Replacing an overlayed date wheel

[jerkstore 14]

OK. You got into the movement and did what you had to do. Because you removed your ETA date wheel without disturbing its overlay, it's going to be hard to put it back.

 

Why? The overlay covers the double jumper spring. You can't see the spring when the overlay is on, and you need to move that spring out of the way to seat the datewheel (DW). The traditional way of getting the DW back on is to either (1) remove the overlay, fit the DW, and then realign the overlay, or (2) [partially] unscrew the double jumper maintaining plate and/or the minute train bridge. But (1) is time consuming and (2) might end up in a calendar problem if you're unlucky.

 

Instead, it is possible to get the DW back on by reversing the steps in the "removing" tutorial, but it's a little uncomfortable because you don't have the benefit of being able to see what you're doing. The obvious advantage to this method is avoiding the pitfalls associated with (1) and (2).

 

Here's how you do it... (Please forgive the fact the two-hands-constraint means I have to substitute words for the missing photos).

 

 

Pull the crown into quick-set position.

 

***What you need***

A fine tipped object like an oiler, a movement, a date wheel, an overlay, and something to hold the DW/DWO--like plastic tweezers

 

 

The date wheel, plus one ratty old overlay

 

 

Double jumper spring, depressed (It's a good idea to turn the oiler vertical here)

 

 

With the plastic tweezers, set the overlayed DW down on the movement, offset a bit to the crown-side.

 

 

Slide the DW over so its teeth are under the raised edge of the minute train bridge. Notice that the overlay hides the double jumper spring from view. Here, the DW is resting at an angle, tilted up at 9 o'clock, as its teeth on that side do not fit through the grooves in the double jumper maintaining plate.

 

 

Now, gently nudge the DW with your plastic tweezers on the crown-side. Turn it clockwise very slowly with your tweezers. At the same time, depress the double jumper spring with your fine-tipped edge. When things line up right, the DW will just drop into place. You may have to check a few times that you're pushing in the right place with your oiler. And turning the DW by nudging it is a little unnatural at first.

 

When things seem like they're in the right spot, remove you oiler. Press down (gently) on the DW with your plastic tweezers near the double jumper plate. If nothing pops out, advance the date with the crown. You'll know right away if things worked

 

 

Eureka!

 

 

Total time: about 5 minutes. Plus, no messy DWO realignment to worry about. Warning: it may take several goes--my first attempt tonight failed, but I got it on the second try.

 

Good luck!

Edited May 20, 2013 by jerkstore

[jerkstore 14]

One more thing: you can probably get away with using covered fingers to handle and seat the date wheel. As you depress the double jumper spring, just twist the date wheel until the teeth line up and let it drop into place. I haven't done it this way, but its probably easier to maneuver the DW with you fingers than a pair of plastic tweezers.

[flyr 4]

Good one! I'm sure this will reduce the headache factor for anyone doing repeated Keyless fixes. Thanks!

[LightGeek 25]

One more thing: you can probably get away with using covered fingers to handle and seat the date wheel. As you depress the double jumper spring, just twist the date wheel until the teeth line up and let it drop into place. I haven't done it this way, but its probably easier to maneuver the DW with you fingers than a pair of plastic tweezers.

 

Covered fingers? Bah. Never I do have a pair of blue nitrile sitting in the toolbox.

[Odyseus 1]

The hard thing to do is get the new date wheel aligned to the date window on the dial. plus there is very little clearance between the date wheel and dial, if you stick the DWO over the old one, you might find the date wheel sticking?

[jerkstore 14]

The hard thing to do is get the new date wheel aligned to the date window on the dial. plus there is very little clearance between the date wheel and dial, if you stick the DWO over the old one, you might find the date wheel sticking?

 

The good thing about removing/reseating the date wheel as this tutorial describes is that you don't have to remove and realign the overlay at all. Just leave it in place. When you put the date wheel back using this method, everything will line up with the window as it did before you opened up the watch.

 

It will take you probably 10 minutes versus the hour(s) long process of perfecting your overlay alignment after you take it off.

[LightGeek 25]

The hard thing to do is get the new date wheel aligned to the date window on the dial. plus there is very little clearance between the date wheel and dial, if you stick the DWO over the old one, you might find the date wheel sticking?

 

The good thing about removing/reseating the date wheel as this tutorial describes is that you don't have to remove and realign the overlay at all. Just leave it in place. When you put the date wheel back using this method, everything will line up with the window as it did before you opened up the watch.

 

It will take you probably 10 minutes versus the hour(s) long process of perfecting your overlay alignment after you take it off.

 

Luckily, getting in back on is not no longer a problem for me "blind"

[Kleen™ 45]

Great info - just what I needed. Thx:-)

[SSTEEL 0]

It is a great, helpful thread this of Mikes, so too is his up and coming 3D printed DWO tool, which has its very own thread too.

[DeLaForce 2]

[myaz 3]

Indeed hard to take pics when both hands are busy, so many thanks for going through the trouble of illustrating this shortcut.

[jerkstore 14]

Glad I could help! This little trick has turned out to be a useful time saver.

[SSTEEL 0]

Sure has Mike, and with that 3D printed tool, things can get better