Yet an other strap making tutorial

[X-treme 0]

Strap making 101

 

First and foremost this guide is well just that ………..a guide, you will have to develop your own technique and with time you will be able to vary the kind of straps you make, keep in mind i'm not a strap maker and this is just a guide Donerix and Blueradish are lets support them.

 

In this guide you will notice 2 different types of leather used pay no attention to this it just happened I was taking pictures throughout 2 different builds and I took the best of the 2 to illustrate.

 

End result

 

First and foremost the tooling, I cant stress the fact enough that having the right tool for the right job is a must.

 

I bought all my tools except the ones I made at Tandy Leather.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/

 

The Skiver;

This tool is used to thin out the leather when you have overlap 2 pieces.

 

Adjustable Groover;

This tool is used to make a groove so that when you thread the strap together the thread sits in the strap as opposed to sitting on top.

 

 

Overstitch Wheel;

This tool is used to mark the location of every stitch. You have different stitch/inch wheels.

 

Stitching Awl;

This tool is used to pre-pierce the strap to make it easier to thread the needles through.

 

Over size needles;

2 of these are needed to stitch a strap. (don’t pay attention to the thread length it was just so you can see the needle/thread threading technique.

 

Strap end punch;

This tool is used to cut the end of the strap so you get a consistent and perfect end.

 

First cut the leather longer and wider then needed, as you will cut it to size once you have glued the parts together using contact cement, I always use a strait edge to cut, it makes for strait cuts.

 

Shown here is the bottom of the outer strap glued, notice I don’t put any glue at the fold.

 

 

Shown here is the added piece of leather before I folded the outer strap over it, I haven’t applied the glue yet, this is just to add thickness to the strap if your leather is thick enough you don't have to do this.

 

Apply pressure to the just glued untrimmed strap for 30 minutes, some people don't even do this because using contact cement bonds the 2 surfaces instantly.

 

Next trim the strap to the correct width and cut the un-looped end using the strap end punch.

 

Next step is to use the adjustable groover to make the thread grooves take your time using this tool this will make or break a nice perfect looking strap.

 

Once the grooves are done the over stitch wheel is used to mark the stitch locations.

 

You need to hold the strap between 2 flat pieces so you can work it I made a special strap clamp to hold my straps but you can use 2 pieces of wood in a vice some people don't even use this but I prefer it.

 

Now use the awl to pre-pierce the strap at every location the overstitch wheel left a mark for stitching.

 

At this point make the other strap end, I got distracted at this point and forgot to take pictures of this process but this is the end result.

If you look closely at the middle of the strap you will see the seem where the 2 ends of that outer strap meet notice the ends are overlapped and not butt ended this is what the skiving tool is used for the next picture shows the technique on the loops.

 

 

Skived loops, overlapped ends on the loops same thing goes for the strap.

Skive the top end of the loop then on the other side the bottom so that when you fold the ends they look like the next picture.

 

The strap loops;

Remember to leave a part of the strap unglued close to the buckle so that you can insert the strap loop or else you just wont be able to incorporate 1 one the loops in the strap fold the next picture should give you an idea of what I mean.

 

One loop is incorporated into the strap the other is not, plan this in your design before hand, also notice that the incorporated loop is stitched at the same time the strap itself is stitched.

I skive my loops, glue them then I flip them so the seem is not showing, then I stitch the loop into the strap at the same time as I stitch the strap.

 

Stitching;

There’s only one way to do this and this is BY HAND, no machine, unless you’re a pro or have a CNC machine you will not get a strait stitch and your strap will not look good, I use waxed Flax yarn (fil de Lin) as this is the best yarn for watch straps and will last for years, remember most people only have one watch and they wear it every day so the materials used must be up to the wear and tear of everyday use.

 

The technique used for stitching is simple the next pictures tell the story.

 

Remember this?

Keep in mind that the thread length is wrong in this picture it was just to show you how to thread the needles, thread length is about 12 times the length of the piece being sown

 

Start at this end and make 1 or 2 loops your needles should end up one on either side of the strap with the same amount of thread on each side.

 

Then continue like this until you reach the end and make 1 or 2 other loops to finish off the stitch, notice the other needle on the bench.

Inserting the other needle.

Once both needles are past into the strap just pull the 2 sides of the threads together to tighten the stitch (make sure you don't go through the thread with the second needle as you go through the strap the 2 threads should be side be side in the strap hole)

Finish with an other wrap around the outer side of the strap then cut the thread, some people burn the thread at the end so it doesn't come out I use Cyanoacrylate glue (craze glue) to lock the thread.

 

Now you end up with something looking like this.

 

Nice and strait

Other variations minimal stitch

It will last a lifetime …………..or 2

 

Hope this helps

Marc Bienvenu, Montreal, Canada

[debian 0]

excellent tutorial and nice work!

[speedzmaster 0]

Now we know why the good straps are expensive.

Excellent work!

[KeNnY 29]

you are talented and perfect tutorial and the last watch is really nice ! thank you very much, now I going to buy me some tools

[mondeov6 0]

Very good tutorial and the straps look great! Now I want to try to make a strap of my own!

Thank's for sharing!

[greg_r 81]

Wow - fantastic tute. Gotta be a sticky...

[KBH 7]

Damn, if I keep reading these great Tutes, I'm going to be out buying leather and tools.

[KeNnY 29]

Damn, if I keep reading these great Tutes, I'm going to be out buying leather and tools.

 

that even rhymes ! me also, imagine, you can make and strap from every usable object in you house !

[Luthier 1]

I did. Have a ton of leather and all tools.

Have no time to start.

[KBH 7]

I did. Have a ton of leather and all tools.

Have no time to start.

 

We've been wondering about when the Luthier line of straps was coming out.

[KeNnY 29]

Luthier I hope that they will not be around 100USD price range !

[Akira 0]

I did. Have a ton of leather and all tools.

Have no time to start.

 

We've been wondering about when the Luthier line of straps was coming out.

 

 

Most likely he purchased hundreds of straps yesterday on the market.

[Star 0]

Thanks for taking the time to illustrate your project-Great work!

 

Timm

[KeNnY 29]

I must have look in here again, because I thought I would start to make my own straps.. when I count the price of the tools, it is around 100 USD. Now to check the prices of the leather... but again I must thank you for this tutorial !

[wizawuza 0]

Speaking of buying leather.. anyone have any suggestions other than tandy? And pardon my ignorance, but any idea on what weights correspond to what thicknesses? In other words, a 4 oz. leather probably means what in mm thickness? Or do those things not correlate?

 

Thanks for both the answers to these Q's and for the tutorial!

[tissotman 0]

these look great real good jobs done there

[rory4881 0]

So Luthier, How did you get on with the strap making in the end?

[BlackBandit 0]

Awesome tutorial, definitely going to come in handy!