replication.

 

On this score this watch is pretty good, but not quite as good as one could have hoped, even at the relatively low price.

 

The positive sides are:

 

The watch looks pretty.

 

The Roman numerals and enamel dial provide a very classic design, suitable for a watch celebrating 160 years of history. Also the use of blue hands, black and red text and red gold looks fantastic â€" if a slight bit blingy.

 

When seen from above it is a very beautiful watch. Enamel is unusual in modern watches and gives this one a unique and attractive look.

 

The Bezel is nicely finished with good looking saw teeth.

 

 

The engravings on the back as well as the rotor are very nicely done (ignoring the Chronograph claim... - see negative), deep and looking good. The rotor also has a 22K marking.

 

 

The number on the side of the watch gives a nice nautical feel appropriate to this watch.

 

 

Also the rubber and gold works really well. Strap looks (and smells) good. The engravings on the metal in the strap are deep and nice.

 

 

The negative sides are:

 

All reps have negative aspects and all rep owners have different tolerances.

 

To me the main negative about this one is that is claims on the back to be a Chronograph which it obviously is not. Any such false claim makes a watch an obvious fake. I really hope one day that the rep makers will start to proof read their case backs before starting production....

 

The gold on the strap and buckle is of a different and darker shade of gold from the watch itself. And the rotor has a third colour. All in all it looks a bit like it was put together available bits rather than a total design. It is not terribly noticeable when on the wrist and hard to capture on a picture. But when you sit with it it is VERY noticeable. Unfortunately I have not managed to capture this clearly in the pictues.

 

The buckle is very hard to open and close and even worse, the quality of the gold plating is very poor. I have only worn it a few times and the gold is already coming off. Very poor, and so far the poorest quality plating I have come across. I suspect the case is of a much higher quality.

 

The power reserve will not move much past the ½ mark.

I am not sure how many hours that provides. But it would be nice to get it to full up, even if it makes no real difference to the actual the power reserve.

 

The â€gold†deployant says Titanium. Such inconsistency is rather common in the rep-world (I have seen it on Hublot cases as well) and very unfortunate as it is an instant tell to anyone who knows nothing about watches. Also not possible to fix unless one can source a Gen deployant.

 

The case has no â€hallmarksâ€. Again an immediate tell for the untrained eye, since it is rather unlikely that a Gen gold watch would not have these (which indeed it has...).

 

The detailing on the crown is rather blurred. Not up to gen standard by any means, but I have seen worse.

 

The clasp is laser etched, not engraved.

 

The crystal is mineral and has no or very little AR treatment. This is fixeable and in my opinion AR is a required mod, as the light playing in the enamel otherwise drowns in glare.

 

The hands have no lume. Again an easy fix if required at all.

 

 

MY MODIFICATIONS:

 

The watch was immediately sent off to Domenico. The following has been done to it:

 

The glass has been AR treated. Slightly more complicated than usual due to the cyclop, but very well done. It has significantly improved the looks of the watch.

 

Hands have had a re-lume. Not a great deal as the area available for lume is quite small. But it does mean that I can see the time through the night if I wake up. Not a must.

 

Water-proofing. A watch like this one should be able to survive a trip in the water. It is now water-proofed, but due to the problems with the plating listed above, I am not sure that I will actually swim with it.

 

The total cost of watch and modifications roughly US$ 300.

 

 

 

IMPRESSIONS AFTER MODIFICATIONS:

 

When on the wrist, I like it. The enamel dial and its classic design elements, make it a very 21st Century version of a 19th Century watch. It reminds me of my Great-grandfather's pocket watch.

On a distance it looks convincingly like a real UN.

 

But take if off, look a bit more closely at it and it cannot convince. Not because of inaccurate replication, but poor detailing. I am now considering if I should have the strap and deployant re-plated or if that would be throwing good money after bad. Shame.

 

 

 

COMPARISONS TO THE GEN:

 

GEN:

 

 

Another Gen (Platinum):

 

 

Replica:

 

 

The Gen comes in two/six versions: 18 ct Rose Gold and Platinum, both with either leather strap, solid metal bracelet or rubber/metal band. Apparently there are a total of 160 Gold and 160 Platinum Gens out there. With such a small number og Gens the comparison to the gen is in my opinion of little significance. There is not much risk of ever meeting one.

 

The Rep comes in two versions: Rose Gold and Steel, both with rubber/metal band. Mine is the replication of the gold version with a list price of $28,000 or almost 100 times my total cost of the rep!

 

 

 

Technical Data for the Gen:

 

Movement caliber UN-26, 11 ½â€â€

28 jewels

Power-Reserve approximately 42 h

Self-winding

Power reserve indicator at 12 oâ€clock.

Small seconds and round date window at 6 oâ€clock.

Crown screw down security crown

Diameter 43 mm

Water-resistance The watch says 100m but the official sales material says 200m. Hmmm (!)

Crystal anti reflective sapphire crystal

Case-back open case back with sapphire crystal

 

Technical details for the Rep:

 

Movement: Myota Asian Clone 23J movement

Power reserve. Working but not fully and duration is unknown.

Mineral glass back and front w/o anti-reflex

Water resistant to swim.

 

 

 

The case back is taken from the stock Marine Chronometer, and is totally different from the Gen. So - of course - is the movement.

 

Gen (Platinum):

 

 

Replica:

 

 

 

 

2. The watch number (engraved on the side of the case) is impossible.

The gen model is a series limited to 160 units. The rep offered by dealers shows watch number 7161 (Obviously impossible with only 160 units in circulation...)

 

 

 

 

Conclusion:

 

Nice and pretty watch. Because it is a rare beast it could also be totally convincing if only it was of a good quality.

 

By comparison to the so-called super-reps (and the Gen) it is a very inexpensive watch.

 

It is probably worth the money it costs. However overall this is not one of the best replications in the market. It has too many flaws to the untrained eye which would give it away as a Rep.

 

I do like it though and will wear it. However, nice as it is, this one could never pretend to be a Gen.

Edited May 2, 2012 by mbjoer

[gran 198]

Thanks for this review..and I agree with your conclusions

[dingle 57]

Another nice review MB. Thanks for sharing.

[thewatchbuyeril 0]

amazing watch

[Stuvetjee 17]

Very nice and detailed review here! thanks! Due all the imperfections, i still love mine so much!

 

[myaz 3]

Bravo. Thank you for a very detailed review. Great pics too.

[Watchlover1996 0]

Awesome review man I really enjoyed reading it! I agree with your conclusion but it's still a nice maxi to wear out an about occasionally in my opinion, loved the pics and comparisons keep up the great work man !