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ShovelnTC

DOA Black Bay, ETA Movement ID Advise please?

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ShovelnTC

Hey Guys,

 

Well after my first year of Rep buying I have finally received a faulty watch which is really my first disappointment in this hobby but of course not un-expected.

 

After the lengthy development thread of the Tudor black bay I found myself drawn to this watch and after initially hesitating until some reviews came in I went ahead and bought one.

 

I received it this week but found straight away that it stopped every time the second hand got to the 5 marker and then with a light tap it started again and then stopped again at the 7 marker.

 

When looking from the side of the crystal with a lupe I could see that the second hand looked high at the tip so I thought that it may be binding on the crystal.

 

So being that I'm really not interested in sending the watch back to China I opened her up and adjusted the second hand tip to sit closer to the minute hand and that seemed to fix the problem.

 

But after a few hours it again stopped.

 

I wore it all day yesterday and seemed OK but during the night it stopped completely and even after some hand winding this morning it is still stopping but in random positions so it appears that it is indeed cactus.

 

With all of my hobbies I'm not interested in getting anyone else involved (apart from discussion and advises of course) so I believe my options are to either sell this on to a tinkerer for repair at greatly deflated price or replace the movement.

 

I've done a few hand changes and one dial change so I'm confident in the minor stuff but I just find it too hard to do more intricate things so am not going to attempt a movement service.

 

So my question is, if I buy a new movement such as a gen swiss ETA or Sellita how do identify the correct version to buy? (pinion height etc) and will the existing stem fit the new movement or will I have to remove the crown and fit to the new stem and then will I need to modify the stem or get a specific stem length etc?

 

Thanks for any assistance.

 

Mark.

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Odyseus

Why won't you send it back to China??

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dalboy

I'm assuming you have as yet not contacted the dealer .

 

 

Dal.

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mrtsumoto80

ETA 2824 me thinks

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ShovelnTC

Why won't you send it back to China??

I'm assuming you have as yet not contacted the dealer .

 

 

Dal.

 

No I haven't contacted the dealer, I made the call to open it up as I thought it was a minor issue so I don't feel that I can now expect the dealer to replace/repair the watch.

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OmegaOverlord

where about's are you based i recommend sending it to a watchsmith

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ShovelnTC

ETA 2824 me thinks

 

Yes it is an A2824/36 but these come in various configerations with such differences of pinion height etc so I'm trying to establish the correct one to get as I'd hate to spend $200 for a movement only to find that it's not a straight swap.

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nev848

Wow bad luck on such a nice watch. I'm waiting for mine to arrive soon so fingers crossed.

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dalboy

Why won't you send it back to China??

I'm assuming you have as yet not contacted the dealer .

 

 

Dal.

 

No I haven't contacted the dealer, I made the call to open it up as I thought it was a minor issue so I don't feel that I can now expect the dealer to replace/repair the watch.

 

 

 

Contact with the dealer should have been your first port of call. he may have split the repair cost with you , or sent a replacement movement , sadly that ship has sailed .

 

Looks like your into a new movement at your cost .

 

Out of interest what did you find when you opened it up.. pics may help.

 

 

Dal.

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mrtsumoto80

ETA 2824 me thinks

 

Yes it is an A2824/36 but these come in various configerations with such differences of pinion height etc so I'm trying to establish the correct one to get as I'd hate to spend $200 for a movement only to find that it's not a straight swap.

 

 

Well at oto frei you could probably order the gen movement? I guess your watchsmith would give you the best answer lol

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ShovelnTC

Why won't you send it back to China??

I'm assuming you have as yet not contacted the dealer .

 

 

Dal.

 

No I haven't contacted the dealer, I made the call to open it up as I thought it was a minor issue so I don't feel that I can now expect the dealer to replace/repair the watch.

 

 

 

Contact with the dealer should have been your first port of call. he may have split the repair cost with you , or sent a replacement movement , sadly that ship has sailed .

 

Looks like your into a new movement at your cost .

 

Out of interest what did you find when you opened it up.. pics may help.

 

 

Dal.

 

Mate I can't get a decent pic but what I found was the second hand was "bowed" upward but most noticeable at the tip so I thought that maybe the tip was rubbing on the crystal and the drag was enough to stop the mechanism.

 

I didn't look too closely at the movement once I saw the bent hand as I presumed that was the problem but I'll have a closer look this time.

 

I gently pressed it down whilst supporting the hand from underneath around the center of the hand.

 

I've just had another look and it is still bent so I may as well try to straighten it out a bit more before I give up on this movement.

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J!m

Swapping the entire movement is pretty straight forward. I need to see what you havre now before I can suggest the correct replacement...

 

I would not worry too much about pinion and hour wheel height just yet- let's figure out where you are at and then take it from there.

 

Another option (if you need the high cannon) is a TC clone movement. Decent quality. In your position I would have already figured out what Eta movement I need and had it inbound...

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rusty peters

The Sellita SW200 is a great choice too and available from ofrei. Unfortunately, expensive too. You could just have it serviced too.

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J!m

Does the Sellita and Eta share the dial foot positions? I have no experience with Sellita (yet)... All the Eta 28xx series have the same feet positions, so finding a dial that works with a movement is a bit easier (unless the date is used, and then there can be differences).

 

Anyway, let me see what you have and we can go from there.

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ShovelnTC

Swapping the entire movement is pretty straight forward. I need to see what you havre now before I can suggest the correct replacement...

 

I would not worry too much about pinion and hour wheel height just yet- let's figure out where you are at and then take it from there.

 

Another option (if you need the high cannon) is a TC clone movement. Decent quality. In your position I would have already figured out what Eta movement I need and had it inbound...

 

Thanks for your response,

 

The TC is what I was going to use once I've established if it is suitable.

 

The movement currently fitted has no markings as the entire movement has swirls so no numbers.

 

I only have a phone camera so hard to get decent pics,

 

Please let me know what else I need to look for.

 

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b17c8d98-de7e-4da6-b584-14365779faf6_zps1bbc2d19.jpg

 

1d51a714-d9a8-41da-a132-0c4fccbdf390_zpsac82afec.jpg

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ShovelnTC

The Sellita SW200 is a great choice too and available from ofrei. Unfortunately, expensive too. You could just have it serviced too.

 

Yes I also like the idea of a sellita but my main concern is if the stem/dial/holder will fit as I didn't want to have to get into trimming stem length etc.

 

I have no idea if I have any Rep friendly watch-smiths local besides I like to keep my hobbies within my own abilities which is why I was just going to replace the movement, probably more expensive but it keeps it within my own realm.

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J!m

Looks like the eta 2824 clone- either a gen or the TC will work in there.

 

A close up side shot of the hand stack will tell if you need the tall canon pinion or not; however generally no-date subs do not need the taller hand stack, only the date models.

 

Are the indicies applied on this dial? If so, that could also be cause for a taller hand stack...

 

If you get a 2824, the stem should pop back in and it all mounts up the same. You could even re-use the noisy 'Tudor' rotor if you wanted to!

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Libertatia

You are so best off calling around watch smiths and asking if they work on reps. Seriously, most do not care, as for working with in your realm, you aren't doing yourself any favors. A smith will give you a free quote/diagnosis, and you can decide if you go through with it or not.

 

In fact, the first time I took my watch to a local smithy, he appeared very impressed, was telling me how people buy rolex's just for the looks/case, and asked how much I paid.

Edited by Libertatia

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JSJ

Lovely watch. Sorry to hear of your troubles.

 

Does the movement run when it's out of the case?

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ShovelnTC

Thanks Guys,

 

Everyone has good points and thanks for the advise.

 

I'm still weighing up my options as one side of me says hand it over to an expert and just pay to have it sorted, another side says sell it on as is and let someone else sort it and yet another side tells me to persevere and fix it myself.

 

My dilemma comes from the fact that I am a self taught mechanic and have built prize winning showcars and motorcycles so it is hard for me to admit defeat with anything mechanical and rubs me the wrong way to have to get others involved in what I feel is my duty to overcome.

 

I guess it's the gamblers remorse, I chose to have a go at it and if I had fixed it I would be patting myself on the back for a job well done but as I haven't fixed it I am beating myself up for being so dumb to open up a new watch before contacting the dealer.

 

Anyway my disappointment is dissipating now and a more positive attitude is returning so now the problem doesn't seem so big.

 

I've got a few options that I'm considering including a TC movement as well as a local watch-smith but now I know that a new 2824 will drop in I think I will likely go down that path as from what I have found out so far most watchsmiths charge over a $100 for a ETA 2824 service and more if parts are required.

 

Cheers, Mark.

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ShovelnTC

Lovely watch. Sorry to hear of your troubles.

 

Does the movement run when it's out of the case?

 

Yes it ran when out of the case but when I had it out I hadn't put the stem back in and it was still running (sometimes) but when I tilted it to certain angles it would stop.

 

I thought it strange that it ran without the stem in as I thought that when the stem was removed it was in the hack mode and should be stopped.

 

I also didn't leave it running for very long as I only removed it , made the slight bend-down of the second hand tip (when it was stopped) and then buttoned it all back up.

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JSJ

If you take the movement out again and put the stem in, you can let it run and eliminate whether it's the hands binding.

 

Seems you have little to lose by doing that now.

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ShovelnTC

Yep I'll give it a go!

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JSJ

Great! Let us know what you find.

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ShovelnTC

OK, I have removed the movement and it is running fine at this stage but it appears that either the movement isn't fitted correctly to the movement ring or spacer or whatever it is called or the dial isn't fitted correctly to the movement as the dial is sitting slighty above the spacer at the 6 O'clock end.

 

Using my caliper it looks like there is not enough room for the hand stack at the tip ends at that end and only just enough at the 12 O'clock end.

 

I can't see how the movement is secured to the spacer so haven't been able to correct anything yet.

 

I'll have to investigate more shortly but have been summoned by the wife as food is on the table!.

 

red arrow shows high point.

 

7330crop_zpsd63bb8dd.png

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