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THE DC REVIEW: Patek Philippe 5396 Annual Calendar

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The History

 

Patented by none other than Patek Philippe themselves in 1996 and first appearing in the reference 5035 in 1997, the annual calendar complication displays the day, date and month, allowing for months with 30 and 31 days, meaning it only needs adjusting once a year on the 1st March.

 

DDE3F253-4FCB-4A65-8EC9-AF48845EDDFA_zpsd8br5bmn.jpg

Patek Philipe ref 5053 circa 1997

 

Calendar watches were nothing new at the time, indeed the more complex perpetual calendar watch had been about since 1929 (Breguet were responsible for that one). However, simplifying the calendar mechanism meant it was more affordable, and so one could purchase an annual calendar Patek for roughly half the price of a perpetual calendar Patek. This made it an instant success!

 

For the sake of education, a perpetual calendar (as opposed to the annual calendar we're looking at here) allows for months with 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as taking into account leap years by adding an additional day in February every fourth year. Thus a perpetual calendar watch won't need adjusting until the year 2100, and will only need adjusting then because 2100 won't be a leap year despite being divisible by 4 (it's true, look it up)!

 

The Gen

 

All this brings us nicely to the watch in question. The 5396 annual calendar launched in 2006 at Baselworld. Now available in either white or rose gold and with standard or sector dial options, it was an instant hit and eventual icon. A more contemporary iteration of the annual calendar complication, for the first time the day, date and month were displayed in three apertures on the watch face (as opposed to previous models with subdials for day and month) making for a far less cluttered appearance. In addition, the watch featured a 24hr indicator and moonphase at 6 o'clock, giving it a modern yet classic look.

 

905C4CCE-ADE1-4118-88D4-7161DEB0575B_zpsj3gljvnh.jpg

 

The case and proportions (other than thickness) are lifted almost directly from the 5196 Calatrava, so this watch has it's routes in that first Calatrava ref 96. And as if by magic here's a side by side to illustrate my point...

 

6F84A97C-3976-4917-98F0-50CAEA0451A8_zpsvjxveiqb.jpg

Patek Philippe ref 96 and ref 5396

 

The charm of this watch for me is it's simplicity, there are no frills, despite it's complications it presents as a very simple, clean looking watch. There are no crown guards, no fluted bezel and no beveled lugs, which give it a very minimalist appearance.

 

E79193D5-0014-41AF-BC82-77F7BA3E5A84_zps72apakhx.jpg

 

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The dial offers everything you'd want from a modern Calatrava, silvery white finish, applied gold markers with a double marker at 12 o'clock, and my favourite of all hand styles the dauphine hands. Everything save the complications is pure Calatrava here! The complications themselves integrate neatly within the centre line of the dial so it feels balanced, and as all are aperture indications other than the 24hr subdial it is easy to read at a glance.

 

So that's the gen, now it's time to see how our friends in China have got on bringing this icon into fruition at a fraction of the price (1/236th of the price give or take)

 

The Rep

 

I purchased this from the ever reliable Tim at WatchFinder, and although it took a while to source (I had them hunt for it, they weren't offering it at the time and are only offering it now because I got them to find it), once I'd approved QC it was at my door within the week which I think is pretty good going. There's much to be said about the service Tim and Dan provide, but I think I'll write a separate thread about that, I have a system for finding reps with them which has proven very fruitful so I plan to share it at some point.

 

I'll start by saying this is no super rep, at $169 and with a 21j 2813 movement you have to manage your expectations, especially where complicated Pateks are concerned. I've bought several complicated Patek reps recently and one thing I've come to learn is you can't judge them on being 1:1 to gen, because that's simply not realistic,and if that's what you want then stay away for complicated Patek reps and buy a Nautilus or an Aquanaut. You have to judge them on how well they have captured the spirit of the watch, the overall look and feel, the personality I guess. So, how have they done with the 5396g?

 

60C39B15-29C0-49BC-BDF8-3BC7C3F9595A_zps5msgkqyq.jpg

 

E8C5E1A5-7922-47D4-B28A-AA6F66D0234B_zpsmmua7t6v.jpg

 

Well the answer is, in my opinion, they've done very well. Let's address the obvious flaws, the moonphase isn't a moonphase, it's a day/night indicator, that's a given. What else? The day and month apertures are too high up the dial and the date aperture is non existent because there's no rep movement that supports having them in the correct positions, and also they are not day and month but year and month indicators, nor are they automatic because again, this is a 21j rep for $169 not a $40,000 annual calendar. What else? Being super critical the dial colour is a little more silver than the gen and has a sunburst pattern to it where the gen is just plain. What else? Well that's it really!! And do any of those things spoil the overall character of the watch?! It's unmistakably a 5396, and all those Calatrava traits are there...

 

A65B5CFC-6E84-409A-BB52-DC17A5495A49_zps5ebzoh3s.jpg

 

The simple wedge shaped bezel, the sweeping integrated lugs, the dauphine hands, the applied indices, and hallelujah the case size! It's spot on 38mm making it identical to the gen, but even more impressive is the case thickness, which is also bang on gen at 11mm...

 

4B535C64-7356-45C2-8503-6AA978DDEA02_zpsv6vh1nnk.jpg

 

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It wears a lot thinner thanks to the fact that a large portion of the thickness is in the case back, so visually you are tricked into thinking the brushed flank is the full extent of its thickness, a clever trick that Patek use often and which is perfectly replicated here.

 

As ever the strap is a disappointing throw away, but I've yet to find a rep strap that isn't so that's no surprise, besides I prefer to put gen alligator straps on anyway so it's no big deal. The strap pictured is a genuine fullcut alligator strap which suits the watch perfectly.

 

90ED862A-858F-4163-ADF2-F638061AF757_zps0n9nmbml.jpg

 

The movement is probably the only real disappointment of the watch, and again at this price that is perhaps not surprising, but when you're used to pretty 2824 movements with nice gold rotors this 2813 movement is a bit of an eye-saw. It's also a little clicky, if that makes sense. It doesn't spin freely like a Miyota so it's not noisy per say, but when manually winding or automatically winding it makes a noise akin to a clacker you would take to a football match, albeit not as loud and a lot more metallic. It's hard to describe but it's neither the pleasant "whizz" of a 2824 nor the reassuring click of a Seagul ST19, it just sounds cheap!

 

That aside, there really is a lot to like about this rep, for all it's flaws it captures the look and character of the 5396 on the wrist, it looks classy and the complications, whilst inaccurate, are at least well executed (with the exception of the date which is missing). The detail and finish is also good, the only issue is a misaligned 12 o'clock index, the rest are beautifully finished and well applied, and the dial print is sharp and solid with no raggedy edges.

 

13C748A7-9307-4367-9DEE-0795048B94D5_zpsicd2myho.jpg

 

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D0792942-EA5E-44AE-ADE5-5450ABEF3929_zpsz4ipie0y.jpg

 

In summary, were it to have a better movement there'd be very little to complain about here. You're never going to get a more accurate annual calendar because there just isn't the movement out there to support a gen dial layout, and for $169 you really won't find any more bang for your buck. It's a winner for me, and that's not a given, I've sold several Patek reps that didn't make the grade, but this one is trying so damn hard you have to love it!!

 

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I hope you've enjoyed this review and found it interesting/useful. Comments and feedback appreciated!

 

DC

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Martijn0007

Very nice DC! Great review and awesome watch :D

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Mr. Genesis

Thanks for the review DC, it's a beautiful watch :)

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_DC_

Thanks fellas, she's a nice addition to the collection!!!

 

DC

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Pseudonym

Lovely watch & excellent write up mate. Congrats!

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myaz

Thanks for taking the time to photograph and write the copy. This is the type of review that I find very useful as well as fun to read. Great work.

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Godfathar

bravo.. and enjoy in good health

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Mr. Genesis

It seems like there is a rose gold version of that watch!! :D

 

And here is a video of the stainless one:

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