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cigator

Accuracy of Rep Timekeeping

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cigator

I now have 2 Rolex reps. A BK DSSD, and the Day date II I so fortunately won in the VIP drawing (thanks). The DSSD has the ETA movement. The DD2 has an asian 21j movement. I can notice a little more choppiness in the second hand on the 21j, however, clocking them against a quartz they are both in the -10 sec range per day. I dont know if the -10 sec is acceptable for the ETA, but I am fairly impressed with -10 sec for the asian. Other than branding of ETA, is there any great benefit to paying more for ETA. I am looking to add to my collection and wanted opinion on the value of ETA for the additional cost.

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Brightlight
I now have 2 Rolex reps. A BK DSSD, and the Day date II I so fortunately won in the VIP drawing (thanks). The DSSD has the ETA movement. The DD2 has an asian 21j movement. I can notice a little more choppiness in the second hand on the 21j, however, clocking them against a quartz they are both in the -10 sec range per day. I dont know if the -10 sec is acceptable for the ETA, but I am fairly impressed with -10 sec for the asian. Other than branding of ETA, is there any great benefit to paying more for ETA. I am looking to add to my collection and wanted opinion on the value of ETA for the additional cost.

 

-10 seconds a day is very good when you are wearing the watch (as opposed to having it sat just running down). Mechanical watches tend to run at slightly different speeds depending on the position they are in, dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down, etc, so the overall daily rate is a bit of a compromise. The value of buying the ETA is you are getting a stronger movement, and apart from some QC issues with the clone ETA movement, they are fairly bulletproof and parts are available. When the 21J gives trouble, you replace it, very cheap to do. Quite apart from the economics of repair versus replace movement you can't get parts for the 21Js. You'll find different opinions, I tend to see the worst of it as I get both in for repair in volume, which probably gives me a biased view, but for a daily beater I would always go for the ETA. If you're wearing a watch very occasionally a 21J is fine.

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greg_r

Timekeeping is one thing, longevity is another.

 

My concern with buying so-called gen ETAs is that from many dealers you're either going to get a used movement in poor condition or the Asian clone (most dealers do not open the watch to check and may not know the difference if they did). Ultimately, most rely on the factory description - and that isn't necessarily accurate. Robert (PrestigeWatchCo) can be relied upon to supply the correct Swiss ETA movement in good condition, but he's one of the very few that can.

 

So, as a rule and on the basis that I'm most likely to get the Asian 'clone ETA' movement anyhow whatever the dealer thinks he's selling me, that's what I tend to buy in preference to the 'Swiss ETA' models. Parts are interchangeable with the gen ETA movement and they're relatively easy to get serviced.

 

21js are another matter. They're cheap and cheerful. If you get a good one, they can be accurate and reliable, but the choppiness of the second hand and - more important to me - the feel of the movement when winding or adjusting the watch tends to make the watch's rep origins more obvious. For some watches that doesn't bother me that much, but for those models I particularly like, I feel it's worth spending the extra. I love my 21J DSSD and am not tempted to upgrade - on the other hand, I'd be a lot less happy with my Breitling SOH if it didn't have a 'Clone ETA' high-beat movement in it...

 

As your collection grows, you'll probably get a feel for what you prefer, but most of us end up with a mixture :D

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cigator
Timekeeping is one thing, longevity is another.

 

My concern with buying so-called gen ETAs is that from many dealers you're either going to get a used movement in poor condition or the Asian clone (most dealers do not open the watch to check and may not know the difference if they did). Ultimately, most rely on the factory description - and that isn't necessarily accurate. Robert (PrestigeWatchCo) can be relied upon to supply the correct Swiss ETA movement in good condition, but he's one of the very few that can.

 

So, as a rule and on the basis that I'm most likely to get the Asian 'clone ETA' movement anyhow whatever the dealer thinks he's selling me, that's what I tend to buy in preference to the 'Swiss ETA' models. Parts are interchangeable with the gen ETA movement and they're relatively easy to get serviced.

 

21js are another matter. They're cheap and cheerful. If you get a good one, they can be accurate and reliable, but the choppiness of the second hand and - more important to me - the feel of the movement when winding or adjusting the watch tends to make the watch's rep origins more obvious. For some watches that doesn't bother me that much, but for those models I particularly like, I feel it's worth spending the extra. I love my 21J DSSD and am not tempted to upgrade - on the other hand, I'd be a lot less happy with my Breitling SOH if it didn't have a 'Clone ETA' high-beat movement in it...

 

As your collection grows, you'll probably get a feel for what you prefer, but most of us end up with a mixture :D

Thanks for the input. I went with the BK DSSD based on the forums confidence that BK insures you get a new ETA, I assume that is accurate as the wind is smoth and the rotor is basically silent. The 21j rotor does make a very odd sound, and I noticed that the day date seems to move incrementally whereas the ETA date snaps to new date. While perusing the dealers offerings I see ETA upgrades for $50. That seems low for an upgrade to a new eta movement, so that makes me a little suspicious. Can you cofirm a real ETA movement if the watch has a crystal back?

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greg_r

Yup - BK is one of the others that can be trusted to supply a gen ETA if that's what he says he's going to supply. It's quite tough to tell the difference unless you're a watchsmith.

 

Personally I'd be confident of PrestigeWatchCo, BK and WatchInternational to supply the real thing. Probably ReplicaMake too. Less confident with other dealers - not because they're less good dealers, just that they're more reliant on the descriptions supplied by the factories.

 

Don't be shy of the asian clone, though - it's a darned good movement.

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